I'm in woodshop (highschool) and I need a project, so i figure i'd build myself a new sub enclosure... i have a sealed box right now, but i want to build a vented enclosure...
i have two old JBL 12" subs that are each about 250w peak... with a 400w scosche amp pushin them.. in the box im using it sounds great, but lately ive noticed that the really low notes arent hitting as hard as they could if i were using a vented enclosure...
My question is, what kind of dimensions should i use? I believe the box im using right now is 14x14 1/2x30... so if anyone could help it'd be appreciated, i dont want to waste all my time building a box i can't use... thanks
Replies (12)
Victor on 09/22/2009 11:05:10
model number on subs and amp please...
ideal power = clean distortion free power matched to the power rating of the sub
technically at the ideal power given to the sub and with system Q of 0.707 ( flattest possible response over the frequency range ) specifications of a standard enclosure is give by the manufacturer ( in most cases )
now you need to understand here; that enclosure specifications would change according to the sub-woofer specs ( TS parameters ) and the power given to them, hence it becomes important for you to mention the sub & amp model ( and also how have you wired the subs to the amp ) so that we can give you a precise set of enclosure specifications required for your sub-amp combo...
If you want us to make an educated guess leaning on our experience ..
1 cu.ft per sub , port tuning 35Hz ... and you should be good.
Victor...
gotsomechange on 09/22/2009 22:01:49
yeah, i know i need to get the specs on the subs and amp, i just dont know where to start on the subs, i bought them sometime last year and they are probly about 9 years old...
ive been thinking about it, and it might be time to get a new stuff, so i think im going to buy a sub off one of my buddy's its a kenwood 12" 1200w (peak) so i might change my woodshop project to a single vented box.. so, sorry to waste your time, i'm gonne have some questions again when i get things rolling, but for now i'm just going to rethink everything...
I do have a 1000w (peak) sony xplode amp lying around, would that work with a 1200w sub? i know that everythings based on rms, the rms on the sub is 400w, and the rms on the amp is 165w each channel.. if i bridge it, will i still need more power? will it ruin my sub? i just wanna be sure before i make any decisions
i've had this amp hooked up to these subs in his car before, and it sounded alright, but it was only for a short period of time so i dont know if it would hurt anything over a longer period of time..
Victor on 09/23/2009 01:24:45
nothing really works around here without specific model numbers...
gotsomechange on 09/23/2009 10:08:47
New amp: XM1652 sony xplod 1000w. New sub: KFC W3011 kenwod 12" 1200w...
Victor on 09/23/2009 23:35:11
Specs on amp
# 165W x 2, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.04% THD + N, at 4 Ohms
# 200W x 2, 20 - 20kHz, @ 0.15% THD + N, at 2 Ohms
# 400W x 1, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.1% THD + N, at 4 Ohms
Specs on sub
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113W3011/Kenwood-KFC-W3011.html?tp=111&tab=features_and_specs
this sub would be a good match to the amp in bridged mode..
although I could not nail the status on SSF for this amp... it is always recommended to use a subsonic filter to filter out frequencies below the port tuning while installing a ported enclosure...
here you go... design for a 1.5 cu.ft enclosure tuned to 32Hz...
http://www.box.net/shared/z5p6cne9jt
hope it helps..
Victor...
PS: do you already have this amp and sub ? what is your budget like... may be we could suggest you other sub-amp combo's as well...
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 10:20:15
i already own the amp, i have not purchased the sub, my budget is probably around $80 to $100... depending on whether or not i sell what i have installed now.. the reason i was going with the kenwood sub was because i was buying it from a friend for about $50..
Victor on 09/24/2009 15:22:35
good deal....
i'd suggest if the sub is in proper condition you should go ahead...
i mean for a $100 + wood work.. that would be definitely a good install with regards to price/performance ratio...
If installed well, it could last for a few years too...
Victor...
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 21:31:52
awesome... i'll start drawing out the plans tonight and do my best.. i do have a few friends who know what they're doing when it comes to installs, so if i come across a problem while building it i can text them and i think we can get it done.. i'll be sure to let ya know how it turns out.. thanks a bunch.
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 21:46:56
ok, one last question, would it make a big difference if i used plywood instead of particle board? my teacher doesnt want to order particle board, but thats all my friends and i have ever used.. he suggested plywood, but i dont know if that would effect anything...
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 21:47:04
ok, one last question, would it make a big difference if i used plywood instead of particle board? my teacher doesnt want to order particle board, but thats all my friends and i have ever used.. he suggested plywood, but i dont know if that would effect anything...
Victor on 09/25/2009 04:34:52
13 ply Baltic Birch .... or 3/4" MDF ...
ask him which one he wants to order ???
............and he'll order the MDF ... GRIN
MDF would cost him half the price...
swez on 09/25/2009 09:40:08
Agreed!
Baltic Birch is a great box and furniture grade material, but very expensive too. The 3/4" MDF is ideal for mobile sub boxes and a lt cheaper then Baltic Birch. It's easy to cut, shape, glue and samd out imperfections later.
Regular plywood is not a good choice as there are many voids in the glueing process that can lead to rattles and other undesirable things after the box is fabricated. I too recommend MDF for best price and overall performance as well.
