Let me begin by warning you....the only experience I have with car audio, is pushing the power button, and sliding in a CD! So if you're up for the challange....Here's my problem...The previous owner of my Ford F150 left me a tangled ball of wires behind the dash. There are 3 different sets of wires, the main set belonging to the upgraded CD player he installed himself (which no longer works....and brings me to the mess I'm in now......a bad attempt of trying to install a new system!!) The other two sets of wiring I have no clue where they lead to or what purpose they have. There are two sets of wires under the back seat, each set has a red power cable and a brown ground which are still running to the battery and grounded to the body. There are a total of 8 speakers (one in each door, and 4 tweeters (1" round) two in front/back. The driver side door speaker/tweeter are somehow wired as one, and the others are done the same. So it's like I have 4 total speakers instead of 8! There is an inline fuse (80A)connected to the battery. Well, I think that does it, what a mess I've got to deal with just to have some tunes! What I want to know is should I just start fresh and gut all the old wires out, or try to determine what I have and hope it works? I have a Pioneer CD player I want to install, keeping the speakers that are already installed, and I have a box with 2 10" speakers I want to install for more boom! SO....Is it possible for me to figure this mess out, or should I just go broke and spend 3 months salary on having it done by the pro's ???? Thanks for listening to my problem. Hope someone can help! **Renee
Replies (9)
Ender2 on 09/2/2008 21:21:57
Hello Renee! and welcome to Club Knowledge!
I'm going to break down exactly what I think the previous owner was doing... What of the mess you can use... and what I think is garbage... Let's get started! :)
1.) Dash Wires
Inside the dash of most vehicles is a "Stock Car adapter", usually black or white in color... when you purchase an aftermarket Headunit (HU, or CD Player) and a Dash Kit, it should come with an adapter that connects the "Stock Car adapter" to the new aftermarket HU. The "set of wires" behind the dash is most likely the wires that will need to connect to your HU; note sometimes when people are in a hurry they simply cut these wires vs. Separate them. If this is the case do NOT be discouraged; it can be re-wired with a little knowledge, elbow grease, and a wiring diagram which are usually readily available. You also mentioned 2 more sets of wires in the dash? Clarify more please. :)
2.) Two sets of wires in the backseat.
Need more clarification here. Are there 2 wires from the battery to the backseat? And also 2 wires from the ground to the backseat? If this is the case; then we must say that the previous owner wasn't very knowledgeable (or used a second battery for a Powerhouse system (doubtful)). The only reason WHY you run a large cable from the Battery to the back of a vehicle is to power a Car Amplifier; and if we need 2 Car Amplifiers... we use a Distribution block from ONE set of wires... we don't run two separate sets of wires for two amps.
3.)About the speakers....
This is very similar to my setup and sounds quite nice. You claim that each tweeter is wired to it's Door speaker counterpart "somehow" this somehow is called a "crossover". Basically.. the Left front door speaker wire from the CD player runs into a small box.. the box tells the low frequency music to go to the door speaker and the high frequency music to go to the tweeter. As long as the speaker / tweeter set works when you hook it up to the HU, you're "good to go" as long as you LIKE the way they sound. This is repeated for all for channels, Left front, left rear etc.
In a nutshell, what I would advise you do...
1.) Clean up your current speaker situation and VERIFY that the speaker wires to your current speakers work by hooking them up to a WORKING CD Player.
2.) Upload some more intel on ANYTHING that gives you problems with Step 1 (oh boy) so we can help you get through it.
3.) Lets come up with a general idea about what you want your sound system to do (aside from the 4 channels (4 woofers, 4 tweeters))
It seems you mentioned some 10's you have laying around...
4.) Come up with a budget on how we can get what you wanted in step 3 and choose some quality products that will serve you well.
In summation, be prepared to spend a few hours straightening this mess out; in return you'll be rewarded with a new skill and some saved dollars.. If you're tight on time and good with money and don't want the new skill; take it to the pro's. :)
Might I trouble you to try and make your next post a little more reader friendly? :) Separate your main ideas / questions / information so we can navigate a little easier :) Good luck and let us know what you've decided to do! :)
swez on 09/2/2008 23:05:58
Good reply Ender!
