I will start off that I used to into stereo's and installing them but have fallen off the wagon over the year's. last night I picked up nickelbacks new cd and now I will just say my system's is not going to make the grade anymore.
I currently have a regular cab chevy 2500hd with a premier 760 hd kick 800.2 running a single l5 in a ported box. al just cheapie componets.
I just picked up a kicker 300.2 for components but I have not purchased those yet but I'm looking at bostons pro series 6.0s.
now to get to my problem. I normally don't run much volume in my truck so I never worried about it before but my l5 in he ported box distorts to easy for me. it sounds good till then but at about 300 watts then it really break's up. I'm going to get rid of he box and go to a sealed box as I had one before and it did sound better at higher volume. I do have cheap wires on this amp that I also need to upgrade when I install me 300 and componet's.
my main concern is I need to get the system sounding good to my liking. I'm wondering if maybe I should think about upgrading the hu or sub in my system or if with a better box and wire's that I'll be able to clear up my system.
I'm also wondering if the hd with be clear enough for the components I'm planning on running. I don't want to go over the top on spending on this system if I don't have to and should not need to as I think I have a good starting point but I'm open to opinions on the subject on any problems you may foresee me running into.
also if you have any recommendations for components I'm all ear's but I'd like to stay under 600 for them. I've considered the mb quartz, and focal's but I think the bostons are going to be easier for me to get in my price range.
thank's for your help and I'm sorry if I sound a little long winded but I'm just getting back into the scene after about 10 year's out of it and don't want to waste money needlessly.
Replies (10)
swez on 11/22/2008 05:19:23
First off, welcome to CK! CLAP
Need to break down the "Wall of Text" here and then use sub topics so we can understand each item and address them individually. Mind if I do that for you this time? (It's needed and here's how)
I will start off that I used to be into stereo's and installing them but have fallen off the wagon over the year's. Last night I picked up "Nickelbacks" new cd and now I will just say my system's is not going to make the grade anymore." (Indeed, that is true)
"I currently have a regular cab chevy 2500 HD truck with a Pioneer DEH- 760MP HU. Have a Kicker 800.2 running a single Kicker L5 in a ported box. (This amp is very power hungry)
I just picked up a Kicker 300.2 for the Mid/High Components but I have not purchased those/any yet. I'm looking at Bostons Pro series 6.0s. (That's good as we may have a few other options for you to consider)
Now... to get to my problem, I normally don't run much volume in my truck so I never worried about it before. But my L5 is a ported box. It distorts too much for me. It sounds good till about 300 watts then it really break's up. I'm going to get rid of he box and go to a sealed box as I had one before and it did sound better at higher volume (That's a good option for a smaller and more compact sub system that sounds tight and accuurate)
I do have cheap wires on this amp. I also need to upgrade when I install the Kicker 300.2 and componets. My main concern is that I need to get the system sounding good to my liking. I'm wondering if maybe I should think about upgrading the HU, sub in my system or if with a better box and wire's that I'll be able to clear up my system? (Perhaps, but it may be the lack of power to your amp(s) that is plaguing you now)
I'm also wondering if the HU will be clean enough for the components I'm planning to run? I don't want to go over the top on spending on this system if I don't have to. I think I have a good starting point but I'm open to opinions on the subject on any problems you may foresee running into. (This HU was/is one of Pioneer's better products in its day. It may have more to do with power startvation to the amp(s) and not the HU)
Also, if you have any recommendations for components I'm all ear's! But, I'd like to stay under $600 for them. I've considered the MB Quartz and Focal Comps, but think the Boston's are going to be easier for me to get in my price range. (There are other options in the mix to consider. (All the Comps you mentioned are premium priced, but may not be needed to get quality sound later)
Thank's for your help. Have been out of the scene for 10 years and don't want to waste money needlessly. (We'd all agree on that one)
How's that read to you?
Swez
swez on 11/22/2008 06:16:26
Now, some suggestions for the Gold's here will be plenty and consise.
