I'm back again! GRIN
I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the setup that you recommended for the low-end of my start-up system (a JBL 600.1 and two 12" Adire Shiva Mark III subs). So, you're saying that my system will probably sound best in a smaller (1.25cft/sub) sealed box (still have good SPL, but GREAT SQ), and I won't need to buy subsonic filters for the amp, right? Like I said, I’m going to let my local shop handle my sub enclosure (but thanks for the specs you gave me for the Shivas!)
NOW I need help with the rest of the system...
I've got some ideas for the rest, but it my whole system would run me about $2000 - $3000 once I add everything to my car. I want to try to keep the budget with a max of $1000, if you can lead me to some good quality, but less pricy equipment, like you helped me out with the JBL and Shivas (again, PLEASE list the prices and Web sites for the components that you suggest – like you did last time – as that was VERY helpful).
Also, what size components would you recommend for a ’92 Accord which, according to Crutchfield.com, has 5” factory speakers in the front doors.
THINK Here’s what I’m thinking about:
CDA-7995 Alpine head unit ($300 on sale @ www.crutchfield.com)
605cs Infinity Reference 6.5” component system ($200 @ crutchfield)
(OR)
505cs Infinity Reference 5.5” component system ($180 @ crutchfield)
501X Rockford Fosgate Punch 65Wx4 amplifier for comps ($350 @ crutchfield)
6952i Infinity Reference 2-way 6”x9” speakers for rear deck ($120 @ crutchfield)
401S Rockford Fosgate Punch 100Wx2 amp for 6x9s ($250 @ crutchfield)
(OR)
351S Rockford Fosgate Power 90Wx2 amp for 6x9s ($250 @ crutchfield)
Like I said, I’ve got a brand-new battery and a brand-new alternator in my Accord, but with all of these amps (plus the JBL 600.1), I’m sure I’ll need some capacitators or whatever, but I know NOTHING about that kind of stuff. Please let me know what I’ll need in that area, with the items that you recommend.
As far as the Alpine/Infinity/Rockford equipment I mentioned, again, I’m looking for good some comparable, quality equipment at budget prices (just like the way you recommended the Shivas, as opposed to the JL Audio 12W0s that I was originally considering).
Another thing I know nothing about is how much I should expect to pay for the INSTALLATION of this entire system. How much is reasonable if:
A) I bring in all my own equipment except for the box, which I buy at my local shop.
B) I buy the box and all wiring kit(s) at my local shop.
Finally, what exactly is the purpose of an AMP RACK? Is it just for looks? Does it make it easier to transfer the audio system to a new car (some day)? Or does it serve some other function(s) that I don’t know about?
Once again, your advice / suggestions / warnings / comments are APPRECIATED!!!
Thanks!
USFLAG
Replies (7)
compvr15s on 09/25/2003 19:38:23
for the 6.5s take a look at these speakers. originally 309 on sale for 149. really good speakers just odd colored paint. http://thezeb.com/caraudio/specials_speakers.html
4 channel amp. us accoustics has an under-rated 4x65 watt amp for 129. will do your fronts and rears a good power boost.
you will not need 2 sets of component speakers. a good set of seperates in the front a a good set of 6x9s will slam with your sub system.try to stay away from buying off crutchfield, you will feel used afterwards lol. check e-bay for good sellers with good feedback, try ikesound.com thezeb.com nexxon.com.. you should be able to find all the equipment for 40-60 percent cheaper than crutchfield. installation is a cinch, will all the people on this forum you should be able to do it all yourself and save major money, most shops charge 50 dollars an hour. good luck, i prolly didnt answer all your questions but im sure others will pick up the ones i missed.
92_accord_ex on 09/25/2003 23:18:21
Thanks for the tips! By the way, I know I don't need 2 sets of components...that's why it says "OR" between 2 sets that I am trying to decide between: 5.5" vs. 6.5"
Same with the 2 similar priced amps for the 6x9s: RF Punch 100Wx2 vs. RF Power 90x2.
PLEASE KEEP SENDING REPLIES, EVERYONE!
THANKS!!!
