Just upgraded my system to two alpine type x's powered by two pdx 1.1000's but havent installed anything yet because im not sure if i need a new alt, my old system was about 1600 watts rms and it worked just fine, the lights didnt even dim and all i had was a red top battery, keep in mind that the amps werent of the best quality but were still dishing out a lot of power.. anyways i was wondering if i kept the volume at lower levels and once in a while turned it up loud would i be able to keep the stock alt for now.. i really dont have the extra money to upgrade the alternator since i paid over $2000 for the system... so im thinking of playing the system at a lower level for now.. let me know what you guys think THINK
Replies (10)
newB on 07/28/2008 17:07:04
well i think you paid quite a bit for two Xs and a 1000w amp- and if you have big 3 done in 0 (or GOOD quality 4) you should be fine.
-Drew
cplkittle on 07/28/2008 17:18:19
agreed..
the big 3 upgrade should be all you need for now. You don't need to upgrade the alternator unless you are constantly putting a strain on it.
swez on 07/28/2008 18:25:08
Yes, it all depends on how hard you push the pair of PDX 1.1000 amps to each Type X subs.
As mentioned by Kit, the Big 3 upgrade will help. But at the same time, it is the level of Bass Power used on a continous basis that will tell if more electrical upgrades should be considered later.
The PDX Series amps are a breed onto their own. They are efficient with power consumed VS output wattage, but have some reliability issues to work out in Gen-2 amps to come later. Worst case, you may need to look into dedicated batteries for these amps and perhaps an ALT/Electrical upgrade later. (That depends on how hard you push these amps/subs on a long-term basis)
In the interim, install what you have and see what the results are. If the system remains trouble free, that's good enough. However, if you note severe and prolonged power shortages later, we can give you additional suggestions.
Swez
newB on 07/28/2008 19:19:19
Just get a MissingLink Module, cheaper than a new alt and will increase voltage.
you can read a lot about it here:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=20902
-Drew
MrBrownstone on 07/29/2008 03:40:27
If you are short of current, a voltage regulator won't help. All it can do is 'try' to keep voltage at a higher level, but ultimately, if there's not juice, it can't pull it out of thin air.
If the problem is fluctuating from 12.5v to 14.4...yes, it can keep it at a constant of, say 13.3...but that's assuming the load is nominal & current demand doesn't exceed supply...which is the real problem here.
Bass_bass_10 on 07/29/2008 06:21:15
oh sounds good..anyone know where i can get the wires to do the big 3 upgrade, or better yet a shop or place that would do it for me for a reasonable price, and if you guys know the price ranges for the big 3 that would help a lot too, thanks
ttocs on 07/29/2008 07:48:46
big 3 cables are nothing more then thick wire and ring terminals. I don't know of anyplace that sells them, almost any shop would be happy to charge you to do it but I don't know how much(will depend on the area). IT is an easy DIY job to be honest. I have some quick pictures on my cardomain site that show it if you want to try it yourself.
Bass_bass_10 on 07/29/2008 08:17:14
sure i'll give it a try
swez on 07/30/2008 13:36:20
It's not difficult as we leave the stock wiring as is. All that is needed is an adequate length of #4 gage wire between the following and the proper sized terminal connectors:
1. ALT output to Pos BAT terminal
2. BAT Neg to body ground point
3. Engine block to Neg Body ground
This process allows more power, less resistance in feed wires to pass current/voltage through the vehicle's electrical system. It helps to a degree and an easy/cheap option too.
One thing to note, if the amplifier(s) demand more power than the ALT/BAT can supply, this will only help a little. The BAT will not charge to full potential and remain starved until the ALT fills the BAT to full charge.
This can be done by driving the vehicle w/o the audio gear on for a time or top off the BAT with a trickle charger on a regurlar basis.
Got all that?
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 07/31/2008 08:02:30
yeah.. thanks a lot, thats all the info i need :)
ClubKnowledge does it again!
lol thanks everyone
Replies (10)
newB on 07/28/2008 17:07:04
well i think you paid quite a bit for two Xs and a 1000w amp- and if you have big 3 done in 0 (or GOOD quality 4) you should be fine.
-Drew
cplkittle on 07/28/2008 17:18:19
agreed..
the big 3 upgrade should be all you need for now. You don't need to upgrade the alternator unless you are constantly putting a strain on it.
swez on 07/28/2008 18:25:08
Yes, it all depends on how hard you push the pair of PDX 1.1000 amps to each Type X subs.
As mentioned by Kit, the Big 3 upgrade will help. But at the same time, it is the level of Bass Power used on a continous basis that will tell if more electrical upgrades should be considered later.
The PDX Series amps are a breed onto their own. They are efficient with power consumed VS output wattage, but have some reliability issues to work out in Gen-2 amps to come later. Worst case, you may need to look into dedicated batteries for these amps and perhaps an ALT/Electrical upgrade later. (That depends on how hard you push these amps/subs on a long-term basis)
In the interim, install what you have and see what the results are. If the system remains trouble free, that's good enough. However, if you note severe and prolonged power shortages later, we can give you additional suggestions.
Swez
newB on 07/28/2008 19:19:19
Just get a MissingLink Module, cheaper than a new alt and will increase voltage.
you can read a lot about it here:
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=20902
-Drew
MrBrownstone on 07/29/2008 03:40:27
If you are short of current, a voltage regulator won't help. All it can do is 'try' to keep voltage at a higher level, but ultimately, if there's not juice, it can't pull it out of thin air.
If the problem is fluctuating from 12.5v to 14.4...yes, it can keep it at a constant of, say 13.3...but that's assuming the load is nominal & current demand doesn't exceed supply...which is the real problem here.
Bass_bass_10 on 07/29/2008 06:21:15
oh sounds good..anyone know where i can get the wires to do the big 3 upgrade, or better yet a shop or place that would do it for me for a reasonable price, and if you guys know the price ranges for the big 3 that would help a lot too, thanks
ttocs on 07/29/2008 07:48:46
big 3 cables are nothing more then thick wire and ring terminals. I don't know of anyplace that sells them, almost any shop would be happy to charge you to do it but I don't know how much(will depend on the area). IT is an easy DIY job to be honest. I have some quick pictures on my cardomain site that show it if you want to try it yourself.
Bass_bass_10 on 07/29/2008 08:17:14
sure i'll give it a try
swez on 07/30/2008 13:36:20
It's not difficult as we leave the stock wiring as is. All that is needed is an adequate length of #4 gage wire between the following and the proper sized terminal connectors:
1. ALT output to Pos BAT terminal
2. BAT Neg to body ground point
3. Engine block to Neg Body ground
This process allows more power, less resistance in feed wires to pass current/voltage through the vehicle's electrical system. It helps to a degree and an easy/cheap option too.
One thing to note, if the amplifier(s) demand more power than the ALT/BAT can supply, this will only help a little. The BAT will not charge to full potential and remain starved until the ALT fills the BAT to full charge.
This can be done by driving the vehicle w/o the audio gear on for a time or top off the BAT with a trickle charger on a regurlar basis.
Got all that?
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 07/31/2008 08:02:30
yeah.. thanks a lot, thats all the info i need :)
ClubKnowledge does it again!
lol thanks everyone
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