I'm looking to buy a new system for my car. I've been reading a lot of reviews and forum topics and talking to a lot of people and I have found a few things that I think might work well for my money. I was wondering if you guys would be so kind as to give me your two cents.
Here are the specs for the subs I'm planning on getting.
TWO 12" High Performance Audiobahn AW1251T Subwoofers
800-watts MAX Power Handling EACH SUB (1600W TOTAL)
400-watts R.M.S. Power Handling EACH SUB (800W RMS TOTAL)
45oz Strontium Magnet
Freq Response: 30Hz - 1kHz
Efficiency: 91.1dB
Phat Foam Surround
Poly-Coated 2 Layer Non Pressed Non Transfer KM3 Coated-Cone for Virtually No Cone Distortion
2" four Layer Black Aluminum Voice Coil
Nice Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coils
They come in a bandpass box.
For the amp I was thinking about this.
Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS
Specs
200 X 2 at 4 Ohms Stereo 400 x 2 at 2 Ohms Stereo 800 x 1 at 4 Ohms Mono
S/N Ratio: >100dB Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz (+/- 1dB) Variable 18dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz - 750Hz Variable 18dB Low-pass Crossover: 50Hz to 120Hz Bass Boost On/Off Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 50Hz RCA Throughput Connections 3-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload; Cooling Fan Cobalt Blue Illumination High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish Nickel Plated Block Terminals Air Induction Fan Cooled RCA and Speaker Level Inputs
Any information would be helpful.
It would cost me around $400. Good deal or a rip off? Anything else that would sound good for around the same price?
Thanks
Replies (11)
ttocs on 09/17/2003 17:23:18
dumb and ugly? How is that for being born under a bad sign..
Just kidding, welcome!
For that price it is not a bad deal, but there is better out there. An '83 is a hatch right? If that is the case it does not take much to be too much(if there is such a thing for you). What kind of music do you listen to, do you just want volume (spl-sound pressure level), or do you want sound quality(sq)?
ugly on 09/17/2003 19:30:28
Yes an '83 is a hatchback. The only way it could be too much is if my ears bleed and it made something in my body pop off or something.
I mostly listen to heavy metal, but I also like listening and feeling the bass of some rap songs.
I basically want something in the spl category, something that I can really feel. But I want it cheap just like anyone else. The most I can prolly put together would be 400. For that price this is the best I could find on my own. I was just looking for an expert opinion.
I got ripped off on my first subs I think.
The were 12" soundstorms. 700 watt max no telling what the rms was. And I got a Boss(that's right a crappy Boss)amp. It says 300 watts. No telling what it is either. It actually hit really good to me, but it was also my first system. Now I've listened to other systems and realized that I spent 410 on a crappy system.
So help me not get ripped off again.
Please
Swez on 09/17/2003 21:03:22
Sounds like you are on the right track here so far. Just make sure you have enough electrical power for that amp. A 2 channel Class A/B amp can pull some serious current... so you need to be sure you have a healthy ALT/BAT to manage that load... not sure what the fuse rating on this amp is... but am guessing it will be 75-80A., of current draw at full power.
Swez
ugly on 09/17/2003 23:30:40
By just looking on the net I found a alternator for my car and it was 65A, not for sure what mine is, but chances are its not 75-80A.
So what would I do. Capacitor? I really don't have the money for that. Should I get the amp anyway and test to see if my light dim?
Or should I just get a lower wattage amp?
compvr15s on 09/18/2003 00:13:24
dont waste your money on a cap. it has no useful value at all its just for looks, i was dumb enough to buy one, it dont help anything, if maybe you have little dimming a cap may help but other than that its just cosmetic.
ugly on 09/18/2003 00:34:49
So should I just get a smaller amp.
Swez on 09/18/2003 07:26:06
Well, consider their Class D Amps. They use ~30% less current and produce the same amount of power output. Check out this one: A8001DT Amplifier - 800x1 @ 1ohm (watts RMS)
http://www.audiobahninc.com/products/AMPS/classD.html
Also, that car probably has a pretty small output battery (~500 CCA). If you shop it well, look for one that is say 800+ CCA rated. This will bridge the gap in power avilable to the amp. An 800 CCA battery is equal to a 2,000,000 farad CAP in storage capacty. Walmart has a well priced set of high CCA rated batteries as does NAPA and such. Just look for sales as you shop.
