I posted a few weeks back and you guys gave me some great advice, but the guy I purchased my subs from on ebay finally tells me that he does not have the subs because they are back ordered. So I'm MAD.
So now I have $210 an amp and now no subs to run it off of.
I'd like to know your opions on what to get for this price, either 1 15" or 2 12" or 1 bad ace 12".
The amp I have is a Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS w/Illuminated Logo
Specs:
200 X 2 at 4 Ohms Stereo 400 x 2 at 2 Ohms Stereo 800 x 1 at 4 Ohms Mono Dimensions: 1-7/8" H x 9-7/8" W x 11-7/8" D Class A/B MOSFET Circuitry PWM MOSFET Power Supply Semi-double Glass Epoxy Circuit Board THD: 0.02% S/N Ratio: >100dB Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz (+/- 1dB) Variable 18dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz - 750Hz Variable 18dB Low-pass Crossover: 50Hz to 120Hz Bass Boost On/Off Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 50Hz RCA Throughput Connections 3-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload; Cooling Fan Cobalt Blue Illumination High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish Nickel Plated Block Terminals Air Induction Fan Cooled RCA and Speaker Level Inputs
Thanks in advance for the input.
Still dumb and ugly.
Replies (14)
Swez on 10/7/2003 19:28:56
Well.. you are smart enough to ask for help... but not sure if we can help on the ugly part... I have the same problem... hehe
Nice amp and good price as well!
Now, a sub (or subs) for this beast are going to be a tad more expensive. There are several high quality 12's and 15's that will take the power this amp will deliver. Depends on how much space you have for the sub enclosure.
Also, if you bridge this amp MONO for a single/dual sub, must have a 4 ohm load to amp!!!
Do you have a buget figure in mind at the moment? No sense showing you "the big guns" unless you can afford them. Got a ball park figure on what you are willing to spend on sub(s)?
Swez
PS Are you more into Rap and Hip Hop, or other kinds of moosick. It matters as some subs are very good at high SPL but average SQ. Other subs can do both well = SQL subs
PPS This amp draws some serious current too. So your vehicle will have to have adequate electricals to feed this amp. My guess, 90- 100A of current draw at full power here. That means a high output ALT and larger CCA rated battery and maybe some wiring upgrades between ALT/BAT/GND. Have to check your amp fusing or install guide for details.
ugly on 10/7/2003 20:58:38
I'm willing to put 210 into subs or a sub. I basically listen to all types of music. Heavy metal to rap.
When I emailed audiobahn about the amp draw they said that it would pull 65 at full current. My alt will do 65 amp and my battery is rated at 850CCA.
I really like feeling my bass so I'd rather have more SPL than SQ.
As far as space I know two 12"s will fit so I'm not really worried about it.
thanks
ugliest guy you know
p.s. I you have a prob. with looks I saw your pics. of you making an enclosure.
Swez on 10/8/2003 08:48:33
I was looking at Bahn subs that meet your budget criteria and came up with 3 of them from:
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/audiobahn_subwoofers.html
1. AW1200X 2001 Model Closout! 12" Subwoofer w/ dual 4ohm voice coils - 700 watts RMS $ 99.99 each
2. AW120Q 12" Subwoofer w/ 4ohm voice coil - 500 watts RMS
$ 59.99! each (SALE price)
3. AW1251T 12" Subwoofer w/ dual 4ohm voice coils - 400 watts RMS $ 89.99 each
Any one of these in pairs will meet your power, ohmic load and budget needs.
If you want bass you can really feel, then considered a ported enclosure tuned to ~35-40 Hz. This amp has a sub sonic filter, so you have all the tools to go ported if you so desire.
Will have to go to Bahn web site for box specs or contact them via
e-mail on the subs you like best. The AW1200X appears to be your best choice in all for power and still remain on budget. You may also find a few lower prices on items listed off E-bay.
Finally, that amp only pulls 65 amps at full power? Really... that makes this amp extremely efficient. Most Class A/B amps I have seen in this power rating pull much more current.
Ugly, but helpfully yours,
Swez
ugly on 10/8/2003 13:47:02
Thank you very much I'll order them today.
I don't know about that 65 amps but that's what the techs. at audiobahn told me.
I guess we will see.
Thanks for your help again.
