Here is my system:
MTX Electronic Crossover LSX1 (1)
------------------------------------------------------
2-way
Continuously variable low and high pass outputs between 30-400Hz high, 20-200Hz low
Up to 8 volt RMS input signal for integration with high voltage output source units
18dB/octave slope for greater protection of mid-ranges and tweeters
Continuously adjustable crossover points
Wire harnesses for speaker level input allow easier integration with OEM systems
1 Meg Ohm Isolation maintained between the Signal Ground and Power Supply Ground (eliminates ground loop noise)
External Bass Control (EBC) port connects to optional, dash-mountable EBC unit
MTX Thunder 280 Power Amplifier 2-Channel (1)
------------------------------------------------------
70 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms
140 watts RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms
280 watts RMS x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms
Stereo or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable in bridged mode
Tri-Way capable
Requires 8-gauge power and ground leads
PWM MOSFET switching power supply
Surface Mount Technology
Selectable 85 Hz high-pass/low-pass crossovers, 18 dB/octave
Full Range preamp outputs
Speaker-level inputs with SmartEngage
9-7/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-3/4"D
Rockford Fosgate Punch DVC 15" Subwoofers (2)
------------------------------------------------------
power range 150-500 watts RMS each
peak power 1000 watts
frequency response 21-400 Hz
sensitivity 90 dB
4-ohm impedance
top mount depth 7-1/2"
sealed box volume 1.5 cu. ft.
ported box volume 2.25 cu. ft.
for type 1 sealed, type 2 ported, and type 4 Q-Logic boxes
OK - so my question is: How many watts are each of my subs gunna get with this set-up and what would be the best way to wire my system to get the most out of my subs?
Thanks in advance!
Replies (11)
cplkittle on 12/13/2003 21:53:46
I like the crossover, good addition.
I don't think you are going to get enough juice for your subs with the MTX amp. If you wire your DVC subs in series to get 8ohms each, then run them parallel (4ohms) into your amp (bridged), your amp puts out 280w to both (140 each). That is below the lowest recommended RMS for the subs. You will get some sound from them, but not anywhere near their average performance level. I would recommend an amplifier in the neighborhood of 1200w/2ch or a 1000w mono amp. Wait for other input before you make a decision, though. There are others here that know more about this than I do.
movadoman2001 on 12/14/2003 01:47:55
What is a crossover?? and what does it do?
cplkittle on 12/14/2003 10:29:55
a crossover isolates certain frequencies that you want your speakers to pick up. for example an amplifier for subs will have a crossover that may cut out all frequencies above 90Hz. This allows your subs to only get the frequencies that it will be able to reproduce without wasting amp energy on high frequencies.
You can get crossovers for any speaker. There are crossovers that eliminate low freqs for tweets, and three way crossovers that you can adjust the high and low limits for tweets, mids, and subs.
soul_karver on 12/15/2003 22:23:34
Ok i just got my system hooked up but I don't really know what to set the settings at on my crossover and amplifer to get the most boom from my subs.
My crossover has a Low-Pass Filter knob that can be set from 20 to 200Hz and a High-Pass Filter knob that can be set from 30 to 400Hz. There is also a knob next to each filter that says Output Level. I'm pretty sure that the Low-Pass Outpul Level should be at the max and the High-Pass Output Level should be at the min, but what do i set the Filter knobs to?
The amplifer had a knob that says GAIN and a knob that says EQ. I'm pretty sure that the GAIN knob is supposed to be at the highest value but I'm not real sure what the EQ knob does? Also there is a button called X-OVER - it can be either pushed in or out. I don't know what it does though - maybe turn on/off the internal crossover? If so, then wouldn't I want it off because I have the amplifier hooked up to an external crossover?
Well, thanks if you can help!!
Relax_The_Mind on 12/16/2003 04:46:53
What kind of box do you have them in? or did i miss it?
You wont be satisfied with most any of it until you get a bigger amp. The amps specs are just under the the recommended RMS value of the subs. I would AT LEAST get an amp that puts out 300w x 2 to get any decent sound out of those subs especially if you have a ported box (but thats umm a little more than 4.5 cu ft).
If your getting a more space efficient sealed box I would at least get a 400w x 2 amp.
When using an external crossover it is suggested that you turn off the internal crossover of the amp and the head unit or set them to flat response.
