hello again....first and foremost i want to thank ck for all the helpful info i have gotten...it is greatly appreciated.....now my question is i am currently running a jvc hu to a single zx750.1 kicker amp that amp is connected to two kicker cvr 2 ohm dual vc subs each woofer is wired at 4 ohms then they are wired together for an end result of a 2 ohm load....i had them each wired at 1 ohm in a series for an end result of 2 ohms but it was loud but wasnt as clear as i would have liked so i changed to the current setting....i have just recently gotten another zx 750.1 amp and was wondering if i put one amp to each woofer if that would help out the sound quality and loudness.....i am a bass lover the louder the better.....but quality is also just as important......i currently have rf amp wiring kit installed it is a 4 gauge power cable from the battery to a dist.block then 8 guage from dist.block to amp....and i also have 4 guage ground wire to a dist.block then 8 gauge wire from dist.block to amp...i figured to just add one more 8 guage power wire from the dist.block to the new amp and the same with the ground as both d blocks have mutiple outlets.....then rcas from the output from one amp to the input of the other amp......any comments would be great......also the subs are currently in a factory kicker box with a port in one side.....i have always used sealed boxs....but when i first heard these subs in the kicker box it sounded(still sounds) good so i left them in that box......but i am wondering if i will get better sound from a seald box......i play mostly rap so i want it to sound the best i can get it with that type of music.......thanks for reading all this .....
Replies (28)
swez on 03/6/2009 03:58:54
Use the box you have now. It it sounds good and does the job, leave it be for now.
I suspect your ONE zx-750 is starving for power. A #4 power line, (Dual #8's off the D-block to amp) is probably the best way to go. When the amp is getting adequate wattage, the subs will sound strong and clear too. If they sound strong and clean the first few minutes of use and then peeters out after a few good bass hits, the electrical system is not keeping up. Adding a 2nd amp will make even more strain and not help your cause.
If your dash has a voltage gage, watch the gage when the big bass hits come on. If you see a solid 13.5 volts and then it drops below 12.0 volts, more work under the hood is needed. Have you done the Big 3 wiring upgrade, a stronger BAT or H.O. ALT to date?
Swez
PS Would you mind using paragraphs and spaces on the replies? My eyes are older and the "Wall of Text" makes it hard to pick out the key points from the filler.
swez on 03/6/2009 04:05:04
Example of easy to read version of your original post:
"hello again....first and foremost i want to thank ck for all the helpful info i have gotten...it is greatly appreciated.....
Now my question is i am currently running a jvc hu to a single zx750.1 kicker amp that amp is connected to two kicker cvr 2 ohm dual vc subs each woofer is wired at 4 ohms then they are wired together for an end result of a 2 ohm load....i had them each wired at 1 ohm in a series for an end result of 2 ohms but it was loud but wasnt as clear as i would have liked so i changed to the current setting....
I have just recently gotten another zx 750.1 amp and was wondering if i put one amp to each woofer if that would help out the sound quality and loudness?.....i am a bass lover the louder the better.....but quality is also just as important......
I currently have rf amp wiring kit installed it is a 4 gauge power cable from the battery to a dist.block then 8 guage from dist.block to amp....and i also have 4 guage ground wire to a dist.block then 8 gauge wire from dist.block to amp...
I figured to just add one more 8 guage power wire from the dist.block to the new amp and the same with the ground as both d blocks have mutiple outlets.....then rcas from the output from one amp to the input of the other amp......any comments would be great......
Also, the subs are currently in a factory kicker box with a port in one side.....i have always used sealed boxs....but when i first heard these subs in the kicker box it sounded, (still sounds) good so i left them in that box......but i am wondering if i will get better sound from a sealed box......
I play mostly rap so i want it to sound the best i can get it with that type of music.......thanks for reading all this .....
Much better on the eyes?
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 09:04:31
yes i will write like thah from now on ...
ok to answer your question no i have not done any upgrades to the batt or the alt..i was thinking about getting the red top battery i think the brand is optima or something like that... i have a 2000 dodge durango and if i remember corerctly the red top is for suvs the only thing is that my battery gauge does not move from 14 volts on the dash not even with the bass pounding....the lights do dim tho ...not alot but a little bit ...enough to notice.... so any tips on a better battery would be appreciated(brands that are good) i think i should start with that and see how that goes first rite???? thanks for reading
swez on 03/6/2009 11:10:06
If you have a DC voltmeter, attach it to the battery and ground terminals on your sub amp while playing some good thump bass and see if the voltage changes/swings more than 1.5 volts.
