Ok guys everything you have provided me so far is the best. now i have one issues of everything going on protect and shutting down and resetting. I have the clarion EQ, kenwood Excellon deck, and all jbl gto series 3.5" and 6.5" now those work great.
Now i recently hook but my jbl 700.1 amp and my two 12" jbl gt5-12s, now i was tuning it and when i did it would hit hard bass and cut the whole system off. Everything is hooked into the eq and i think i know what the problem is.
A while ago swez, you told me to put in a relay, i dont think i did. could that be feeding too much power into the eq and shutting it down along wit the headunit and other speakers, because if so that is what i need and i would ask for help installing that then tuning my system efficiently.
If you could get back to me asap id greatly appreciate it since i would like to try and fix it on my only off day tomorrow. if you need more information let me know and i will get back to you as soon as possible.
Zach
Replies (14)
Zach1989 on 09/10/2008 05:30:38
Ok i relooked at my old posts and did some research on relays io see the diagrams you are tlaking about, but how in the world am i supposed to hook it up to the EQ or was it supposed to go to the HU?
I am so lost if someone can clarify for me.
I got my 20A amp hook into the 6.5"s in the back the rcas here hook into the EQ, and the 25A X 3 Amp ont he 2 12"s int he back the RCAs here also hook into the subwoofer control on the EQ.
Then an input wire goes from the EQ to the HU so would that mean id have to put a relay on the EQ, and if so how would i hook it up right?
swez on 09/10/2008 08:04:11
See 2 things you may need to look at while deceifering this one:
1. Measure the input voltage supply to your amps, HU & EQ. (If below 11.0 volts, things get iffy)
2. The HU can only support about 250-300 mA's of current draw off the HU REMote lead. (If you have more than that, [2 devices or more] it's best to use a relay trigger line for the EQ, and all amps)
Installing a relay is pretty simple and cheap. The relay has its own power lead and ground and can support 20 A's or more as needed to turn on your amps and EQ.
If you don't have a relay installed now, it's time! Need more help? Just ask OK?
Swez
Zach1989 on 09/10/2008 15:38:49
Yeah i have two rem. turn ons going into the head unit and a remote turn on for the EQ as well into the hu so i guess that would mean wire a rem turn on for the two amps and EQ up to the relay as the green wire in the diagram, the red and black wires arte the EQs power and the blue one is that ones remote turn on correct?
Now when i wire into a relay do i have to run wires somewhere else or just into the relay? i am confused on where it goes AFTER wiring it into the relay, thanks for your help again.
swez on 09/10/2008 23:05:43
Good info and yes, you will need a relay to power all 3 devices mentioned. (2 amps and the EQ) It just depends on "where" you wish to install the relay.
To gain familiarity with relays, have a good look at this site topic and study it for understanding: (Famous Bosch Relay section)
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
In a nutshell, we use a low wattage circuit, (HU REM) as the solinoid trigger and a high wattage line from the battery/D-Block to carry the REMote loads. Now, let's go wire by wire to get the job done with minimal effort, yet electrically correct. Consider this plan:
1. Terminal 86 is the primary ground lug
2. Terminal 87 is now the "REMote Feeder" lug for 2 amps and EQ
3. Terminal 30 is your B+ lug from the D-Block/BAT (High Wattage)
4. Terminal 87A is not used
5. Terminal 85 is your (Low Wattage) REMote feed wire "from" the HU to energize the coils switch of the relay (Closes solinoid only)
As I see this, why not use the D-block, 2 REMote lines installed, (To/From) HU to power the EQ and Solinoid trigger lines.
Got all that?
Swez
PS This relay can be purchased at any autoparts dealer and a wiring pigtail for it makes the job simple. Expect both to cost about $6.00 plus fuses and power line to the battery. (#12 gage is fine) A SPST relay is what you need. (5 wires in all)
Zach1989 on 09/11/2008 11:09:33
ok i got the steps, what is d-block? and the primary ground lug, where do they go?
I know that 87 will be the three rem turn ons for the amps and eq, and the remote feed form hu is 85. so does that mean that number 86 is a random ground i can use and terminal 30 would be the power run to the battery? if that is correct then i can correctly install it.