I would help setting the crossover but you may not be able to get an accurate setting with the current setup you have now.
If you can get another amp we can make suggestions. Especially if your on a budget.
RTM
curtis73 on 12/16/2003 11:36:47
soul karver,
You might want to look at thezeb.com . Right now they have some killer deals on USAcoustics amps. Like 1-ohm stable Class D amps (mainly for subs) that are putting out 1250 x 1 into 1 ohm. Its a very versatile amp and depending on how its hooked up. They have the USX1000D for something like $389
Also check out the FAQ on this site. There are tutorials on how to set up your system. Less gain is typically better. Gain is like the "volume in". It tells the amp how much of the signal to ignore. The more gain you have, the more your fuel pump, ignition, and other electronic noise will show up in your music. I usually choose a CD, set the head unit to flat (0 bass 0 treble), and turn the gain all the way down on the subs. I adjust the volume to where my speakers give me my max volume without distortion, then go back and bring the gain up on the subs until the same thing happens. That way, your system will be maxed out at the same time. If you have too much bass you can always back off on the gain, turn down the bass on the head unit, or poke a hole in your sub (that's a joke.) If you don't have enough bass, you need more rocks and the party. Bigger amp or better subs. Distortion can be tough to hear from a sub, but keep playing with the gain like the focus on a camera and you'll get it.
soul_karver on 12/17/2003 18:11:20
Relax_The_Mind: I have them in a huge sealed box (it takes up my whole trunk).
This is my first system and I have to say I am pretty satisfied with it. To me, it sounds as good as my friend's system (and he's got a 1000w amp with 2 15" subs).
Anyway, I still don't know what to set my crossover settings to and I would really like someone else's opinion on the subject.
Thanks if you can help!
curtis73 on 12/17/2003 19:11:56
Your crossover settings are one part ear and one part math. You can't get big speakers to make high frequencies and vice versa with small speakers. Often times there are recommendations as to what frequencies to use. Once in the car and running you can adjust them to suit your ear, too. Don't try to make the subs play too high to bridge a gap that's missing. They get kinda boomy and empty if you ask them to reproduce mids
Use manufacturer recomendations to start and adjust from there.
curtis73 on 12/17/2003 19:22:36
Do a search for "crossover settings" I came up with a few that looked like they might answer your questions.
soul_karver on 12/17/2003 23:02:33
Okay I was reading on the internet about crossover settings and I have a question. If a low pass filter passes frequencies below its filter frequency and reduces the level of those frequencies above it, a high pass filter passes frequencies above its filter frequency and reduces the level of those frequencies below it, and my crossover is only hooked up to my subwoofers... then wouldn't the high pass filter do nothing to affect my system?
Swez on 12/18/2003 22:05:04
Yes, that is correct to a "point". The high pass filter (HPF) is designed for using in mids and highs speakers. The settings used, depend on the speakers' operational range. The "point" is when using HPF's for Subsonic filtering. These actually block ultra low (10-25 Hz) signals that never get to the amp or subs. Don't need one in sealed boxed per-se. But in ported enclosure applications and high power amps... yes, a good idea.
Now on sub crossovers... you have some latitude here, based on several factors. But for now, will spare you the gory details and suggest you try setting the LPF at 60 Hz, 80 & maybe try 100 Hz too. The one that sounds best in your ears, is the one to go with. If you go higher than 100 Hz, subs can get muddy and boomy in a larger sealed or ported box. The deep lows get outran by midbass and sound gets hollow and ill-defined.
Also, that amp will net modest bass from the paired subs... ~140 watts/sub. That a pleasant mix of bass to your existing mids and highs off the HU. Not rattling the neighbors windows... but about 130 dB of bass is not at all bad if the bass is tight but low as well. If you want more bass, the subs can take a larger amp for sure... just depends on how much you wish to invest.
A good Class D sub amp of say 600 watts into 1 or 2 ohms will net 300 RMS to each sub. That will give you about 6 dB more bass power and set you back between $200 - 400.00, depending on the brang and features.
Consider these:
1. Kicker KX-600. 2 ohm load only
2. JBL BP-600.1 (under $200.00, 1 or 2 ohm loads)
3. Audiobahn (many choices here)
4. US Acoustics (1000D or 800D are good choices)
Look for these off e-bay , thezeb.com and crutchfield.com
Any questions? Just ask...
