is it possible to have a 2 channel amp power 4 speakers?
Replies (28)
swez on 07/30/2009 12:19:01
Yes, but if they are rear and front channels, you will lose the fade control feature.
Also, powering the front speakers off the amp is desirable and running the rears off the HU speaker outs will often work out well.
Swez
rjpdos on 07/30/2009 13:17:11
my HU only puts out 30 watts per and i have an older 2 channel amp that puts out 175 watts per...what do you suggest i do?
swez on 07/30/2009 13:56:48
What is make and model # of the amp you have now?
It may be useful to power a sub when bridged MONO. Knowing more about the amp would be helpful.
Most Aftermarket HU's are rated between 15-22 watts RMS per channel. If high efficiency speakers are used, this is adequate for low powered systems. But, to get real clean and loud system performance, 50 watts RMS per channel is a big step up. (+6 to +8 dB more sound is a lot in a car system)
Swez
rjpdos on 07/30/2009 14:53:57
i have a 5 year old rockford fosgate amp that i believe is a 2 channel (2x175) but im not sure when i got my truck it was already installed so i cant be certain what it is...the receipt was still in the glove compartment but all it said was the same thing so im not sure where i stand
swez on 07/30/2009 15:58:13
What are the fuse values used in this amp? That will help some too.
Is this the "George Foreman" griller style amp? (Looks like a toaster or griller ?) SMILE
Swez
rjpdos on 07/30/2009 15:59:53
haha yes its the one that looks like a "george foreman"
and i have no idea what the fuse values FROWN
swez on 07/30/2009 18:41:07
Ahh, those were actually pretty good amps from RF and tended to be rated considerably lower on specs than what it is really able to produce.
I really need the model # for find out how to advise you. They made several versions in that chassis style back in 03-06 and w/o the P/N or fusing details, I can't say for certain what you really have here power wise and how to get the most from it.
Older Punch series???
Swez
Victor on 07/31/2009 02:36:21
Can you measure the amp, and note down its external dimensions ?
and also post a picture if possible...
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 10:18:22
i will do my best to acquire the information you guys have asked for but its is under the seat of my car which is hard to view unless i remove the seat. but i will try to get the information back to you asap
swez on 08/3/2009 11:16:06
Try a mirror on a stick and a flashlight.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 11:31:17
haha will do...i am currently at work so this will have to wait till later this afternoon but i will see what i can rig up to get the necessary information...
so all you really need in the model number?
swez on 08/3/2009 12:40:14
Yeah, we kinda do in this case as RF made so many amps that look the same, but have different power ratings and features in this series. In order to know how best to use this amp and get the most from it, the model number will verify what we are not sure of now.
Swez
PS What is this amp powering now? (Sub(s) or speakers?)
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 17:39:52
it is powering two blown 10" alpine type r's
swez on 08/3/2009 18:46:53
Okay, powering subs off this amp. Did the Type R's sound pretty strong before they blew a gasket? And, Which version type R's do you have now? (2+2 or 4+4 DVC's?) That will help a bit with the model # of this RF amp.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 22:22:01
they sounded pretty good originally but i cant be totally sure since this was not my set up...
the two type R's are DVC 2-ohm and all i can get off the amp is 451s power series...
i hope this helps...
thanks again guys
swez on 08/4/2009 08:08:58
This helps a lot. The "Power 451s" is rated at 115 x 2 Wrms @ 4 ohms per channel and 225 x 2 @ 2 ohms per channel and when bridged to a 4 ohm load, you'll get 450 Wrms @ 4 ohms.
Here, a single 4 ohm sub, (a 2+2 DVC in series) that can handle ~500 Wrms is recommended or a pair of 4+4 DVC's, (Series/Parallel wiring for 4 ohms) will do the job.
Not sure how your present subs are wired to this amp, but it's fortunate you have not damaged the amp at this point.
Do you know how these subs are wired to this amp?
Swez
rjpdos on 08/4/2009 09:18:33
no idea how the subs are wired....but since they are done i have been planning to update my entire system....
i have 4 5x7 eclipse point source speakers (at least one of which i believe is blown) running off my pioneer DEHP650 head unit.
all that i was hoping that would carry over would be my HU and my existing amp...is there any way i could get my RF amp to power 4 new speakers?
swez on 08/4/2009 17:55:06
Yes, the speakers would have to be 4 ohms each, or higher and 2 pairs in parallel will net a 2 ohm load per channel and save for this amp. You won't have fade control this way, but installing some load resistors or rheostats to the rear speakers would help dial them down as needed.