NOTE: You may want to call/e-mail Bahn Tech Service and ask the current draw on both amps. Am guesstimating the 8001D pulls ~60 Amps at full power.
Swez
ugly on 09/18/2003 13:10:17
Well I went out and checked my battery this morning and surprisingly the CCA rating was 850. Is that why I can run my current subs for like three hours and it still starts.
Since my battery isn't the small 500 CCA does that mean I could go ahead and get the Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS????
Thanks for all the help you have given me so far it has helped a lot and I haved learned a lot.
I really appreciate it all.
ugly on 09/18/2003 13:13:12
And I just got a reply back from audiobahns tech support and they say that the Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS draws no more than 60 amps.
Swez on 09/18/2003 17:40:10
Cool... glad you contacted Bahn on the current draw issues as I was only making an educated guess on power draw for that size amp. Bahn does not print that detail on thier main site but am sure there are .pdf files with more data... just have nnot located them yet.
What you have now may work out OK with the present Alt. If you find the system starving for power, may have to fine an ALT rebuilder who can tweak it up to 85A or so.
The other option noted is go class D amping and drop your power consumption even more. A 25-30% drop than compared w/ Class A/B amps will help a lot.
Swez
PS If youare HAPPY with the support you get here at this site, you can become a club supporter by making a modest donation to our operating funds. Don't brealk the bank of coarse... but a few bucks here and there keeps this site alive for you can countless others. Think about all the money you have saved by coming here for this information.
PSS No... Golds do not receive compensation on the site or donations... just the satifaction of knowing our work was useful, is enough for the tech team here.
ugly on 09/18/2003 17:59:43
I don't know why bahn doesn't realease the info on their site if they have it available, doesn't seem very smart.
Again thanks for the help I'll update you on the sound and everything later.
After I start working and have some more money I will contribute to your donation pot.(poor college student)
Here are the specs for the subs I'm planning on getting.
TWO 12" High Performance Audiobahn AW1251T Subwoofers
800-watts MAX Power Handling EACH SUB (1600W TOTAL)
400-watts R.M.S. Power Handling EACH SUB (800W RMS TOTAL)
45oz Strontium Magnet
Freq Response: 30Hz - 1kHz
Efficiency: 91.1dB
Phat Foam Surround
Poly-Coated 2 Layer Non Pressed Non Transfer KM3 Coated-Cone for Virtually No Cone Distortion
2" four Layer Black Aluminum Voice Coil
Nice Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coils
They come in a bandpass box.
For the amp I was thinking about this.
Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS
Specs
200 X 2 at 4 Ohms Stereo 400 x 2 at 2 Ohms Stereo 800 x 1 at 4 Ohms Mono
S/N Ratio: >100dB Frequency Response: 10Hz - 40KHz (+/- 1dB) Variable 18dB Hi-pass Crossover: 50Hz - 750Hz Variable 18dB Low-pass Crossover: 50Hz to 120Hz Bass Boost On/Off Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 50Hz RCA Throughput Connections 3-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit and Overload; Cooling Fan Cobalt Blue Illumination High Gloss Chrome Plated Finish Nickel Plated Block Terminals Air Induction Fan Cooled RCA and Speaker Level Inputs
Any information would be helpful.
It would cost me around $400. Good deal or a rip off? Anything else that would sound good for around the same price?
Thanks
Replies (11)
ttocs on 09/17/2003 17:23:18
dumb and ugly? How is that for being born under a bad sign..
Just kidding, welcome!
For that price it is not a bad deal, but there is better out there. An '83 is a hatch right? If that is the case it does not take much to be too much(if there is such a thing for you). What kind of music do you listen to, do you just want volume (spl-sound pressure level), or do you want sound quality(sq)?
ugly on 09/17/2003 19:30:28
Yes an '83 is a hatchback. The only way it could be too much is if my ears bleed and it made something in my body pop off or something.