Also if you could tell me a brand name or maybe part number because i do not want to get the wrong one or any little bit of info on brand and what to ask for would be best thanks.....
thanks for your responce swez i am almost done and would like to put pics up to show you how well everything turned out when its complete.
kirchatndftbl on 09/11/2008 11:37:47
d-block= distribution block
Zach1989 on 09/11/2008 14:19:21
Ok i did some more research, the only two i do not get is terminal 87 and terminal 30.
would 30 also connect to 87 but 30 routes to the amps and EQ?
im lost about the connections im sorry if you could be more specific im probably thinking too hard or overlooking haha.
ohhhhhhh wait, terminal 86 is grounded, terminal 85 is the remote turn on from hu, thirty is the distribution block ( do i need a dblock piece or can i adjoin all three into one by a single like solder or other connection?) piece where ill hook up the remote turn ons for the 2 amps and EQ, and the terminal 87 is going to the battery with a 20 amp inline fuse which will power both when u turn it on so terminal 30 is activated as the rem turn on for the HU turns on?
swez on 09/12/2008 09:04:25
Have a simplified plan to share w/ you this weekend. Hold off on your work so that I can walk you through the "traditional steps" OK?
Will give you a outline and the basic steps as needed. Review them and ask queations as needed.
Swez
PS If you want block diagrams and such, just leave an e-mail addy so I can forward them as needed. (Do you have MS Power Point?)
Zach1989 on 09/13/2008 14:43:50
Yeah i have powerpoint but there is one funny thing about the system.
The protect would come on and cut the whole system off when heavy bass hit, that was with the car only on the Ign. key. I started my car up and went down the road and the bass hit hard.
Yet there was no lights dimming or cut outs and the sub is only tuned halfway, should i try to keep car running tune to potential and see what happens?
or would relay just be another safeguard for me "just in case"
thanks
Zach
swez on 09/13/2008 21:29:18
Great QUESTION and observations! I see 2 key issues to protect your amps and electrical system at large.
The reason your bass amp shuts off, is due to "low voltage" as it only gets power from the battery in IGN mode. You can proof this out with a voltage meter. Once the amps' input voltage drops below ~10.5 - 11.0 volts DC, it will shut off. (High current draw, low voltage protection circuits will activate) Batteries operate at 12.0 -12.6 Volts DC but have limited current storage capacity without charging benefits from the ALT.
1. When the engine is running, the ALT brings up the voltage and current to keep things going. Most ALT's will deliver a solid 13.5 - 14.4 Volts DC. (Current/Voltage output are based on the ALT's rotation rates)
Yes, as we set amp gains for optimal output, amplifier wattage output will change too.
2. Most HU REMote output leads are limited to 0.250 - 0.300 A's of current before the Rem chip overheats and eventually stops working. (The REM chip fries)
To prevent this, we use a relay circuit to protect the REM chip . That's why it's best to add a relay circuit when 3 or more devices are powered off the REM. (2 amplifiers and EQ)
Tech Tip: Strong Bass amps need adequate wattage, (Volts x Amperes) on the supply side to give optimal output wattage to the sub(s). If the supply side is not up to demand, the Bass Engine will be the first system to shut down.
Got all that?
Swez
PS This is a mysterious subject for non-ETechs. All We can do is give you the basics and ask that you follow the recommendation. Otherwise, the student is taking chances that can damage their entire electrical system. (We don't want to see that happen)
Zach1989 on 09/14/2008 16:47:55
Ok i will still plan on putting the relay in as followed hopefully maybe tomorrow if not by wednesday then i can really tune and get the system bumpin to the right amount.
Which wires go where, and please be as specific as possible, unless the earlier post it did was correct then i can take it from there, thanks swez you really are my audio lifesaver, everything has worked so well together and for the price it is unbelievable.
swez on 09/15/2008 20:34:27
Revised wiring notes for your relay:
1. Terminal 86 is grounded
2. Terminal 87 is new "REMote Feeder" for 2 amps and EQ
3. Terminal 30 is your B+ lug from the BAT + terminal
4. Terminal 87A is not used
5. Terminal 85 is the HU REMote feed wire "from" the HU to energize the coil switch of the relay (Closes solinoid only)
For proper wiring connections, see this diagram:
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
Swez
Zach1989 on 09/17/2008 14:19:13
alright everything clicked with me its clear how I need to wire it, hopefully this weekend once again thanks swez for all the input. this weekend im going to post some pics for all of you to see. It really turned out wonderful.
I couldnt have done it without the help of all of you from clubknowledge, this is a great site and must stay around for a long time. haha thanks everyone involved in helping my process along.
swez on 09/17/2008 22:21:51
Cool... I was hoping the IDEA bulb would come on soon about the wiring guide for the relay. Just take your time, map it out metally and on paper and then have at it.