As for the new battery, a 700-750 CCA rated Optima Red or Yellow top will help and it would be wise to do the Big 3 wiring upgrade too. Just leave your factory wires and add #4 gage lines as instructed:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1
As for your computer jumble... try hitting the enter tab to create spaces as you move through each topic. If that does not work, just work with what you have.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 19:13:11
thank you ...sorry about the text tho...
i think that i am going to try the big three this weekend and the battery as soon as i can get the money together....
i will also test the volts from the amp before and after the up grade
thanks so far your help is greatly appriciated
swez on 03/6/2009 19:28:41
You are most welcome!
Swez
PS I see you figured out spacing for paragraphs... Thanks
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 19:42:13
yup i got it down lol
i have a question about the fuse for the power wire from the alt to the battery...can i use a fuse holder like my amp kit came with or is it some other type of fuse i should use
the one i have connected to the amp power cable is plastic with the four gauge wire on either end about one foot from the terminal...then there is a large fuse looks like a buss fuse but 3 times as big and it reads 60a and that is slid into the coonection and screwed down.....
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 20:03:14
This sound like and ANL type fuse system and best for most high current applications. Does it look sorta like this?
http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php
For the amp and wire gage you have now, a 60A is just enough for your amp. If you added a Mid/High amp later, 100A is the limit for #4 gage power cables.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 20:17:44
no that is not the fuse...the one i have looks like the fuse on the back of my stereo and the ones on my amp...just bigger
also i am going to be using 4 gauge wire for the big three so the fuse should be 100a from the alt to the batt???
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 20:57:12
Ahhh, not ANL then. Just the standard inline fuse used in most car fuse boxes and most amplifiers. That sounds like an ATO series fuse system or the Maxi fuse type is similar to ATO, but larger current version.
It's enough for your present setup as is. But if you go larger or add another amp later, ANL is the most reliable inline fuse system for high current apps.
As for using an inline fuse for the ALT/BAT wire, some do and most don't. The plus reason is to protect the battery and ALT. If either shorts out, the fuse will blow to protect the other.
FYI: Factory systems often use a fusable link for that very reason. But when they blow, most guys bypass or cut it off. If you want to do that on the ALT/BAT line, use an 80-100A inline fuse on your #4 line.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 23:08:51
so in your opinion it would be ok to just put 4 gauge wire to connect the batt. to the alt without a fuse at all????
on the link you gave me about the big 3 it said to make sure that there was fuse because if anthing happens you could possibly BLOW up your battery????maybe i am misunderstanding???
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 23:15:32
Some do and many do not add a fuse there. It's best to use one and stay on the safe side. Fuses are cheap to replace. Blown Alts and shorted Bats are not. If it were me, I'd spend the extra few bucks and know things are covered.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 23:37:36
ok sounds good to me
so it will be just like the power for my amp and i should try to keep it within 18 inches from my battery?
also if i put a fuse i will probably go with an anl like you said is good for high output systems ...and i will probably buy a matching one for my amp power cable as well....try to keep it looking clean ....
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 23:52:13
Sounds good! Since the cable between your ALT and BAT are under 3 feet, pick a spot for the fuse that makes it easy to install and mount.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/7/2009 00:05:37
ok i will try to get everything to gether and installed this weekend....hopefully ....
let you kno how it went wen i finish...
thanks
swez on 03/7/2009 08:09:15
Great!
