So the old school Nakamichi will be gone in a few days. I am replacing it with a Premier 880PRS hoping that it will be what I am looking for as far as tunability. Any ideas? I have read up on that particular HU quite a bit and everyone that has owned one seems to absolutely love it.
This week, a new Memphis PR 100.4 will be hooked up in 4 channel mode to run the front component set. I am just wondering how I am going to run a channel per speaker (one to the midrange, one to the tweeter on each side)? I have never run a 4 channel amp myself.
I figure my next step after all of this is completed will be the addition of the Kicker SS component series that, for the money I can purchase them for, seem to be my best bet. Of course once I receive those, Im going to have to build baffles and do some fabrication on my doors (the books all say 6 1/2's in my doors, but they are 5 1/4" speakers). I am wondering is there anything else I might want to consider for the midranges? I was thinking maybe Boston Acoustics mid-higher level stuff.
Then after the speakers, theres the alternator and another battery. Those are will both be done before I purchase a monster sub amp thats going to pull all kinds of juice. I dunno I'm just looking to hear some opinions. Thanks.
Replies (5)
MrBrownstone on 07/11/2008 03:38:39
If you have a component set, you do not NEED to ruin 4 channels, you are provided with a component crossover that will divide the signal for you.
However, if you desire to bi-amp the thing, (and I don't recommend you do if you have 100W/ch) that is a different story. Tweeters likely won't use more than a handful of watts (like 5-6) as 99% of the power used on the bottom end of the sound spectrum. Listen to those speakers with the manufacturer crossover provided first. You might like the sound.
Also to consider, matching a tweeter with a component separately will likely require a lot of attention to detail, and probably some equipment just to measure the output. Unless you are a true audiofreaknutophile I don't think it would be worth your time.
Sounds like you have big plans...we like big plans here :-) I would suggest planning out your entire system then picking up the separate pieces as you get the funds. It is easier to match things up if they are all coordinated to work well together.
PS as far as alternator/battery, most people don't need to upgrade either of those. Wiring is usually the only electrical upgrade you'll need til you get into the 1500W range.
paspunxra on 07/11/2008 04:39:43
Well I started this whole thing off wrong. Knew what I wanted but not how to get there. Now Im much wiser from the experience/waste of time and money, but still I know what I want.
The current setup will be the Memphis Power Reference 100 by 4, 2 Memphis Mojo 12's, a 400 watt RMS amp (still hit 142.1 db in comp, yes I know its way underpowered). I am still wondering what component set to go with. I hear the SS's by Kicker are really good, but I have had some experience with BA and I liked their sound. I dont know, I like screaming, clear, obnoxious punk with lots of guitars and vocals. I dont want any distortion. Anyways, I appreciate the time and effort.
BTW Im thinking that the sub amp will be the Kicker ZX2500.1. Time to start saving pennies for the alternator and 2nd battery. If I am going to run an amp that big, how big of a dry cell should I get?
swez on 07/12/2008 07:40:27
As far as front components, consider metal dome tweeters. They cut throught the heavy bass well, but can be very "bright" or harsh sounding for everyday rides. Ideally, you can fit 6.5" midbass in the front doors as well.
The Bass Engine proposed will need some major power upgrades under the hood to feed your ZX2500.1. Plan on a 250-300A ALT for this and a pair of 800-1000 CCA rated Yellow Top Optima BATs to buffer the sub amp with reserve current when you compete. This means a battery isolator kit will be needed as well. (Will explain that later)
Consider powering your Memphis full range amp off the main battery of your present chargings system. Use a dedicated battery kit as noted above to power the ZX amp only.
As for ALT sources, consider www.motorcityreman.com as a possible option. They make some pretty beefy drop in ALTs and their prices are very reasonable compared to Ohio Gen and Stinger.
One of our SPL guys tried the BATCAP option with very good results. Am sure they are not cheap, but with some technical help from their support team, am sure they can give you a good recommendation:
http://www.batcap.net/2000.html
Comments?
Swez
paspunxra on 07/12/2008 08:17:49
The Batcap and alternator both seem doable. On the Motor City Reman site, they did no have one specifically for my vehicle, so I shot them an email requesting a quote on the price for one.
Before I even think about getting in that ZX2500.1, I am going to pull everything out of my car...gut it entirely and re-dynamat everything just to make sure I eliminate any possible squeaks and rattles. I dont want to be the guy that spends a lot of time and money on his vehicle and then when I turn up the volume all you hear is my trunk lid, or the rear deck of my car rattling.
My guess is that for what I need them to do, the Kicker SS series components will do the trick. Keep in mind that my first posts were mainly about an SQL setup. I think I am well on my way to finally acheiving what I was hoping to do from the get go.
The only concern with the SS's is that I have never heard a set of them. I have heard the BA's (but god awful expensive), JL's (which I didnt think much of) and plenty of other types of component sets. There isnt an audio shop around here with any of the Kicker SS's hooked up for listening and I nobody that I know of run's them. Of course, Im caught in the day of that POS Seleneum Horns that just sound like garbage. I dont care how loud they are, the music that eminates from those rides is a joke.
swez on 07/12/2008 08:54:24
Good, Reman might have some solid options in their tool kit and just wait to hear from them.
