im interested in puttin a system in my girl frines monte carlo but i dont want to spend a bunch and i dont want it to be overly loud. i was thinking of just a single 10" woofer and a respectable amp to go along with it. im lookin at maybe 250-300 dollars on this. we stopped into the stereo shop today and they quoted us 530 dollars for a 10 inch sub and a 400 watt amp. she liked how it sounded so know i know what i can get her for her birthday. i was thinkin somthing more of sound quality because she will remain with factory speakers and head unit for now and then later on maybe ill upgrade them as well but she dont listen to her music really loud so the factory speakers will be fine. any comments would be greatly apreciated. just want the best bang for the buck. thanx alot
Replies (8)
compvr15s on 10/31/2003 15:50:37
just looking around a lil bit, how does a jbl 150.1 and an the infinity reference 1030w sound. is the jbl amp also stable at 1ohm like the rest of the jbl amps or not? i can get this for probably around 150 plus shipping and handling. that amp will push that sub fine wont it as long as i dont get carried away. it say 50-250w rms and i assume that amp will prbably push closer to 200 watts than 150. i just figured id see what you guys think about this setup. should give a noticable amount of bass but still be reasonable for her listing needs.
Swez on 10/31/2003 18:49:27
Yes, a single 10 (DVC) 2/4/8 ohm will do nice and 150 watts RMS is plenty of bass for a stock HU and stock speakers to give some nice low end bump.
AMPS: Class D MONO amps
JBL BP150.1: 150 + Watts RMS @ 1 or 2 ohm loads, Output 4 Ohms: 75W x 1, Output 2 Ohms: 150W x 1. Signal-to-Noise (dBA): >100,
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 500Hz, Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.1%, Input Sensitivity: 250- 4.0 Volts
$90.00
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/623
JBL BP300.1: Output 4 Ohms: 150W x 1, Output 2 Ohms: 300W x 1,
Signal-to-Noise (dBA): >100, Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 500Hz. Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.1%, Input Sensitivity: 250mV - 4V. Die-cast chassis uses the entire footprint for amplifier cooling,
"Direct-Connect" allows choice of 4 - 8-gauge power and ground cable, High-frequency switching power supply is more efficient, drawing far less current from the vehicle's electrical system.
$130.50
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/148
OK, there are some amp selections in the power range mentioned. As you can see, some brands like Kicker and Alpine carry a bigger price tag, but not superior to JBL at all. The JBL BP-XXX series is the best bang for the buck buy on amps.
Here are a few more as well:
Alpine MRD-M300: 150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms, 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms, low-pass digital crossover, 30-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave, variable subsonic filter (15-50 Hz in 5 Hz steps). parametric EQ variable from 30-160 Hz $211.50
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1286
Kicker KX400.1: 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms, 400 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms, variable 50-200 Hz low-pass crossover, 12 dB per octave
25 Hz subsonic filter, 12 dB per octave, efficient Class D amp design
$229.50
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/641
Now, pick an amp you think will fit the bill and then we'll look at a sub and enclosure that meets the rest of your budget.
Swez
compvr15s on 11/1/2003 13:57:32
i will probably just go with the jbl 150 since its gonna give the sub enough power and thats a great price. im figuring a small sealed enclosure, somthing that will have a small effect on the space she loses. also have a question on the LOCs. do they just tie into the rear speaker leads or how do they function, i have dont know of anybody that has used them before so i dont know how they work. if they go through the rear speakers will she lose the use of her back speakers or will they not be affected. will the 8awg wire be sufficient for the bp150.1? thanx alot swez
Swez on 11/1/2003 21:45:28
Actually, the BP 150.1 can be be wired directly to your rear speakers w/o and LOC.
This amp series has high signal input (speaker level) inputs and RCA's. If you use the high signal inputs, no LOC's needed and the amp will not require a REMote turn on feed. It detects signals coming into the amp (high signal ins) and will turn on the amp automatically. Easy deal huh?
