Hello Everyone, I am new here. I have a question, hopefully someone can help me here. This is what I have so far for my car audio system.
2003 Honda Civic
Pioneer DEH-P3900MP CD/MP3 Deck
Infinity Kappa 6012i - 2 Front Speakers
Factory Rear Speakers
Infinity Kappa 10" Car Subwoofer (102.7W)
Bassworx Single 10" Sealed Subwoofer (SW10)
MTX 1-Channel Car Amplifier (X500D)
First Question:
Did I select the right combo for amp and sub? If not, what should I go for ?
2nd Question:
I need to replace rear speakers. Would it be okay if I buy Infinity Kappa 6" x 9" 2-Way Speaker (692.9I) ?
3rd Question:
Is my pioneer deck OK ? or should I replace that with a better newer model of Pioneer? I really don't need to use any fancy features like mp3/aux/ipod. I just want a LOUD CLEAR SOUND out of my car audio system.
4th Question:
Any other suggestion you guys can make in helping me improve my car audio system. Please let me know.
Thank you so much.
Rey
Replies (7)
ttocs on 12/29/2008 09:43:40
#1) that sub is a dual VC selectable to 1 or 4 ohms, and your amp is rated down to 2 ohms. That sub would be better matche to the amp if you had another sub to go with it. This would allow the amp to see a 2 ohm load and get its max power out of it. This or you can get an amp that is capable down to 1 ohm but they are more expensive then a 2nd suc
#2) I see nothing wrong with that upgrade as long as you like infinity. Myself and a few others tends to think that the tweeter can be a little harshe so if you have not actually listened to a set I invite you to.
#3) replacing a deck is almst never a bad idea as it is the starting point of the signal. If it is not clean there you can't fix it later. If you are only concerned about sound then get one with the highes rca output voltage you can. These are normally on the higher end decks with all the toys you say you don' t need.
what kind of cables are you using? I was amazed when I was 18 and spend $70 upgrade all my cables on what a difference it made......
swez on 12/29/2008 09:58:39
Rey, Welcome to CK!
You came to the right place and none too soon. We can help with all your gear and install questions and future purchases too. Oh, I see ttocs was filling in details about the same time I was. His info is on target and I ended up filling in the details. (That's team work) SMILE
This HU has some very nice features. It gives you many input features to add on toys later if desired. The HP/LP crossover feature will help take some of the strain off your speakers and more power to mids/highs. (Set the HP to 80 Hz for your main speakers) This pulls the bass out for cleaner and louder sound and lets the sub do the lows as it should be.
Nice sub here too. It's prewired for 1 or 4 ohm loads and a 0.75 - 0.8 cf sealed box is about right for optimal performance and power handling. (350 watts RMS)
The MTX X500D is a good match for your sub set to 4 ohm configuration. Set the LPF at 80 Hz to handle the low bass. (11:00 position on the dial is about right)
This Bassworx box specs out at 0.9 cf internally. It's within specs for the sub, but a tad large for optimal matching of the 102.7w sub mentioned. Once you add the sub, internal air space will shrink to about 0.80 cf. That should be a good pairing.
The Kappa 692.7i 2-way 6x9 Speakers are 2 ohm units. If you used a modest 4 channel to power the front & rear speakers, this is a good fit. If that is not possible for now, you may need to add a load resistor to bring the net ohmic load to 4 ohm. (Safe for all Aftermarket HU's)
The Infinity Kappa 6012i are 2-way, 4 ohm Coaxial rounds. These have a power rating of 60 watts RMS and to get the best from them, amping would be your best option. The MTX Thunder Elite 404, would be a good option or the MTX Terminator TN400/4 if you want to stay in the MTX line.
Better deals might be had by shopping for the older series amps that deliver at least 50 watts RMS @ 4 ohms and does not draw more than 35-40 A's of current.
A third and good option, use a modest 2 channel to power the front speakers and wire the rear speakers to the HU outputs. (Load resistor needed if using the 2-ohm units.
OK, chew on this a bit, ask more questions before you buy any new items so we can keep you out of trouble or mis-matched parts. Our next session will be putting together the hardware wiring kits you'll need
for the planned system. This takes a little more time and research, but can save a ton of $$ with proper planning and doing your own work as much as possible.
Comments?
