Now since I have upgraded my sub and amp my lights dim and my rpm’s dip when the base hits. Is this a problem that can be fixed with a Capacitor or battery or do I need to get a new alternator?
Replies (10)
cplkittle on 12/9/2003 08:39:07
Batteries and alternators far outweigh any cap on the market. caps are for short term use (a matter of seconds) before they are spent and have to recharge themselves.
What kind of amp do you have, and what size alt (amps) and battery (cca's) do you have now?
cplkittle on 12/9/2003 09:17:57
read this, it is very informative and humorous as well.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g120
xoix on 12/9/2003 13:19:02
I have a phoenix gold 900w mono block powering a JL 10w7, my alt and bat are original saturn parts, I'm not sure of the specs.
uochronos on 12/9/2003 14:52:00
I personaly would suggest a battery myself i see alot of people against caps here and i have never seen a cap fix any serious problem. it may fix slight light dimming but not your rpms droping. i had the same problem and opted for a Optima dry cell battery for 80$ considering most caps i see in the local stores start at around 50$ for the one car toys recomended for my 500 watt amp. i think an extra 30$ is worth it considering it did alot more then i think the cap would have the battery gave me 200 more CCA then my old battery also optima bartteries have a 3 or 5 year warranty mattering what ones you buy... ok there is my 2 cents and then some:)
xoix on 12/9/2003 23:33:58
Should I add a second battery wired in parallel or just upgrade my current one? Would I need to upgrade my alternator as well? I have read though some of the “debates” of the capacitors vs. batteries and I think the capacitor idea is out.
Munchiesyumm on 12/10/2003 01:29:28
Try the new battery first and than if your still lacking which you probably will not be you can try parelle wiring batterys. I have done it a couple times, the results are pretty good most the time but still a lot stress on alts.
cplkittle on 12/10/2003 08:30:21
your amplifier will pull 75 amps max. Factory alternators for your vehicle are rated at 96 amps. That leaves 21 amps for your vehicle's electrical system. Not a very bad situation if you upgrade your battery, just give the battery some time to charge back up (Don't run your system full blast from cranking up your car to parking it). You can also get a larger alt if you wish for that car, autozone recommends a BECK/ARNLEY 105 amp for $140-$50 core charge. In this case it is possible to keep your current battery, just let it recharge like I mentioned.
In any case, an upgrade in your electrical system is better for the whole car in the long run, it's not just a stereo related addition.
A 5 year warranty on a battery and LLT warranty on an alternator are worth the $200 invested, especially with cold weather upon us.
xoix on 12/13/2003 20:28:11
I hooked a volt meter you to my car and when the base hits it drops about ¾ of a volt when it’s turned up as loud as I can stand it. The rpms will dip 50-100. The ground is good and the connection on the hot wire is good, I am using 8 gauge wire, is that too small? Any way I’m shopping around for a better battery, any suggestions? how many cca's should I be looking for? Any certian brands I should look for?
Thanks for all your help
uochronos on 12/14/2003 12:14:23
I personaly love optima dry cell batterys they have a 5 year warranty on many models and they are just killer batteries. they have red tops which are basicaly standard batteries and yellow top deep cycles. in the red top they have a nice 800cca/980ca battery. in the yellow top they have a 900cca/1125ca battery i personaly am getting a yellow top for my car... in my current car only the lights dim but in my last car i had the same problem as you with the RPM's dropping and i got a 750CCA optima and it fixed the rpms droping but the lights still dimmed a fair amount when the bass hit.
Swez on 12/15/2003 08:06:50
If that is a mono amp and it draws more than 60 amps, use #4 gage power and ground wires for that amp. The #8 is good up to ~50A's of draw. Higher than that load can fry the #8 wires and start a fire.
Do your power feed wires get warm or hot after 30 minutes of pounding bass? Check the Pos wire at battery terminal and amp. If it is getting warm/hot or soft from heat, you're playing with a bad situation and could have a fire.
Swez
Replies (10)
cplkittle on 12/9/2003 08:39:07
Batteries and alternators far outweigh any cap on the market. caps are for short term use (a matter of seconds) before they are spent and have to recharge themselves.
What kind of amp do you have, and what size alt (amps) and battery (cca's) do you have now?
cplkittle on 12/9/2003 09:17:57
read this, it is very informative and humorous as well.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g120
xoix on 12/9/2003 13:19:02
I have a phoenix gold 900w mono block powering a JL 10w7, my alt and bat are original saturn parts, I'm not sure of the specs.
uochronos on 12/9/2003 14:52:00
I personaly would suggest a battery myself i see alot of people against caps here and i have never seen a cap fix any serious problem. it may fix slight light dimming but not your rpms droping. i had the same problem and opted for a Optima dry cell battery for 80$ considering most caps i see in the local stores start at around 50$ for the one car toys recomended for my 500 watt amp. i think an extra 30$ is worth it considering it did alot more then i think the cap would have the battery gave me 200 more CCA then my old battery also optima bartteries have a 3 or 5 year warranty mattering what ones you buy... ok there is my 2 cents and then some:)
xoix on 12/9/2003 23:33:58
Should I add a second battery wired in parallel or just upgrade my current one? Would I need to upgrade my alternator as well? I have read though some of the “debates” of the capacitors vs. batteries and I think the capacitor idea is out.
Munchiesyumm on 12/10/2003 01:29:28
Try the new battery first and than if your still lacking which you probably will not be you can try parelle wiring batterys. I have done it a couple times, the results are pretty good most the time but still a lot stress on alts.
cplkittle on 12/10/2003 08:30:21
your amplifier will pull 75 amps max. Factory alternators for your vehicle are rated at 96 amps. That leaves 21 amps for your vehicle's electrical system. Not a very bad situation if you upgrade your battery, just give the battery some time to charge back up (Don't run your system full blast from cranking up your car to parking it). You can also get a larger alt if you wish for that car, autozone recommends a BECK/ARNLEY 105 amp for $140-$50 core charge. In this case it is possible to keep your current battery, just let it recharge like I mentioned.
In any case, an upgrade in your electrical system is better for the whole car in the long run, it's not just a stereo related addition.
A 5 year warranty on a battery and LLT warranty on an alternator are worth the $200 invested, especially with cold weather upon us.
xoix on 12/13/2003 20:28:11
I hooked a volt meter you to my car and when the base hits it drops about ¾ of a volt when it’s turned up as loud as I can stand it. The rpms will dip 50-100. The ground is good and the connection on the hot wire is good, I am using 8 gauge wire, is that too small? Any way I’m shopping around for a better battery, any suggestions? how many cca's should I be looking for? Any certian brands I should look for?
Thanks for all your help
uochronos on 12/14/2003 12:14:23
I personaly love optima dry cell batterys they have a 5 year warranty on many models and they are just killer batteries. they have red tops which are basicaly standard batteries and yellow top deep cycles. in the red top they have a nice 800cca/980ca battery. in the yellow top they have a 900cca/1125ca battery i personaly am getting a yellow top for my car... in my current car only the lights dim but in my last car i had the same problem as you with the RPM's dropping and i got a 750CCA optima and it fixed the rpms droping but the lights still dimmed a fair amount when the bass hit.
Swez on 12/15/2003 08:06:50
If that is a mono amp and it draws more than 60 amps, use #4 gage power and ground wires for that amp. The #8 is good up to ~50A's of draw. Higher than that load can fry the #8 wires and start a fire.
Do your power feed wires get warm or hot after 30 minutes of pounding bass? Check the Pos wire at battery terminal and amp. If it is getting warm/hot or soft from heat, you're playing with a bad situation and could have a fire.
Swez
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