Ugly forever
ugly on 11/6/2003 00:31:05
I was just going to update you guys on what all went on with my system.
First off I would like to thank you all for the great help and advice.
Today I had my system installed finally. I had a custom made box and the guy went crazy on it. It looks so pretty. It is so much louder than I am used to, I think I am going to have to get some component speakers so I can hear the high end, but thats no big deal.
I took 3 of my friends out and they had their fingers in their ears the whole time. I have already been on a complaint list here and the dorms. I guess that means they work.
Anyway thanks again.
Swez on 11/6/2003 04:38:51
Which subs did you end up with and how is your electrical system managing that amp current draw? That 850 CCA battery should help a good deal. If you lights are not dimming on big bass hits, obviously something is going right, in spite of the small alternator mentioned.
As I reviewed the specs on the amp above, it seems to be a hybrid design using both Class D and Class A/B amping technologies. That may well account for the low power draw (current) this amp needs to put out all that power. If this is indeed true, Bahn has an innovative design for high power, high efficiency amplification that is truly state of the art for car audio.
Comments?
Swez
ugly on 11/6/2003 13:37:32
I ended up with the aw1200x and ordered them from www.thezeb.com like you suggested. They shipped in two days I think. I have noticed that the dome light dims slightly with the base hits but thats with all my lights on and the stereo cranked.
Bahn must be doing something right. There are only two 30 watt fuses on the thing. It is a very nice looking amp. I was very impressed.
As for my battery it is about 3 years old and it corroded a little bit so that may not be so great, but I'll just kill it and have my parents pay for a new one.
When I go home I'll try to steal the digital camera and send some pics if your interested.
Ugly and out.
Relax_The_Mind on 11/6/2003 15:55:29
Nice... I have those same subs. Dont know where you stand but I am very satisfied with them given the price I got them for. I am running them with a Lanzar vibe250 which is wired up at around 800wrms I know they take a little more. I got them inverted and in a sealed box. yeh post your pics up sometime.
Make sure the sun doesnt have direct contact with the foam surround. only takes one or two hot summer to damage them enough to make them slightly brittle.
Am I allowed to do this Walt? hehe
RTM
ugly on 11/6/2003 17:06:46
Well shoot. I don't know what I could put over them. They will be directly in the sun, because I have a hatchback and they aren't inverted like yours. You got any suggestions.
And I like your set up by the way.
Swez on 11/7/2003 00:38:30
Just a cover to block the direct sun is good. Needs to reflect sunlight rather than absorb so light colors are best here.
Cracking your windows a tad will help keep the car cooler as will parking in the shade when possible. Just a small crack so that "Mr. Slippery" cannot get in and steal your gear.
The cover will also conceal what you have.
Swez
RTM... how you do that pic stuff? Pretty savvy on this one!
ugly on 11/7/2003 00:56:05
Some of my friends have told me to just tint the back window and have offered to do it for me. Do you think that will work???
And I just blew one of my interior speakers tonight. O well I guess I'll just try to install it my self not supposed to be hard.
Swez on 11/7/2003 16:33:25
Which one did you blow... rear speaker or fronts? If you plan to get something to keep up with your subs, may need to get a decent amp to power them.
Stock speakers are fine for Stock HU's, but when you use amps, the stock speakers are not gonna take it well. Most are rated below 25 watts RMS each unless there are factor amps involved like Infinity etc.
Window tinting is a plus. Especially on sides and rear window. (hatch)
Need to find out what is allowed in your area on tinting though. Some localities have strict rules on tinting percetages. They do write tickets if your windows are too dark. Officer safety is the reason and I cannot blame them on that one.
Swez
ugly on 11/7/2003 21:32:38
I blew my rear ones. I went and got some new ones(power acoustic). I didn't want to go very expensive. I couldn't fit another amp considering my alternator. These sound fine and it was fun doing my first install on my car.
I believe they allow 35% tint in Missouri. I have several friends with 5% and they get away with it. They aren't to strict about it unless your a dick to them.
Swez on 11/7/2003 23:50:06
If these are rear desk speakers and the sub is also there in the trunk/hatch, bass waves from subs need to be sonically isolated from you rear speakers.
The bass waves will really hammer you speaker in rear if not isolated. A small enclosure for the rears will do the trick. Does not have to be perfectly air tight... but knocks out the bass energy enough to prevent the rear speaker cones from going ballistic.
