Hi all,
I have a 2004 Jaguar X-type non-premium(standard) factory system. I replaced the door speakers, installed an amp, capacitor, and a JL Cleansweep.
When I try to calibrate it gives a solid red light on the right rear channel. On the amplifier, with two input sources selected, front and rear, I get no sound out of the right rear. If I set the amplifier's input source to front, I get sound out of all four speakers. I'm confused also because all of the speaker wires colors match up from the doors to the head unit except one pair(right rear). I can't find a hidden factory amp. I've looked in the sidewall of the trunk, both rear doors. JL tech support suggested that I reverse polarity on that one channel. I have yet to try that option. I'm so close to finishing this up, please help! :)
Replies (9)
swez on 03/31/2009 22:53:34
Hum, this is a neat little DPS processor and you are the first guy to come to CK about this product. If you don't have the install and users manual for this unit, snag a copy here and print it out for diagnostics issues:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/136/136441DSP.PDF
It seems like the RR part of the processor has not dialed in on the proper alignment steps due to input wiring issues. (Reverse polarity or poor signal strength due to connection techniques used)
This unit can take audio signals from the HU or internal amplifiers and balance output gains as needed. The output signals from this DSP unit require outboard Aftermarket amplifiers to each speaker. (4 channel amp min)
If you have need of expert technical advise, contact JL Audio or Crutchfield and see what they can offer for this condition.
FYI: It seems like the RR speaker level is not getting to the DPS and cannot be adjusted properly until that glitch is resolved. With a little luck, the crimp for the RR channel is not up to par or polarity is reversed.
Comments,
Swez
jbm on 04/1/2009 11:09:59
Thanks swez, unfortunately, the reversing of the polarity didn't work. The connections are solid. I wonder if the factory head unit only has three channels and somehow they wired the two rear speakers into one channel. Then, what I'm connected to is some sort of auxillary wires instead of the right rear channel. I dont know, I'll probably just replace the head unit. Thanks again
swez on 04/1/2009 22:06:02
Hi JBM,
Did a little digging on the factory radio wiring color codes and found this. This is for the 2002-03 coding, but it may be the same for 2004. Have a look and see if it helps:
RADIO +12V = brown/white, radio ACC/IGN?
RADIO GROUND = black radio ground
RADIO SWITCH = yellow/green, + 12 Volts constant?
RADIO ILLUMINATE = orange (dimmer)
LF SPEAKER = white/yellow - xx/yy?
RF SPEAKER = wht/red - yel/red
LR SPEAKER = wht/blu - yel/blu
RR SPEAKER = wht/grn - yel/red
According to this wiring call out, there are 4 separate channels off the HU. I don't see any references to outboard amps or a remote amp trigger circuit here, so we can eliminate that from the equation.
Hope this helps,
Swez
jbm on 04/2/2009 10:30:48
Hello again, thanks for that information. I'll take the head unit out one more time to confirm my wiring is correct. I can remove this head unit in about minute. I've done this drill a few times! :) Now, a new problem, it may or may not be related. I received my new subwoofer in the mail yesterday. Here's a list of what I have: JL Cleansweep CL441 dsp, Qty:4 Infinity Kappa 6 1/2 3-way speakers in the doors, 5-channel Infinity 5350a amp, 1 farad Rockford Fosgate capacitor, Infinity 1220SE 12" ported enclosure.
I hooked the subwoofer up to the positive power wire to an ACC 12v source and grounded the negative to the chassis. Lights come on, everything looks good with the sub. Connected the speaker wires to the subwoofer output channel on the amp. No sound. I have the input source set to front on the amplifier because of the errant channel issue. I can get sound out of all four speakers in that configuration but no subwoofer response. Messed around with flipping switches and buttons on the amp to no avail. Followed the instruction for a 5-channel setup. Nothing.
Link to the manual:
http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/REFampOM2007(web)rev2-5-07.pdf
I would just take this in and have it looked at but now it's become a battle of wills! A spiritual quest to get this thing to work! :) Thanks again Swez
swez on 04/2/2009 13:21:26
This amp has an INTernal and EXTernal switch for the subwoofer amp input section. In your case, use the INT selector switch feature since there are only 2 pair of RCA's from your JL Sweep DSP.
As for setting the amp crossovers, set the front and rear HPF's to ~80 Hz., and your sub setting to LPF of 80-100 Hz.
Oh, test your sub off one of the speaker channels to see if it works. Just use the normal settings and you'll hear full range if the sub is OK. Wire it up with the amp off for safety.
"A spiritual quest to get this thing to work!" I hear that... Am not going to let this silly rig get the best of me kinda thing huh? LOL Know that type of fellow very well. See him in the mirror each day.
