I have a 2 channel 1200 watt amplifier and 2 dual 12 inch subwoofers wit max output power of 1200 watts. other specifications are 89 db/ w (1M). I for the life of me can not find out what the rms rating for the speakers are. Could someone help me out with this? thank you
Replies (5)
swez on 02/22/2009 17:13:19
Welcome to CK!
This is a confusing subject for many and a very good question. When a speaker maker gives the peak wattage, that indicates what the speaker/sub can take for very brief durations. Depending on the maker, the RMS rating, or Continous Power is about 25-50% of max power numbers. Good indicators of power handling are the size of the voice coil and # of coils used. (Single vs Dual Coil designs)
This part is counter-intuitive, but if a sub is fed clean, low distortion music power, a well-designed sub will act like a large air piston. (Lots of cone movement) The more the cone moves, the better it cools itself at high power ratings.
Much of this is common sense and critical listening to our gear. If the bass is clean, crisp and the cone is moving well, that's a good sign your in the safe zone. If the sub begins to sound muddy, sloppy, cone "whop" and little cone movement is noted, dial back on the bass power as the sub is now being stressed and likely to premature failure.
Comments?
Swez
ttocs on 02/22/2009 18:43:52
I am not sure if it is a typo or not but your wording is a little off. Your subs do not put out power, so they do not have a max power output. I am sure you meant to say that they have a max power rating, which is their maximum input power. I hope you don't think I am being extra critical, just want to make sure you know what you are saying.
Am I going to confuse you too much if I say that the speakers power rating is the least important number on its spec sheet? You can blow a speaker with too much power, and you can blow it with too little power even easier so the power ratings of the speaker really do not tell much. If you keep the speaker playing a good clean signal that is not clipping or distorting it will be happy and last for ever no matter what the power going into is.
swez on 02/22/2009 19:09:11
We do agree that speaker/sub power ratings are not the last word. (Our ears are!) If the subs are stressed, you'll hear it. If the amp is pressed beyond its' design limits, a good ear will detect that too.
There are a lot of sub/speaker makers that rate their products based on MAX output power. The RMS values are often 25-50% lower than Peak numbers, depending on how the Marketing department shuffles the deck.
Top tier vendors will give both Peak and RMS ratings and under what conditions the tests were used to obtain the numbers. Most will give a general spec as the minimum we can expect. However, the Best in Class vendors will often provide a "Birth Sheet" that states the exact numbers for that serial #. These numbers are the most accurate.
Swez
brookethom on 02/26/2009 00:22:36
car stereo installation/a is also not that difficult as it looks.. you just need to follow step by step instructions, color photos, wiring detail, as well as what tools ans parts you will need to do a professional installation.. so there is one source from where i buyed stereo for my car and other car
accessories i.e Sound And Alarm.
Take a look and ENjoy!!!
http://www.soundandalarm.com/car-stereos.asp
swez on 02/26/2009 10:07:34
Some very nice custom install work from this team. One can only guess how much cash was dropped on some of these rigs???
Swez
Replies (5)
swez on 02/22/2009 17:13:19
Welcome to CK!
This is a confusing subject for many and a very good question. When a speaker maker gives the peak wattage, that indicates what the speaker/sub can take for very brief durations. Depending on the maker, the RMS rating, or Continous Power is about 25-50% of max power numbers. Good indicators of power handling are the size of the voice coil and # of coils used. (Single vs Dual Coil designs)
This part is counter-intuitive, but if a sub is fed clean, low distortion music power, a well-designed sub will act like a large air piston. (Lots of cone movement) The more the cone moves, the better it cools itself at high power ratings.
Much of this is common sense and critical listening to our gear. If the bass is clean, crisp and the cone is moving well, that's a good sign your in the safe zone. If the sub begins to sound muddy, sloppy, cone "whop" and little cone movement is noted, dial back on the bass power as the sub is now being stressed and likely to premature failure.
Comments?
Swez
ttocs on 02/22/2009 18:43:52
I am not sure if it is a typo or not but your wording is a little off. Your subs do not put out power, so they do not have a max power output. I am sure you meant to say that they have a max power rating, which is their maximum input power. I hope you don't think I am being extra critical, just want to make sure you know what you are saying.
Am I going to confuse you too much if I say that the speakers power rating is the least important number on its spec sheet? You can blow a speaker with too much power, and you can blow it with too little power even easier so the power ratings of the speaker really do not tell much. If you keep the speaker playing a good clean signal that is not clipping or distorting it will be happy and last for ever no matter what the power going into is.
swez on 02/22/2009 19:09:11
We do agree that speaker/sub power ratings are not the last word. (Our ears are!) If the subs are stressed, you'll hear it. If the amp is pressed beyond its' design limits, a good ear will detect that too.
There are a lot of sub/speaker makers that rate their products based on MAX output power. The RMS values are often 25-50% lower than Peak numbers, depending on how the Marketing department shuffles the deck.
Top tier vendors will give both Peak and RMS ratings and under what conditions the tests were used to obtain the numbers. Most will give a general spec as the minimum we can expect. However, the Best in Class vendors will often provide a "Birth Sheet" that states the exact numbers for that serial #. These numbers are the most accurate.
Swez
brookethom on 02/26/2009 00:22:36
car stereo installation/a is also not that difficult as it looks.. you just need to follow step by step instructions, color photos, wiring detail, as well as what tools ans parts you will need to do a professional installation.. so there is one source from where i buyed stereo for my car and other car
accessories i.e Sound And Alarm.
Take a look and ENjoy!!!
http://www.soundandalarm.com/car-stereos.asp
swez on 02/26/2009 10:07:34
Some very nice custom install work from this team. One can only guess how much cash was dropped on some of these rigs???
Swez
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