Need some ideas... just ask! Better SQ too.
Swez
So now I have $210 an amp and now no subs to run it off of.
I'd like to know your opions on what to get for this price, either 1 15" or 2 12" or 1 bad ace 12".
The amp I have is a Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS w/Illuminated Logo
Specs:
200 X 2 at 4 Ohms Stereo 400 x 2 at 2 Ohms Stereo 800 x 1 at 4 Ohms Mono Dimensions: 1-7/8" H x 9-7/8" W x 11-7/8" D Class A/B MOSFET Circuitry PWM MOSFET Power Supply Semi-double Glass Epoxy Circuit Board THD: 0.02% S/N Ratio: >100dB Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz (+/- 1dB) Variable 18dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz - 750Hz Variable 18dB Low-pass Crossover: 50Hz to 120Hz Bass Boost On/Off Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 50Hz RCA Throughput Connections 3-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload; Cooling Fan Cobalt Blue Illumination High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish Nickel Plated Block Terminals Air Induction Fan Cooled RCA and Speaker Level Inputs
Thanks in advance for the input.
Still dumb and ugly.
Replies (14)
Swez on 10/7/2003 19:28:56
Well.. you are smart enough to ask for help... but not sure if we can help on the ugly part... I have the same problem... hehe
Nice amp and good price as well!
Now, a sub (or subs) for this beast are going to be a tad more expensive. There are several high quality 12's and 15's that will take the power this amp will deliver. Depends on how much space you have for the sub enclosure.
Also, if you bridge this amp MONO for a single/dual sub, must have a 4 ohm load to amp!!!
Do you have a buget figure in mind at the moment? No sense showing you "the big guns" unless you can afford them. Got a ball park figure on what you are willing to spend on sub(s)?
Swez
PS Are you more into Rap and Hip Hop, or other kinds of moosick. It matters as some subs are very good at high SPL but average SQ. Other subs can do both well = SQL subs
PPS This amp draws some serious current too. So your vehicle will have to have adequate electricals to feed this amp. My guess, 90- 100A of current draw at full power here. That means a high output ALT and larger CCA rated battery and maybe some wiring upgrades between ALT/BAT/GND. Have to check your amp fusing or install guide for details.
ugly on 10/7/2003 20:58:38
I'm willing to put 210 into subs or a sub. I basically listen to all types of music. Heavy metal to rap.
When I emailed audiobahn about the amp draw they said that it would pull 65 at full current. My alt will do 65 amp and my battery is rated at 850CCA.
I really like feeling my bass so I'd rather have more SPL than SQ.
As far as space I know two 12"s will fit so I'm not really worried about it.
thanks
ugliest guy you know
p.s. I you have a prob. with looks I saw your pics. of you making an enclosure.
Swez on 10/8/2003 08:48:33
I was looking at Bahn subs that meet your budget criteria and came up with 3 of them from:
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/audiobahn_subwoofers.html
1. AW1200X 2001 Model Closout! 12" Subwoofer w/ dual 4ohm voice coils - 700 watts RMS $ 99.99 each
2. AW120Q 12" Subwoofer w/ 4ohm voice coil - 500 watts RMS
$ 59.99! each (SALE price)
3. AW1251T 12" Subwoofer w/ dual 4ohm voice coils - 400 watts RMS $ 89.99 each
Any one of these in pairs will meet your power, ohmic load and budget needs.
If you want bass you can really feel, then considered a ported enclosure tuned to ~35-40 Hz. This amp has a sub sonic filter, so you have all the tools to go ported if you so desire.
Will have to go to Bahn web site for box specs or contact them via
e-mail on the subs you like best. The AW1200X appears to be your best choice in all for power and still remain on budget. You may also find a few lower prices on items listed off E-bay.
Finally, that amp only pulls 65 amps at full power? Really... that makes this amp extremely efficient. Most Class A/B amps I have seen in this power rating pull much more current.
Ugly, but helpfully yours,
Swez
ugly on 10/8/2003 13:47:02
Thank you very much I'll order them today.
I don't know about that 65 amps but that's what the techs. at audiobahn told me.
I guess we will see.
Thanks for your help again.
Ugly forever
ugly on 11/6/2003 00:31:05
I was just going to update you guys on what all went on with my system.
First off I would like to thank you all for the great help and advice.