Swez COFFEE
Now i recently hook but my jbl 700.1 amp and my two 12" jbl gt5-12s, now i was tuning it and when i did it would hit hard bass and cut the whole system off. Everything is hooked into the eq and i think i know what the problem is.
A while ago swez, you told me to put in a relay, i dont think i did. could that be feeding too much power into the eq and shutting it down along wit the headunit and other speakers, because if so that is what i need and i would ask for help installing that then tuning my system efficiently.
If you could get back to me asap id greatly appreciate it since i would like to try and fix it on my only off day tomorrow. if you need more information let me know and i will get back to you as soon as possible.
Zach
Replies (14)
Zach1989 on 09/10/2008 05:30:38
Ok i relooked at my old posts and did some research on relays io see the diagrams you are tlaking about, but how in the world am i supposed to hook it up to the EQ or was it supposed to go to the HU?
I am so lost if someone can clarify for me.
I got my 20A amp hook into the 6.5"s in the back the rcas here hook into the EQ, and the 25A X 3 Amp ont he 2 12"s int he back the RCAs here also hook into the subwoofer control on the EQ.
Then an input wire goes from the EQ to the HU so would that mean id have to put a relay on the EQ, and if so how would i hook it up right?
swez on 09/10/2008 08:04:11
See 2 things you may need to look at while deceifering this one:
1. Measure the input voltage supply to your amps, HU & EQ. (If below 11.0 volts, things get iffy)
2. The HU can only support about 250-300 mA's of current draw off the HU REMote lead. (If you have more than that, [2 devices or more] it's best to use a relay trigger line for the EQ, and all amps)
Installing a relay is pretty simple and cheap. The relay has its own power lead and ground and can support 20 A's or more as needed to turn on your amps and EQ.
If you don't have a relay installed now, it's time! Need more help? Just ask OK?
Swez
Zach1989 on 09/10/2008 15:38:49
Yeah i have two rem. turn ons going into the head unit and a remote turn on for the EQ as well into the hu so i guess that would mean wire a rem turn on for the two amps and EQ up to the relay as the green wire in the diagram, the red and black wires arte the EQs power and the blue one is that ones remote turn on correct?
Now when i wire into a relay do i have to run wires somewhere else or just into the relay? i am confused on where it goes AFTER wiring it into the relay, thanks for your help again.
swez on 09/10/2008 23:05:43
Good info and yes, you will need a relay to power all 3 devices mentioned. (2 amps and the EQ) It just depends on "where" you wish to install the relay.
To gain familiarity with relays, have a good look at this site topic and study it for understanding: (Famous Bosch Relay section)
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
In a nutshell, we use a low wattage circuit, (HU REM) as the solinoid trigger and a high wattage line from the battery/D-Block to carry the REMote loads. Now, let's go wire by wire to get the job done with minimal effort, yet electrically correct. Consider this plan:
1. Terminal 86 is the primary ground lug
2. Terminal 87 is now the "REMote Feeder" lug for 2 amps and EQ
3. Terminal 30 is your B+ lug from the D-Block/BAT (High Wattage)
4. Terminal 87A is not used
5. Terminal 85 is your (Low Wattage) REMote feed wire "from" the HU to energize the coils switch of the relay (Closes solinoid only)
As I see this, why not use the D-block, 2 REMote lines installed, (To/From) HU to power the EQ and Solinoid trigger lines.
Got all that?
Swez
PS This relay can be purchased at any autoparts dealer and a wiring pigtail for it makes the job simple. Expect both to cost about $6.00 plus fuses and power line to the battery. (#12 gage is fine) A SPST relay is what you need. (5 wires in all)
Zach1989 on 09/11/2008 11:09:33
ok i got the steps, what is d-block? and the primary ground lug, where do they go?
I know that 87 will be the three rem turn ons for the amps and eq, and the remote feed form hu is 85. so does that mean that number 86 is a random ground i can use and terminal 30 would be the power run to the battery? if that is correct then i can correctly install it.