Let's look at your "Bass Engine" phase 1st. The amp mentioned is very strong and a very nice sub too.
I suspect your vehicle's electrical system is not coping well with power demands of the Kicker 800.2, when you dial up the Bass Power. If the electricals cannot keep up, you'll get massive distortion issues. The amp may be starving for power above a given limit. (Say more about your vehicle and the electrical system? )
We need to know if there is adequate power to feed the 800.2 and the pending 300.2 as well. (It seems not from initial comments) Here, it would be advisable to use #1/0 power cable from the BAT, to a D-block
and split the 800.2 with #4 gage power and ground and the posed 300.3 to use #8 power and ground.
Also, sealed box is best for more accurate bass output. However, if there's not enough juice to feed the amp, it does not matter what enclosure design is used. (The L5 sub mentioned, which model # do you have now?)
We'll stop here for now and concentrate on the Bass Engine and power delivery issues first. Have you replaced the BAT in this truck yet? (If the BAT is 4 years old or more, that may be a big part of your problem) Most factory batteries last about 4-5 years before they don't hold a good charge. If that is your situation, consider a high "CCA Rated" Optima Redtop as a replacement. Here, a 750 CCA rated BAT or higher is recommended)
Comments?
Swez
PS Let other Gold's comment as they see fit. The better the picture we have about your system, the more likely we can get you back on track. We'll also address your Component System options later as well. Consider Polk, JBL, Kicker and Infinity as robust, yet solid Comp options. JBL and Infinity offer 2-Ohm Comps that don't need a large amp to get them up to snuff.
dogger on 11/22/2008 14:28:10
Right now I'm running a optima deep cell battery (don't remember if it's a yellow or red top but it's over 750cc amps) and have been since installing the amp. I do have the stock alternator not sure if this will need upgraded with the 300.2 being added or not.
For wiring right now I have 2 gauge from the top post of the battery going through a 150w fuse all the way to the amp. the amp draws 120w.(stock gm side post with factory wiring) I will say I was never truly happy with the ground on this setup though and I think I'm going to run a ground directly back to the battery to help with a weak ground and hopefully noise.
the l5 is the newer model when they came out with the l7. not really that new now though but in very good shape.
I got very lucky today also. I stopped in by accident in a local stereo store that's going out of business and was able to pick up a set of focal 165 cvx coaxials for 60% off. needless to say I didn't walk by.
I hope I was able to fill in the details a little bite here. thanks again
swez on 11/22/2008 20:14:46
Good feedback here. If you have the deep cycle Optima, it's likely the Yellow Top version. The Red Top is used for start functions and does well too, but the Yellow Top is a "Deep Cycle" design.
If this system is getting a clean signal from the HU and adequate power from the electricals, your bass should be very strong and clean. (Enough to give a full body massage) If not, something's not working right.
Do you have a meter handy to read the voltages at the input side of this amp? (A steady 13.5 volts DC or higher is the target, when the engine is running) That would tell us your electricals are doing the job. If not, we need to figure out why not.
Also, how did you wire this sub to the mentioned amp? I am guessing you have the older KX800.2 here? Manual: Print a copy and keep it handy as you work.
http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/02KX300_400_500_800_2AmpManual.pdf
This manual is very comprehensive and shows many options on how to get the most out of the amp. (Kicker is a premium piece of gear and designed to take some serious punishment, yet come back for more... Good amp choice here)
Now, this L5 sub mentioned, what version model # is it? (2+2 or 4+4 Dual Voice Coils?) And, how is it wired to the amp? (One coil per channel or amp is bridged Mono to sub?)