We have a post written by a "Pro Installer" that explains in detail what to do and how to do HU installs when the factory harness was cut off:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t36
UK Installer uses a process of elimination to determine which wires do what. The only part of his method that needs tweaking is the speaker polarity issue. When the test battery is used, the helper can watch the cone movement of the larger speakers to see which direction the speaker cone moves. The polarity is correct when the cone pushes outward. Here are the factory wiring codes used for a 1998 Ford F-150:
1998 Ford F150 Pickup Truck Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green/Pink
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Black/Violet
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Blue
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 x 8
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 x 8
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Door
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
The Red power line(s) goes to the + side of the BAT and is fused. Remove the fuse for now. (External amplifier(s) were installed before) Before you remove the fuse, disconnect the Neg battery terminal.
The Brown lines are grounds for the amp(s) and can be left as is for now. Do not remove these lines as you will need them later for your sub amp.
Questions/Comments?
Swez
PS As Ender suggested, break up your topics by paragraghs or line spaces. The "Wall of Text" method is very hard to read and segment each aspect of the issues addressed. Thanks in advance!
mayORmayNOT on 09/22/2008 22:18:16
THINK
mayORmayNOT on 09/23/2008 00:15:41
Hey guys, Thnkx for the awesome suggestions!! Let me fill you in since my last reply...or should I say since my last CRY for help!!
**I removed the two Red Power wires. They were each 10 gauge and they were connected together at the in-line fuse. So I had 2 10 gauge Power wires entering the fuse capsule, a 80A fuse, and 1 10 gauge Power wire exiting the fuse capsule and connecting to the battery. I may be wrong, but that just didn't seem right....SO I did away with it.
**I then replaced it with 1 8 gauge Power cable and ran it to the rear of my truck. Was that OK to replace 2 10 gauge with 1 8 gauge??? What is the purpose for the different size gauges?
**I haven't really been able to work thru my speaker nightmare. I am considering removing my 4 mini tweeters altogether. I just don't like the sound they produce. Will it sound okay if I do this?? I mainly listen to Rap, and there's not much call for "The Tweets" so I don't think I'd even notice they were gone. But I don't want to remove them and then realize it sounds better with them and have to go back and redo it all over again. I only want to do this once...so if you say keep 'em...they stay...I'll just turn them down.......way down!!
**I have also discovered that my right/rear door speaker is not working at all. Please suggest it's just a loose wire!!! What are the steps I need to take to figure out the exact problem? Let me guess...it involves removing the door panel????
**Also my left/front door speaker crackles and cuts in /out when driving. I'm hoping again for just a loose wire behind the dash opposed to the dreaded door panel!!!
**I have 2 new Pioneer speakers (6 1/2") 4 way/HP 4 Voles (whatever that means) that I could install if above mentioned speakers are not fixable. The only problem is they're round and my current door speakers are Oval. Any suggestions on how to adjust?
**As mentioned in previous reply, I have 2 10" Ultra Linear speakers in an enclosed box. It has a semi glass front with 4 port holes. I would like to install that behind the driver seat, connected to my Alpine Amp (2/1 channel Power Amp MRV-T302 V12 DC Straight). I'm not sure if the few pieces that I do have are all going to work together.
**Once my speakers are configured, is it okay to power them thru my Pioneer HU??
Okay, I think that pretty much covers it. Let me know if more info is needed. Thnkx again in advance for all your great advice!
******Renee
swez on 09/24/2008 15:59:36
Hello Renee,
Quote: "**I then replaced it with 1 8 gauge Power cable and ran it to the rear of my truck. Was that OK to replace 2 10 gauge with 1 8 gauge??? What is the purpose for the different size gauges?"
The larger the gage wire, the more amperage the wire can carry. A set of dual #10 gage wires sugggests dual amps or a larger sub amp was used before you got this truck. (Dual #10 wires can support about 40A's per line. A single #8 line is rated for 50 A's or less)
Yes, the F-150 uses 6x8" Ovals in front and back. Fitting 6.5" rounds up front can be done, but you'll have to fabricate your own mounts. (A 1/2" thick panel of MDF and some careful trimming should do the job) You can run them off the F/R HU amps if they are 4 ohm drivers.
