Help selecting a Amp

by Flacrash
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i just picked up 2 JL audio 10w1-4 in a down fire box for under the rear seat of my F150 (free) im looking for a Fosgate amp to run these they are 4 ohm single voice coil jl says 125 rms is good what Fosgate amp should i go with and in what configuation thanks in advance
newbie ( audio dummie) THINK


Replies (3)
Swez on 11/11/2003 19:07:38
If you want RF for an amp, need a Class D Mono amp to power these 4 ohm JL's.

This product will fit well with what you noted above. Will want to wire the subs in parallel to amp.

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-m5wa0EYidnh/
ProdView.asp?0&c=3&g=130&I=575301M&o=m&a
=0&cc=01&avf=N

Rockford Fosgate Punch 301M $199.99

Key Features:
150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
requires 10-gauge power and ground leads and a 30-amp fuse — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover, 12 dB per octave
TRANS•ana circuit designs keep voltages low and signal paths simple in the pre-amp section, for minimum distortion and maximum musicality
MEHSA provides more efficient transfer of heat from MOSFET output devices to the heatsink for cooler operation
TOPAZ — noise-killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
NOMAD — advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection
preamp- and speaker-level inputs
selectable Punch Bass boost (0/6/12 dB at 45 Hz)
frequency response 20-20,000 Hz
11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
1-year warranty

Other Brand Suggestion:

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1539
Rockford Fosgate POWER 351M $135.00
Specifications :
175 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
selectable 50-250 Hz variable low-pass crossover, 24 dB per octave
TRANS•ana circuit designs keep voltages low and signal paths simple in the pre-amp section, for minimum distortion and maximum musicality
MEHSA provides more efficient transfer of heat from MOSFET output devices to the heatsink for cooler operation
TOPAZ — noise-killing differential inputs that eliminate 80% of ground loop noise
NOMAD — advanced protection circuitry for "intelligent" shutdown protection
preamp-level inputs
preamp outputs (for passing signal to another amplifier)
wired remote Punch Bass boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz)
11-1/8"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-7/8"D
Warranty 1 year

ALSO:

http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/148
JBL BP300.1 $130.50
Specifications:

Output 4 Ohms: 150W x 1
Output 2 Ohms: 300W x 1
Signal-to-Noise (dBA): >100
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 500Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.1%
Input Sensitivity: 250mV - 4V
Die-cast chassis uses the entire footprint for amplifier cooling
"Direct-Connect" allows choice of 4 - 8-gauge power and ground cable
High-frequency switching power supply is more efficient, drawing far less current from the vehicle's electrical system
Four high-level and low-level inputs facilitate constant bass, regardless of head unit fader position
Variable electronic crossover and bass-boost optimize subwoofer performance
Warranty 1 Year

All 3 amps meet your power and speaker performance needs. The 351M from RF is a very good deal, a bit more power than the other two amps noted.

Swez






Flacrash on 11/11/2003 22:30:06
Swez thank you for you input im a dummy when it comes to this but why wouldnt i want something like a
451s ? 115 rms x 2 @ 4 ohms ???????
or a 401 s ?
sorry for my lack of knowing about this


Swez on 11/13/2003 08:48:03
You can use all of these amps with good results. However, the 401S & 451S are stereo amps. You would have to run 1 sub off each channel.

I choose Mono amps because:

1. Have more power for each sub
2. Can run the subs noted in parallel for a net 2 ohm load (best power usage)
3. More efficient use of car electrical power
3. Cost less than 2 channel amps (more bang for your buck)

You cannot bridge a 2 channel amp and use less than 4 ohms or it will run very hot and may shut down due to thermal protection circuits.

Finally, Class D Mono amps are very efficient. For every 100 watts they pull from your electrical system, they deliver ~80-90 watts out to subs. When using Class A/B (2 channel amps), these are less efficient. For every 100 watts these amps pull, you get ~60 watts out to subs. That's why I suggested the amps mentioned before.

Swez



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