As for subs... don't need a real power house sub here either. A DVC sub would be your best bet as you need a 1 or 2 ohm load to get the most from this amp.
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1350
Infinity Reference 1032w $58.50
10" Dual Voice Coil (2/8 ohms)
Power Handling, RMS: 250 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 1000 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz – 250Hz
Sensitivity: 90dB (2.83v @ 1 m.)
Impedance: 2 Ohms or 8 Ohms (DVC)
MA AUDIO MXI SERIES
http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/
MA_Audio/MA_Audio_MXI.htm
May be hard to find, but a very good SQL sub too and cheap!
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1656
GT100D 10" DVC $55.00
Power Handling, RMS: 250 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 1000 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB): 28Hz - 500Hz
Sensitivity: 90dB (2.83v @1m)
Impedance: DUAL 4 Ohms
All these woofers will do a nice job for a low price and still have money left over for a wiring kit and enclosure. Sure.. there are others to look at too... but this is what I found that will sound very good with that amp.
Does any of these look right for your application?
Swez
compvr15s on 11/2/2003 12:10:46
im pretty sure im going to go with the infinity refernce here. i have heard nothing but good things about these subs. i just wish i could hear one before i buy it. but im very confident that if you guys say its a great sub that i will be getting exactly what you say. i trust your guys judgment very highly. with the high signal inputs, do they just splice into the rear speakers? im sorry but i havnt used them either, anything i have done has always had a HU with rca outputs. thanz alot swez, once i finish this install i plan on donating some money to the site for all the money you alone have saved me.
Swez on 11/2/2003 12:20:05
As for getting your audio signals to the amp, yes... just add pigtails (speaker wires) to your rear speakers and attach to amp inputs. All you will need than... an inline fuse (near the battery) of say 20A, #10 power wire and ground.
The Ref series is a very good SQ sub. It will take 250 RMS of power, but works just fine at lower RMS watts. I have recommended the Ref series to several guys and they were very pleased with the price, performance and general power handling of this sub series.
As for the JBL amps... they stand up well under anything short of <1.0 ohm loads. I even heard of a guy running one at 0.5 ohms. It got a bit warm.. but never pooped out or went into protect mode according to his accounts. Not bad for such a small price.
You were on the right track all along... just had to give you a nudge of facts and details to confirm you were on the right track already.
OK... budget wise, we $90.00 on the amp, $60.00 on the sub, figure ~$20.00 for a wiring kit (http://www.knukonceptz.com/) and all you need is a sub enclosure. SZ makes a nice sealed for $50.00. So, we have $220.00 on the table here plus S/H fees. That looks like a package with high SQ, good SPL and very compact for under $300.00
SEALED: http://www.subzoneusa.com/images/h-101%20dimensions.jpg
H-101 10" Sealed 3/4" MDF Box - 0.86cf Picture $49.99
NOTE: Ref recommends 0.75cf, but this box will be fine... just better low end bass
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/subzone_universal
_sub_boxes.html
PORTED: May have to build your own as I cannot find any ported boxed in that size... 1.75 cf.
I would go sealed here as it is much smaller and you cannot build one for much cheaper than the SZ box noted above.
What ya think now?
Swez
compvr15s on 11/2/2003 13:09:23
my brother used to be big in the car audio back in the early to mid 90's and he has two bazooka bass tubes that he used to use, but somehow mice ate at the speakers and ruined them, do you think it would be possible to use one of the tubes for an enclosure, if not i can build a small sealed box for the 10, i have plentey of wood left over from my sub box. and the local stereo shop has a few boxes that are down in their basement they said they would sell me one for around 35 bucks, they just need to be re-carpeted maybe i should just do that. ill search through the ones they have and find one around .75 cubic feet. thanx swex
Swez on 11/2/2003 15:07:40
That Bazooka tube may work if you can get the cf needed and the sub will fit. This sub will work in a smaller or larger sealed enclosure. There is a range of about +/-20% you can go and still be ok.