This RF amp is really best suited for sub use to get the most from it. If it's rated at 450 Wrms, but it will likely deliver over 500 Wrms when bridged.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/4/2009 18:03:06
Thanks
thats what i figured about the amp but i plan upgrading to subs that would require a more powerful amp, so i was hoping that i could still get some use out of my older amp.
any suggestion on speakers that i could get that would work when wired to my existing RF amp?
swez on 08/4/2009 19:02:47
Yes, I'm very pleased with the Infinity Ref ahd Kappa series speakers available. They can take high wattage, put out great sound and love a strong amp to power them.
They come in 2 & 4 ohm models, Components for the front doors and coaxials for the rear. They use quality parts, very well built motors and cones for above average MidBass and great tweeters in silk or edge-driven versions for high intensity sound.
They also come in various common sizes that will fit most vehicles with minimal mounting work for ovals or rounds.
Just remember, the RF amp pulls a good deal of current at high SPL levels and you'll need a strong bass engine to fill in the low. (500 - 1000 watts RMS from the sub amp will tax the charging system and some upgrades may be needed to go that route in the future.
We know the drill and can guide you through each step as needed.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/4/2009 21:55:16
swez
the plan was to do the subs first since my speakers are still fairly decent. i would just hold on to the amp until i get the speakers. since i was planning on getting two JBL P1024's and an alpine MRP M-1000 to power them.
then once i get that all set up i will get some infinity speakers to round out my system.
how does this sound?
swez on 08/5/2009 07:04:28
Good amp and good subs, but they do not match up properly together. You'll need a pair of 2+2 DVC's to get the net 2-ohm load that is perfect for this amp. (JBL 1022 is the correct product here)
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=P1022&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA&cat=SUB&ser=POS
Swez
rjpdos on 08/5/2009 09:36:01
so a pair of JBL P1022's will have a net 2 ohm load matched with an Alpine MRP M-1000 which will provide how much wattage to each sub?
swez on 08/5/2009 17:48:09
Tha Alpine will deliver up to 500 Wrms per sub. If you go sealed with the JBL subs, they cnhandle the extra power with ease. (Each sub has its own chamber)
In the meantime, get the JBL subs and if you use the RF amp mentioned earlier, wire one sub only for a 4 ohm load and let the other sub remain "unpowered" until the Alpine amp comes in. You'll have good bass this way and not risk damage to the RF amp.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/6/2009 09:16:23
Thanks swez!
so with the M-1000 i will only be putting 500 watts to each sub according to your last post...so am i correct in saying that if i have the M-500 i would only be getting 250 to each sub? i am just trying to understand how this all translates...
as for hooking the RF up, i plan on getting the JBL's and the Alpine within the same timeframe so i would not bother with hooking one one up the the RF...
swez on 08/6/2009 19:52:02
Yes, you can use the M500 and each sub gets about 250 WRMS each. If you used the M1000, the subs would be about +6dB more bass power, but a larger drain on your electricals.
A +6dB bump is not a big SPL jump and if you wanted to keep costs and electrical upgrade to a minimum, a single JBL, 4+4 DVC would be my choice. Port/vented would be most efficicient and very cost effective too. (More bang for your buck)
If it were my install, I'd use the present RF amp you have and a single ported 12" JBL 2+2 sub.
As for the 4 Mid/Highs, figure out which speakers you's like and use a good 4-channel amp to power whatever speakers you choose.
Comments?
Swez
Victor on 08/7/2009 15:32:29
Try exploring products from the following..
Focal audio, Rainbow audio, dynaudio, diamond audio,
Morel, Peerless, Scanspeak ....
Victor...
swez on 08/9/2009 21:07:01
Yeah... right!
Those are all great brands and none are cheap. However, Parts Express.com does carry a wide varietyod replacement drivers in all but the Rainbow brand. With some clever design work and good shopping habits, you can get the quality of these brands well under retail cost.
