Ok here is the thing. I've been reading a lot on this, everybody has different answer depending on the set up so I figured I would post my situation.
1 Digital Capacitor
I have 2 JL 12w3v3-8 subs on a ported box
I have a JL 500/1v2 amp mono block amp
I have my amp set up at 4 Ohms - 44.7 v (gain) with the "Q" control set at 1.1, the Central Freq set at 55 and Boost (dB) +3.........
To set it up I looked at the instructions by JL Audio
Well now to the problem every time turn up the volume on my system pass 25 out 35 the subs shut off and on. I have try looking at the amp when the subs shut off to see what light turn on. Hoping to determine if its due to over heating or low Ohms but nothing the amps stays on with it green light saying everything is fine but the subs still go off...... Can any one help me with this issue? I have seen people say that it might be due to the battery or weak alternator.
I forgot to mention this only happens when i'm on a complete stop onces I'm driving my system can be turn up to about 30 before the subs shut off again.
Replies (11)
swez on 02/25/2009 15:52:26
Welcome to CK!
Check the voltage readings on your digital Cap when this happens. If you note the voltage drops below 12.0 volts while the system is playing hard, your answer is likely to be low voltage due to a damaged ALT or a weak BAT.
If this is the case, head over to a good autoparts store that can test your ALT/BAT right out in the lot with a portable tester. Ask them for a "Load Test" and see what numbers come out from the test.
This is most likely something gone bad in your electrical system and needs attention ASAP. Look for the obvious too:
Corroded/loose battery/ALT cables
A worn out battery (4-5 years old)
Low fluid levels in the battery cells
Swez
kandyman99 on 02/25/2009 16:04:48
Thank you, it seems like a kool Forum......
When i was checking the amp i also looked at the Cap. The times it shut off the volts were around 12.2 & 12.3....... I'll do the ALT test today after work since my battery is only 3 months old. Thanks for the for the help.
Hey one more thing if they test my ALT/BAT and everything is fine do u think I may need to up grade the "BIG 3" wires?
ttocs on 02/25/2009 16:19:38
if your power wires going to the amp are thicker then a 10 awg wire then a big 3 upgrade would be advised.
kandyman99 on 02/25/2009 17:25:38
I'm running 4g wire to my amps so if everything is fine then I’m going to need to upgrade the big 3........ What "g" would you recommend using for the upgrade?
swez on 02/25/2009 22:38:23
If this is the only amp used, #4 wire for your upgrade should be good up to 1500 watts. Just run them in parallel with your stock lines as this will be additive to power handling and lower voltage drops to the system at large.
FYI: When the electrical system is up to snuff, should see 13.5 - 14.4 volt readings off your Cap display. If the charging system checks out good, you should be getting a solid 14.0 + volts reading off the battery terminals when the engine is running.
Since this car is a bit older, clean all wiring connections and grounds. Same thing at the amp. (Bare metal ground here)
Swez
kandyman99 on 03/3/2009 22:09:17
I got it checked and everything came back normal.... the battery was fine and the alt also checked normal...... what else could it be wrong? would the big 3 upgrade really make that much of a difference?
swez on 03/4/2009 00:15:22
Good follow up on testing your electricals. The ALT is up to par, but you may need a few things to set the problem to rest:
1. How old is your BAT?
2. What is the CCA rating of this BAT? (Over 600 Cold Cranking Amps is desirable)
3. Big 3 upgrade is a must here
4. Dial back on the amp gains by 1/2 volt
The JL 500/1 is a very good and unique amp. The regulated power supply is one of the best in the biz. However, your ALT is not able to keep up with power demands of this amp when your lights and other accessories or on. (Low output at low RPM's) The Big 3 can help that and a larger CCA BAT will too. (Optima Yellow Top, 650 CCA +)
There is a considerable voltage drop as noted earlier. When this amp senses low voltage, it will shut off until adequate power comes back into the system. (Nice feature, but also finicky/precise by design)
Is this the OEM factory BAT or the 2nd BAT? I ask that as typical start only BATs only last 4-5 years. The normal Lead/Acid BATs have a limited # of CCA amperes to deliver and decays over time.
Comments?
Swez
kandyman99 on 03/8/2009 18:27:26
Hey thank you for all you help so far. Ok here are the answers to your questions
1) The BAT is about 3 months old
2) The BAT is rated at 630 CCA
3) Since the Big 3 upgrades is a must then what size fuse do i use from ALT to BAT?
4) So u want my gain to read 44.2v instead of 44.7v right?
Hey what could be the best set up for my amp and subs? I want to get the best out of them.... Do they work well togethere? What would be the best Gain - Q control - Central Freq and Boost (dB) for my set up?
swez on 03/8/2009 21:01:02
Good info... KM and you are most welcome for the support.