The smaller the box, the more SPL and punchier the bass will be. In a larger box, more low end bass extension and deeper (fuller) bass you can expect.
Range: 0.6 cf min, 0.9 cf max.... 0.75 is a good mix of the two.
Hope that helps,
Swez
Replies (8)
compvr15s on 10/31/2003 15:50:37
just looking around a lil bit, how does a jbl 150.1 and an the infinity reference 1030w sound. is the jbl amp also stable at 1ohm like the rest of the jbl amps or not? i can get this for probably around 150 plus shipping and handling. that amp will push that sub fine wont it as long as i dont get carried away. it say 50-250w rms and i assume that amp will prbably push closer to 200 watts than 150. i just figured id see what you guys think about this setup. should give a noticable amount of bass but still be reasonable for her listing needs.
Swez on 10/31/2003 18:49:27
Yes, a single 10 (DVC) 2/4/8 ohm will do nice and 150 watts RMS is plenty of bass for a stock HU and stock speakers to give some nice low end bump.
AMPS: Class D MONO amps
JBL BP150.1: 150 + Watts RMS @ 1 or 2 ohm loads, Output 4 Ohms: 75W x 1, Output 2 Ohms: 150W x 1. Signal-to-Noise (dBA): >100,
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 500Hz, Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.1%, Input Sensitivity: 250- 4.0 Volts
$90.00
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/623
JBL BP300.1: Output 4 Ohms: 150W x 1, Output 2 Ohms: 300W x 1,
Signal-to-Noise (dBA): >100, Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz - 500Hz. Total Harmonic Distortion: 0.1%, Input Sensitivity: 250mV - 4V. Die-cast chassis uses the entire footprint for amplifier cooling,
"Direct-Connect" allows choice of 4 - 8-gauge power and ground cable, High-frequency switching power supply is more efficient, drawing far less current from the vehicle's electrical system.
$130.50
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/148
OK, there are some amp selections in the power range mentioned. As you can see, some brands like Kicker and Alpine carry a bigger price tag, but not superior to JBL at all. The JBL BP-XXX series is the best bang for the buck buy on amps.
Here are a few more as well:
Alpine MRD-M300: 150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms, 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms, low-pass digital crossover, 30-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave, variable subsonic filter (15-50 Hz in 5 Hz steps). parametric EQ variable from 30-160 Hz $211.50
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1286
Kicker KX400.1: 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms, 400 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms, variable 50-200 Hz low-pass crossover, 12 dB per octave
25 Hz subsonic filter, 12 dB per octave, efficient Class D amp design
$229.50
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/641
Now, pick an amp you think will fit the bill and then we'll look at a sub and enclosure that meets the rest of your budget.
Swez
compvr15s on 11/1/2003 13:57:32
i will probably just go with the jbl 150 since its gonna give the sub enough power and thats a great price. im figuring a small sealed enclosure, somthing that will have a small effect on the space she loses. also have a question on the LOCs. do they just tie into the rear speaker leads or how do they function, i have dont know of anybody that has used them before so i dont know how they work. if they go through the rear speakers will she lose the use of her back speakers or will they not be affected. will the 8awg wire be sufficient for the bp150.1? thanx alot swez
Swez on 11/1/2003 21:45:28
Actually, the BP 150.1 can be be wired directly to your rear speakers w/o and LOC.
This amp series has high signal input (speaker level) inputs and RCA's. If you use the high signal inputs, no LOC's needed and the amp will not require a REMote turn on feed. It detects signals coming into the amp (high signal ins) and will turn on the amp automatically. Easy deal huh?
As for subs... don't need a real power house sub here either. A DVC sub would be your best bet as you need a 1 or 2 ohm load to get the most from this amp.
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1350
Infinity Reference 1032w $58.50
10" Dual Voice Coil (2/8 ohms)
Power Handling, RMS: 250 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 1000 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB): 20Hz – 250Hz
Sensitivity: 90dB (2.83v @ 1 m.)
