hey all!
i have been talking to many of you for awhile now and i always start with the same "thanks for all your help thus far", so thank you SMILE
ok now that i have my amp/subs/wires and and everything else that i believe i need, its on to the install. a friend of mine that has install before and is fairly comfortable doing it, but you all at one point in time have stated that this is one of the most important parts so i dont want to lose it here.
i have two JBL P1022's, dual 10" 1.5 cubic ft box, an Alpine MRP-M1000, a Stinger SHK201 kit, a Stinger SPD8201 fuse block, a few Stinger SPT8101's, a Stinger SHD20 dist block, a PAC LC1 knob, and a decent amount of 4 AWG wiring...
any kind of direction you can give me for the installation process will be greatly appreciated! also once installed im looking for help with where my settings should be.
thanks again for all the help. without your knowledge i would be lost GRIN
Replies (14)
swez on 09/9/2009 10:15:05
Mind if I get back to you in a day or so on this one?
Am neck deep at work right now and have a few days off soon. Then I can review all your details and help ya pull it together in simple, methodical steps.
Swez
PS Are you still planning to use the RF 2 channel amp for mid/highs?
rjpdos on 09/9/2009 10:30:53
No problem at all...I am hoping to install sometime this weekend, hopefully you will be able input before then.
work always comes before pleasure :)
yes i am still planning on using the RF 2 channel for mids/highs but not in this install. that will be done hopefully in the near future.
swez on 09/9/2009 22:31:48
Good... if you plan to use the RF amp in this install, a #4 gage line for the Alpine and RF amp will not be enough. The Alpine amp alone, will tax a #4 power line to its max.
If you have enough #4 wire on hand, each amp will benefit from #4 wire to each amp. You will also need adequate lengths of #4 wire to do the Big 3 wiring upgrade under the hood as well.
Oh, does this F-150 have the trailer towing package option? (140-160A ALT? If yes, this will make the install less hassle and able to handle all but extreme bass hits.
Finally, do you think you can find a buyer for the RF 2 channel amp and buy a decent 4 channel amp in it's place? That RF series amp is very strong and great for powering subs. Think about that option if you want 4 channels of outboard amping to whatever speakers are selected.
Swez
SQLThump on 09/10/2009 01:38:32
Alright, time go in and do the job. Very nice selection on the stinger gear, wise selection.... now here comes the fun part....
If your truck is an auto... and I hope it is, you can easily drill through the plate that covers the hole where a clutch pedal would have gone. Otherwise, find a safe place to drill a large size hole big enough for the provided grommet your mighty 0AWG will run through.
Try to keep your use of the 0AWG as minimal as possible, as you will need as much leftovers as possible to run cables under the hood.... if it was my truck I would configure the system with the amps mounted under the rear seats if possible, if not mount them to the rear wall.
Keep your grounds as short as possible, this will help the power tranfer run more effectively..
Do the big 3! No exceptions! Try to save as much 0 as possible, I would reccomend running the cable on the same side as the battery. Split off the cable to your 4AWG under the back seat. Save yourself time as well as energy by running the cables for your 2 channel now... just leave them disconnected and then hook them up when ready to rock the new amp. I'm passin out now... ill get back ya tommorrow...
swez on 09/10/2009 18:21:01
Yep, you have the proper hardware for the power and grounding systems phase of the install. Nice matches and good products too.
The next step will be your Big 3 wiring upgrades using #4 wires along with the existing stock lines. This will help the Bass Engine side of the install a good deal. The PAC LC-1 will also give you on the fly control over bass from the dash mounting knob. I wonder why they used dual RCA pairs in this model???
Swez
rjpdos on 09/10/2009 18:28:57
Ok well install is set for saturday morning, so any savy veteran tips before then would be awesome!
As for selling the RF i would rather not...but if thats what needs to be done i can tackle that at a later date.
I do believe i have the trailer package on my truck so that should help.
Wish me luck! GRIN
swez on 09/10/2009 19:53:16
One tip for sure... make certain your power lines run on one side of the cabin and signal line RCA's are installed on the opposite side of the cabin. This truck has generous rail space for both on either side of the cabin.