GRIN
Buickman94 on 09/25/2003 23:33:06
I would stay away from the newer fosgate equiptment as they have really gone downhill recently, and there are better cheaper options. And like mentioned before, i would really stay away from buying crutchfield, the prices there are marked up so much its ridicules.
example:401S Rockford Fosgate Punch 100Wx2 amp for 6x9s ($250 @ crutchfield)
consider instead the USX2100 Amplifier - 100x2 @ 4ohm for 124.99 at
http://thezeb.com/caraudio/us_acoustics.html thats $125 saved right there.
dflock on 09/26/2003 08:48:17
Buickman or anyone else,
What has gone sour in RF? Why has it degraded? Just out of curiousity, I don't care for RF myself. I know their amps don't meet the same standards in power rating as they once did, but that could be the same for many companies in a sagging economy. I heard that the head engineer left and went to JL Audio, any truth in that either?! I would like some information on all this, I have a friend who wants to get an ALL RF system and time after time I've tried to tell him not to. I need some hard evidence to back my statement up.
Thanks,
Derek
Swez on 09/26/2003 07:57:48
OK, making progress and decisions are going to be a bit more complex.
A good pair of Comps (6.5" CDT CL-61a) as noted in an earlier post will be a great deal and choice for your front doors. The modification from 5/4" to 6.5" drivers is usally not difficult for a pro. A bit more challenging for a noobie.
http://thezeb.com/caraudio/specials_speakers.html $149.00/pr. 90 watts RMS... an excellent value buy
As for rear speaker stage, if you have 6x9's in the rear deck, go that route as these are mainly rear fill anyway. The trick here, is to cover them and make them sealed so that bass from the subs will not make the rear deck speakers go into spasms with lots of bass SPL. May need to take some careful depth measurments here to insure the 6x9's you choose will fit w/o excess depth issues to overcome. Forget using rear door and deck speakers... pick one or the other, but not both. This cuts out one more amp as well as speakers costs.
Nice HU you have choosen. Just check other sites like e-bay for better prices. Crutch is a great e-tailer and they service thier customers very well... but that extra touch is more expensive in many cases, but they are very good at what they do.
As for 4 channel amps, I agree that the USX/USB-4065 (4085) will do a terrific job powering your interior speakers. Zeb and Crutch carry both versions. (65x4/85x4 RMS respectively) US Acoustics is the brand.
Now, we need to get some nitty griity details from you... the JBL pulls 57A at max power, but nominal draw will be closer to 40A. The USX amps have 40/60A fuse ratings respectively, and will pull ~30/45A respectively. This means the ALT you use, will need to provide 85A or more current to keep your lights from dimming.
You can offset of of this current draw with a larger CCA rated battery. Something on the order of a +800 CCA rated battery. The larger batter is much more effective than a Cap and costs less in most cases as well. Figure ~$80.00 for a battery of this rating.
Finally, you are going to need cables:
1. Power feed line and ground should be #4 gage.
2. A Distribution block (#4 input, 2x#8 and 1x#4 output)
3. Three pairs of RCA lines from HU to amps
4. Inline fuse (80A should do) near battery
The best place I have found for wiring is: http://www.knukonceptz.com/
You can buy a basic 4 channel amp kit, ($36.00) then add 1 more pair of RCA's, a D block and a battery cable adapter... you are good to go.
The Shiva's in a 1.25 cf/chamber sealed sub enclosure will be fine and not require a subsonic filter. If you went ported, then a SS filter is recomended.
That's all the time I have for now....
Questions, Comments?
Swez
92_accord_ex on 09/26/2003 18:56:40
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Another thing I know nothing about is how much I should expect to pay for the INSTALLATION of this entire system. How much is reasonable if:
A) I bring in all my own equipment except for the box, which I buy at my local shop.
B) I buy the box and all wiring kit(s) at my local shop.
Finally, what exactly is the purpose of an AMP RACK? Is it just for looks? Does it make it easier to transfer the audio system to a new car (some day)? Or does it serve some other function(s) that I don’t know about?
Swez on 09/27/2003 07:57:52
Ttocs may be able to give you ahandle on install fees. But they do vary in different parts of the country. You may want to just call around to get prices and then make a choice.
In your case, a lot of install work is required... HU, speakers, a set of amps and all the wiring etc. You can get a feel for all this by dropping by a BB or CC and get an install quote from them. Personally, I would not let them install a battery in my watch, much less a full system... but at least you can get some price info from them as you shop around.
AMP RACK: Keeps all the wiring and amps in one location for ease of working on same. If planned well, looks great and can be a rea time saver if you wish to swap out amps or add other items like
(D-blocks, fuses, barrier strips for REM feed or sub output jacks) to the main rack. Very modular this way and all on one panel.