The desired configuration is the 2+2 DVC sub model, (Coils wired in series for a net 4 ohm load and the amp is bridged for MONO use)
I'll stop here and await your comments before we go deeper,
Swez
dogger on 11/23/2008 01:43:43
right now I'm running the sub in stereo at 2 ohm's (dVC 2OHM) I could wire it up bridged 4 ohm easy enough if you think it'll make a difference. when I installed I just figrured on stereo would be alright.
the bass is strong and you can feel it very well and that's with the sub mounted behind the passenger seat. I was poking around it last night and I think the box may be a big part of the problem. I had built it to spec's a couple of year's ago but it has about 2.0 cubic feet air space with a 6 by 14 inch port. when turned up the base is getting pretty muddy and also causing a couple rattles I need to track down but I think I know were that's coming from.
the amp is the older kx800.2 I've had it since 2001 I think. I can get my multi meter on today to see what kind of power it's drawling I do need batteries for it I don't use it much.
swez on 11/23/2008 04:17:03
Yes, either stereo as mentioned or bridged MONO is fine. Either way, the sub is being fed the same power from this amp.
The box may indeed be a big part of your problem, depending on the total port area. A quick check/fix would be to make a cover plate for the port and convert it to a sealed enclosure. You will lose some bump at the port tuning frequency, (PTF) but sealed will help pressurize the box and keep the sub cone from excess distortion and over-excursion.
If your truck has a voltage gage in the dash panel, this will tell what the ALT is doing as bass hits come. If you see a steady 13-14 volts w/o the bass and it dips to 11 volts or less when the bass is on and heavy, the voltage drop shows your electrical system is not keeping up with the amps' power draw. That would explain the muddy bass at higher listening levels.
Also, your dash meter may be right on target as it monitors the output from the ALT/BAT. But what the amp is getting at the input side tells the rest of the story. A poor ground can/will cause this. We recommend a bare metal ground to the floorpan in most cases and keep it as short as possible. (Under 3 feet) Most guys do well with using one of the seatbelt bolts after they "burnish" off the paint, rust and such to bare metal. (Wire wheel attached to a drill motor does a nice job in short order) The nuts are often welded to the floorpan and provide good grounding.
Tech Tip: I bench tested an amp with a 12.4 volt battery pack a while back. I hooked up a meter to monitor the input voltage supply as well. At low volume, the bass was clear and solid. As I turned up the volume, the meter voltage dropped below 11 volts and the bass became muddy and high distortion as well. Why? The amp was starving for power!
Oh, which Kicker L5 are you using here? (2+2 DVC, but what size?)
Okay, will let you chew on and investigate the items listed above and wait for your feedback.
Swez COFFEE
PS It's refreshing to have a willing student with the right tools on hand to converse with. Your responses are great, to the point and enough detail to figure out what's going on. I enjoy working with guys like you! CLAP
cplkittle on 11/23/2008 17:27:45
You wrote:
For wiring right now I have 2 gauge from the top post of the battery going through a 150w fuse all the way to the amp. the amp draws 120w.(stock gm side post with factory wiring) I will say I was never truly happy with the ground on this setup though and I think I'm going to run a ground directly back to the battery to help with a weak ground and hopefully noise.
Don't run the ground back to the battery.. too long of a run and a waste of money. The ground should be very short (under 18" if possible), and securely fastened to a clean, bare metal spot near the amp. Use a wire brush to scrape away paint for a good metal to metal connection.
If you are having alot of alternator whine, it could very likely be the quality and location of the RCA cables. You need a decent (not the cheapest) set of shielded, twisted pair RCA cables, and they need to be run to the amp on the opposite side of the vehicle than the power wire.
If a new solid ground and moving the RCA cables does not fix the engine noise, it is probably a problem with the head unit. In the past we have seen a trend with Pioneer head units not having a good ground on the RCA outputs. They need to be regrounded.
dogger on 11/28/2008 03:07:47
alright sorry for being away for a while. I'm a otr trucker. I did reground my amp and it seems to help out a good bit. I also checked the draw with the dash volt meter and it doesn't move under high load. good 14v.
btw the kicker is a 12" but I'm starting to think I'd like to do two 10"s on the same amp right now.
the power wire I run down my passanger side of the truck with the remote wire. the rca's are on my driver's side. I tend to be a little anole about details like that but it alway's seems to pay off in the long run. regrounding the rca's is something I hope I won't have to do I still need to upgrade the rca's first.
