I have 2 sets of cadence tx series aluminum cone, 2 ohm 6.5" components mounted in the stock speakers door locations.
1 kicker cvt12 in a factory, behind the seat, pickup truck box,( 4 ohm at boxs spring terminals)
Ive sealed and dampened all the doors, and walls of the rear cargo area.
Pioneer dehp77dh HU with 3 - 4 volt pre outs.
2 yellow top optimas with 2 gauge running to dist block (stock alt 124 amp)
1 Cadence txa3002 and 1 Cadence txa3004.
Plans:
Send front and rear pre outs to the 3004 to run the door speakers, this would send a rated 150 watts rms to each door under the 2ohm load.
Sub pre out to the 3002 to run the cvt12. This would send a rated 600 watts rms to the sub under a 4 ohm load.
Please consider:
Will the stock alt be enough?
From the dist block to each amp, what gauge wire?
My door components are rated 90 watts rms 2ohm resistance, I'd be sending them 150 watts at that resistance. Is this OK? or do I need to come up with another plan?
The subwoofer? Im overwhelmed by the amount of science behind all this, i.e. th parameters, waves, shape, volume and type of enclosure. I assume this sub would sound better in a properly designed box that takes my vehicle and soundstage into consideration. Kicker specs call for 1 - 4.6 cu ft in a sealed box and the sealed box it came in cant be quite 1 cu ft.
I have no problem purchasing a new sub, (this sub is a remnant from a pickup i had it in anyway) I just thought it would be nice to be able to use it and not spend more $. But i really want this system to shine so...?
P.S. The 1 thing Im dedicated to with my sub is building a cylindrical box that will take the place of my spare tire that stands up in the rear. Ive come up with a nice rock solid design that could hold 3.4 cu ft of air after bracing and I could then still cover it with the factory spare tire carpet cover. (No need to call attention to anything) I could very easily delete air volume from this box with additional bracing.
P.S.S. Im not stuck on the size of sub either.
Thanks for your time in considering all this.
Izz
Replies (10)
swez on 03/4/2009 18:49:20
Welcome to CK Izz!
Your component speakers and amp are a good match. Just pay close attention to your amp crossover and gain settings on this side of the package. (Keep it clean and full and set your HPF to 80 Hz.)
The sub amp is nice too. But the sub mentioned is really not up to the task and there is no need for +3 cf enclosure to get great bass.
With another brand 12" sub, you'll get more power handling, better sound in a sealed enclosure and under 2 cf is easy. Here, a 2+ 2 DVC that handles 500 watts RMS would be great. (Or a 4 ohm SVC that can handle a lot of power)
The power plant and wiring will depend on the current draw specs for each amp. Look at the recommended fuse ratings for each amp and that will determine the proper wiring gage to use. I cannot find the manuals for TXA series amps??? (Fuse ratings please)
You may be a candidate for the Big 3 wiring upgrade here. Both amps are strong and both are Class A/B types as well. (That means for every 60 watts they put out, they draw 100 watts) That's typical of Class A/B amps, so they need to be well fed with plenty of electrical power from your charging system and dual batteries. Read about it here:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1
Comments/questions?
Swez
kirchatndftbl on 03/4/2009 22:19:17
alpine type r would fit well here..
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14955
Izz on 03/5/2009 10:08:36
Both amplifiers are fused for 50 amps (dual 25 amp fuses) - So I think I can use 8 awg from my block to each amp?
I had the feeling Id be shopping for a sub. Now Im considering a single 15", since I'll have the volume available. Im really lost here. I listen to a wide range of music (reggae-soul-funk-hip-hop-punk- hardcore metal- jazz-blues) sound quality is very important, but Im really looking to be moved with at least concert level dbs!
I'd also really like to stick with a sealed enclosure for simplicity sake.
Price should probably be under $250 but its not as important as the sub doing what I want it to do.
Shopped around the web last night and found so many subs, read tons of reviews and recommendations. I think Im more confused now.
1 sub that stands out to me is this -
http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_subwoofer_information.html
Any opinions, suggestions and or recommendations are welcomed.
Thanks, Izz
P.S. Ive yet to find a site that even comes close to matching the down to earth info and wisdom Ive found here
swez on 03/5/2009 12:46:09
Yes, if they are fused at 50, #8 gage wires are the correct choice.
If you like tight yet deep bass, sealed is the way to go. Not to say a well designed ported cannot render great results, but for the range of music tastes mentioned, sealed will deliver.
That sub link shows a very capable sub in either the 15" or 12" models. For the amp you have now, the 2+2 DVC is the right choice. I like the low Fs numbers on both and they are very efficient for mobile audio subs. I like the 12" version for the compact enclosure it recommends. But the 15" version is not a bad choice if you have the space.
Swez
PS Thanks for the props about our site. Positive feedback is always nice to hear.
kirchatndftbl on 03/5/2009 19:59:00
i personally have two of the 12in type r's and they are great subs.. great sq, as well as spl
swez on 03/5/2009 20:58:38
Agreed, the Alpine SWR series is one of the most popular subs with our users over several years. They can handle a lot of power, work very well in smaller seal/ported enclosures and the price is well under $150.00 for 500 watt RMS sub.