I mostly listen to heavy metal, but I also like listening and feeling the bass of some rap songs.
I basically want something in the spl category, something that I can really feel. But I want it cheap just like anyone else. The most I can prolly put together would be 400. For that price this is the best I could find on my own. I was just looking for an expert opinion.
I got ripped off on my first subs I think.
The were 12" soundstorms. 700 watt max no telling what the rms was. And I got a Boss(that's right a crappy Boss)amp. It says 300 watts. No telling what it is either. It actually hit really good to me, but it was also my first system. Now I've listened to other systems and realized that I spent 410 on a crappy system.
So help me not get ripped off again.
Please
Swez on 09/17/2003 21:03:22
Sounds like you are on the right track here so far. Just make sure you have enough electrical power for that amp. A 2 channel Class A/B amp can pull some serious current... so you need to be sure you have a healthy ALT/BAT to manage that load... not sure what the fuse rating on this amp is... but am guessing it will be 75-80A., of current draw at full power.
Swez
ugly on 09/17/2003 23:30:40
By just looking on the net I found a alternator for my car and it was 65A, not for sure what mine is, but chances are its not 75-80A.
So what would I do. Capacitor? I really don't have the money for that. Should I get the amp anyway and test to see if my light dim?
Or should I just get a lower wattage amp?
compvr15s on 09/18/2003 00:13:24
dont waste your money on a cap. it has no useful value at all its just for looks, i was dumb enough to buy one, it dont help anything, if maybe you have little dimming a cap may help but other than that its just cosmetic.
ugly on 09/18/2003 00:34:49
So should I just get a smaller amp.
Swez on 09/18/2003 07:26:06
Well, consider their Class D Amps. They use ~30% less current and produce the same amount of power output. Check out this one: A8001DT Amplifier - 800x1 @ 1ohm (watts RMS)
http://www.audiobahninc.com/products/AMPS/classD.html
Also, that car probably has a pretty small output battery (~500 CCA). If you shop it well, look for one that is say 800+ CCA rated. This will bridge the gap in power avilable to the amp. An 800 CCA battery is equal to a 2,000,000 farad CAP in storage capacty. Walmart has a well priced set of high CCA rated batteries as does NAPA and such. Just look for sales as you shop.
NOTE: You may want to call/e-mail Bahn Tech Service and ask the current draw on both amps. Am guesstimating the 8001D pulls ~60 Amps at full power.
Swez
ugly on 09/18/2003 13:10:17
Well I went out and checked my battery this morning and surprisingly the CCA rating was 850. Is that why I can run my current subs for like three hours and it still starts.
Since my battery isn't the small 500 CCA does that mean I could go ahead and get the Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS????
Thanks for all the help you have given me so far it has helped a lot and I haved learned a lot.
I really appreciate it all.
ugly on 09/18/2003 13:13:12
And I just got a reply back from audiobahns tech support and they say that the Audiobahn A8002T Modular A/B Mosfet 2 X 400 Watts RMS draws no more than 60 amps.
Swez on 09/18/2003 17:40:10
Cool... glad you contacted Bahn on the current draw issues as I was only making an educated guess on power draw for that size amp. Bahn does not print that detail on thier main site but am sure there are .pdf files with more data... just have nnot located them yet.
What you have now may work out OK with the present Alt. If you find the system starving for power, may have to fine an ALT rebuilder who can tweak it up to 85A or so.
The other option noted is go class D amping and drop your power consumption even more. A 25-30% drop than compared w/ Class A/B amps will help a lot.
Swez
PS If youare HAPPY with the support you get here at this site, you can become a club supporter by making a modest donation to our operating funds. Don't brealk the bank of coarse... but a few bucks here and there keeps this site alive for you can countless others. Think about all the money you have saved by coming here for this information.
PSS No... Golds do not receive compensation on the site or donations... just the satifaction of knowing our work was useful, is enough for the tech team here.
ugly on 09/18/2003 17:59:43
I don't know why bahn doesn't realease the info on their site if they have it available, doesn't seem very smart.
Again thanks for the help I'll update you on the sound and everything later.
After I start working and have some more money I will contribute to your donation pot.(poor college student)
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