1. The Bat should be adequate if the wiring is upgraded (Big 3)
2. Use #4 gage wire for your Big 3 and use an inline fuse from ALT to BAT that matches the ALT full output (80-100A's is about right)
3. When your subs are wired in parallel, that nets a 4 ohm load to the amp. (These subs are 8 ohm SVC's, 300 RMS/sub)
The gain setting for 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms is 44.7 volts AC. For now, dial back on your voltage to say 40.0 volts and see if the amp keeps running.
I suspect that if you add more bass boost at the HU/EQ or amps' bass boost function, your voltage spikes are well past 48 volts. If you like rap or hip-hop, the bass is often boosted considerably. (+10dB spikes are not uncommon in these generes)
On long, hard bass hits, the amp runs out of "juice and shuts off until voltage level come back up. The amp comes back on shortly. (Protect circuits, "Under voltage" are working properly) Slick feature huh?
Is that a good summary of what you are experiencing? If yes, drop to 40 volts for now and do the Big 3 when you can. You'll know it worked if the Cap voltage gage climbs above 13.0 volts and the amp does not shut down on hard runs.
Your Q-function can be adjusted by ear as it based on the music you like most. A "Q" of 0.8 - 1.2, centered at 45 - 55 Hz., is a good place to start. The Boost dB should be +3. (Less is often better)
Finally, since your subs are ported, set the Infrasonic Filter to about 30 - 35 Hz. That will protect the subs from bass we cannot really hear and eases the amps' surge loads as well. (Less voltage drops)
Swez
PS This is a good match for a Daily Driver system. Stand pat on this gear and optimize the electrical system for max performance. A solid amp like this JL Slash 500/1 is a very sophisticated piece of audio gear. I with other amp makers would follow their lead.
kandyman99 on 03/30/2009 14:45:48
Swez
I finally did the Big 3 upgrade.... So far it seems to have solved my issue.... I go as high as i want on my volume and they dont shut off..... its great =0D..... thank you for all your help.
I'll post some pic's of the upgrade later........
swez on 03/30/2009 15:56:43
Very good KM!
Observe your Caps' voltage meter and see where it ranges as you pump up the bass. If the voltage stays at 13.0 volts, (+/- 0.3 volts) or higher and the amp does not shut down, the Big 3 was successful.
Thanks for the feedback, CLAP
Swez
1 Digital Capacitor
I have 2 JL 12w3v3-8 subs on a ported box
I have a JL 500/1v2 amp mono block amp
I have my amp set up at 4 Ohms - 44.7 v (gain) with the "Q" control set at 1.1, the Central Freq set at 55 and Boost (dB) +3.........
To set it up I looked at the instructions by JL Audio
Well now to the problem every time turn up the volume on my system pass 25 out 35 the subs shut off and on. I have try looking at the amp when the subs shut off to see what light turn on. Hoping to determine if its due to over heating or low Ohms but nothing the amps stays on with it green light saying everything is fine but the subs still go off...... Can any one help me with this issue? I have seen people say that it might be due to the battery or weak alternator.
I forgot to mention this only happens when i'm on a complete stop onces I'm driving my system can be turn up to about 30 before the subs shut off again.
Replies (11)
swez on 02/25/2009 15:52:26
Welcome to CK!
Check the voltage readings on your digital Cap when this happens. If you note the voltage drops below 12.0 volts while the system is playing hard, your answer is likely to be low voltage due to a damaged ALT or a weak BAT.
If this is the case, head over to a good autoparts store that can test your ALT/BAT right out in the lot with a portable tester. Ask them for a "Load Test" and see what numbers come out from the test.
This is most likely something gone bad in your electrical system and needs attention ASAP. Look for the obvious too:
Corroded/loose battery/ALT cables
A worn out battery (4-5 years old)
Low fluid levels in the battery cells
Swez
kandyman99 on 02/25/2009 16:04:48
Thank you, it seems like a kool Forum......
When i was checking the amp i also looked at the Cap. The times it shut off the volts were around 12.2 & 12.3....... I'll do the ALT test today after work since my battery is only 3 months old. Thanks for the for the help.
Hey one more thing if they test my ALT/BAT and everything is fine do u think I may need to up grade the "BIG 3" wires?
ttocs on 02/25/2009 16:19:38
if your power wires going to the amp are thicker then a 10 awg wire then a big 3 upgrade would be advised.
kandyman99 on 02/25/2009 17:25:38
I'm running 4g wire to my amps so if everything is fine then I’m going to need to upgrade the big 3........ What "g" would you recommend using for the upgrade?
swez on 02/25/2009 22:38:23
If this is the only amp used, #4 wire for your upgrade should be good up to 1500 watts. Just run them in parallel with your stock lines as this will be additive to power handling and lower voltage drops to the system at large.