Luck? Yes we wish you luck in the progress part, (A smooth install) but skill and attention to details are not about luck. They are outcomes of skill and executing a well planned process as we have outlined before.
Finally, you can run all lines without capping them in the wiring raceways initially. Once that proves sucessful, (No ground loop noise) tidy things up with care and put your carpet runners back in place after it's noise free and working as planned.
Go for it, CLAP
Swez
rjpdos on 09/11/2009 09:17:37
real quick...
i may be stupid by asking this but, is there a right spot for my settings to be at or is it to be adjusted upon listening?
swez on 09/11/2009 10:18:05
Yes, it's good to start up the system at the HU with tone controls set to flat response. (No cuts, no boost) That will be tweaked later.
As for the amp, set the amp gain to about 3.0 volts and the LPF at 80 Hz. The Bass Boost can be set at 0 to +3dB if you like.
Once the system is installed and all is working properly, then you can begin tweaking tone controls and adjusting the amp gain settings for the subs.
Finally, the sub are brand new and stiff. It will take several hours of moderate use to loosen them up. As they break in, the bass will get deeper and stronger over a few days of listening.
Swez
rjpdos on 09/11/2009 10:56:20
how long is the usual break in period...?
i dont want to go blowing my load to early (ha sorry no pun intended) :)
swez on 09/11/2009 12:56:15
It depends on the subs, but usually 8-10 hours will do the job at ~50% of full power will break them in nice. You can kick up the power to ~75% for 5-10 minute intervals after 3-4 hours at 50% power. (The PAC LC-1 is the right tool for this job)
It's like breaking in a new engine. It takes time for things to lossen up gradually. You'll likely notice tight and punchy bass for the initial 5 hours or so and then the deep lows will come into the game as the mechanicals seat and the suspension system begins to flex and stretch. A lot depends on the music you prefer.
Rap and Hip Hop have very strong/deep bass notes that are "juiced up" several dB more than Rock or other music. The more one listens to Rap/HH, the faster the subs will break in. (Generally not a problem unless you hear cone whop or lead in wire slap) JBL subs are so well designed, this should not be an issue.
Swez SMILE
PS Blow your load? Hehe... save that for later when it counts most.
Is your wife/gf feeling a bit left out while you are in the process of doing this project? If yes, pay extra attention to her when possible or she'll feel abandonded and jealous about the whole thing. Better still, ask her to help and be a part of the process so she can see how much effort it takes to get a system up and running.
If you are free & single, enjoy the process with your buddy and just take your time. GRIN
SQLThump on 09/11/2009 18:21:54
If you are free and single all the better...... Enjoy it with a very effective gofer of a homie, who will remember where the heck you set that screwdriver, pack o' connectors or tape GRIN.... do it with a 6 pack too....
Swez mentioned running 4AWG for your big 3, this would be ok, but considering it will only take 10% more effort, the results will be much better, plus you already have the cable to do it with......
As for adjusting the gain, first see if your head unit has a HPF (high pass filter).... use this to block out any bass that will make your stock paper speakers muddy up and sound nasty....
I personally dial in EVERY system with Crunk Juice by Lil' Jon because it has a variety of songs that will help you make every type of bass sound good... plenty of super lows, super fast bass hits, and a cut covered over a slayer track that demonstrates rock bass really well.... if you dont have this CD by all means get it....
Do your initial dial in like this....
1.. make sure that your EQ settings, bass mid and treble, fader and balance are all at -0- or flat..... this will help us identify when our deck will distort at a certain volume...
2. with all the doors open, turn up the stereo up until audible distortion is noted, this part can be done without the subs at this point, Use a the most bass dynamic cd that still has good mids and high....Now turn it down just to the point that the distortion stops. Distortion can be very difficult to identify up close.. so step 10 to 20 feet behind the car, and listen closely that it all sounds as smooth and clear as possible, and not shrill and harsh....
you are kinda at the mercy of your stock speakers here....
3. At this volume, crank up the sub out on the deck to full, the su amps to about 1/4 of your amps capacity and leave it hear for a few days to a week for a good break in.....agian step back and take note of audible distortion and if it is present turn down the deck til its gone...