Swez
I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the setup that you recommended for the low-end of my start-up system (a JBL 600.1 and two 12" Adire Shiva Mark III subs). So, you're saying that my system will probably sound best in a smaller (1.25cft/sub) sealed box (still have good SPL, but GREAT SQ), and I won't need to buy subsonic filters for the amp, right? Like I said, I’m going to let my local shop handle my sub enclosure (but thanks for the specs you gave me for the Shivas!)
NOW I need help with the rest of the system...
I've got some ideas for the rest, but it my whole system would run me about $2000 - $3000 once I add everything to my car. I want to try to keep the budget with a max of $1000, if you can lead me to some good quality, but less pricy equipment, like you helped me out with the JBL and Shivas (again, PLEASE list the prices and Web sites for the components that you suggest – like you did last time – as that was VERY helpful).
Also, what size components would you recommend for a ’92 Accord which, according to Crutchfield.com, has 5” factory speakers in the front doors.
THINK Here’s what I’m thinking about:
CDA-7995 Alpine head unit ($300 on sale @ www.crutchfield.com)
605cs Infinity Reference 6.5” component system ($200 @ crutchfield)
(OR)
505cs Infinity Reference 5.5” component system ($180 @ crutchfield)
501X Rockford Fosgate Punch 65Wx4 amplifier for comps ($350 @ crutchfield)
6952i Infinity Reference 2-way 6”x9” speakers for rear deck ($120 @ crutchfield)
401S Rockford Fosgate Punch 100Wx2 amp for 6x9s ($250 @ crutchfield)
(OR)
351S Rockford Fosgate Power 90Wx2 amp for 6x9s ($250 @ crutchfield)
Like I said, I’ve got a brand-new battery and a brand-new alternator in my Accord, but with all of these amps (plus the JBL 600.1), I’m sure I’ll need some capacitators or whatever, but I know NOTHING about that kind of stuff. Please let me know what I’ll need in that area, with the items that you recommend.
As far as the Alpine/Infinity/Rockford equipment I mentioned, again, I’m looking for good some comparable, quality equipment at budget prices (just like the way you recommended the Shivas, as opposed to the JL Audio 12W0s that I was originally considering).
Another thing I know nothing about is how much I should expect to pay for the INSTALLATION of this entire system. How much is reasonable if:
A) I bring in all my own equipment except for the box, which I buy at my local shop.
B) I buy the box and all wiring kit(s) at my local shop.
Finally, what exactly is the purpose of an AMP RACK? Is it just for looks? Does it make it easier to transfer the audio system to a new car (some day)? Or does it serve some other function(s) that I don’t know about?
Once again, your advice / suggestions / warnings / comments are APPRECIATED!!!
Thanks!
USFLAG
Replies (7)
compvr15s on 09/25/2003 19:38:23
for the 6.5s take a look at these speakers. originally 309 on sale for 149. really good speakers just odd colored paint. http://thezeb.com/caraudio/specials_speakers.html
4 channel amp. us accoustics has an under-rated 4x65 watt amp for 129. will do your fronts and rears a good power boost.
you will not need 2 sets of component speakers. a good set of seperates in the front a a good set of 6x9s will slam with your sub system.try to stay away from buying off crutchfield, you will feel used afterwards lol. check e-bay for good sellers with good feedback, try ikesound.com thezeb.com nexxon.com.. you should be able to find all the equipment for 40-60 percent cheaper than crutchfield. installation is a cinch, will all the people on this forum you should be able to do it all yourself and save major money, most shops charge 50 dollars an hour. good luck, i prolly didnt answer all your questions but im sure others will pick up the ones i missed.
92_accord_ex on 09/25/2003 23:18:21
Thanks for the tips! By the way, I know I don't need 2 sets of components...that's why it says "OR" between 2 sets that I am trying to decide between: 5.5" vs. 6.5"
Same with the 2 similar priced amps for the 6x9s: RF Punch 100Wx2 vs. RF Power 90x2.
PLEASE KEEP SENDING REPLIES, EVERYONE!
THANKS!!!