I can't tell you how many of these subs people have camped on from CK, (Over 100 units is a conservative number) but of ever guy who's bought them, all give them the big thumbs up for performance, price and reliability.
The only thing I would like to see Alpine do in this series, is to get the efficiency numbers up a few dB w/o drastically damaging the SQL properties of this line. Other than that, I have yet to have anyone come back after buying 1 or more SWR subs and say they were not pleased with the choice.
We're pretty open minded here, but the SWR has been a top value for over 4 years.
Comments,
Swez
Izz on 03/6/2009 09:08:35
Alpine SWR it is. Im all about value!
Now whats the best way to go for good, big sound in my big truck, in a sealed enclosure?
A single 2+2 12" being fed 600rms at 4ohms bridged or
Two 4+4 12"s each being fed 300rms wired at 2 ohms per ch or
A single 2+2 15" being fed 600rms at 4ohms bridged?
swez on 03/6/2009 12:18:47
Right now, we're all thinking value!
The best bang for your buck will be the SWR-1522D. The sealed box will give the tightest bass response and still go low too. The specs on this sub can be found here, but they only list the 4+4 DVC. You want the 2+2 version. The power rating for the 15" is 750 watts RMS.
Sealed optimal is about 2.0 cf + 0.2 cf more for sub displacement. (2.2 cf sealed internal airspace should do nicely)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1542/Alpine-SWR-1542D.html?tp=111
Better prices:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=alpine+swr-1522d+type+r&cid=14672063766109211685&sa=title#ps-sellers
Comments?
Swez
Izz on 03/7/2009 08:42:15
SWR 1522d is on its way from OCS, under $200 shipped!
Rest of the install is about half done (big job)
Thanks for the recommend - Kirchatndftbl and Swez, Ill let you know when I start on my enclosure.
P.S. Sorry i forgot to confirm that I set my 3004 (amp for my 6.5 comps) to high pass and adjust the freq dial to 80 then?
(I dont understand how the passive xovers work with the comps. I assume they send just mid and high freq to the respective drivers but they dont block the lows?)
swez on 03/7/2009 13:35:26
Right, 80 Hz is a common crossover point for car audio gear.
The HPF crossovers on amps and HU are active units as they have preamps. Passives are a combination of capacitors, resistors and coils to route the proper frequency ranges to a given set of speakers.
I don't know if many passives block lows to the larger cones or not. Running a low range sweep tone would tell if yours do or not.
Swez
1 kicker cvt12 in a factory, behind the seat, pickup truck box,( 4 ohm at boxs spring terminals)
Ive sealed and dampened all the doors, and walls of the rear cargo area.
Pioneer dehp77dh HU with 3 - 4 volt pre outs.
2 yellow top optimas with 2 gauge running to dist block (stock alt 124 amp)
1 Cadence txa3002 and 1 Cadence txa3004.
Plans:
Send front and rear pre outs to the 3004 to run the door speakers, this would send a rated 150 watts rms to each door under the 2ohm load.
Sub pre out to the 3002 to run the cvt12. This would send a rated 600 watts rms to the sub under a 4 ohm load.
Please consider:
Will the stock alt be enough?
From the dist block to each amp, what gauge wire?
My door components are rated 90 watts rms 2ohm resistance, I'd be sending them 150 watts at that resistance. Is this OK? or do I need to come up with another plan?
The subwoofer? Im overwhelmed by the amount of science behind all this, i.e. th parameters, waves, shape, volume and type of enclosure. I assume this sub would sound better in a properly designed box that takes my vehicle and soundstage into consideration. Kicker specs call for 1 - 4.6 cu ft in a sealed box and the sealed box it came in cant be quite 1 cu ft.
I have no problem purchasing a new sub, (this sub is a remnant from a pickup i had it in anyway) I just thought it would be nice to be able to use it and not spend more $. But i really want this system to shine so...?
P.S. The 1 thing Im dedicated to with my sub is building a cylindrical box that will take the place of my spare tire that stands up in the rear. Ive come up with a nice rock solid design that could hold 3.4 cu ft of air after bracing and I could then still cover it with the factory spare tire carpet cover. (No need to call attention to anything) I could very easily delete air volume from this box with additional bracing.
P.S.S. Im not stuck on the size of sub either.
Thanks for your time in considering all this.
Izz
Replies (10)
swez on 03/4/2009 18:49:20
Welcome to CK Izz!
Your component speakers and amp are a good match. Just pay close attention to your amp crossover and gain settings on this side of the package. (Keep it clean and full and set your HPF to 80 Hz.)
The sub amp is nice too. But the sub mentioned is really not up to the task and there is no need for +3 cf enclosure to get great bass.