Swez
MTX Electronic Crossover LSX1 (1)
------------------------------------------------------
2-way
Continuously variable low and high pass outputs between 30-400Hz high, 20-200Hz low
Up to 8 volt RMS input signal for integration with high voltage output source units
18dB/octave slope for greater protection of mid-ranges and tweeters
Continuously adjustable crossover points
Wire harnesses for speaker level input allow easier integration with OEM systems
1 Meg Ohm Isolation maintained between the Signal Ground and Power Supply Ground (eliminates ground loop noise)
External Bass Control (EBC) port connects to optional, dash-mountable EBC unit
MTX Thunder 280 Power Amplifier 2-Channel (1)
------------------------------------------------------
70 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms
140 watts RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms
280 watts RMS x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms
Stereo or bridged mono output
4-ohm stable in bridged mode
Tri-Way capable
Requires 8-gauge power and ground leads
PWM MOSFET switching power supply
Surface Mount Technology
Selectable 85 Hz high-pass/low-pass crossovers, 18 dB/octave
Full Range preamp outputs
Speaker-level inputs with SmartEngage
9-7/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-3/4"D
Rockford Fosgate Punch DVC 15" Subwoofers (2)
------------------------------------------------------
power range 150-500 watts RMS each
peak power 1000 watts
frequency response 21-400 Hz
sensitivity 90 dB
4-ohm impedance
top mount depth 7-1/2"
sealed box volume 1.5 cu. ft.
ported box volume 2.25 cu. ft.
for type 1 sealed, type 2 ported, and type 4 Q-Logic boxes
OK - so my question is: How many watts are each of my subs gunna get with this set-up and what would be the best way to wire my system to get the most out of my subs?
Thanks in advance!
Replies (11)
cplkittle on 12/13/2003 21:53:46
I like the crossover, good addition.
I don't think you are going to get enough juice for your subs with the MTX amp. If you wire your DVC subs in series to get 8ohms each, then run them parallel (4ohms) into your amp (bridged), your amp puts out 280w to both (140 each). That is below the lowest recommended RMS for the subs. You will get some sound from them, but not anywhere near their average performance level. I would recommend an amplifier in the neighborhood of 1200w/2ch or a 1000w mono amp. Wait for other input before you make a decision, though. There are others here that know more about this than I do.
movadoman2001 on 12/14/2003 01:47:55
What is a crossover?? and what does it do?
cplkittle on 12/14/2003 10:29:55
a crossover isolates certain frequencies that you want your speakers to pick up. for example an amplifier for subs will have a crossover that may cut out all frequencies above 90Hz. This allows your subs to only get the frequencies that it will be able to reproduce without wasting amp energy on high frequencies.
You can get crossovers for any speaker. There are crossovers that eliminate low freqs for tweets, and three way crossovers that you can adjust the high and low limits for tweets, mids, and subs.
soul_karver on 12/15/2003 22:23:34
Ok i just got my system hooked up but I don't really know what to set the settings at on my crossover and amplifer to get the most boom from my subs.
My crossover has a Low-Pass Filter knob that can be set from 20 to 200Hz and a High-Pass Filter knob that can be set from 30 to 400Hz. There is also a knob next to each filter that says Output Level. I'm pretty sure that the Low-Pass Outpul Level should be at the max and the High-Pass Output Level should be at the min, but what do i set the Filter knobs to?
The amplifer had a knob that says GAIN and a knob that says EQ. I'm pretty sure that the GAIN knob is supposed to be at the highest value but I'm not real sure what the EQ knob does? Also there is a button called X-OVER - it can be either pushed in or out. I don't know what it does though - maybe turn on/off the internal crossover? If so, then wouldn't I want it off because I have the amplifier hooked up to an external crossover?
Well, thanks if you can help!!
Relax_The_Mind on 12/16/2003 04:46:53
What kind of box do you have them in? or did i miss it?
You wont be satisfied with most any of it until you get a bigger amp. The amps specs are just under the the recommended RMS value of the subs. I would AT LEAST get an amp that puts out 300w x 2 to get any decent sound out of those subs especially if you have a ported box (but thats umm a little more than 4.5 cu ft).
If your getting a more space efficient sealed box I would at least get a 400w x 2 amp.
When using an external crossover it is suggested that you turn off the internal crossover of the amp and the head unit or set them to flat response.