Impedance: 2 Ohms or 8 Ohms (DVC)
MA AUDIO MXI SERIES
http://www.justwoofers.com/Woofer_Pages/
MA_Audio/MA_Audio_MXI.htm
May be hard to find, but a very good SQL sub too and cheap!
http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1656
GT100D 10" DVC $55.00
Power Handling, RMS: 250 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 1000 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB): 28Hz - 500Hz
Sensitivity: 90dB (2.83v @1m)
Impedance: DUAL 4 Ohms
All these woofers will do a nice job for a low price and still have money left over for a wiring kit and enclosure. Sure.. there are others to look at too... but this is what I found that will sound very good with that amp.
Does any of these look right for your application?
Swez
compvr15s on 11/2/2003 12:10:46
im pretty sure im going to go with the infinity refernce here. i have heard nothing but good things about these subs. i just wish i could hear one before i buy it. but im very confident that if you guys say its a great sub that i will be getting exactly what you say. i trust your guys judgment very highly. with the high signal inputs, do they just splice into the rear speakers? im sorry but i havnt used them either, anything i have done has always had a HU with rca outputs. thanz alot swez, once i finish this install i plan on donating some money to the site for all the money you alone have saved me.
Swez on 11/2/2003 12:20:05
As for getting your audio signals to the amp, yes... just add pigtails (speaker wires) to your rear speakers and attach to amp inputs. All you will need than... an inline fuse (near the battery) of say 20A, #10 power wire and ground.
The Ref series is a very good SQ sub. It will take 250 RMS of power, but works just fine at lower RMS watts. I have recommended the Ref series to several guys and they were very pleased with the price, performance and general power handling of this sub series.
As for the JBL amps... they stand up well under anything short of <1.0 ohm loads. I even heard of a guy running one at 0.5 ohms. It got a bit warm.. but never pooped out or went into protect mode according to his accounts. Not bad for such a small price.
You were on the right track all along... just had to give you a nudge of facts and details to confirm you were on the right track already.
OK... budget wise, we $90.00 on the amp, $60.00 on the sub, figure ~$20.00 for a wiring kit (http://www.knukonceptz.com/) and all you need is a sub enclosure. SZ makes a nice sealed for $50.00. So, we have $220.00 on the table here plus S/H fees. That looks like a package with high SQ, good SPL and very compact for under $300.00
SEALED: http://www.subzoneusa.com/images/h-101%20dimensions.jpg
H-101 10" Sealed 3/4" MDF Box - 0.86cf Picture $49.99
NOTE: Ref recommends 0.75cf, but this box will be fine... just better low end bass
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/subzone_universal
_sub_boxes.html
PORTED: May have to build your own as I cannot find any ported boxed in that size... 1.75 cf.
I would go sealed here as it is much smaller and you cannot build one for much cheaper than the SZ box noted above.
What ya think now?
Swez
compvr15s on 11/2/2003 13:09:23
my brother used to be big in the car audio back in the early to mid 90's and he has two bazooka bass tubes that he used to use, but somehow mice ate at the speakers and ruined them, do you think it would be possible to use one of the tubes for an enclosure, if not i can build a small sealed box for the 10, i have plentey of wood left over from my sub box. and the local stereo shop has a few boxes that are down in their basement they said they would sell me one for around 35 bucks, they just need to be re-carpeted maybe i should just do that. ill search through the ones they have and find one around .75 cubic feet. thanx swex
Swez on 11/2/2003 15:07:40
That Bazooka tube may work if you can get the cf needed and the sub will fit. This sub will work in a smaller or larger sealed enclosure. There is a range of about +/-20% you can go and still be ok.
The smaller the box, the more SPL and punchier the bass will be. In a larger box, more low end bass extension and deeper (fuller) bass you can expect.
Range: 0.6 cf min, 0.9 cf max.... 0.75 is a good mix of the two.
Hope that helps,
Swez
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