FYI: When the electrical system is up to snuff, should see 13.5 - 14.4 volt readings off your Cap display. If the charging system checks out good, you should be getting a solid 14.0 + volts reading off the battery terminals when the engine is running.
Since this car is a bit older, clean all wiring connections and grounds. Same thing at the amp. (Bare metal ground here)
Swez
kandyman99 on 03/3/2009 22:09:17
I got it checked and everything came back normal.... the battery was fine and the alt also checked normal...... what else could it be wrong? would the big 3 upgrade really make that much of a difference?
swez on 03/4/2009 00:15:22
Good follow up on testing your electricals. The ALT is up to par, but you may need a few things to set the problem to rest:
1. How old is your BAT?
2. What is the CCA rating of this BAT? (Over 600 Cold Cranking Amps is desirable)
3. Big 3 upgrade is a must here
4. Dial back on the amp gains by 1/2 volt
The JL 500/1 is a very good and unique amp. The regulated power supply is one of the best in the biz. However, your ALT is not able to keep up with power demands of this amp when your lights and other accessories or on. (Low output at low RPM's) The Big 3 can help that and a larger CCA BAT will too. (Optima Yellow Top, 650 CCA +)
There is a considerable voltage drop as noted earlier. When this amp senses low voltage, it will shut off until adequate power comes back into the system. (Nice feature, but also finicky/precise by design)
Is this the OEM factory BAT or the 2nd BAT? I ask that as typical start only BATs only last 4-5 years. The normal Lead/Acid BATs have a limited # of CCA amperes to deliver and decays over time.
Comments?
Swez
kandyman99 on 03/8/2009 18:27:26
Hey thank you for all you help so far. Ok here are the answers to your questions
1) The BAT is about 3 months old
2) The BAT is rated at 630 CCA
3) Since the Big 3 upgrades is a must then what size fuse do i use from ALT to BAT?
4) So u want my gain to read 44.2v instead of 44.7v right?
Hey what could be the best set up for my amp and subs? I want to get the best out of them.... Do they work well togethere? What would be the best Gain - Q control - Central Freq and Boost (dB) for my set up?
swez on 03/8/2009 21:01:02
Good info... KM and you are most welcome for the support.
1. The Bat should be adequate if the wiring is upgraded (Big 3)
2. Use #4 gage wire for your Big 3 and use an inline fuse from ALT to BAT that matches the ALT full output (80-100A's is about right)
3. When your subs are wired in parallel, that nets a 4 ohm load to the amp. (These subs are 8 ohm SVC's, 300 RMS/sub)
The gain setting for 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms is 44.7 volts AC. For now, dial back on your voltage to say 40.0 volts and see if the amp keeps running.
I suspect that if you add more bass boost at the HU/EQ or amps' bass boost function, your voltage spikes are well past 48 volts. If you like rap or hip-hop, the bass is often boosted considerably. (+10dB spikes are not uncommon in these generes)
On long, hard bass hits, the amp runs out of "juice and shuts off until voltage level come back up. The amp comes back on shortly. (Protect circuits, "Under voltage" are working properly) Slick feature huh?
Is that a good summary of what you are experiencing? If yes, drop to 40 volts for now and do the Big 3 when you can. You'll know it worked if the Cap voltage gage climbs above 13.0 volts and the amp does not shut down on hard runs.
Your Q-function can be adjusted by ear as it based on the music you like most. A "Q" of 0.8 - 1.2, centered at 45 - 55 Hz., is a good place to start. The Boost dB should be +3. (Less is often better)
Finally, since your subs are ported, set the Infrasonic Filter to about 30 - 35 Hz. That will protect the subs from bass we cannot really hear and eases the amps' surge loads as well. (Less voltage drops)
Swez
PS This is a good match for a Daily Driver system. Stand pat on this gear and optimize the electrical system for max performance. A solid amp like this JL Slash 500/1 is a very sophisticated piece of audio gear. I with other amp makers would follow their lead.
kandyman99 on 03/30/2009 14:45:48
Swez
I finally did the Big 3 upgrade.... So far it seems to have solved my issue.... I go as high as i want on my volume and they dont shut off..... its great =0D..... thank you for all your help.
I'll post some pic's of the upgrade later........
swez on 03/30/2009 15:56:43
Very good KM!
Observe your Caps' voltage meter and see where it ranges as you pump up the bass. If the voltage stays at 13.0 volts, (+/- 0.3 volts) or higher and the amp does not shut down, the Big 3 was successful.
Thanks for the feedback, CLAP
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