Today I had my system installed finally. I had a custom made box and the guy went crazy on it. It looks so pretty. It is so much louder than I am used to, I think I am going to have to get some component speakers so I can hear the high end, but thats no big deal.
I took 3 of my friends out and they had their fingers in their ears the whole time. I have already been on a complaint list here and the dorms. I guess that means they work.
Anyway thanks again.
Swez on 11/6/2003 04:38:51
Which subs did you end up with and how is your electrical system managing that amp current draw? That 850 CCA battery should help a good deal. If you lights are not dimming on big bass hits, obviously something is going right, in spite of the small alternator mentioned.
As I reviewed the specs on the amp above, it seems to be a hybrid design using both Class D and Class A/B amping technologies. That may well account for the low power draw (current) this amp needs to put out all that power. If this is indeed true, Bahn has an innovative design for high power, high efficiency amplification that is truly state of the art for car audio.
Comments?
Swez
ugly on 11/6/2003 13:37:32
I ended up with the aw1200x and ordered them from www.thezeb.com like you suggested. They shipped in two days I think. I have noticed that the dome light dims slightly with the base hits but thats with all my lights on and the stereo cranked.
Bahn must be doing something right. There are only two 30 watt fuses on the thing. It is a very nice looking amp. I was very impressed.
As for my battery it is about 3 years old and it corroded a little bit so that may not be so great, but I'll just kill it and have my parents pay for a new one.
When I go home I'll try to steal the digital camera and send some pics if your interested.
Ugly and out.
Relax_The_Mind on 11/6/2003 15:55:29
Nice... I have those same subs. Dont know where you stand but I am very satisfied with them given the price I got them for. I am running them with a Lanzar vibe250 which is wired up at around 800wrms I know they take a little more. I got them inverted and in a sealed box. yeh post your pics up sometime.
Make sure the sun doesnt have direct contact with the foam surround. only takes one or two hot summer to damage them enough to make them slightly brittle.
Am I allowed to do this Walt? hehe
RTM
ugly on 11/6/2003 17:06:46
Well shoot. I don't know what I could put over them. They will be directly in the sun, because I have a hatchback and they aren't inverted like yours. You got any suggestions.
And I like your set up by the way.
Swez on 11/7/2003 00:38:30
Just a cover to block the direct sun is good. Needs to reflect sunlight rather than absorb so light colors are best here.
Cracking your windows a tad will help keep the car cooler as will parking in the shade when possible. Just a small crack so that "Mr. Slippery" cannot get in and steal your gear.
The cover will also conceal what you have.
Swez
RTM... how you do that pic stuff? Pretty savvy on this one!
ugly on 11/7/2003 00:56:05
Some of my friends have told me to just tint the back window and have offered to do it for me. Do you think that will work???
And I just blew one of my interior speakers tonight. O well I guess I'll just try to install it my self not supposed to be hard.
Swez on 11/7/2003 16:33:25
Which one did you blow... rear speaker or fronts? If you plan to get something to keep up with your subs, may need to get a decent amp to power them.
Stock speakers are fine for Stock HU's, but when you use amps, the stock speakers are not gonna take it well. Most are rated below 25 watts RMS each unless there are factor amps involved like Infinity etc.
Window tinting is a plus. Especially on sides and rear window. (hatch)
Need to find out what is allowed in your area on tinting though. Some localities have strict rules on tinting percetages. They do write tickets if your windows are too dark. Officer safety is the reason and I cannot blame them on that one.
Swez
ugly on 11/7/2003 21:32:38
I blew my rear ones. I went and got some new ones(power acoustic). I didn't want to go very expensive. I couldn't fit another amp considering my alternator. These sound fine and it was fun doing my first install on my car.
I believe they allow 35% tint in Missouri. I have several friends with 5% and they get away with it. They aren't to strict about it unless your a dick to them.
Swez on 11/7/2003 23:50:06
If these are rear desk speakers and the sub is also there in the trunk/hatch, bass waves from subs need to be sonically isolated from you rear speakers.
The bass waves will really hammer you speaker in rear if not isolated. A small enclosure for the rears will do the trick. Does not have to be perfectly air tight... but knocks out the bass energy enough to prevent the rear speaker cones from going ballistic.
Need some ideas... just ask! Better SQ too.
Swez
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