Swez (AKA Old Man Audio)
PS This is a wonderful car to work with and if the plans are right and the install is done well, you'll have something to be very proud of later. Tell us more about this Civic. (Hatchback, 2/4 door sedan/coupe, flip down rear seats?)
civic03 on 12/30/2008 05:08:51
1. Ok then I will buy another Infinity Kappa 102.7W Sub as a 2nd sub. As you said this sub is selectable from 1 to 4 ohm, Should I set both subs to 4 ohms? What should the ohm switch be set to on each sub?
2. Yes, I will definitely upgrade rear speakers. I am stuck between 2, i don't know which one is better :S
a. Infinity Kappa 6 1/2" 2-Way Speaker (62.9I) or
b. Infinity Reference 6 1/2" 2-Way Component Speakers (6020CS)
which one is better in your opinion and why?
I think 6020CS is better because it has 90W RMS and 62.9i has 75W RMS, does that really make a big difference ? Please share your opinion.
3. I am going to replace deck as well. I made a mistake by buying that old pioneer deck because I wanted to save money. I have realized that It's better to get the right stuff first time, in the end it will be worth it. I plan to buy Pioneer DEH-P6000UB. Pre-out Volt is 4 Volts. I guess that's the highest rca output voltage, if not, I hope it will be good enough ?
I am using Stinger 8ga 600W complete amplifier wiring kit - Premium Twisted Pair HPM2 RCA - High Power 60 AMP Fused Protection (SHK682)
civic03 on 12/30/2008 05:18:33
Thank you Swez for such a warm welcome. You and ttocs have good suggestions, much better then other car audio forums I have seen. I will try those settings you have suggested and see how it sounds.
Ok As you suggested I will set the sub to 4 ohm configuration, should I set both subs to 4 ohm?
I apologize but I checked I have to get 6 1/2" rear speaker size for my car. I am stuck between 2 as I said in my previous post. Please let me know what you think is better between the two?
I am planning to buy a MTX 4-Channel Amplifier (TC4004)? Would that be a good fit for my audio system?
I think Once I have all this my audio system should be perfect and sound loud and clear??
kirchatndftbl on 12/30/2008 09:02:57
if your planning on getting a 4 channel amp for the interior speakers i suggest that you run a 4ga power wire into a distrobution block that has 8ga outs on it...
ttocs on 12/30/2008 09:14:10
again your asking the wrong person which infinity to choose as I have just never been keen on them. I would ask you which sounds better to you as that is all that matters and I have never bought a speaker I could not hear first..... I have never paid any attention to the rms or peak power rating of any speaker either.
I would set the switch to 4 ohms and then wire them in parallel where all the speaker +s toghter to the amps +, and the same with all th e -s and that will put the speakers in parallel and allow the amp to see a 2 ohm load. This will double your bass as long as you have the new sub in the same sized box as the first one.
swez on 12/30/2008 12:26:00
Good, we're firing on all cylinders here.
The MTX TC4004 is a very good choice for full range use. It's got the right features and power to spare @ 2 ohms per channel.
As for speaker choices, many like the Infinity Comps up front and Coaxials in rear. They both come in 2-ohm models too. That will give you plenty of clean power from the TC-4004 amp.
When installing speakers of this power range, it's best to add sound damping materials to the front doors. Ttocs knows the brands well and can suggest some good products at reasonable prices. The more quiet the interior, the better sound quality we get.
As for the bass engine, a single sub is enough to get the job done in this small car. Yes, you can always add a 2nd matching sub/box if you want a few extra dB's of low end bass. Either way, set the selector for 4 ohms on 1 or dual subs as noted by ttocs methods earlier.
As Kirch says, you'll need to use larger power wire for a dual amp system. Save the #8 kit wiring to use later and add a length of #4 from the battery to a D-block that splits the #4 to a pair of #8 power lines. Your inline fuse value should be 100A's. (Close to the battery)
Plan on doing the Big 3 upgrade under the hood as well: (#4 gage wiring here too) Buy enough to do it all.
How old is your present battery and what is the CCA rating on the sticker? (CCA = Cold Cranking Amps) If new, 600 CCA might be enough. If older the 4 years, plan to upgrade to say +700 CCA when the budget allows. The Gel Cell systems like Optima's Red or Yellow Tops are a good option. (The Yellow is best choice for larger installs like this one) They take more punishment and last much longer than
OEM BATs.