4. After this time, now we have fun... Turn up your sub out on your deck, and the volume on the Pac Lc-1 to full..... this will not affect distorton at all, now we just focus on the amp... Turn up the amp until distortion is evident, and then dial back till it as barely down...
After all these steps, step back note distortion, and turn down the amp if present.... This should be done at the volume we checked that was lower than the distortion on the deck... Pretty much what will now be your full volume.. You want it as loud as possible at this point.....
A. Now whip out your test CD, and get a track that hits hard and low, with long extended tones.... I reccommend Crunk Juice on the CD of the same name.....
B. Now something with a lot of really fast hard hits.... Use Da Blow of the reccommended test cd or another favorite is Plane Crash by Andre Nickatina... Make sure it is clearing the super fast passages sounding like just that, not one muddy tone.... do turn the amp up and down here to note the difference between super fast and muddy, with a sealed box like you have you will have no real problem telling....
C. Now something with a real complicated bass line and fast drum hits.... I would use Dont **** wit me on Crunk juice, or just about any older Korn song, here.... Make sure it is articulating the difference between the different tones on the bass guitar, while still providing enough headroom to knock out the kick drum.....
At this point, you should now have successfully dialed in your system, provided you followed all the steps provided and checked for distortion every time.....
Use your sub out control and the Lc-1 to control the sounds form there.......
Let us know if we can help more....
swez on 09/11/2009 23:33:38
Great follow up Thumper... the idea of opening the doors and stepping back as we dial up the power will help one hear any major distortion in all speakers in the system. (We cannot hear them inside the vehicle very well once the SPL levels top +110dB) As we move away from the vehicle, the SLP levels drop with distance and we can hear distortion much better and correct that as they crop up.
Swez
rjpdos on 09/15/2009 22:10:46
well the install had a few hick ups but overall went well. the set up so far sounds great and im about 6 hours in to the break in!
the next step will be the speakers, additonal battery, and attaching my two channel RF amp. i will definitely be coming to you guys for help then.
but for now thank you so much i owe my set up to you guys!
thanks again!!!
i have been talking to many of you for awhile now and i always start with the same "thanks for all your help thus far", so thank you SMILE
ok now that i have my amp/subs/wires and and everything else that i believe i need, its on to the install. a friend of mine that has install before and is fairly comfortable doing it, but you all at one point in time have stated that this is one of the most important parts so i dont want to lose it here.
i have two JBL P1022's, dual 10" 1.5 cubic ft box, an Alpine MRP-M1000, a Stinger SHK201 kit, a Stinger SPD8201 fuse block, a few Stinger SPT8101's, a Stinger SHD20 dist block, a PAC LC1 knob, and a decent amount of 4 AWG wiring...
any kind of direction you can give me for the installation process will be greatly appreciated! also once installed im looking for help with where my settings should be.
thanks again for all the help. without your knowledge i would be lost GRIN
Replies (14)
swez on 09/9/2009 10:15:05
Mind if I get back to you in a day or so on this one?
Am neck deep at work right now and have a few days off soon. Then I can review all your details and help ya pull it together in simple, methodical steps.
Swez
PS Are you still planning to use the RF 2 channel amp for mid/highs?
rjpdos on 09/9/2009 10:30:53
No problem at all...I am hoping to install sometime this weekend, hopefully you will be able input before then.
work always comes before pleasure :)
yes i am still planning on using the RF 2 channel for mids/highs but not in this install. that will be done hopefully in the near future.
swez on 09/9/2009 22:31:48
Good... if you plan to use the RF amp in this install, a #4 gage line for the Alpine and RF amp will not be enough. The Alpine amp alone, will tax a #4 power line to its max.
If you have enough #4 wire on hand, each amp will benefit from #4 wire to each amp. You will also need adequate lengths of #4 wire to do the Big 3 wiring upgrade under the hood as well.
Oh, does this F-150 have the trailer towing package option? (140-160A ALT? If yes, this will make the install less hassle and able to handle all but extreme bass hits.
Finally, do you think you can find a buyer for the RF 2 channel amp and buy a decent 4 channel amp in it's place? That RF series amp is very strong and great for powering subs. Think about that option if you want 4 channels of outboard amping to whatever speakers are selected.