With another brand 12" sub, you'll get more power handling, better sound in a sealed enclosure and under 2 cf is easy. Here, a 2+ 2 DVC that handles 500 watts RMS would be great. (Or a 4 ohm SVC that can handle a lot of power)
The power plant and wiring will depend on the current draw specs for each amp. Look at the recommended fuse ratings for each amp and that will determine the proper wiring gage to use. I cannot find the manuals for TXA series amps??? (Fuse ratings please)
You may be a candidate for the Big 3 wiring upgrade here. Both amps are strong and both are Class A/B types as well. (That means for every 60 watts they put out, they draw 100 watts) That's typical of Class A/B amps, so they need to be well fed with plenty of electrical power from your charging system and dual batteries. Read about it here:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1
Comments/questions?
Swez
kirchatndftbl on 03/4/2009 22:19:17
alpine type r would fit well here..
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14955
Izz on 03/5/2009 10:08:36
Both amplifiers are fused for 50 amps (dual 25 amp fuses) - So I think I can use 8 awg from my block to each amp?
I had the feeling Id be shopping for a sub. Now Im considering a single 15", since I'll have the volume available. Im really lost here. I listen to a wide range of music (reggae-soul-funk-hip-hop-punk- hardcore metal- jazz-blues) sound quality is very important, but Im really looking to be moved with at least concert level dbs!
I'd also really like to stick with a sealed enclosure for simplicity sake.
Price should probably be under $250 but its not as important as the sub doing what I want it to do.
Shopped around the web last night and found so many subs, read tons of reviews and recommendations. I think Im more confused now.
1 sub that stands out to me is this -
http://www.soundsplinter.com/rlp15_subwoofer_information.html
Any opinions, suggestions and or recommendations are welcomed.
Thanks, Izz
P.S. Ive yet to find a site that even comes close to matching the down to earth info and wisdom Ive found here
swez on 03/5/2009 12:46:09
Yes, if they are fused at 50, #8 gage wires are the correct choice.
If you like tight yet deep bass, sealed is the way to go. Not to say a well designed ported cannot render great results, but for the range of music tastes mentioned, sealed will deliver.
That sub link shows a very capable sub in either the 15" or 12" models. For the amp you have now, the 2+2 DVC is the right choice. I like the low Fs numbers on both and they are very efficient for mobile audio subs. I like the 12" version for the compact enclosure it recommends. But the 15" version is not a bad choice if you have the space.
Swez
PS Thanks for the props about our site. Positive feedback is always nice to hear.
kirchatndftbl on 03/5/2009 19:59:00
i personally have two of the 12in type r's and they are great subs.. great sq, as well as spl
swez on 03/5/2009 20:58:38
Agreed, the Alpine SWR series is one of the most popular subs with our users over several years. They can handle a lot of power, work very well in smaller seal/ported enclosures and the price is well under $150.00 for 500 watt RMS sub.
I can't tell you how many of these subs people have camped on from CK, (Over 100 units is a conservative number) but of ever guy who's bought them, all give them the big thumbs up for performance, price and reliability.
The only thing I would like to see Alpine do in this series, is to get the efficiency numbers up a few dB w/o drastically damaging the SQL properties of this line. Other than that, I have yet to have anyone come back after buying 1 or more SWR subs and say they were not pleased with the choice.
We're pretty open minded here, but the SWR has been a top value for over 4 years.
Comments,
Swez
Izz on 03/6/2009 09:08:35
Alpine SWR it is. Im all about value!
Now whats the best way to go for good, big sound in my big truck, in a sealed enclosure?
A single 2+2 12" being fed 600rms at 4ohms bridged or
Two 4+4 12"s each being fed 300rms wired at 2 ohms per ch or
A single 2+2 15" being fed 600rms at 4ohms bridged?
swez on 03/6/2009 12:18:47
Right now, we're all thinking value!
The best bang for your buck will be the SWR-1522D. The sealed box will give the tightest bass response and still go low too. The specs on this sub can be found here, but they only list the 4+4 DVC. You want the 2+2 version. The power rating for the 15" is 750 watts RMS.
Sealed optimal is about 2.0 cf + 0.2 cf more for sub displacement. (2.2 cf sealed internal airspace should do nicely)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWR1542/Alpine-SWR-1542D.html?tp=111
Better prices:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=alpine+swr-1522d+type+r&cid=14672063766109211685&sa=title#ps-sellers
Comments?
Swez
Izz on 03/7/2009 08:42:15
SWR 1522d is on its way from OCS, under $200 shipped!
Rest of the install is about half done (big job)
Thanks for the recommend - Kirchatndftbl and Swez, Ill let you know when I start on my enclosure.
P.S. Sorry i forgot to confirm that I set my 3004 (amp for my 6.5 comps) to high pass and adjust the freq dial to 80 then?
(I dont understand how the passive xovers work with the comps. I assume they send just mid and high freq to the respective drivers but they dont block the lows?)
swez on 03/7/2009 13:35:26
Right, 80 Hz is a common crossover point for car audio gear.
The HPF crossovers on amps and HU are active units as they have preamps. Passives are a combination of capacitors, resistors and coils to route the proper frequency ranges to a given set of speakers.
I don't know if many passives block lows to the larger cones or not. Running a low range sweep tone would tell if yours do or not.
Swez
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