I did install my focal's last weekend and reest all my crossover's, gain's and eq setting's and I did get it sounding really good. the main issue now should be my box. I just am not able to get the volume out of it clearly. I did get more out of it after I reset everything but I think I need to upgrade to get a little better. I'm also thinking in doing so I'd like to replace the sub with two 10's right now for a little better respond and volume. Sealed box also. just wondering if there's any you'd recommend to pick up or to look at I'm not even sure what I want yet though.
btw I think I've about worn out my nickelback cd it just sounds so good right now in my truck hehe
dogger on 11/28/2008 03:11:00
I forgot to mention. I'm running the focal's off the head unit right now because they are plenty loud enough right now. I'm not able to turn the bass up beyond and drown out the components because it's just not clear. hopefully that can give you a idea just how distorted the sub is right now.
swez on 11/29/2008 01:33:07
It's difficult to diagnose the poor sub performance w/o seeing the install and knowing the tuning frequency of the port. A poorly matched box to a great amp and sub, can cause this too.
Since the sub is mounted behind the passenger seats, it's best for the sub and port to fire up toward the roof of the cabin. If the sub and port fire into the seats or rear wall, at high bass levels, the bass will bounce right back to the cone and sounds pretty bad at higher SPL levels.
The other side of the picture is the clarity of signal the amp is getting and how clean it reproduces the input signal off the RCA's. Here, testing the box on a known good system may help a lot. That could help narrow things down as well.
The last thought is bench testing the amp to make sure it's up to snuff. A few blown output transistors are enough to produce undue distortion at louder levels as fewer transistor are sharing the work.
Comments?
Swez
PS Use the bass boost feature sparingly. (+6dB should be plenty) The LP filter is used for sub applications and generally set between 60-100 Hz. (80 Hz is the norm) The gain setting steps are outlined in the manual. (See page 7)
http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/02KX300_400_500_800_2AmpManual.pdf
I currently have a regular cab chevy 2500hd with a premier 760 hd kick 800.2 running a single l5 in a ported box. al just cheapie componets.
I just picked up a kicker 300.2 for components but I have not purchased those yet but I'm looking at bostons pro series 6.0s.
now to get to my problem. I normally don't run much volume in my truck so I never worried about it before but my l5 in he ported box distorts to easy for me. it sounds good till then but at about 300 watts then it really break's up. I'm going to get rid of he box and go to a sealed box as I had one before and it did sound better at higher volume. I do have cheap wires on this amp that I also need to upgrade when I install me 300 and componet's.
my main concern is I need to get the system sounding good to my liking. I'm wondering if maybe I should think about upgrading the hu or sub in my system or if with a better box and wire's that I'll be able to clear up my system.
I'm also wondering if the hd with be clear enough for the components I'm planning on running. I don't want to go over the top on spending on this system if I don't have to and should not need to as I think I have a good starting point but I'm open to opinions on the subject on any problems you may foresee me running into.
also if you have any recommendations for components I'm all ear's but I'd like to stay under 600 for them. I've considered the mb quartz, and focal's but I think the bostons are going to be easier for me to get in my price range.
thank's for your help and I'm sorry if I sound a little long winded but I'm just getting back into the scene after about 10 year's out of it and don't want to waste money needlessly.