Swez
SQLThump on 09/10/2009 01:38:32
Alright, time go in and do the job. Very nice selection on the stinger gear, wise selection.... now here comes the fun part....
If your truck is an auto... and I hope it is, you can easily drill through the plate that covers the hole where a clutch pedal would have gone. Otherwise, find a safe place to drill a large size hole big enough for the provided grommet your mighty 0AWG will run through.
Try to keep your use of the 0AWG as minimal as possible, as you will need as much leftovers as possible to run cables under the hood.... if it was my truck I would configure the system with the amps mounted under the rear seats if possible, if not mount them to the rear wall.
Keep your grounds as short as possible, this will help the power tranfer run more effectively..
Do the big 3! No exceptions! Try to save as much 0 as possible, I would reccomend running the cable on the same side as the battery. Split off the cable to your 4AWG under the back seat. Save yourself time as well as energy by running the cables for your 2 channel now... just leave them disconnected and then hook them up when ready to rock the new amp. I'm passin out now... ill get back ya tommorrow...
swez on 09/10/2009 18:21:01
Yep, you have the proper hardware for the power and grounding systems phase of the install. Nice matches and good products too.
The next step will be your Big 3 wiring upgrades using #4 wires along with the existing stock lines. This will help the Bass Engine side of the install a good deal. The PAC LC-1 will also give you on the fly control over bass from the dash mounting knob. I wonder why they used dual RCA pairs in this model???
Swez
rjpdos on 09/10/2009 18:28:57
Ok well install is set for saturday morning, so any savy veteran tips before then would be awesome!
As for selling the RF i would rather not...but if thats what needs to be done i can tackle that at a later date.
I do believe i have the trailer package on my truck so that should help.
Wish me luck! GRIN
swez on 09/10/2009 19:53:16
One tip for sure... make certain your power lines run on one side of the cabin and signal line RCA's are installed on the opposite side of the cabin. This truck has generous rail space for both on either side of the cabin.
Luck? Yes we wish you luck in the progress part, (A smooth install) but skill and attention to details are not about luck. They are outcomes of skill and executing a well planned process as we have outlined before.
Finally, you can run all lines without capping them in the wiring raceways initially. Once that proves sucessful, (No ground loop noise) tidy things up with care and put your carpet runners back in place after it's noise free and working as planned.
Go for it, CLAP
Swez
rjpdos on 09/11/2009 09:17:37
real quick...
i may be stupid by asking this but, is there a right spot for my settings to be at or is it to be adjusted upon listening?
swez on 09/11/2009 10:18:05
Yes, it's good to start up the system at the HU with tone controls set to flat response. (No cuts, no boost) That will be tweaked later.
As for the amp, set the amp gain to about 3.0 volts and the LPF at 80 Hz. The Bass Boost can be set at 0 to +3dB if you like.
Once the system is installed and all is working properly, then you can begin tweaking tone controls and adjusting the amp gain settings for the subs.
Finally, the sub are brand new and stiff. It will take several hours of moderate use to loosen them up. As they break in, the bass will get deeper and stronger over a few days of listening.
Swez
rjpdos on 09/11/2009 10:56:20
how long is the usual break in period...?
i dont want to go blowing my load to early (ha sorry no pun intended) :)
swez on 09/11/2009 12:56:15
It depends on the subs, but usually 8-10 hours will do the job at ~50% of full power will break them in nice. You can kick up the power to ~75% for 5-10 minute intervals after 3-4 hours at 50% power. (The PAC LC-1 is the right tool for this job)
It's like breaking in a new engine. It takes time for things to lossen up gradually. You'll likely notice tight and punchy bass for the initial 5 hours or so and then the deep lows will come into the game as the mechanicals seat and the suspension system begins to flex and stretch. A lot depends on the music you prefer.
Rap and Hip Hop have very strong/deep bass notes that are "juiced up" several dB more than Rock or other music. The more one listens to Rap/HH, the faster the subs will break in. (Generally not a problem unless you hear cone whop or lead in wire slap) JBL subs are so well designed, this should not be an issue.