The Bass Engine noted indicates a Bandpass sub enclosure. You need to know how they are wired, (Series or parallel) and the net ohmic load for the pair and the RMS wattage they can handle. Knowing this, we can help pick a sub amp to match. (Alpine MRV-T302 is not a real power house for subs) That amp is ~10 years old and rated at ~250 Wrms @ 4 ohms when bridged MONO. (Not bad when coupled with a BP sub system)
As for speaker noise mentioned, it could be wiring issues or the stock speaker are worn out. Factory stock speakers last about 6-8 years and they are cheap as can be. You can confirm this by trying your 6.5" Pioneer's, powered off the HU. If the Pioneer's sound clean and crisp, the stock speakers are shot.
Swez
PS This is a big set of steps for a rookie. But if you are determined, have a tight budget and want to learn something about mobile audio systems, you've come to the right place. Just be patient as you are on a steep learning curve OK?
mayORmayNOT on 09/24/2008 16:47:32
Swez, I worked on my installing process today.....ALL DAY. 6.5 hours to be exact and didn't really accomplish much. When you said "Steep Learning Curve" that was an understatement. More like a downward spiral!!!! It's alot to learn, and what scares me is the fact of one slight mistake or tiny miscalculation and I could burn up my whole system, MAD that will probably take me weeks to finish.
I will reply a little later when I have more time to go into detail about the steps I finished today......and hopefully I did them right!!! PROUD !!!K**talk at ya later!!!
Thanks again for all your help!!! How far R you guys from Nevada????
****Renee
swez on 09/24/2008 23:23:23
Renee,
This is a complex project, but we've helped others and can help you too. It's like "How do you eat an elephant?" One bite at a time!
About that amp for your subs, what is the fuse rating on this amp? Knowing it is below 50 Amps, the #8 wire is sufficient. If the amp draws more power than that, a larger wire gage is needed.
Nevada huh? Most of our Golds are scattered throughout the US and Canada and one top Tech in India. I live in MI and our site is based in FL. We get posts from the UK, Ausie Land, South America, Mexico and other parts of the world. Oddly, this is an internationally viewed site with just under 4,000 members.
Anyway, take your time. Ask before you dive in to uncharted waters and we'll keep you swimming in shark infested waters. SMILE Keep plugging away as the results and personal satifaction will be worth it in the end.
Swez COFFEE
mayORmayNOT on 09/25/2008 01:10:08
Fuse rating.....meaning the little square one plugged into the back of the amp itself?? If yes, there is a 15 present.
The Alpine mentioned above was given to me by a friend who recently purchased a whole new system. I was told that my previous amp was history, it kept goimg from high to low range. So I had planned on using this Alpine until funds were available to buy a new one.
Maybe you could help me determine if my previous amp is still useable! I bought it new in 2003 and have been pleased with it. It's a Rockwood 4030, 500W 2-CH Mosfet/Bridgeable, built-in LPF/HPF & Crossover. and the fuse inserted is a 25.
The enclosed box also mentioned earlier was bought at the same time to work along with the amp. You asked me for the specifics on "The Bass Engine" (I assume you're refering to what I call the enclosed box?) I'm not sure. I don't remember any type of manual/paperwork at time of purchase. Come to think of it, I can't recall what the wattage is on those 10's!! Is it possible (or even advisable) for me to unfasten the plexi-glass front, remove the speaker and obtain the info that way! I'd rather not go that route....knowing my luck the screwdriver would slip.....leaving me with a hugh hole in my speaker! But if it's a major factor in getting all this installed the right way, and you can gently walk me thru it.....LET'S GO FOR IT!!!
***Renee
swez on 09/25/2008 11:30:32
That Alpine amp is pretty low budget and power. By rough calculations, it's more like 100 watts RMS bridged to a 4 om load or 50 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms per channel. (Nice for the front speakers later)
"Bass Engine" means amp and sub(s) together.
You don't have to rip the box apart to discover the ohmic load of these speakers and how they are wired. A low budget DMM, (Digital Multimeter) for ~$20.00 will tell that story. No point in removing the plexiglass look-see panel unless one sub has failed.
As for power ratings on this sub pairing, IDK!
Without model numbers of these subs, it hard to say how much power they can take. Figure about 200 watts RMS per sub as a good point of reference. They may take more if they are Dual Voice Coil models, but most low budget, Single Coil subs are low power.