Replies (10)
swez on 11/22/2008 05:19:23
First off, welcome to CK! CLAP
Need to break down the "Wall of Text" here and then use sub topics so we can understand each item and address them individually. Mind if I do that for you this time? (It's needed and here's how)
I will start off that I used to be into stereo's and installing them but have fallen off the wagon over the year's. Last night I picked up "Nickelbacks" new cd and now I will just say my system's is not going to make the grade anymore." (Indeed, that is true)
"I currently have a regular cab chevy 2500 HD truck with a Pioneer DEH- 760MP HU. Have a Kicker 800.2 running a single Kicker L5 in a ported box. (This amp is very power hungry)
I just picked up a Kicker 300.2 for the Mid/High Components but I have not purchased those/any yet. I'm looking at Bostons Pro series 6.0s. (That's good as we may have a few other options for you to consider)
Now... to get to my problem, I normally don't run much volume in my truck so I never worried about it before. But my L5 is a ported box. It distorts too much for me. It sounds good till about 300 watts then it really break's up. I'm going to get rid of he box and go to a sealed box as I had one before and it did sound better at higher volume (That's a good option for a smaller and more compact sub system that sounds tight and accuurate)
I do have cheap wires on this amp. I also need to upgrade when I install the Kicker 300.2 and componets. My main concern is that I need to get the system sounding good to my liking. I'm wondering if maybe I should think about upgrading the HU, sub in my system or if with a better box and wire's that I'll be able to clear up my system? (Perhaps, but it may be the lack of power to your amp(s) that is plaguing you now)
I'm also wondering if the HU will be clean enough for the components I'm planning to run? I don't want to go over the top on spending on this system if I don't have to. I think I have a good starting point but I'm open to opinions on the subject on any problems you may foresee running into. (This HU was/is one of Pioneer's better products in its day. It may have more to do with power startvation to the amp(s) and not the HU)
Also, if you have any recommendations for components I'm all ear's! But, I'd like to stay under $600 for them. I've considered the MB Quartz and Focal Comps, but think the Boston's are going to be easier for me to get in my price range. (There are other options in the mix to consider. (All the Comps you mentioned are premium priced, but may not be needed to get quality sound later)
Thank's for your help. Have been out of the scene for 10 years and don't want to waste money needlessly. (We'd all agree on that one)
How's that read to you?
Swez
swez on 11/22/2008 06:16:26
Now, some suggestions for the Gold's here will be plenty and consise.
Let's look at your "Bass Engine" phase 1st. The amp mentioned is very strong and a very nice sub too.
I suspect your vehicle's electrical system is not coping well with power demands of the Kicker 800.2, when you dial up the Bass Power. If the electricals cannot keep up, you'll get massive distortion issues. The amp may be starving for power above a given limit. (Say more about your vehicle and the electrical system? )
We need to know if there is adequate power to feed the 800.2 and the pending 300.2 as well. (It seems not from initial comments) Here, it would be advisable to use #1/0 power cable from the BAT, to a D-block
and split the 800.2 with #4 gage power and ground and the posed 300.3 to use #8 power and ground.
Also, sealed box is best for more accurate bass output. However, if there's not enough juice to feed the amp, it does not matter what enclosure design is used. (The L5 sub mentioned, which model # do you have now?)
We'll stop here for now and concentrate on the Bass Engine and power delivery issues first. Have you replaced the BAT in this truck yet? (If the BAT is 4 years old or more, that may be a big part of your problem) Most factory batteries last about 4-5 years before they don't hold a good charge. If that is your situation, consider a high "CCA Rated" Optima Redtop as a replacement. Here, a 750 CCA rated BAT or higher is recommended)
Comments?
Swez
PS Let other Gold's comment as they see fit. The better the picture we have about your system, the more likely we can get you back on track. We'll also address your Component System options later as well. Consider Polk, JBL, Kicker and Infinity as robust, yet solid Comp options. JBL and Infinity offer 2-Ohm Comps that don't need a large amp to get them up to snuff.
dogger on 11/22/2008 14:28:10
Right now I'm running a optima deep cell battery (don't remember if it's a yellow or red top but it's over 750cc amps) and have been since installing the amp. I do have the stock alternator not sure if this will need upgraded with the 300.2 being added or not.
For wiring right now I have 2 gauge from the top post of the battery going through a 150w fuse all the way to the amp. the amp draws 120w.(stock gm side post with factory wiring) I will say I was never truly happy with the ground on this setup though and I think I'm going to run a ground directly back to the battery to help with a weak ground and hopefully noise.
the l5 is the newer model when they came out with the l7. not really that new now though but in very good shape.