Swez
Replies (28)
swez on 07/30/2009 12:19:01
Yes, but if they are rear and front channels, you will lose the fade control feature.
Also, powering the front speakers off the amp is desirable and running the rears off the HU speaker outs will often work out well.
Swez
rjpdos on 07/30/2009 13:17:11
my HU only puts out 30 watts per and i have an older 2 channel amp that puts out 175 watts per...what do you suggest i do?
swez on 07/30/2009 13:56:48
What is make and model # of the amp you have now?
It may be useful to power a sub when bridged MONO. Knowing more about the amp would be helpful.
Most Aftermarket HU's are rated between 15-22 watts RMS per channel. If high efficiency speakers are used, this is adequate for low powered systems. But, to get real clean and loud system performance, 50 watts RMS per channel is a big step up. (+6 to +8 dB more sound is a lot in a car system)
Swez
rjpdos on 07/30/2009 14:53:57
i have a 5 year old rockford fosgate amp that i believe is a 2 channel (2x175) but im not sure when i got my truck it was already installed so i cant be certain what it is...the receipt was still in the glove compartment but all it said was the same thing so im not sure where i stand
swez on 07/30/2009 15:58:13
What are the fuse values used in this amp? That will help some too.
Is this the "George Foreman" griller style amp? (Looks like a toaster or griller ?) SMILE
Swez
rjpdos on 07/30/2009 15:59:53
haha yes its the one that looks like a "george foreman"
and i have no idea what the fuse values FROWN
swez on 07/30/2009 18:41:07
Ahh, those were actually pretty good amps from RF and tended to be rated considerably lower on specs than what it is really able to produce.
I really need the model # for find out how to advise you. They made several versions in that chassis style back in 03-06 and w/o the P/N or fusing details, I can't say for certain what you really have here power wise and how to get the most from it.
Older Punch series???
Swez
Victor on 07/31/2009 02:36:21
Can you measure the amp, and note down its external dimensions ?
and also post a picture if possible...
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 10:18:22
i will do my best to acquire the information you guys have asked for but its is under the seat of my car which is hard to view unless i remove the seat. but i will try to get the information back to you asap
swez on 08/3/2009 11:16:06
Try a mirror on a stick and a flashlight.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 11:31:17
haha will do...i am currently at work so this will have to wait till later this afternoon but i will see what i can rig up to get the necessary information...
so all you really need in the model number?
swez on 08/3/2009 12:40:14
Yeah, we kinda do in this case as RF made so many amps that look the same, but have different power ratings and features in this series. In order to know how best to use this amp and get the most from it, the model number will verify what we are not sure of now.
Swez
PS What is this amp powering now? (Sub(s) or speakers?)
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 17:39:52
it is powering two blown 10" alpine type r's
swez on 08/3/2009 18:46:53
Okay, powering subs off this amp. Did the Type R's sound pretty strong before they blew a gasket? And, Which version type R's do you have now? (2+2 or 4+4 DVC's?) That will help a bit with the model # of this RF amp.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/3/2009 22:22:01
they sounded pretty good originally but i cant be totally sure since this was not my set up...
the two type R's are DVC 2-ohm and all i can get off the amp is 451s power series...
i hope this helps...
thanks again guys
swez on 08/4/2009 08:08:58
This helps a lot. The "Power 451s" is rated at 115 x 2 Wrms @ 4 ohms per channel and 225 x 2 @ 2 ohms per channel and when bridged to a 4 ohm load, you'll get 450 Wrms @ 4 ohms.
Here, a single 4 ohm sub, (a 2+2 DVC in series) that can handle ~500 Wrms is recommended or a pair of 4+4 DVC's, (Series/Parallel wiring for 4 ohms) will do the job.
Not sure how your present subs are wired to this amp, but it's fortunate you have not damaged the amp at this point.
Do you know how these subs are wired to this amp?
Swez
rjpdos on 08/4/2009 09:18:33
no idea how the subs are wired....but since they are done i have been planning to update my entire system....
i have 4 5x7 eclipse point source speakers (at least one of which i believe is blown) running off my pioneer DEHP650 head unit.
all that i was hoping that would carry over would be my HU and my existing amp...is there any way i could get my RF amp to power 4 new speakers?
swez on 08/4/2009 17:55:06
Yes, the speakers would have to be 4 ohms each, or higher and 2 pairs in parallel will net a 2 ohm load per channel and save for this amp. You won't have fade control this way, but installing some load resistors or rheostats to the rear speakers would help dial them down as needed.