Finally, I don't know much about the JL Sweep processor. It seems to convert OEM factory EQ curves from the HU, then digitally manipulates each channel output to optimal EQ settings and then converts Speaker Level voltages to Line Level for outboard amp use. Is that the way this product works?
Swez
jbm on 04/3/2009 09:32:48
Hey,
Yes, we're most certainly birds of a feather! If I need to go back to school and get an electrical engineering degree to get this to work, I'll do it! :)
I pullled this info from JL's website regarding the Cleansweep:
The 32-bit SHARCŪ DSP processor automatically equalizes each of the four channels with 30 bands of equalization, effectively correcting the response of almost any factory-equalized, full-range signal. CleanSweep then converts the digitally corrected signals back to analog audio and sends them out to your aftermarket amplifiers through two pairs line-level outputs.
I unhooked the subwoofer from the subwoofer output channel on the amplifier. I reconnected it to the front channel and the subwoofer came on with a full range signal. I set all the settings as recommended, no sound from the subwoofer output channel.
I looked at the wiring from the head unit. It has 4 sets of intertwined 18 gauge wire for the output channels plus a set for the power and ground. Pretty straight forward, I dont see any errant wiring issues.
The other wires coming out of the head unit are all tiny 24 gauge wire. I have two factory tweeters in the front doors. I was wondering if I could take one of these and use it as a right rear channel. Just to try and get a signal to the Cleansweep for the right rear. I realize I'll lose functionality in one of the tweeters, but I think they're being drowned out by the door speakers anyway.
If I can get the Cleansweep to calibrate on all channels then I can set the amplifier settings back to their original corresponding front and rear input settings. Thus, allowing the subwoofer to function! :) That probably makes no sense, I'm grasping at straws at this point.
I just hope I'm not dealing with a defective piece of equipment! GRRRR
Thanks for your time, swez!
swez on 04/3/2009 18:03:40
You may have a defect here and there's one good way to find out. Am wondering if there's a glitch in the Analog/Digital/Analog conversion circuits for the RR channel. Try these steps to proof it out:
You have 3 good channels that are working properly right? Well, take the HU signal from LR speaker and connect it to the RR channel in your Clean Sweep. If calibration does not come in, the conclusion is a bad circuit in your Clean Sweep DSP. (RR channel is defective)
If calibration does come in, connect the RR HU wires to the LR channel of your Clean Sweep unit. If the signal does not calibrate, the problem is not the DSP, but in the audio signal wiring from the HU on that channel. (RR signal from HU)
Swez
PS Yes, we do seem to see things from a similar perspective. I take it you are an older guy who seeks to master whatever you put your hands on? Well, in this case, just borrow knowledge from those who have that experience and let them "coach" past the snags. SMILE
jbm on 04/3/2009 22:26:23
Hello,
Judging by my receeding hairline and the new colors emerging in my hair, I guess I am an older guy. :) Sure dont feel like it though! Borrowing knowledge is what it's all about, glad to see someone is still willing to loan it out.
I went to battle again tonight with a better attitude and lighting to match. I realized that my LP and HP frequency settings were incorrect. I set them as you instructed and wham! The subwoofer came alive! Wow, the sound is unbelievable.
I haven't tried the Cleansweep diagnosis procedure you outlined, but I will. That little red error light will eat at me until I disassemble everything to make it right! :) Right now the amplifier is splitting the front channel out to all the speakers.
I'm enjoying the sweet sound of victory for now and I'll launch another offensive soon. I need to clean the blood, sweat and tears from the interior. Love the site and car audio, I'll be around. The owners manual configuration for a 5-channel setup was flat wrong. Thanks again swez! Donation is on the way! :)
swez on 04/3/2009 22:46:08
Same here brother... the hair is still there, but the gray is coming in fast and furious, but so what... at 50+, we can expect such things and just let it flow.
Sounds like a general breakthrough on this account. The RF and RR are the same signals and likewise for the LF and LR. But for whatever reason, having the sub firing up is a good sign.
In another case, take it up a few notches and doing this kinda stuff for pay by a patient client. Now, that's what I call pressure under fire. It all worked out in the end, but being on the hot seat the whole time was an interesting experience, not soon to be forgotten.
Run the diagnotics as noted and see what develops. If you note all systems go, use what works. If that is not satisfactory, some Professional assistance is in order before sending the DSP back for a swap.
Donation? That would be most appreciated as we have not started our spring donation drive just yet. If the site is under-funded, we'll be asking for support soon.