Also if you could tell me a brand name or maybe part number because i do not want to get the wrong one or any little bit of info on brand and what to ask for would be best thanks.....
thanks for your responce swez i am almost done and would like to put pics up to show you how well everything turned out when its complete.
kirchatndftbl on 09/11/2008 11:37:47
d-block= distribution block
Zach1989 on 09/11/2008 14:19:21
Ok i did some more research, the only two i do not get is terminal 87 and terminal 30.
would 30 also connect to 87 but 30 routes to the amps and EQ?
im lost about the connections im sorry if you could be more specific im probably thinking too hard or overlooking haha.
ohhhhhhh wait, terminal 86 is grounded, terminal 85 is the remote turn on from hu, thirty is the distribution block ( do i need a dblock piece or can i adjoin all three into one by a single like solder or other connection?) piece where ill hook up the remote turn ons for the 2 amps and EQ, and the terminal 87 is going to the battery with a 20 amp inline fuse which will power both when u turn it on so terminal 30 is activated as the rem turn on for the HU turns on?
swez on 09/12/2008 09:04:25
Have a simplified plan to share w/ you this weekend. Hold off on your work so that I can walk you through the "traditional steps" OK?
Will give you a outline and the basic steps as needed. Review them and ask queations as needed.
Swez
PS If you want block diagrams and such, just leave an e-mail addy so I can forward them as needed. (Do you have MS Power Point?)
Zach1989 on 09/13/2008 14:43:50
Yeah i have powerpoint but there is one funny thing about the system.
The protect would come on and cut the whole system off when heavy bass hit, that was with the car only on the Ign. key. I started my car up and went down the road and the bass hit hard.
Yet there was no lights dimming or cut outs and the sub is only tuned halfway, should i try to keep car running tune to potential and see what happens?
or would relay just be another safeguard for me "just in case"
thanks
Zach
swez on 09/13/2008 21:29:18
Great QUESTION and observations! I see 2 key issues to protect your amps and electrical system at large.
The reason your bass amp shuts off, is due to "low voltage" as it only gets power from the battery in IGN mode. You can proof this out with a voltage meter. Once the amps' input voltage drops below ~10.5 - 11.0 volts DC, it will shut off. (High current draw, low voltage protection circuits will activate) Batteries operate at 12.0 -12.6 Volts DC but have limited current storage capacity without charging benefits from the ALT.
1. When the engine is running, the ALT brings up the voltage and current to keep things going. Most ALT's will deliver a solid 13.5 - 14.4 Volts DC. (Current/Voltage output are based on the ALT's rotation rates)
Yes, as we set amp gains for optimal output, amplifier wattage output will change too.
2. Most HU REMote output leads are limited to 0.250 - 0.300 A's of current before the Rem chip overheats and eventually stops working. (The REM chip fries)
To prevent this, we use a relay circuit to protect the REM chip . That's why it's best to add a relay circuit when 3 or more devices are powered off the REM. (2 amplifiers and EQ)
Tech Tip: Strong Bass amps need adequate wattage, (Volts x Amperes) on the supply side to give optimal output wattage to the sub(s). If the supply side is not up to demand, the Bass Engine will be the first system to shut down.
Got all that?
Swez
PS This is a mysterious subject for non-ETechs. All We can do is give you the basics and ask that you follow the recommendation. Otherwise, the student is taking chances that can damage their entire electrical system. (We don't want to see that happen)
Zach1989 on 09/14/2008 16:47:55
Ok i will still plan on putting the relay in as followed hopefully maybe tomorrow if not by wednesday then i can really tune and get the system bumpin to the right amount.
Which wires go where, and please be as specific as possible, unless the earlier post it did was correct then i can take it from there, thanks swez you really are my audio lifesaver, everything has worked so well together and for the price it is unbelievable.
swez on 09/15/2008 20:34:27
Revised wiring notes for your relay:
1. Terminal 86 is grounded
2. Terminal 87 is new "REMote Feeder" for 2 amps and EQ
3. Terminal 30 is your B+ lug from the BAT + terminal
4. Terminal 87A is not used
5. Terminal 85 is the HU REMote feed wire "from" the HU to energize the coil switch of the relay (Closes solinoid only)
For proper wiring connections, see this diagram:
http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm
Swez
Zach1989 on 09/17/2008 14:19:13
alright everything clicked with me its clear how I need to wire it, hopefully this weekend once again thanks swez for all the input. this weekend im going to post some pics for all of you to see. It really turned out wonderful.
I couldnt have done it without the help of all of you from clubknowledge, this is a great site and must stay around for a long time. haha thanks everyone involved in helping my process along.
swez on 09/17/2008 22:21:51
Cool... I was hoping the IDEA bulb would come on soon about the wiring guide for the relay. Just take your time, map it out metally and on paper and then have at it.
Swez COFFEE
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