Good luck, take your time and only do this job once.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/26/2009 22:14:46
hello...
just an update on my progress with the big three.....
i amwaiting for the money to buy a kicker 0 gauge amp kit and and optima yellow top battery (battery 189$) -(amp kit 249$ retail...100 ebay...but i dont really kno about buying off the internet...dont want no fake stuff) like you said swez do it once and do it rite....
but while trying to get the money together i had a wierd problem i would like to get some feed back on
i was playing a new cd i had just burned and it had a song that had some deep long bass notes and after a minute i got a wierd smell in my durango(i have had a crossover burn up in my hand before ...smelled horrible)but this smell was different just smelled electronic....sorry but i dont have another word to explain it..not a burnt smell but a smell none the less
i had this happen to me one time before ....on a song similar to the other loud one...and the next day i took both subs out and visually checked for signs of damage or burns....found nothing...
the subs played normal after both of these episodes.....sounded good n clean.....still do
i have a dual 12 kicker inclouser its a factory kicker box with a large port in one side.
i have never had a ported box so i dont know if this is common or not ...i just think that if it was normal i would have noticed it before????
so any thoughts would be helpful....thanks
swez on 03/27/2009 22:55:25
Hi Carlos,
Try to track down that smell as it could be a warning sign that needs attention. You'll have to run the system hard for a while and then go sniffing to find the source.
Are you using the Infrasonic/Subsonic filter network on your amp? If not, set it at 30-35 Hz and activate that feature to protect your subs.
Comments?
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/27/2009 23:03:44
i dont think that my amp has that i have a kicker 08zx750.1 amp and it only has three setting,and none of them say Infrasonic/Subsonic filter
the other day that i got this smell when i got home i did try and see where it was coming from and to me it smelled like it was coming from the subs.....well the port on the side of the box......
just to also let you kno swez the box has a good amount of what i believe to be polyfill in it could that maybe be the source?????
thanks for your input
swez on 03/27/2009 23:56:26
Yes sir... this amp does have a "subsonic filter" (24 dB at 25 Hz.)
Make sure to use it with ported subs as deep lows at high power will heat up your woofer coils a lot on tracks that have very deep bass.
What you may be smelling, is the excess adhesives and laminates on the voice coils that are burning off under heavy use. This is true of many new subs and should go away in a few days of hard use. (Break in time especially)
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 02:21:44
so what your telling me is to set my crossover to 25 hz???
right now the amp crossover is set at like 85-90. on the owners manual is suggests 80hz so i put it at that give or take a little ...and it sounds good ...to me at least....
and also i bought the subs used.they were and are still in good,damn near mint condition.
the guy i bought them from had them in his car for like 2 months and then bought a brand new bmw and said that he was going to keep that all stock so he had no use for the subs.thats why he sold them.i asked him what amp he was running to them and he told me he didnt even know.he said that the shop did everything...
so i think that they maybe set the amp on the low side to break in the subs but dude never went back and he never really got alot of power runing threw them
but me on the other hand...well thats a different story....
so do you think that smell is not me damaging the subs????what do you reccomend that i do ????
thanks for the help
swez on 03/28/2009 07:52:38
Carlos,
The LPF is set to about 80 Hz., and that is good. This amp also has a Subsonic filter that is preset @ 25 Hz. (Fixed) For ported systems, this circuit needs to be activated. (Probably an on/off switch where your gain and LPF are located)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2068ZX7501/Kicker-08ZX750-1.html?tp=115
Also, was reading your install notes and it mentioned #8 power and ground wires off your D-Block. Check them for excess heat or if the jackets get soft after heavy use. That would indicate too much current and your wires should be replaced w/ #4 cables.
#8 wire is rated for 50A's. #4 wire is rated for 80A's.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 12:36:21
swez
this is the manual for my amp and i dont have any type of switch on my amp like that.unless i am totally missing it???
http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2008%20ZX%20400%20500%20750-1%20f01%20web.pdf
please have a look
thanks
swez on 03/28/2009 12:50:50
Hum, this SSF must be self actuated and automatically on at all times. It's mentioned in the specs page, but not shown in the manual as defeatable.
You can try test tones below 25 Hz., to see if it does work. Anything below 25 Hz., will be muted considerably as compared to a 30 Hz., tone. If that is the case, this feature is built into the input preamp stage and is always on.
Swez
PS Do check your #8 gage wires for excess heating at high SPL settings though. If they feel hot and very soft, the insulation can eventually melt and start a fire. Don't fry your car OK?
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 14:25:02
ok so i get those test tones and play them in my hu and what is it that i am supposed to be listening for??
and i will make sure to check those wires also ....
the only thing that the durango is in the shop for mechanical issues.but rite now i am just tryn to get ideas about my problem
thanks for all your input and as soon as i get it repaired the first thing i will do is try to get this problem worked out
and o yea ima do my best to keep the car unfryd....thanks...lol
swez on 03/28/2009 19:35:54
If you have a CD burner handy, there are sites you can get calibrated test tones for free. Search Google.... "Audio Test Tones"
http://www.tucows.com/preview/508680
100, 50, 30, 20 Hz., should do the job.
What you notice, the 100 Hz will play mostly from door speakers. As you go lower, these are all sub tones @ 50 Hz., and below.
Once you get to 20 Hz., the output level should be barely audible.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 22:52:32
ok i will try as soon as i get my durango back thanks i will let you know what happens..
thanks
swez on 03/28/2009 23:08:31
You bet.... hope your truck comes home soon from the hospital!
Swez
Replies (28)
swez on 03/6/2009 03:58:54
Use the box you have now. It it sounds good and does the job, leave it be for now.
I suspect your ONE zx-750 is starving for power. A #4 power line, (Dual #8's off the D-block to amp) is probably the best way to go. When the amp is getting adequate wattage, the subs will sound strong and clear too. If they sound strong and clean the first few minutes of use and then peeters out after a few good bass hits, the electrical system is not keeping up. Adding a 2nd amp will make even more strain and not help your cause.
If your dash has a voltage gage, watch the gage when the big bass hits come on. If you see a solid 13.5 volts and then it drops below 12.0 volts, more work under the hood is needed. Have you done the Big 3 wiring upgrade, a stronger BAT or H.O. ALT to date?
Swez
PS Would you mind using paragraphs and spaces on the replies? My eyes are older and the "Wall of Text" makes it hard to pick out the key points from the filler.
swez on 03/6/2009 04:05:04
Example of easy to read version of your original post:
"hello again....first and foremost i want to thank ck for all the helpful info i have gotten...it is greatly appreciated.....
Now my question is i am currently running a jvc hu to a single zx750.1 kicker amp that amp is connected to two kicker cvr 2 ohm dual vc subs each woofer is wired at 4 ohms then they are wired together for an end result of a 2 ohm load....i had them each wired at 1 ohm in a series for an end result of 2 ohms but it was loud but wasnt as clear as i would have liked so i changed to the current setting....
I have just recently gotten another zx 750.1 amp and was wondering if i put one amp to each woofer if that would help out the sound quality and loudness?.....i am a bass lover the louder the better.....but quality is also just as important......
I currently have rf amp wiring kit installed it is a 4 gauge power cable from the battery to a dist.block then 8 guage from dist.block to amp....and i also have 4 guage ground wire to a dist.block then 8 gauge wire from dist.block to amp...
I figured to just add one more 8 guage power wire from the dist.block to the new amp and the same with the ground as both d blocks have mutiple outlets.....then rcas from the output from one amp to the input of the other amp......any comments would be great......
Also, the subs are currently in a factory kicker box with a port in one side.....i have always used sealed boxs....but when i first heard these subs in the kicker box it sounded, (still sounds) good so i left them in that box......but i am wondering if i will get better sound from a sealed box......
I play mostly rap so i want it to sound the best i can get it with that type of music.......thanks for reading all this .....
Much better on the eyes?
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 09:04:31
yes i will write like thah from now on ...
ok to answer your question no i have not done any upgrades to the batt or the alt..i was thinking about getting the red top battery i think the brand is optima or something like that... i have a 2000 dodge durango and if i remember corerctly the red top is for suvs the only thing is that my battery gauge does not move from 14 volts on the dash not even with the bass pounding....the lights do dim tho ...not alot but a little bit ...enough to notice.... so any tips on a better battery would be appreciated(brands that are good) i think i should start with that and see how that goes first rite???? thanks for reading
swez on 03/6/2009 11:10:06
If you have a DC voltmeter, attach it to the battery and ground terminals on your sub amp while playing some good thump bass and see if the voltage changes/swings more than 1.5 volts.
As for the new battery, a 700-750 CCA rated Optima Red or Yellow top will help and it would be wise to do the Big 3 wiring upgrade too. Just leave your factory wires and add #4 gage lines as instructed:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1
As for your computer jumble... try hitting the enter tab to create spaces as you move through each topic. If that does not work, just work with what you have.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 19:13:11
thank you ...sorry about the text tho...
i think that i am going to try the big three this weekend and the battery as soon as i can get the money together....
i will also test the volts from the amp before and after the up grade
thanks so far your help is greatly appriciated
swez on 03/6/2009 19:28:41
You are most welcome!
Swez
PS I see you figured out spacing for paragraphs... Thanks
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 19:42:13
yup i got it down lol
i have a question about the fuse for the power wire from the alt to the battery...can i use a fuse holder like my amp kit came with or is it some other type of fuse i should use
the one i have connected to the amp power cable is plastic with the four gauge wire on either end about one foot from the terminal...then there is a large fuse looks like a buss fuse but 3 times as big and it reads 60a and that is slid into the coonection and screwed down.....
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 20:03:14
This sound like and ANL type fuse system and best for most high current applications. Does it look sorta like this?
http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php
For the amp and wire gage you have now, a 60A is just enough for your amp. If you added a Mid/High amp later, 100A is the limit for #4 gage power cables.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 20:17:44
no that is not the fuse...the one i have looks like the fuse on the back of my stereo and the ones on my amp...just bigger
also i am going to be using 4 gauge wire for the big three so the fuse should be 100a from the alt to the batt???
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 20:57:12
Ahhh, not ANL then. Just the standard inline fuse used in most car fuse boxes and most amplifiers. That sounds like an ATO series fuse system or the Maxi fuse type is similar to ATO, but larger current version.
It's enough for your present setup as is. But if you go larger or add another amp later, ANL is the most reliable inline fuse system for high current apps.
As for using an inline fuse for the ALT/BAT wire, some do and most don't. The plus reason is to protect the battery and ALT. If either shorts out, the fuse will blow to protect the other.
FYI: Factory systems often use a fusable link for that very reason. But when they blow, most guys bypass or cut it off. If you want to do that on the ALT/BAT line, use an 80-100A inline fuse on your #4 line.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 23:08:51
so in your opinion it would be ok to just put 4 gauge wire to connect the batt. to the alt without a fuse at all????
on the link you gave me about the big 3 it said to make sure that there was fuse because if anthing happens you could possibly BLOW up your battery????maybe i am misunderstanding???
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 23:15:32
Some do and many do not add a fuse there. It's best to use one and stay on the safe side. Fuses are cheap to replace. Blown Alts and shorted Bats are not. If it were me, I'd spend the extra few bucks and know things are covered.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/6/2009 23:37:36
ok sounds good to me
so it will be just like the power for my amp and i should try to keep it within 18 inches from my battery?
also if i put a fuse i will probably go with an anl like you said is good for high output systems ...and i will probably buy a matching one for my amp power cable as well....try to keep it looking clean ....
thanks
swez on 03/6/2009 23:52:13
Sounds good! Since the cable between your ALT and BAT are under 3 feet, pick a spot for the fuse that makes it easy to install and mount.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/7/2009 00:05:37
ok i will try to get everything to gether and installed this weekend....hopefully ....
let you kno how it went wen i finish...
thanks
swez on 03/7/2009 08:09:15
Great!
Good luck, take your time and only do this job once.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/26/2009 22:14:46
hello...
just an update on my progress with the big three.....
i amwaiting for the money to buy a kicker 0 gauge amp kit and and optima yellow top battery (battery 189$) -(amp kit 249$ retail...100 ebay...but i dont really kno about buying off the internet...dont want no fake stuff) like you said swez do it once and do it rite....
but while trying to get the money together i had a wierd problem i would like to get some feed back on
i was playing a new cd i had just burned and it had a song that had some deep long bass notes and after a minute i got a wierd smell in my durango(i have had a crossover burn up in my hand before ...smelled horrible)but this smell was different just smelled electronic....sorry but i dont have another word to explain it..not a burnt smell but a smell none the less
i had this happen to me one time before ....on a song similar to the other loud one...and the next day i took both subs out and visually checked for signs of damage or burns....found nothing...
the subs played normal after both of these episodes.....sounded good n clean.....still do
i have a dual 12 kicker inclouser its a factory kicker box with a large port in one side.
i have never had a ported box so i dont know if this is common or not ...i just think that if it was normal i would have noticed it before????
so any thoughts would be helpful....thanks
swez on 03/27/2009 22:55:25
Hi Carlos,
Try to track down that smell as it could be a warning sign that needs attention. You'll have to run the system hard for a while and then go sniffing to find the source.
Are you using the Infrasonic/Subsonic filter network on your amp? If not, set it at 30-35 Hz and activate that feature to protect your subs.
Comments?
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/27/2009 23:03:44
i dont think that my amp has that i have a kicker 08zx750.1 amp and it only has three setting,and none of them say Infrasonic/Subsonic filter
the other day that i got this smell when i got home i did try and see where it was coming from and to me it smelled like it was coming from the subs.....well the port on the side of the box......
just to also let you kno swez the box has a good amount of what i believe to be polyfill in it could that maybe be the source?????
thanks for your input
swez on 03/27/2009 23:56:26
Yes sir... this amp does have a "subsonic filter" (24 dB at 25 Hz.)
Make sure to use it with ported subs as deep lows at high power will heat up your woofer coils a lot on tracks that have very deep bass.
What you may be smelling, is the excess adhesives and laminates on the voice coils that are burning off under heavy use. This is true of many new subs and should go away in a few days of hard use. (Break in time especially)
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 02:21:44
so what your telling me is to set my crossover to 25 hz???
right now the amp crossover is set at like 85-90. on the owners manual is suggests 80hz so i put it at that give or take a little ...and it sounds good ...to me at least....
and also i bought the subs used.they were and are still in good,damn near mint condition.
the guy i bought them from had them in his car for like 2 months and then bought a brand new bmw and said that he was going to keep that all stock so he had no use for the subs.thats why he sold them.i asked him what amp he was running to them and he told me he didnt even know.he said that the shop did everything...
so i think that they maybe set the amp on the low side to break in the subs but dude never went back and he never really got alot of power runing threw them
but me on the other hand...well thats a different story....
so do you think that smell is not me damaging the subs????what do you reccomend that i do ????
thanks for the help
swez on 03/28/2009 07:52:38
Carlos,
The LPF is set to about 80 Hz., and that is good. This amp also has a Subsonic filter that is preset @ 25 Hz. (Fixed) For ported systems, this circuit needs to be activated. (Probably an on/off switch where your gain and LPF are located)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2068ZX7501/Kicker-08ZX750-1.html?tp=115
Also, was reading your install notes and it mentioned #8 power and ground wires off your D-Block. Check them for excess heat or if the jackets get soft after heavy use. That would indicate too much current and your wires should be replaced w/ #4 cables.
#8 wire is rated for 50A's. #4 wire is rated for 80A's.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 12:36:21
swez
this is the manual for my amp and i dont have any type of switch on my amp like that.unless i am totally missing it???
http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/2008%20ZX%20400%20500%20750-1%20f01%20web.pdf
please have a look
thanks
swez on 03/28/2009 12:50:50
Hum, this SSF must be self actuated and automatically on at all times. It's mentioned in the specs page, but not shown in the manual as defeatable.
You can try test tones below 25 Hz., to see if it does work. Anything below 25 Hz., will be muted considerably as compared to a 30 Hz., tone. If that is the case, this feature is built into the input preamp stage and is always on.
Swez
PS Do check your #8 gage wires for excess heating at high SPL settings though. If they feel hot and very soft, the insulation can eventually melt and start a fire. Don't fry your car OK?
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 14:25:02
ok so i get those test tones and play them in my hu and what is it that i am supposed to be listening for??
and i will make sure to check those wires also ....
the only thing that the durango is in the shop for mechanical issues.but rite now i am just tryn to get ideas about my problem
thanks for all your input and as soon as i get it repaired the first thing i will do is try to get this problem worked out
and o yea ima do my best to keep the car unfryd....thanks...lol
swez on 03/28/2009 19:35:54
If you have a CD burner handy, there are sites you can get calibrated test tones for free. Search Google.... "Audio Test Tones"
http://www.tucows.com/preview/508680
100, 50, 30, 20 Hz., should do the job.
What you notice, the 100 Hz will play mostly from door speakers. As you go lower, these are all sub tones @ 50 Hz., and below.
Once you get to 20 Hz., the output level should be barely audible.
Swez
carlos_14_707 on 03/28/2009 22:52:32
ok i will try as soon as i get my durango back thanks i will let you know what happens..
thanks
swez on 03/28/2009 23:08:31
You bet.... hope your truck comes home soon from the hospital!
Swez
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