Swez SMILE
PS Blow your load? Hehe... save that for later when it counts most.
Is your wife/gf feeling a bit left out while you are in the process of doing this project? If yes, pay extra attention to her when possible or she'll feel abandonded and jealous about the whole thing. Better still, ask her to help and be a part of the process so she can see how much effort it takes to get a system up and running.
If you are free & single, enjoy the process with your buddy and just take your time. GRIN
SQLThump on 09/11/2009 18:21:54
If you are free and single all the better...... Enjoy it with a very effective gofer of a homie, who will remember where the heck you set that screwdriver, pack o' connectors or tape GRIN.... do it with a 6 pack too....
Swez mentioned running 4AWG for your big 3, this would be ok, but considering it will only take 10% more effort, the results will be much better, plus you already have the cable to do it with......
As for adjusting the gain, first see if your head unit has a HPF (high pass filter).... use this to block out any bass that will make your stock paper speakers muddy up and sound nasty....
I personally dial in EVERY system with Crunk Juice by Lil' Jon because it has a variety of songs that will help you make every type of bass sound good... plenty of super lows, super fast bass hits, and a cut covered over a slayer track that demonstrates rock bass really well.... if you dont have this CD by all means get it....
Do your initial dial in like this....
1.. make sure that your EQ settings, bass mid and treble, fader and balance are all at -0- or flat..... this will help us identify when our deck will distort at a certain volume...
2. with all the doors open, turn up the stereo up until audible distortion is noted, this part can be done without the subs at this point, Use a the most bass dynamic cd that still has good mids and high....Now turn it down just to the point that the distortion stops. Distortion can be very difficult to identify up close.. so step 10 to 20 feet behind the car, and listen closely that it all sounds as smooth and clear as possible, and not shrill and harsh....
you are kinda at the mercy of your stock speakers here....
3. At this volume, crank up the sub out on the deck to full, the su amps to about 1/4 of your amps capacity and leave it hear for a few days to a week for a good break in.....agian step back and take note of audible distortion and if it is present turn down the deck til its gone...
4. After this time, now we have fun... Turn up your sub out on your deck, and the volume on the Pac Lc-1 to full..... this will not affect distorton at all, now we just focus on the amp... Turn up the amp until distortion is evident, and then dial back till it as barely down...
After all these steps, step back note distortion, and turn down the amp if present.... This should be done at the volume we checked that was lower than the distortion on the deck... Pretty much what will now be your full volume.. You want it as loud as possible at this point.....
A. Now whip out your test CD, and get a track that hits hard and low, with long extended tones.... I reccommend Crunk Juice on the CD of the same name.....
B. Now something with a lot of really fast hard hits.... Use Da Blow of the reccommended test cd or another favorite is Plane Crash by Andre Nickatina... Make sure it is clearing the super fast passages sounding like just that, not one muddy tone.... do turn the amp up and down here to note the difference between super fast and muddy, with a sealed box like you have you will have no real problem telling....
C. Now something with a real complicated bass line and fast drum hits.... I would use Dont **** wit me on Crunk juice, or just about any older Korn song, here.... Make sure it is articulating the difference between the different tones on the bass guitar, while still providing enough headroom to knock out the kick drum.....
At this point, you should now have successfully dialed in your system, provided you followed all the steps provided and checked for distortion every time.....
Use your sub out control and the Lc-1 to control the sounds form there.......
Let us know if we can help more....
swez on 09/11/2009 23:33:38
Great follow up Thumper... the idea of opening the doors and stepping back as we dial up the power will help one hear any major distortion in all speakers in the system. (We cannot hear them inside the vehicle very well once the SPL levels top +110dB) As we move away from the vehicle, the SLP levels drop with distance and we can hear distortion much better and correct that as they crop up.
Swez
rjpdos on 09/15/2009 22:10:46
well the install had a few hick ups but overall went well. the set up so far sounds great and im about 6 hours in to the break in!
the next step will be the speakers, additonal battery, and attaching my two channel RF amp. i will definitely be coming to you guys for help then.
but for now thank you so much i owe my set up to you guys!
thanks again!!!
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