Keep us posted as you learn more,
Swez
I have a 2004 Jaguar X-type non-premium(standard) factory system. I replaced the door speakers, installed an amp, capacitor, and a JL Cleansweep.
When I try to calibrate it gives a solid red light on the right rear channel. On the amplifier, with two input sources selected, front and rear, I get no sound out of the right rear. If I set the amplifier's input source to front, I get sound out of all four speakers. I'm confused also because all of the speaker wires colors match up from the doors to the head unit except one pair(right rear). I can't find a hidden factory amp. I've looked in the sidewall of the trunk, both rear doors. JL tech support suggested that I reverse polarity on that one channel. I have yet to try that option. I'm so close to finishing this up, please help! :)
Replies (9)
swez on 03/31/2009 22:53:34
Hum, this is a neat little DPS processor and you are the first guy to come to CK about this product. If you don't have the install and users manual for this unit, snag a copy here and print it out for diagnostics issues:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/136/136441DSP.PDF
It seems like the RR part of the processor has not dialed in on the proper alignment steps due to input wiring issues. (Reverse polarity or poor signal strength due to connection techniques used)
This unit can take audio signals from the HU or internal amplifiers and balance output gains as needed. The output signals from this DSP unit require outboard Aftermarket amplifiers to each speaker. (4 channel amp min)
If you have need of expert technical advise, contact JL Audio or Crutchfield and see what they can offer for this condition.
FYI: It seems like the RR speaker level is not getting to the DPS and cannot be adjusted properly until that glitch is resolved. With a little luck, the crimp for the RR channel is not up to par or polarity is reversed.
Comments,
Swez
jbm on 04/1/2009 11:09:59
Thanks swez, unfortunately, the reversing of the polarity didn't work. The connections are solid. I wonder if the factory head unit only has three channels and somehow they wired the two rear speakers into one channel. Then, what I'm connected to is some sort of auxillary wires instead of the right rear channel. I dont know, I'll probably just replace the head unit. Thanks again
swez on 04/1/2009 22:06:02
Hi JBM,
Did a little digging on the factory radio wiring color codes and found this. This is for the 2002-03 coding, but it may be the same for 2004. Have a look and see if it helps:
RADIO +12V = brown/white, radio ACC/IGN?
RADIO GROUND = black radio ground
RADIO SWITCH = yellow/green, + 12 Volts constant?
RADIO ILLUMINATE = orange (dimmer)
LF SPEAKER = white/yellow - xx/yy?
RF SPEAKER = wht/red - yel/red
LR SPEAKER = wht/blu - yel/blu
RR SPEAKER = wht/grn - yel/red
According to this wiring call out, there are 4 separate channels off the HU. I don't see any references to outboard amps or a remote amp trigger circuit here, so we can eliminate that from the equation.
Hope this helps,
Swez
jbm on 04/2/2009 10:30:48
Hello again, thanks for that information. I'll take the head unit out one more time to confirm my wiring is correct. I can remove this head unit in about minute. I've done this drill a few times! :) Now, a new problem, it may or may not be related. I received my new subwoofer in the mail yesterday. Here's a list of what I have: JL Cleansweep CL441 dsp, Qty:4 Infinity Kappa 6 1/2 3-way speakers in the doors, 5-channel Infinity 5350a amp, 1 farad Rockford Fosgate capacitor, Infinity 1220SE 12" ported enclosure.
I hooked the subwoofer up to the positive power wire to an ACC 12v source and grounded the negative to the chassis. Lights come on, everything looks good with the sub. Connected the speaker wires to the subwoofer output channel on the amp. No sound. I have the input source set to front on the amplifier because of the errant channel issue. I can get sound out of all four speakers in that configuration but no subwoofer response. Messed around with flipping switches and buttons on the amp to no avail. Followed the instruction for a 5-channel setup. Nothing.
Link to the manual:
http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/REFampOM2007(web)rev2-5-07.pdf
I would just take this in and have it looked at but now it's become a battle of wills! A spiritual quest to get this thing to work! :) Thanks again Swez
swez on 04/2/2009 13:21:26
This amp has an INTernal and EXTernal switch for the subwoofer amp input section. In your case, use the INT selector switch feature since there are only 2 pair of RCA's from your JL Sweep DSP.
As for setting the amp crossovers, set the front and rear HPF's to ~80 Hz., and your sub setting to LPF of 80-100 Hz.
Oh, test your sub off one of the speaker channels to see if it works. Just use the normal settings and you'll hear full range if the sub is OK. Wire it up with the amp off for safety.
"A spiritual quest to get this thing to work!" I hear that... Am not going to let this silly rig get the best of me kinda thing huh? LOL Know that type of fellow very well. See him in the mirror each day.