Comments?
Swez
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
2003 Honda Civic
Pioneer DEH-P3900MP CD/MP3 Deck
Infinity Kappa 6012i - 2 Front Speakers
Factory Rear Speakers
Infinity Kappa 10" Car Subwoofer (102.7W)
Bassworx Single 10" Sealed Subwoofer (SW10)
MTX 1-Channel Car Amplifier (X500D)
First Question:
Did I select the right combo for amp and sub? If not, what should I go for ?
2nd Question:
I need to replace rear speakers. Would it be okay if I buy Infinity Kappa 6" x 9" 2-Way Speaker (692.9I) ?
3rd Question:
Is my pioneer deck OK ? or should I replace that with a better newer model of Pioneer? I really don't need to use any fancy features like mp3/aux/ipod. I just want a LOUD CLEAR SOUND out of my car audio system.
4th Question:
Any other suggestion you guys can make in helping me improve my car audio system. Please let me know.
Thank you so much.
Rey
Replies (7)
ttocs on 12/29/2008 09:43:40
#1) that sub is a dual VC selectable to 1 or 4 ohms, and your amp is rated down to 2 ohms. That sub would be better matche to the amp if you had another sub to go with it. This would allow the amp to see a 2 ohm load and get its max power out of it. This or you can get an amp that is capable down to 1 ohm but they are more expensive then a 2nd suc
#2) I see nothing wrong with that upgrade as long as you like infinity. Myself and a few others tends to think that the tweeter can be a little harshe so if you have not actually listened to a set I invite you to.
#3) replacing a deck is almst never a bad idea as it is the starting point of the signal. If it is not clean there you can't fix it later. If you are only concerned about sound then get one with the highes rca output voltage you can. These are normally on the higher end decks with all the toys you say you don' t need.
what kind of cables are you using? I was amazed when I was 18 and spend $70 upgrade all my cables on what a difference it made......
swez on 12/29/2008 09:58:39
Rey, Welcome to CK!
You came to the right place and none too soon. We can help with all your gear and install questions and future purchases too. Oh, I see ttocs was filling in details about the same time I was. His info is on target and I ended up filling in the details. (That's team work) SMILE
This HU has some very nice features. It gives you many input features to add on toys later if desired. The HP/LP crossover feature will help take some of the strain off your speakers and more power to mids/highs. (Set the HP to 80 Hz for your main speakers) This pulls the bass out for cleaner and louder sound and lets the sub do the lows as it should be.
Nice sub here too. It's prewired for 1 or 4 ohm loads and a 0.75 - 0.8 cf sealed box is about right for optimal performance and power handling. (350 watts RMS)
The MTX X500D is a good match for your sub set to 4 ohm configuration. Set the LPF at 80 Hz to handle the low bass. (11:00 position on the dial is about right)
This Bassworx box specs out at 0.9 cf internally. It's within specs for the sub, but a tad large for optimal matching of the 102.7w sub mentioned. Once you add the sub, internal air space will shrink to about 0.80 cf. That should be a good pairing.
The Kappa 692.7i 2-way 6x9 Speakers are 2 ohm units. If you used a modest 4 channel to power the front & rear speakers, this is a good fit. If that is not possible for now, you may need to add a load resistor to bring the net ohmic load to 4 ohm. (Safe for all Aftermarket HU's)
The Infinity Kappa 6012i are 2-way, 4 ohm Coaxial rounds. These have a power rating of 60 watts RMS and to get the best from them, amping would be your best option. The MTX Thunder Elite 404, would be a good option or the MTX Terminator TN400/4 if you want to stay in the MTX line.
Better deals might be had by shopping for the older series amps that deliver at least 50 watts RMS @ 4 ohms and does not draw more than 35-40 A's of current.
A third and good option, use a modest 2 channel to power the front speakers and wire the rear speakers to the HU outputs. (Load resistor needed if using the 2-ohm units.
OK, chew on this a bit, ask more questions before you buy any new items so we can keep you out of trouble or mis-matched parts. Our next session will be putting together the hardware wiring kits you'll need
for the planned system. This takes a little more time and research, but can save a ton of $$ with proper planning and doing your own work as much as possible.
Comments?