Kenwood sub specs, sealed and ported:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/113/113W2511.PDF
Swez
i have two old JBL 12" subs that are each about 250w peak... with a 400w scosche amp pushin them.. in the box im using it sounds great, but lately ive noticed that the really low notes arent hitting as hard as they could if i were using a vented enclosure...
My question is, what kind of dimensions should i use? I believe the box im using right now is 14x14 1/2x30... so if anyone could help it'd be appreciated, i dont want to waste all my time building a box i can't use... thanks
Replies (12)
Victor on 09/22/2009 11:05:10
model number on subs and amp please...
ideal power = clean distortion free power matched to the power rating of the sub
technically at the ideal power given to the sub and with system Q of 0.707 ( flattest possible response over the frequency range ) specifications of a standard enclosure is give by the manufacturer ( in most cases )
now you need to understand here; that enclosure specifications would change according to the sub-woofer specs ( TS parameters ) and the power given to them, hence it becomes important for you to mention the sub & amp model ( and also how have you wired the subs to the amp ) so that we can give you a precise set of enclosure specifications required for your sub-amp combo...
If you want us to make an educated guess leaning on our experience ..
1 cu.ft per sub , port tuning 35Hz ... and you should be good.
Victor...
gotsomechange on 09/22/2009 22:01:49
yeah, i know i need to get the specs on the subs and amp, i just dont know where to start on the subs, i bought them sometime last year and they are probly about 9 years old...
ive been thinking about it, and it might be time to get a new stuff, so i think im going to buy a sub off one of my buddy's its a kenwood 12" 1200w (peak) so i might change my woodshop project to a single vented box.. so, sorry to waste your time, i'm gonne have some questions again when i get things rolling, but for now i'm just going to rethink everything...
I do have a 1000w (peak) sony xplode amp lying around, would that work with a 1200w sub? i know that everythings based on rms, the rms on the sub is 400w, and the rms on the amp is 165w each channel.. if i bridge it, will i still need more power? will it ruin my sub? i just wanna be sure before i make any decisions
i've had this amp hooked up to these subs in his car before, and it sounded alright, but it was only for a short period of time so i dont know if it would hurt anything over a longer period of time..
Victor on 09/23/2009 01:24:45
nothing really works around here without specific model numbers...
gotsomechange on 09/23/2009 10:08:47
New amp: XM1652 sony xplod 1000w. New sub: KFC W3011 kenwod 12" 1200w...
Victor on 09/23/2009 23:35:11
Specs on amp
# 165W x 2, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.04% THD + N, at 4 Ohms
# 200W x 2, 20 - 20kHz, @ 0.15% THD + N, at 2 Ohms
# 400W x 1, 20Hz - 20kHz, @ 0.1% THD + N, at 4 Ohms
Specs on sub
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113W3011/Kenwood-KFC-W3011.html?tp=111&tab=features_and_specs
this sub would be a good match to the amp in bridged mode..
although I could not nail the status on SSF for this amp... it is always recommended to use a subsonic filter to filter out frequencies below the port tuning while installing a ported enclosure...
here you go... design for a 1.5 cu.ft enclosure tuned to 32Hz...
http://www.box.net/shared/z5p6cne9jt
hope it helps..
Victor...
PS: do you already have this amp and sub ? what is your budget like... may be we could suggest you other sub-amp combo's as well...
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 10:20:15
i already own the amp, i have not purchased the sub, my budget is probably around $80 to $100... depending on whether or not i sell what i have installed now.. the reason i was going with the kenwood sub was because i was buying it from a friend for about $50..
Victor on 09/24/2009 15:22:35
good deal....
i'd suggest if the sub is in proper condition you should go ahead...
i mean for a $100 + wood work.. that would be definitely a good install with regards to price/performance ratio...
If installed well, it could last for a few years too...
Victor...
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 21:31:52
awesome... i'll start drawing out the plans tonight and do my best.. i do have a few friends who know what they're doing when it comes to installs, so if i come across a problem while building it i can text them and i think we can get it done.. i'll be sure to let ya know how it turns out.. thanks a bunch.
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 21:46:56
ok, one last question, would it make a big difference if i used plywood instead of particle board? my teacher doesnt want to order particle board, but thats all my friends and i have ever used.. he suggested plywood, but i dont know if that would effect anything...
gotsomechange on 09/24/2009 21:47:04
ok, one last question, would it make a big difference if i used plywood instead of particle board? my teacher doesnt want to order particle board, but thats all my friends and i have ever used.. he suggested plywood, but i dont know if that would effect anything...
Victor on 09/25/2009 04:34:52
13 ply Baltic Birch .... or 3/4" MDF ...
ask him which one he wants to order ???
............and he'll order the MDF ... GRIN
MDF would cost him half the price...
swez on 09/25/2009 09:40:08
Agreed!
Baltic Birch is a great box and furniture grade material, but very expensive too. The 3/4" MDF is ideal for mobile sub boxes and a lt cheaper then Baltic Birch. It's easy to cut, shape, glue and samd out imperfections later.
Regular plywood is not a good choice as there are many voids in the glueing process that can lead to rattles and other undesirable things after the box is fabricated. I too recommend MDF for best price and overall performance as well.
Kenwood sub specs, sealed and ported:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/113/113W2511.PDF
Swez
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