FYI: In a typical Bandpass enclosure, the first hint of real trouble will be "NO BASS". The subs blow out and there's little indication of the destruction process until they stop working. (Scary huh?)
Finally, the Rockwood amp line is... well... err, uhmmm, CRAP! They use low cost components and they work OK to a point. But, they are nothing like Rockford Fosgate, MTX, Alpine, Kenwood and other brands that can take some abuse and come back for more.
Comments?
Swez (Dave)
PS As the old saying goes... "We get what we pay for". Keep that in mind as you build your system. When possible, shop forbranded names and find the best prices to meet your budget. SMILE
Replies (9)
Ender2 on 09/2/2008 21:21:57
Hello Renee! and welcome to Club Knowledge!
I'm going to break down exactly what I think the previous owner was doing... What of the mess you can use... and what I think is garbage... Let's get started! :)
1.) Dash Wires
Inside the dash of most vehicles is a "Stock Car adapter", usually black or white in color... when you purchase an aftermarket Headunit (HU, or CD Player) and a Dash Kit, it should come with an adapter that connects the "Stock Car adapter" to the new aftermarket HU. The "set of wires" behind the dash is most likely the wires that will need to connect to your HU; note sometimes when people are in a hurry they simply cut these wires vs. Separate them. If this is the case do NOT be discouraged; it can be re-wired with a little knowledge, elbow grease, and a wiring diagram which are usually readily available. You also mentioned 2 more sets of wires in the dash? Clarify more please. :)
2.) Two sets of wires in the backseat.
Need more clarification here. Are there 2 wires from the battery to the backseat? And also 2 wires from the ground to the backseat? If this is the case; then we must say that the previous owner wasn't very knowledgeable (or used a second battery for a Powerhouse system (doubtful)). The only reason WHY you run a large cable from the Battery to the back of a vehicle is to power a Car Amplifier; and if we need 2 Car Amplifiers... we use a Distribution block from ONE set of wires... we don't run two separate sets of wires for two amps.
3.)About the speakers....
This is very similar to my setup and sounds quite nice. You claim that each tweeter is wired to it's Door speaker counterpart "somehow" this somehow is called a "crossover". Basically.. the Left front door speaker wire from the CD player runs into a small box.. the box tells the low frequency music to go to the door speaker and the high frequency music to go to the tweeter. As long as the speaker / tweeter set works when you hook it up to the HU, you're "good to go" as long as you LIKE the way they sound. This is repeated for all for channels, Left front, left rear etc.
In a nutshell, what I would advise you do...
1.) Clean up your current speaker situation and VERIFY that the speaker wires to your current speakers work by hooking them up to a WORKING CD Player.
2.) Upload some more intel on ANYTHING that gives you problems with Step 1 (oh boy) so we can help you get through it.
3.) Lets come up with a general idea about what you want your sound system to do (aside from the 4 channels (4 woofers, 4 tweeters))
It seems you mentioned some 10's you have laying around...
4.) Come up with a budget on how we can get what you wanted in step 3 and choose some quality products that will serve you well.
In summation, be prepared to spend a few hours straightening this mess out; in return you'll be rewarded with a new skill and some saved dollars.. If you're tight on time and good with money and don't want the new skill; take it to the pro's. :)
Might I trouble you to try and make your next post a little more reader friendly? :) Separate your main ideas / questions / information so we can navigate a little easier :) Good luck and let us know what you've decided to do! :)
swez on 09/2/2008 23:05:58
Good reply Ender!
We have a post written by a "Pro Installer" that explains in detail what to do and how to do HU installs when the factory harness was cut off:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t36
UK Installer uses a process of elimination to determine which wires do what. The only part of his method that needs tweaking is the speaker polarity issue. When the test battery is used, the helper can watch the cone movement of the larger speakers to see which direction the speaker cone moves. The polarity is correct when the cone pushes outward. Here are the factory wiring codes used for a 1998 Ford F-150:
1998 Ford F150 Pickup Truck Car Radio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green/Pink
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Black/Violet
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Blue
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 x 8
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 x 8
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Door
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
The Red power line(s) goes to the + side of the BAT and is fused. Remove the fuse for now. (External amplifier(s) were installed before) Before you remove the fuse, disconnect the Neg battery terminal.