GRIN
Buickman94 on 09/25/2003 23:33:06
I would stay away from the newer fosgate equiptment as they have really gone downhill recently, and there are better cheaper options. And like mentioned before, i would really stay away from buying crutchfield, the prices there are marked up so much its ridicules.
example:401S Rockford Fosgate Punch 100Wx2 amp for 6x9s ($250 @ crutchfield)
consider instead the USX2100 Amplifier - 100x2 @ 4ohm for 124.99 at
http://thezeb.com/caraudio/us_acoustics.html thats $125 saved right there.
dflock on 09/26/2003 08:48:17
Buickman or anyone else,
What has gone sour in RF? Why has it degraded? Just out of curiousity, I don't care for RF myself. I know their amps don't meet the same standards in power rating as they once did, but that could be the same for many companies in a sagging economy. I heard that the head engineer left and went to JL Audio, any truth in that either?! I would like some information on all this, I have a friend who wants to get an ALL RF system and time after time I've tried to tell him not to. I need some hard evidence to back my statement up.
Thanks,
Derek
Swez on 09/26/2003 07:57:48
OK, making progress and decisions are going to be a bit more complex.
A good pair of Comps (6.5" CDT CL-61a) as noted in an earlier post will be a great deal and choice for your front doors. The modification from 5/4" to 6.5" drivers is usally not difficult for a pro. A bit more challenging for a noobie.
http://thezeb.com/caraudio/specials_speakers.html $149.00/pr. 90 watts RMS... an excellent value buy
As for rear speaker stage, if you have 6x9's in the rear deck, go that route as these are mainly rear fill anyway. The trick here, is to cover them and make them sealed so that bass from the subs will not make the rear deck speakers go into spasms with lots of bass SPL. May need to take some careful depth measurments here to insure the 6x9's you choose will fit w/o excess depth issues to overcome. Forget using rear door and deck speakers... pick one or the other, but not both. This cuts out one more amp as well as speakers costs.
Nice HU you have choosen. Just check other sites like e-bay for better prices. Crutch is a great e-tailer and they service thier customers very well... but that extra touch is more expensive in many cases, but they are very good at what they do.
As for 4 channel amps, I agree that the USX/USB-4065 (4085) will do a terrific job powering your interior speakers. Zeb and Crutch carry both versions. (65x4/85x4 RMS respectively) US Acoustics is the brand.
Now, we need to get some nitty griity details from you... the JBL pulls 57A at max power, but nominal draw will be closer to 40A. The USX amps have 40/60A fuse ratings respectively, and will pull ~30/45A respectively. This means the ALT you use, will need to provide 85A or more current to keep your lights from dimming.
You can offset of of this current draw with a larger CCA rated battery. Something on the order of a +800 CCA rated battery. The larger batter is much more effective than a Cap and costs less in most cases as well. Figure ~$80.00 for a battery of this rating.
Finally, you are going to need cables:
1. Power feed line and ground should be #4 gage.
2. A Distribution block (#4 input, 2x#8 and 1x#4 output)
3. Three pairs of RCA lines from HU to amps
4. Inline fuse (80A should do) near battery
The best place I have found for wiring is: http://www.knukonceptz.com/
You can buy a basic 4 channel amp kit, ($36.00) then add 1 more pair of RCA's, a D block and a battery cable adapter... you are good to go.
The Shiva's in a 1.25 cf/chamber sealed sub enclosure will be fine and not require a subsonic filter. If you went ported, then a SS filter is recomended.
That's all the time I have for now....
Questions, Comments?
Swez
92_accord_ex on 09/26/2003 18:56:40
THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Another thing I know nothing about is how much I should expect to pay for the INSTALLATION of this entire system. How much is reasonable if:
A) I bring in all my own equipment except for the box, which I buy at my local shop.
B) I buy the box and all wiring kit(s) at my local shop.
Finally, what exactly is the purpose of an AMP RACK? Is it just for looks? Does it make it easier to transfer the audio system to a new car (some day)? Or does it serve some other function(s) that I don’t know about?
Swez on 09/27/2003 07:57:52
Ttocs may be able to give you ahandle on install fees. But they do vary in different parts of the country. You may want to just call around to get prices and then make a choice.
In your case, a lot of install work is required... HU, speakers, a set of amps and all the wiring etc. You can get a feel for all this by dropping by a BB or CC and get an install quote from them. Personally, I would not let them install a battery in my watch, much less a full system... but at least you can get some price info from them as you shop around.
AMP RACK: Keeps all the wiring and amps in one location for ease of working on same. If planned well, looks great and can be a rea time saver if you wish to swap out amps or add other items like
(D-blocks, fuses, barrier strips for REM feed or sub output jacks) to the main rack. Very modular this way and all on one panel.
Swez
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