I would help setting the crossover but you may not be able to get an accurate setting with the current setup you have now.
If you can get another amp we can make suggestions. Especially if your on a budget.
RTM
curtis73 on 12/16/2003 11:36:47
soul karver,
You might want to look at thezeb.com . Right now they have some killer deals on USAcoustics amps. Like 1-ohm stable Class D amps (mainly for subs) that are putting out 1250 x 1 into 1 ohm. Its a very versatile amp and depending on how its hooked up. They have the USX1000D for something like $389
Also check out the FAQ on this site. There are tutorials on how to set up your system. Less gain is typically better. Gain is like the "volume in". It tells the amp how much of the signal to ignore. The more gain you have, the more your fuel pump, ignition, and other electronic noise will show up in your music. I usually choose a CD, set the head unit to flat (0 bass 0 treble), and turn the gain all the way down on the subs. I adjust the volume to where my speakers give me my max volume without distortion, then go back and bring the gain up on the subs until the same thing happens. That way, your system will be maxed out at the same time. If you have too much bass you can always back off on the gain, turn down the bass on the head unit, or poke a hole in your sub (that's a joke.) If you don't have enough bass, you need more rocks and the party. Bigger amp or better subs. Distortion can be tough to hear from a sub, but keep playing with the gain like the focus on a camera and you'll get it.
soul_karver on 12/17/2003 18:11:20
Relax_The_Mind: I have them in a huge sealed box (it takes up my whole trunk).
This is my first system and I have to say I am pretty satisfied with it. To me, it sounds as good as my friend's system (and he's got a 1000w amp with 2 15" subs).
Anyway, I still don't know what to set my crossover settings to and I would really like someone else's opinion on the subject.
Thanks if you can help!
curtis73 on 12/17/2003 19:11:56
Your crossover settings are one part ear and one part math. You can't get big speakers to make high frequencies and vice versa with small speakers. Often times there are recommendations as to what frequencies to use. Once in the car and running you can adjust them to suit your ear, too. Don't try to make the subs play too high to bridge a gap that's missing. They get kinda boomy and empty if you ask them to reproduce mids
Use manufacturer recomendations to start and adjust from there.
curtis73 on 12/17/2003 19:22:36
Do a search for "crossover settings" I came up with a few that looked like they might answer your questions.
soul_karver on 12/17/2003 23:02:33
Okay I was reading on the internet about crossover settings and I have a question. If a low pass filter passes frequencies below its filter frequency and reduces the level of those frequencies above it, a high pass filter passes frequencies above its filter frequency and reduces the level of those frequencies below it, and my crossover is only hooked up to my subwoofers... then wouldn't the high pass filter do nothing to affect my system?
Swez on 12/18/2003 22:05:04
Yes, that is correct to a "point". The high pass filter (HPF) is designed for using in mids and highs speakers. The settings used, depend on the speakers' operational range. The "point" is when using HPF's for Subsonic filtering. These actually block ultra low (10-25 Hz) signals that never get to the amp or subs. Don't need one in sealed boxed per-se. But in ported enclosure applications and high power amps... yes, a good idea.
Now on sub crossovers... you have some latitude here, based on several factors. But for now, will spare you the gory details and suggest you try setting the LPF at 60 Hz, 80 & maybe try 100 Hz too. The one that sounds best in your ears, is the one to go with. If you go higher than 100 Hz, subs can get muddy and boomy in a larger sealed or ported box. The deep lows get outran by midbass and sound gets hollow and ill-defined.
Also, that amp will net modest bass from the paired subs... ~140 watts/sub. That a pleasant mix of bass to your existing mids and highs off the HU. Not rattling the neighbors windows... but about 130 dB of bass is not at all bad if the bass is tight but low as well. If you want more bass, the subs can take a larger amp for sure... just depends on how much you wish to invest.
A good Class D sub amp of say 600 watts into 1 or 2 ohms will net 300 RMS to each sub. That will give you about 6 dB more bass power and set you back between $200 - 400.00, depending on the brang and features.
Consider these:
1. Kicker KX-600. 2 ohm load only
2. JBL BP-600.1 (under $200.00, 1 or 2 ohm loads)
3. Audiobahn (many choices here)
4. US Acoustics (1000D or 800D are good choices)
Look for these off e-bay , thezeb.com and crutchfield.com
Any questions? Just ask...
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
