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I recently bought a Phoenix Gold Ryval V800.1 amd to run my 2 12" JL Audio W3's. I was unaware that you could not hook up a mono-block amp bridged so I did (running the subs with the positive leads from the "left channel" and the neg leads from the "right channel"). I know there are not two channels and that this causes the load to be changed to a 2-Ohm load. After a couple of days I started to bump my subs harder and the amp went into protection mode. I changed the setup so I was only using one set of speaker outputs. I haven't had enough time to see if that was the cause but was curious if I may have done any permanent damage in the short time I ran them incorrectly. The amp appears to be working fine, but don't want it to blow on me. Replies (4) swez on 06/20/2009 06:03:43 If the amp is working properly, the protect circuits "will save your bacon". As you said, cannot bridge a MONO amp and most are 2 ohm stable. The 2nd pair of speaker lugs are there for ease of wiring a dual sub system. They are parallel sets and it depends on ohmic load the subs provide. The 12W3v3-4 is the best sub match for this amp. When each sub is wired to the amp properly, you get a solid 2-ohm load. The 12W3v3-x come in 3 flavors. ( 2, 4 & 8 ohm coils) Which subs do you have now? http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=25 Swez j_slim on 06/20/2009 13:51:42 I'm almost positive that they're the 12w3v3-4. They're dual voice 4ohm speakers but I bought them a few years ago and don't remember exactly. I tested the impedance thru the speakers and it tested out to 5.4 ohms. I haven't cranked the subs since I re-wired them cause I've had my 3yr old in the car, but they seem to be working good. I had a Kicker KX350.2 running them before but the protect kept coming on after hooking them up in my new car. After a day or so the amp wouldn't turn on at all and a stereo shop it was blown. Just don't want that to happen to the new amp! swez on 06/20/2009 14:27:40 OK, ya need to back track a bit before moving forward. If you have a DMM, (Digital Multimeter) on hand, measure the net ohmic reading with the subs disconnected from the amp. Once we know that ohmic value, then we can look at your options. The amp mentioned is best at a net 2 ohm load. The DMM will see it as ~1.6 ohms or there abouts. If that is the case, we take one approach. If the DMM number is much higher, we'll have to look at a different wiring configuration to get the most from this amp, and not shut down. In the meantime, disconnect your JL subs and try a basic 2 ohm sub, (A 4+4 DVC sub w/ coils wired in parallel) to see if the amp shuts down or not. If it does not, the amp is still OK. If it does shut down, more testing is suggested... dial up on the amp gain. Swez swez on 06/20/2009 19:01:43 Slim, Was looking at the older 12-3V2 subs and they are 4+4 DVC's If that's what you have on hand, this amp will still power them to 600 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. (Same sub wiring used when bridging a 2-channel to MONO. In this case, if each sub has its own terminal cup & wiring to amp, the paired coils are wired for an 8 ohm load per sub. (A DMM will each sub at 7.3 ohms) When each is connected to the speaker outs on this amp, your net load will be 4 ohms and safe for the amp. (300 RMS per sub) After that's all worked out, if your amp does shut down at high power use, adjust the gain and bass boost until the amp does not go into protect mode. Here's the manual for the 12-3V2 series and wiring diagrams for the plan you'll want is the 2nd diagram on the left column. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/12W3v2_MAN.pdf Comments? Swez Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved |