Joined: Nov 16, 2001
Posts: 2053
From: Mpls, MN

100% SQ (Quality, accurate sounding) 
100% SPL (Just damned loud & nasty) 
75%/25% most of 1 or the other. 

There is no such thing as a 50/50 system. NO! I don't want to hear it! GET IN YOUR ROOM! And don't come out until you agree with me! 

END RANT 

Now, most people that want a '50/50' system really mean that they want a 75%/25% (usually SQ/SPL in that order)--they just don't know it. When you have an accurate sounding system, you should be able to amplify it to concert levels without substantial distortion. First you must be willing to maximize your installation, and be willing to shell out the dough. Every time I give a demo, people can't believe how loud 700 watts really is. 

To get a 100% SQ system, you need your car to be sound deadened. You can use dynamat, Vblock, roofing material, bondo, silicon, wood filler, and expanda-foam--you pick. Next, you need proper placement of components & woofers. Please check out the FAQ entitled MOUNTING LOCATIONS. 

Next, you need wiring that allows adequate current transfer from your alternator to the car audio system. I recommend upgrading alternator to battery connection to 4 guage or larger, and same with battery to amps wiring. 

Finally, how much to spend? How much is enough? 

$300-350 on 2 way components 
$500-650 on 3 way components 
$250-300 on 12" subwoofers 
$1.50/watt to $2.5 a watt on amplifiers. 

It really isn't that vital the brand, only that the product be installed adequately, and properly adjusted. Brand A will sound similar to Brand B in the same installation. 

BUT MY CAR STEREO SHOP TOLD ME THAT BRAND A IS BETTER THAN ANYTHING ON THE MARKET?!?!?!? 

First off, don’t listen to car audio dealers in retail stores. They are just trying to get into your wallet! Once you’ve spent about the above amounts, you won’t get better sound, only have paid more. Be CAREFUL of display demo boards. Often, many stores will reverse the polarity of the tweeter or woofer of the brand they make less money on. Also, they’ll do other underhanded things to sell you the most profitable product. That’s why they’ll show you the 6.5” components from one line, and the 5.25” of another. If you can’t listen to the finished product in a car, don’t bother listening. Chances are, the response in a car is far from what it is in a flat sterile display board. SEE ABOVE PRICES 

To get a 100% SPL system, why bother with front speakers? No really WHY BOTHER?!!! 

SPL vehicles are designed to maximize speaker output at a particular frequency, meanwhile, harnessing the vehicle’s acoustics to get the maximum sound pressure level (SPL). Since DB DRAG and other sanctioning bodies filter out frequencies below 80Hz, front components are quite inconsequential. However…… 

If you are intending to have a 25%/75% (SQ/SPL) system, then it’s usually recommended to go with a vented subwoofer enclosure. The placement of components, rear fill, etc speakers is basically the same. The main difference between SQ & SPL systems is the woofer enclosure. 

Vented boxes are designed to provide a ‘boosted’ output with the same amplifier power. Vented enclosures (or ported) essentially make the woofer more efficient, and are about 1.5x the size of the recommended enclosure for the same woofer. The difference between sealed & vented enclosures is that sealed enclosures offer the best control of the woofer, and most balanced frequency response. Vented enclosures have a built in lump in frequency response above the port frequency. 

NOTE: If you tune your vented enclosure to a specific frequency (say 38Hz), all frequencies below the port freq. will be unloaded. Basically, there is little or no resistance to movement from the box, and, therefore, your speaker will move more freely than without a port. Also NOTE: the speaker will reach it’s mechanical limit with less power than in a sealed box—so it’s very easy to damage the woofer below the port frequency.