Swez (AKA Old Man Audio)
PS This is a wonderful car to work with and if the plans are right and the install is done well, you'll have something to be very proud of later. Tell us more about this Civic. (Hatchback, 2/4 door sedan/coupe, flip down rear seats?)
civic03 on 12/30/2008 05:08:51
1. Ok then I will buy another Infinity Kappa 102.7W Sub as a 2nd sub. As you said this sub is selectable from 1 to 4 ohm, Should I set both subs to 4 ohms? What should the ohm switch be set to on each sub?
2. Yes, I will definitely upgrade rear speakers. I am stuck between 2, i don't know which one is better :S
a. Infinity Kappa 6 1/2" 2-Way Speaker (62.9I) or
b. Infinity Reference 6 1/2" 2-Way Component Speakers (6020CS)
which one is better in your opinion and why?
I think 6020CS is better because it has 90W RMS and 62.9i has 75W RMS, does that really make a big difference ? Please share your opinion.
3. I am going to replace deck as well. I made a mistake by buying that old pioneer deck because I wanted to save money. I have realized that It's better to get the right stuff first time, in the end it will be worth it. I plan to buy Pioneer DEH-P6000UB. Pre-out Volt is 4 Volts. I guess that's the highest rca output voltage, if not, I hope it will be good enough ?
I am using Stinger 8ga 600W complete amplifier wiring kit - Premium Twisted Pair HPM2 RCA - High Power 60 AMP Fused Protection (SHK682)
civic03 on 12/30/2008 05:18:33
Thank you Swez for such a warm welcome. You and ttocs have good suggestions, much better then other car audio forums I have seen. I will try those settings you have suggested and see how it sounds.
Ok As you suggested I will set the sub to 4 ohm configuration, should I set both subs to 4 ohm?
I apologize but I checked I have to get 6 1/2" rear speaker size for my car. I am stuck between 2 as I said in my previous post. Please let me know what you think is better between the two?
I am planning to buy a MTX 4-Channel Amplifier (TC4004)? Would that be a good fit for my audio system?
I think Once I have all this my audio system should be perfect and sound loud and clear??
kirchatndftbl on 12/30/2008 09:02:57
if your planning on getting a 4 channel amp for the interior speakers i suggest that you run a 4ga power wire into a distrobution block that has 8ga outs on it...
ttocs on 12/30/2008 09:14:10
again your asking the wrong person which infinity to choose as I have just never been keen on them. I would ask you which sounds better to you as that is all that matters and I have never bought a speaker I could not hear first..... I have never paid any attention to the rms or peak power rating of any speaker either.
I would set the switch to 4 ohms and then wire them in parallel where all the speaker +s toghter to the amps +, and the same with all th e -s and that will put the speakers in parallel and allow the amp to see a 2 ohm load. This will double your bass as long as you have the new sub in the same sized box as the first one.
swez on 12/30/2008 12:26:00
Good, we're firing on all cylinders here.
The MTX TC4004 is a very good choice for full range use. It's got the right features and power to spare @ 2 ohms per channel.
As for speaker choices, many like the Infinity Comps up front and Coaxials in rear. They both come in 2-ohm models too. That will give you plenty of clean power from the TC-4004 amp.
When installing speakers of this power range, it's best to add sound damping materials to the front doors. Ttocs knows the brands well and can suggest some good products at reasonable prices. The more quiet the interior, the better sound quality we get.
As for the bass engine, a single sub is enough to get the job done in this small car. Yes, you can always add a 2nd matching sub/box if you want a few extra dB's of low end bass. Either way, set the selector for 4 ohms on 1 or dual subs as noted by ttocs methods earlier.
As Kirch says, you'll need to use larger power wire for a dual amp system. Save the #8 kit wiring to use later and add a length of #4 from the battery to a D-block that splits the #4 to a pair of #8 power lines. Your inline fuse value should be 100A's. (Close to the battery)
Plan on doing the Big 3 upgrade under the hood as well: (#4 gage wiring here too) Buy enough to do it all.
How old is your present battery and what is the CCA rating on the sticker? (CCA = Cold Cranking Amps) If new, 600 CCA might be enough. If older the 4 years, plan to upgrade to say +700 CCA when the budget allows. The Gel Cell systems like Optima's Red or Yellow Tops are a good option. (The Yellow is best choice for larger installs like this one) They take more punishment and last much longer than
OEM BATs.
Comments?
Swez
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
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