The Brown lines are grounds for the amp(s) and can be left as is for now. Do not remove these lines as you will need them later for your sub amp.
Questions/Comments?
Swez
PS As Ender suggested, break up your topics by paragraghs or line spaces. The "Wall of Text" method is very hard to read and segment each aspect of the issues addressed. Thanks in advance!
mayORmayNOT on 09/22/2008 22:18:16
THINK
mayORmayNOT on 09/23/2008 00:15:41
Hey guys, Thnkx for the awesome suggestions!! Let me fill you in since my last reply...or should I say since my last CRY for help!!
**I removed the two Red Power wires. They were each 10 gauge and they were connected together at the in-line fuse. So I had 2 10 gauge Power wires entering the fuse capsule, a 80A fuse, and 1 10 gauge Power wire exiting the fuse capsule and connecting to the battery. I may be wrong, but that just didn't seem right....SO I did away with it.
**I then replaced it with 1 8 gauge Power cable and ran it to the rear of my truck. Was that OK to replace 2 10 gauge with 1 8 gauge??? What is the purpose for the different size gauges?
**I haven't really been able to work thru my speaker nightmare. I am considering removing my 4 mini tweeters altogether. I just don't like the sound they produce. Will it sound okay if I do this?? I mainly listen to Rap, and there's not much call for "The Tweets" so I don't think I'd even notice they were gone. But I don't want to remove them and then realize it sounds better with them and have to go back and redo it all over again. I only want to do this once...so if you say keep 'em...they stay...I'll just turn them down.......way down!!
**I have also discovered that my right/rear door speaker is not working at all. Please suggest it's just a loose wire!!! What are the steps I need to take to figure out the exact problem? Let me guess...it involves removing the door panel????
**Also my left/front door speaker crackles and cuts in /out when driving. I'm hoping again for just a loose wire behind the dash opposed to the dreaded door panel!!!
**I have 2 new Pioneer speakers (6 1/2") 4 way/HP 4 Voles (whatever that means) that I could install if above mentioned speakers are not fixable. The only problem is they're round and my current door speakers are Oval. Any suggestions on how to adjust?
**As mentioned in previous reply, I have 2 10" Ultra Linear speakers in an enclosed box. It has a semi glass front with 4 port holes. I would like to install that behind the driver seat, connected to my Alpine Amp (2/1 channel Power Amp MRV-T302 V12 DC Straight). I'm not sure if the few pieces that I do have are all going to work together.
**Once my speakers are configured, is it okay to power them thru my Pioneer HU??
Okay, I think that pretty much covers it. Let me know if more info is needed. Thnkx again in advance for all your great advice!
******Renee
swez on 09/24/2008 15:59:36
Hello Renee,
Quote: "**I then replaced it with 1 8 gauge Power cable and ran it to the rear of my truck. Was that OK to replace 2 10 gauge with 1 8 gauge??? What is the purpose for the different size gauges?"
The larger the gage wire, the more amperage the wire can carry. A set of dual #10 gage wires sugggests dual amps or a larger sub amp was used before you got this truck. (Dual #10 wires can support about 40A's per line. A single #8 line is rated for 50 A's or less)
Yes, the F-150 uses 6x8" Ovals in front and back. Fitting 6.5" rounds up front can be done, but you'll have to fabricate your own mounts. (A 1/2" thick panel of MDF and some careful trimming should do the job) You can run them off the F/R HU amps if they are 4 ohm drivers.
The Bass Engine noted indicates a Bandpass sub enclosure. You need to know how they are wired, (Series or parallel) and the net ohmic load for the pair and the RMS wattage they can handle. Knowing this, we can help pick a sub amp to match. (Alpine MRV-T302 is not a real power house for subs) That amp is ~10 years old and rated at ~250 Wrms @ 4 ohms when bridged MONO. (Not bad when coupled with a BP sub system)
As for speaker noise mentioned, it could be wiring issues or the stock speaker are worn out. Factory stock speakers last about 6-8 years and they are cheap as can be. You can confirm this by trying your 6.5" Pioneer's, powered off the HU. If the Pioneer's sound clean and crisp, the stock speakers are shot.
