I have an 05 mazda 6s with the stock 9 inch bose sub in the rear deck. The subwoofer is not hitting at all. It's mounted facing up under the rear deck. If i push up on the cone while musics playing, it sounds as if it tries to play music, so i know it has power, but it wont play on its own. I don't believe it's blown, but I can't figure out anything else to try to fix it. can anyone help, or do i have to try to contact bose and see if its under warranty and hope i can get a new one? I can't find any replacment ones either.
Replies (7)
cplkittle on 12/19/2008 04:10:50
Sounds like it could possibly be a tinsel lead not making a good connection. Are you sure the sub it trying to move when you push on it?
If you have a multimeter, you can check the voltage on the terminals. It will probably be somewhere around 15-30 volts AC at a moderate volume. Also check the terminals for resistance with the stereo turned off.
Bose made it's name by their advances in enclosure design, not necessarily their speaker quality. You may want to consider a nicer subwoofer if this one is not under warranty. Most sub warranties are only 1 year since it is an easily damaged moving part.
Good luck with it.
Demolition on 12/19/2008 04:31:39
The sub doesn't really move at all, but it has a scratchy sound, but it does sound like music coming through, albiet the scratchiness. I might try the multimeter check first. My wife wants to have subs in it, but the HU is going to prove difficult. RCA splicing is a thought if it doesnt have hookups for them. 6 CD changer in dash i don't wanna change, but she wants something simple sub wise, so i don't know. Ive got a few setups built that she likes. everything else with the car might prove a worthy advesary for me. Thanks for the help!
swez on 12/19/2008 05:17:24
Agree w/ CPLKittle here. The factory sub probably has been damaged over the years and needs to be replaced if there is voltage to the coils, but little/no sound.
Might want to call a few dealers to find out the cost of a new sub. If that seems too expensive, try a few local "bone yards" and see what they have as a drop in replacement.
If that option seems daunting, consider an aftermarket sub w/amp to fill the void. (Infinity Bass Link)
Swez
ttocs on 12/19/2008 05:21:57
bose made most of their improvements and advancements through their marketing. A few industry saying about them are:
Lotta highs and no lows, gotta be bose.
bose - better sound through marketing.
I agree with the possible tensil lead myself. Bose factory equipment has NEVER been known for longevity and there is even a place that specialized in repairing their stuff/crap. Check a couple of your local auto security places and see if they do this.
Demolition on 12/19/2008 14:11:52
Cool. Thanks for all the help. My wife loves the 2 JLw3v3's i had in my saturn, so i might get her one of those on a jl 500/1. I want to get 2 Orion HCCA 10's for the SPL contests, not sure on what amp I'll run though. Goin' with the 10's so I can stay in my class of 2 10's or 1 12. Had one 12w3 on a JL a1400 class a/b amp and hit 140.8, which from what my shop said was amazing for the setup I had. Thanks again for all the help.
kirchatndftbl on 12/19/2008 14:45:19
for the 2 orion subs you could run 2 of these amps
(Hifonics BXi 1608D)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12211_Hifonics+BXi+1608D.html
amps rated at
1600rms @ 1ohm
subs rated at
1500rms (dual 2ohm)
cplkittle on 12/19/2008 17:33:57
As far as RCA integration, there is a little magic box that does that for you. It is called a Line Output Converter or LOC for short. Just tap into your existing speaker wires and it converts a portion of that signal to RCA outputs. If you have speakers in the rear deck, you can tap in to them there and use a short RCA cable. This is what you are looking for:
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/30046/vpid/1547197/vpcsid/0/rid/123284
Replies (7)
cplkittle on 12/19/2008 04:10:50
Sounds like it could possibly be a tinsel lead not making a good connection. Are you sure the sub it trying to move when you push on it?
If you have a multimeter, you can check the voltage on the terminals. It will probably be somewhere around 15-30 volts AC at a moderate volume. Also check the terminals for resistance with the stereo turned off.
Bose made it's name by their advances in enclosure design, not necessarily their speaker quality. You may want to consider a nicer subwoofer if this one is not under warranty. Most sub warranties are only 1 year since it is an easily damaged moving part.
Good luck with it.
Demolition on 12/19/2008 04:31:39
The sub doesn't really move at all, but it has a scratchy sound, but it does sound like music coming through, albiet the scratchiness. I might try the multimeter check first. My wife wants to have subs in it, but the HU is going to prove difficult. RCA splicing is a thought if it doesnt have hookups for them. 6 CD changer in dash i don't wanna change, but she wants something simple sub wise, so i don't know. Ive got a few setups built that she likes. everything else with the car might prove a worthy advesary for me. Thanks for the help!
swez on 12/19/2008 05:17:24
Agree w/ CPLKittle here. The factory sub probably has been damaged over the years and needs to be replaced if there is voltage to the coils, but little/no sound.
Might want to call a few dealers to find out the cost of a new sub. If that seems too expensive, try a few local "bone yards" and see what they have as a drop in replacement.
If that option seems daunting, consider an aftermarket sub w/amp to fill the void. (Infinity Bass Link)
Swez
ttocs on 12/19/2008 05:21:57
bose made most of their improvements and advancements through their marketing. A few industry saying about them are:
Lotta highs and no lows, gotta be bose.
bose - better sound through marketing.
I agree with the possible tensil lead myself. Bose factory equipment has NEVER been known for longevity and there is even a place that specialized in repairing their stuff/crap. Check a couple of your local auto security places and see if they do this.
Demolition on 12/19/2008 14:11:52
Cool. Thanks for all the help. My wife loves the 2 JLw3v3's i had in my saturn, so i might get her one of those on a jl 500/1. I want to get 2 Orion HCCA 10's for the SPL contests, not sure on what amp I'll run though. Goin' with the 10's so I can stay in my class of 2 10's or 1 12. Had one 12w3 on a JL a1400 class a/b amp and hit 140.8, which from what my shop said was amazing for the setup I had. Thanks again for all the help.
kirchatndftbl on 12/19/2008 14:45:19
for the 2 orion subs you could run 2 of these amps
(Hifonics BXi 1608D)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12211_Hifonics+BXi+1608D.html
amps rated at
1600rms @ 1ohm
subs rated at
1500rms (dual 2ohm)
cplkittle on 12/19/2008 17:33:57
As far as RCA integration, there is a little magic box that does that for you. It is called a Line Output Converter or LOC for short. Just tap into your existing speaker wires and it converts a portion of that signal to RCA outputs. If you have speakers in the rear deck, you can tap in to them there and use a short RCA cable. This is what you are looking for:
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/SFV/30046/vpid/1547197/vpcsid/0/rid/123284
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