I got very lucky today also. I stopped in by accident in a local stereo store that's going out of business and was able to pick up a set of focal 165 cvx coaxials for 60% off. needless to say I didn't walk by.
I hope I was able to fill in the details a little bite here. thanks again
swez on 11/22/2008 20:14:46
Good feedback here. If you have the deep cycle Optima, it's likely the Yellow Top version. The Red Top is used for start functions and does well too, but the Yellow Top is a "Deep Cycle" design.
If this system is getting a clean signal from the HU and adequate power from the electricals, your bass should be very strong and clean. (Enough to give a full body massage) If not, something's not working right.
Do you have a meter handy to read the voltages at the input side of this amp? (A steady 13.5 volts DC or higher is the target, when the engine is running) That would tell us your electricals are doing the job. If not, we need to figure out why not.
Also, how did you wire this sub to the mentioned amp? I am guessing you have the older KX800.2 here? Manual: Print a copy and keep it handy as you work.
http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/02KX300_400_500_800_2AmpManual.pdf
This manual is very comprehensive and shows many options on how to get the most out of the amp. (Kicker is a premium piece of gear and designed to take some serious punishment, yet come back for more... Good amp choice here)
Now, this L5 sub mentioned, what version model # is it? (2+2 or 4+4 Dual Voice Coils?) And, how is it wired to the amp? (One coil per channel or amp is bridged Mono to sub?)
The desired configuration is the 2+2 DVC sub model, (Coils wired in series for a net 4 ohm load and the amp is bridged for MONO use)
I'll stop here and await your comments before we go deeper,
Swez
dogger on 11/23/2008 01:43:43
right now I'm running the sub in stereo at 2 ohm's (dVC 2OHM) I could wire it up bridged 4 ohm easy enough if you think it'll make a difference. when I installed I just figrured on stereo would be alright.
the bass is strong and you can feel it very well and that's with the sub mounted behind the passenger seat. I was poking around it last night and I think the box may be a big part of the problem. I had built it to spec's a couple of year's ago but it has about 2.0 cubic feet air space with a 6 by 14 inch port. when turned up the base is getting pretty muddy and also causing a couple rattles I need to track down but I think I know were that's coming from.
the amp is the older kx800.2 I've had it since 2001 I think. I can get my multi meter on today to see what kind of power it's drawling I do need batteries for it I don't use it much.
swez on 11/23/2008 04:17:03
Yes, either stereo as mentioned or bridged MONO is fine. Either way, the sub is being fed the same power from this amp.
The box may indeed be a big part of your problem, depending on the total port area. A quick check/fix would be to make a cover plate for the port and convert it to a sealed enclosure. You will lose some bump at the port tuning frequency, (PTF) but sealed will help pressurize the box and keep the sub cone from excess distortion and over-excursion.
If your truck has a voltage gage in the dash panel, this will tell what the ALT is doing as bass hits come. If you see a steady 13-14 volts w/o the bass and it dips to 11 volts or less when the bass is on and heavy, the voltage drop shows your electrical system is not keeping up with the amps' power draw. That would explain the muddy bass at higher listening levels.
Also, your dash meter may be right on target as it monitors the output from the ALT/BAT. But what the amp is getting at the input side tells the rest of the story. A poor ground can/will cause this. We recommend a bare metal ground to the floorpan in most cases and keep it as short as possible. (Under 3 feet) Most guys do well with using one of the seatbelt bolts after they "burnish" off the paint, rust and such to bare metal. (Wire wheel attached to a drill motor does a nice job in short order) The nuts are often welded to the floorpan and provide good grounding.
Tech Tip: I bench tested an amp with a 12.4 volt battery pack a while back. I hooked up a meter to monitor the input voltage supply as well. At low volume, the bass was clear and solid. As I turned up the volume, the meter voltage dropped below 11 volts and the bass became muddy and high distortion as well. Why? The amp was starving for power!