Swez
PS This is a big set of steps for a rookie. But if you are determined, have a tight budget and want to learn something about mobile audio systems, you've come to the right place. Just be patient as you are on a steep learning curve OK?
mayORmayNOT on 09/24/2008 16:47:32
Swez, I worked on my installing process today.....ALL DAY. 6.5 hours to be exact and didn't really accomplish much. When you said "Steep Learning Curve" that was an understatement. More like a downward spiral!!!! It's alot to learn, and what scares me is the fact of one slight mistake or tiny miscalculation and I could burn up my whole system, MAD that will probably take me weeks to finish.
I will reply a little later when I have more time to go into detail about the steps I finished today......and hopefully I did them right!!! PROUD !!!K**talk at ya later!!!
Thanks again for all your help!!! How far R you guys from Nevada????
****Renee
swez on 09/24/2008 23:23:23
Renee,
This is a complex project, but we've helped others and can help you too. It's like "How do you eat an elephant?" One bite at a time!
About that amp for your subs, what is the fuse rating on this amp? Knowing it is below 50 Amps, the #8 wire is sufficient. If the amp draws more power than that, a larger wire gage is needed.
Nevada huh? Most of our Golds are scattered throughout the US and Canada and one top Tech in India. I live in MI and our site is based in FL. We get posts from the UK, Ausie Land, South America, Mexico and other parts of the world. Oddly, this is an internationally viewed site with just under 4,000 members.
Anyway, take your time. Ask before you dive in to uncharted waters and we'll keep you swimming in shark infested waters. SMILE Keep plugging away as the results and personal satifaction will be worth it in the end.
Swez COFFEE
mayORmayNOT on 09/25/2008 01:10:08
Fuse rating.....meaning the little square one plugged into the back of the amp itself?? If yes, there is a 15 present.
The Alpine mentioned above was given to me by a friend who recently purchased a whole new system. I was told that my previous amp was history, it kept goimg from high to low range. So I had planned on using this Alpine until funds were available to buy a new one.
Maybe you could help me determine if my previous amp is still useable! I bought it new in 2003 and have been pleased with it. It's a Rockwood 4030, 500W 2-CH Mosfet/Bridgeable, built-in LPF/HPF & Crossover. and the fuse inserted is a 25.
The enclosed box also mentioned earlier was bought at the same time to work along with the amp. You asked me for the specifics on "The Bass Engine" (I assume you're refering to what I call the enclosed box?) I'm not sure. I don't remember any type of manual/paperwork at time of purchase. Come to think of it, I can't recall what the wattage is on those 10's!! Is it possible (or even advisable) for me to unfasten the plexi-glass front, remove the speaker and obtain the info that way! I'd rather not go that route....knowing my luck the screwdriver would slip.....leaving me with a hugh hole in my speaker! But if it's a major factor in getting all this installed the right way, and you can gently walk me thru it.....LET'S GO FOR IT!!!
***Renee
swez on 09/25/2008 11:30:32
That Alpine amp is pretty low budget and power. By rough calculations, it's more like 100 watts RMS bridged to a 4 om load or 50 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms per channel. (Nice for the front speakers later)
"Bass Engine" means amp and sub(s) together.
You don't have to rip the box apart to discover the ohmic load of these speakers and how they are wired. A low budget DMM, (Digital Multimeter) for ~$20.00 will tell that story. No point in removing the plexiglass look-see panel unless one sub has failed.
As for power ratings on this sub pairing, IDK!
Without model numbers of these subs, it hard to say how much power they can take. Figure about 200 watts RMS per sub as a good point of reference. They may take more if they are Dual Voice Coil models, but most low budget, Single Coil subs are low power.
FYI: In a typical Bandpass enclosure, the first hint of real trouble will be "NO BASS". The subs blow out and there's little indication of the destruction process until they stop working. (Scary huh?)
Finally, the Rockwood amp line is... well... err, uhmmm, CRAP! They use low cost components and they work OK to a point. But, they are nothing like Rockford Fosgate, MTX, Alpine, Kenwood and other brands that can take some abuse and come back for more.
Comments?
Swez (Dave)
PS As the old saying goes... "We get what we pay for". Keep that in mind as you build your system. When possible, shop forbranded names and find the best prices to meet your budget. SMILE
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