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On 10/24/2008 16:21:46 Editor wrote: A Do It Yourself Guide to Chain-Link by Walter Hargrave *** Disclaimer *** NOTE: This guide is an on going project and will contain many pages over many weeks. Last Edited Wednesday Jan, 14th 2008 on Page 3 - How much does a chain link fence cost?Guide Index- How to install a Chain Link Fence - Lower on this Page
- Handy Tables - New Window/Tab
- Parts List - New Window/Tab
- How to install tension wire - New Window/Tab
- Determining Gate Opening - New Window/Tab
- Backsighting vs String Line - New Window/Tab
- Line Pole Fence Post Spacing Chart - New Window/Tab
- How much does a chain link fence cost? - New Window/Tab
IntroductionBefore I start, let me tell you a little about my fence experience. I have worked at 3 different fence companies over 8 years and I was foreman in 2 of them. I was tought by Mike Ryan of Ryan Fence Contractors, and Mark Ronko both of Okeechobee, Florida and experts. I've built residential and commercial fences from North Florida to Miami. I believe in giving a job the once over and not the over & over! I think using better more expensive materials will pay off in the end, especially in Florida and up north with all the salts. Ok, so now let's get to it: Basic Setup Steps- Find Property Markers
- Draw a plan marking the corners and gates
- Measure each line between corner and gate poles and mark on the plan in linear footage
- Use plan to get Building Permit
- Call utilities, gas, phone, water, sprinklers, power, etc, before you dig!
- Buy materials, make sure you have all tools
- BBQ for the helpers :)
- Dig the corners and gate poles 8" wide by 30" deep
- Stick and temp set the corner and gate poles in the ground and level both ways to use as site poles
- Measure each line again and evenly space out poles 10 foot max, I prefer 9' Mark each hole near inline with spray paint
- Stick post hole diggers in line on the marks and go back behind a corner pole and site the bottom of the diggers inline. Dig the line post holes 6" wide by 30" deep. A helper can help you sight them in much faster or you can use string lines, but I personally don't use them.
Planning Stage- Call Before You Dig! Get all your underground phone, electric & water lines marked out with paint before you start to dig. If you don't, it could cost you big time, not to mention the possibility of injury.
Property Markers
- Find all property markers, hopefully you still have a property survey. A metal detector makes quick work of this step. If one is not available, You can sometimes take measurements off your house to help find the markers, if you know enough about your lot dimensions. Once you have the first pin, you can measure, using the house for a line, to find the other three. You can use a large truss or carpenters square on the ground and around the first pin to 'eye' 2 more lines. Some surveys will have measurements from the corner of the house to the corner of the line. Another option is the 3,4,5 Triangulation, i'll talk more about that later. Also be aware of any easements or rules that may apply in your area.
Tools Needed
- Property Survey
- 6"-8" Pocket Level
- 1/2", 5/8" Sockets with wrench
- Pipe/Tubing Cutter or Hack-saw
- 100',25-30' Tape Measures
- Black Permanent Marker
- Pointed Shovel
- Flat Shovel
- Post Hole Digger
- Come-Along Jack
- Fencing Pliers What is this?
- Wheelbarrow
- Pull Chain What is this?
- Five Gallon Bucket {Optional] but very handy, carry tools, water, concrete, seat, etc. ;p
Gates
- Determine where you want your gates and what sizes are needed. Many times you will lay them out in the center of small runs on the front facing side. Residential gate openings range from 3' to 12' Double Drive. Make sure your lawn mower or other wheeled tools can get through your gate opening(s). Also measure where the gates will rest in the open position to make sure nothing is in the way. It is important to make your gates openings one of the common sizes as custom gates cost much more money and almost always have to be made per order. The Common gate openings for residential are: 3', 3 1/2', 4', 5', 6' 10' Double Gate & 12' Double Gate. I personally like welded gates over the other types.
Corner,Terminal & Gate Poles
- Count the number of corners or stop start points you will have. Each one of these places will get a Corner or Terminal Pole. Each gate has 2, each corner is one. If you have a real a bad drop off to run fence down, it's best to put a terminal pole at the top just before the drop off. Residential corner poles are usually 2" or 2 1/2" in diameter and have a wall thickness of .065, I like .055 thickness, 2 1/2" terminals. Line poles are 1 5/8" .065 or .055. Fabric come in heights of 3 1/2' to 6',sometimes 7', with 4' being the most common. If you want durability, then Hot dipped galvanized fabric & hardware is the only way to go! Rail Ends & Caps are made of a strong aluminum. Ties are made of a softer, oily aluminum but last a life time.
- How many line poles do we need? We will use my image below as an example. The standard maximum distance between poles is 10'and 8 foot for wind bearing however, in residential, I wouldn't go over 9' as a general rule.
- Each 4' high corner pole needs this hardware. 2 brace Bands, 2 Rail Ends, 6 tension bands, 8 nuts & bolts, 2 tension bars and a post cap. Terminal poles need 1 brace band, 1 rail end, 3 tension bands, 1 tension bar and a post cap.
Tension bands are figured by 1 less then height of the pole. 6 foot high fence uses 5 tension bands.
Draw a Plan
- Draw a picture, top down view, of the entire job and write down the measurements between terminal poles. Also note the pole that the gate will 'hang' on by drawing a line at 45 degrees from that pole. Most of the time, gates hang on the pole farthest the house so as it's the shortest walk to open it from the house. :P
All this will help you figure out how much material is needed for the job at hand. It is a good idea to take a copy of this with you when you go buy the materials, also to get your building permit in many cases.
- If your are building your fence to keep dogs in or out, then you will want to set a tighter grade. If you are doing it to just keep people out then it's nice to leave the fabric an inch or so off the ground mainly so you can weed under it more easily without going through a ton of string. I personally don't like the ugliness of using Round-Up.
Ok, let's figure out how line poles we need and what spacing to use. So, let's start on the back line which is 80' and we want to figure how many even spaces under 9 feet we have. Ok, 9 goes into 80 almost 9 times with 81', i'll say we need to lose 1 foot in 9 spaces, 12/9 = 1.33 so we will call it 1 and a fat 1/4" each space or 8 foot 10 5/8 inches fat. So will use 8 line poles on the back line spaced at 8' 10 5/8" fat and 2 terminals. Use this same method all the way around. Each line pole requires a loop cap and between 3 and 5 aluminum tie wires.
More to come!
 
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