Oh, which Kicker L5 are you using here? (2+2 DVC, but what size?)
Okay, will let you chew on and investigate the items listed above and wait for your feedback.
Swez COFFEE
PS It's refreshing to have a willing student with the right tools on hand to converse with. Your responses are great, to the point and enough detail to figure out what's going on. I enjoy working with guys like you! CLAP
cplkittle on 11/23/2008 17:27:45
You wrote:
For wiring right now I have 2 gauge from the top post of the battery going through a 150w fuse all the way to the amp. the amp draws 120w.(stock gm side post with factory wiring) I will say I was never truly happy with the ground on this setup though and I think I'm going to run a ground directly back to the battery to help with a weak ground and hopefully noise.
Don't run the ground back to the battery.. too long of a run and a waste of money. The ground should be very short (under 18" if possible), and securely fastened to a clean, bare metal spot near the amp. Use a wire brush to scrape away paint for a good metal to metal connection.
If you are having alot of alternator whine, it could very likely be the quality and location of the RCA cables. You need a decent (not the cheapest) set of shielded, twisted pair RCA cables, and they need to be run to the amp on the opposite side of the vehicle than the power wire.
If a new solid ground and moving the RCA cables does not fix the engine noise, it is probably a problem with the head unit. In the past we have seen a trend with Pioneer head units not having a good ground on the RCA outputs. They need to be regrounded.
dogger on 11/28/2008 03:07:47
alright sorry for being away for a while. I'm a otr trucker. I did reground my amp and it seems to help out a good bit. I also checked the draw with the dash volt meter and it doesn't move under high load. good 14v.
btw the kicker is a 12" but I'm starting to think I'd like to do two 10"s on the same amp right now.
the power wire I run down my passanger side of the truck with the remote wire. the rca's are on my driver's side. I tend to be a little anole about details like that but it alway's seems to pay off in the long run. regrounding the rca's is something I hope I won't have to do I still need to upgrade the rca's first.
I did install my focal's last weekend and reest all my crossover's, gain's and eq setting's and I did get it sounding really good. the main issue now should be my box. I just am not able to get the volume out of it clearly. I did get more out of it after I reset everything but I think I need to upgrade to get a little better. I'm also thinking in doing so I'd like to replace the sub with two 10's right now for a little better respond and volume. Sealed box also. just wondering if there's any you'd recommend to pick up or to look at I'm not even sure what I want yet though.
btw I think I've about worn out my nickelback cd it just sounds so good right now in my truck hehe
dogger on 11/28/2008 03:11:00
I forgot to mention. I'm running the focal's off the head unit right now because they are plenty loud enough right now. I'm not able to turn the bass up beyond and drown out the components because it's just not clear. hopefully that can give you a idea just how distorted the sub is right now.
swez on 11/29/2008 01:33:07
It's difficult to diagnose the poor sub performance w/o seeing the install and knowing the tuning frequency of the port. A poorly matched box to a great amp and sub, can cause this too.
Since the sub is mounted behind the passenger seats, it's best for the sub and port to fire up toward the roof of the cabin. If the sub and port fire into the seats or rear wall, at high bass levels, the bass will bounce right back to the cone and sounds pretty bad at higher SPL levels.
The other side of the picture is the clarity of signal the amp is getting and how clean it reproduces the input signal off the RCA's. Here, testing the box on a known good system may help a lot. That could help narrow things down as well.
The last thought is bench testing the amp to make sure it's up to snuff. A few blown output transistors are enough to produce undue distortion at louder levels as fewer transistor are sharing the work.
Comments?
Swez
PS Use the bass boost feature sparingly. (+6dB should be plenty) The LP filter is used for sub applications and generally set between 60-100 Hz. (80 Hz is the norm) The gain setting steps are outlined in the manual. (See page 7)
http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/02KX300_400_500_800_2AmpManual.pdf
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