This RF amp is really best suited for sub use to get the most from it. If it's rated at 450 Wrms, but it will likely deliver over 500 Wrms when bridged.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/4/2009 18:03:06
Thanks
thats what i figured about the amp but i plan upgrading to subs that would require a more powerful amp, so i was hoping that i could still get some use out of my older amp.
any suggestion on speakers that i could get that would work when wired to my existing RF amp?
swez on 08/4/2009 19:02:47
Yes, I'm very pleased with the Infinity Ref ahd Kappa series speakers available. They can take high wattage, put out great sound and love a strong amp to power them.
They come in 2 & 4 ohm models, Components for the front doors and coaxials for the rear. They use quality parts, very well built motors and cones for above average MidBass and great tweeters in silk or edge-driven versions for high intensity sound.
They also come in various common sizes that will fit most vehicles with minimal mounting work for ovals or rounds.
Just remember, the RF amp pulls a good deal of current at high SPL levels and you'll need a strong bass engine to fill in the low. (500 - 1000 watts RMS from the sub amp will tax the charging system and some upgrades may be needed to go that route in the future.
We know the drill and can guide you through each step as needed.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/4/2009 21:55:16
swez
the plan was to do the subs first since my speakers are still fairly decent. i would just hold on to the amp until i get the speakers. since i was planning on getting two JBL P1024's and an alpine MRP M-1000 to power them.
then once i get that all set up i will get some infinity speakers to round out my system.
how does this sound?
swez on 08/5/2009 07:04:28
Good amp and good subs, but they do not match up properly together. You'll need a pair of 2+2 DVC's to get the net 2-ohm load that is perfect for this amp. (JBL 1022 is the correct product here)
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=P1022&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA&cat=SUB&ser=POS
Swez
rjpdos on 08/5/2009 09:36:01
so a pair of JBL P1022's will have a net 2 ohm load matched with an Alpine MRP M-1000 which will provide how much wattage to each sub?
swez on 08/5/2009 17:48:09
Tha Alpine will deliver up to 500 Wrms per sub. If you go sealed with the JBL subs, they cnhandle the extra power with ease. (Each sub has its own chamber)
In the meantime, get the JBL subs and if you use the RF amp mentioned earlier, wire one sub only for a 4 ohm load and let the other sub remain "unpowered" until the Alpine amp comes in. You'll have good bass this way and not risk damage to the RF amp.
Swez
rjpdos on 08/6/2009 09:16:23
Thanks swez!
so with the M-1000 i will only be putting 500 watts to each sub according to your last post...so am i correct in saying that if i have the M-500 i would only be getting 250 to each sub? i am just trying to understand how this all translates...
as for hooking the RF up, i plan on getting the JBL's and the Alpine within the same timeframe so i would not bother with hooking one one up the the RF...
swez on 08/6/2009 19:52:02
Yes, you can use the M500 and each sub gets about 250 WRMS each. If you used the M1000, the subs would be about +6dB more bass power, but a larger drain on your electricals.
A +6dB bump is not a big SPL jump and if you wanted to keep costs and electrical upgrade to a minimum, a single JBL, 4+4 DVC would be my choice. Port/vented would be most efficicient and very cost effective too. (More bang for your buck)
If it were my install, I'd use the present RF amp you have and a single ported 12" JBL 2+2 sub.
As for the 4 Mid/Highs, figure out which speakers you's like and use a good 4-channel amp to power whatever speakers you choose.
Comments?
Swez
Victor on 08/7/2009 15:32:29
Try exploring products from the following..
Focal audio, Rainbow audio, dynaudio, diamond audio,
Morel, Peerless, Scanspeak ....
Victor...
swez on 08/9/2009 21:07:01
Yeah... right!
Those are all great brands and none are cheap. However, Parts Express.com does carry a wide varietyod replacement drivers in all but the Rainbow brand. With some clever design work and good shopping habits, you can get the quality of these brands well under retail cost.
Swez
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