Finally, I don't know much about the JL Sweep processor. It seems to convert OEM factory EQ curves from the HU, then digitally manipulates each channel output to optimal EQ settings and then converts Speaker Level voltages to Line Level for outboard amp use. Is that the way this product works?
Swez
jbm on 04/3/2009 09:32:48
Hey,
Yes, we're most certainly birds of a feather! If I need to go back to school and get an electrical engineering degree to get this to work, I'll do it! :)
I pullled this info from JL's website regarding the Cleansweep:
The 32-bit SHARCŪ DSP processor automatically equalizes each of the four channels with 30 bands of equalization, effectively correcting the response of almost any factory-equalized, full-range signal. CleanSweep then converts the digitally corrected signals back to analog audio and sends them out to your aftermarket amplifiers through two pairs line-level outputs.
I unhooked the subwoofer from the subwoofer output channel on the amplifier. I reconnected it to the front channel and the subwoofer came on with a full range signal. I set all the settings as recommended, no sound from the subwoofer output channel.
I looked at the wiring from the head unit. It has 4 sets of intertwined 18 gauge wire for the output channels plus a set for the power and ground. Pretty straight forward, I dont see any errant wiring issues.
The other wires coming out of the head unit are all tiny 24 gauge wire. I have two factory tweeters in the front doors. I was wondering if I could take one of these and use it as a right rear channel. Just to try and get a signal to the Cleansweep for the right rear. I realize I'll lose functionality in one of the tweeters, but I think they're being drowned out by the door speakers anyway.
If I can get the Cleansweep to calibrate on all channels then I can set the amplifier settings back to their original corresponding front and rear input settings. Thus, allowing the subwoofer to function! :) That probably makes no sense, I'm grasping at straws at this point.
I just hope I'm not dealing with a defective piece of equipment! GRRRR
Thanks for your time, swez!
swez on 04/3/2009 18:03:40
You may have a defect here and there's one good way to find out. Am wondering if there's a glitch in the Analog/Digital/Analog conversion circuits for the RR channel. Try these steps to proof it out:
You have 3 good channels that are working properly right? Well, take the HU signal from LR speaker and connect it to the RR channel in your Clean Sweep. If calibration does not come in, the conclusion is a bad circuit in your Clean Sweep DSP. (RR channel is defective)
If calibration does come in, connect the RR HU wires to the LR channel of your Clean Sweep unit. If the signal does not calibrate, the problem is not the DSP, but in the audio signal wiring from the HU on that channel. (RR signal from HU)
Swez
PS Yes, we do seem to see things from a similar perspective. I take it you are an older guy who seeks to master whatever you put your hands on? Well, in this case, just borrow knowledge from those who have that experience and let them "coach" past the snags. SMILE
jbm on 04/3/2009 22:26:23
Hello,
Judging by my receeding hairline and the new colors emerging in my hair, I guess I am an older guy. :) Sure dont feel like it though! Borrowing knowledge is what it's all about, glad to see someone is still willing to loan it out.
I went to battle again tonight with a better attitude and lighting to match. I realized that my LP and HP frequency settings were incorrect. I set them as you instructed and wham! The subwoofer came alive! Wow, the sound is unbelievable.
I haven't tried the Cleansweep diagnosis procedure you outlined, but I will. That little red error light will eat at me until I disassemble everything to make it right! :) Right now the amplifier is splitting the front channel out to all the speakers.
I'm enjoying the sweet sound of victory for now and I'll launch another offensive soon. I need to clean the blood, sweat and tears from the interior. Love the site and car audio, I'll be around. The owners manual configuration for a 5-channel setup was flat wrong. Thanks again swez! Donation is on the way! :)
swez on 04/3/2009 22:46:08
Same here brother... the hair is still there, but the gray is coming in fast and furious, but so what... at 50+, we can expect such things and just let it flow.
Sounds like a general breakthrough on this account. The RF and RR are the same signals and likewise for the LF and LR. But for whatever reason, having the sub firing up is a good sign.
In another case, take it up a few notches and doing this kinda stuff for pay by a patient client. Now, that's what I call pressure under fire. It all worked out in the end, but being on the hot seat the whole time was an interesting experience, not soon to be forgotten.
Run the diagnotics as noted and see what develops. If you note all systems go, use what works. If that is not satisfactory, some Professional assistance is in order before sending the DSP back for a swap.
Donation? That would be most appreciated as we have not started our spring donation drive just yet. If the site is under-funded, we'll be asking for support soon.
Keep us posted as you learn more,
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