Have you ever listened to Infinity Kappas or the JBL sister series Comps? They are pretty smooth and the crossovers are very good in this package. They use M.M.D. (Metal Matrix Diaphrams) that can be very bright to some listeners, but cuts through the bass very well too.
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=108607CS&tp=106&tab=detailed_info
These have very natural sounding, high efficiency motor and cone structures. The woofer cone is a glass woven composite type cone for light weight and cone stability. I like them almost as much as kevlar woven cones we see in very expensive speakers.
This series come in 2 and 4 ohm version too. They can handle up to 90 watts RMS per side and very efficient too. It does not take a huge amp to get them up to full capacity. If I were planning to do an upgrade on my own ride, these are the likely drivers of choice I would use.
Selenium Horns... that's a special animal. To make them sound right, a lot of EQ power is needed to flatten them out. Yes, they are very efficient with power, but can sound very honky and shrill w/o adequate EQing. I don't recommend them for mobile sound if one is shooting for SQ or SQL performance. They are great for large HT, live sound and stage monitor applications. Again, lots of EQ power to balance them out and Bi-amping is recommended. If not Bi-amped, use attenuation pads to dial back on them or they can rip your ears to shreds over time.
Swez
PS Would you mind breaking up each topic change into smaller paragraphs? The "Wall of Text" is hard to read and many Golds just ignore these types of posts. Thanks!
This week, a new Memphis PR 100.4 will be hooked up in 4 channel mode to run the front component set. I am just wondering how I am going to run a channel per speaker (one to the midrange, one to the tweeter on each side)? I have never run a 4 channel amp myself.
I figure my next step after all of this is completed will be the addition of the Kicker SS component series that, for the money I can purchase them for, seem to be my best bet. Of course once I receive those, Im going to have to build baffles and do some fabrication on my doors (the books all say 6 1/2's in my doors, but they are 5 1/4" speakers). I am wondering is there anything else I might want to consider for the midranges? I was thinking maybe Boston Acoustics mid-higher level stuff.
Then after the speakers, theres the alternator and another battery. Those are will both be done before I purchase a monster sub amp thats going to pull all kinds of juice. I dunno I'm just looking to hear some opinions. Thanks.
Replies (5)
MrBrownstone on 07/11/2008 03:38:39
If you have a component set, you do not NEED to ruin 4 channels, you are provided with a component crossover that will divide the signal for you.
However, if you desire to bi-amp the thing, (and I don't recommend you do if you have 100W/ch) that is a different story. Tweeters likely won't use more than a handful of watts (like 5-6) as 99% of the power used on the bottom end of the sound spectrum. Listen to those speakers with the manufacturer crossover provided first. You might like the sound.
Also to consider, matching a tweeter with a component separately will likely require a lot of attention to detail, and probably some equipment just to measure the output. Unless you are a true audiofreaknutophile I don't think it would be worth your time.
Sounds like you have big plans...we like big plans here :-) I would suggest planning out your entire system then picking up the separate pieces as you get the funds. It is easier to match things up if they are all coordinated to work well together.
PS as far as alternator/battery, most people don't need to upgrade either of those. Wiring is usually the only electrical upgrade you'll need til you get into the 1500W range.
paspunxra on 07/11/2008 04:39:43
Well I started this whole thing off wrong. Knew what I wanted but not how to get there. Now Im much wiser from the experience/waste of time and money, but still I know what I want.
The current setup will be the Memphis Power Reference 100 by 4, 2 Memphis Mojo 12's, a 400 watt RMS amp (still hit 142.1 db in comp, yes I know its way underpowered). I am still wondering what component set to go with. I hear the SS's by Kicker are really good, but I have had some experience with BA and I liked their sound. I dont know, I like screaming, clear, obnoxious punk with lots of guitars and vocals. I dont want any distortion. Anyways, I appreciate the time and effort.
BTW Im thinking that the sub amp will be the Kicker ZX2500.1. Time to start saving pennies for the alternator and 2nd battery. If I am going to run an amp that big, how big of a dry cell should I get?
swez on 07/12/2008 07:40:27
As far as front components, consider metal dome tweeters. They cut throught the heavy bass well, but can be very "bright" or harsh sounding for everyday rides. Ideally, you can fit 6.5" midbass in the front doors as well.
The Bass Engine proposed will need some major power upgrades under the hood to feed your ZX2500.1. Plan on a 250-300A ALT for this and a pair of 800-1000 CCA rated Yellow Top Optima BATs to buffer the sub amp with reserve current when you compete. This means a battery isolator kit will be needed as well. (Will explain that later)
Consider powering your Memphis full range amp off the main battery of your present chargings system. Use a dedicated battery kit as noted above to power the ZX amp only.
As for ALT sources, consider www.motorcityreman.com as a possible option. They make some pretty beefy drop in ALTs and their prices are very reasonable compared to Ohio Gen and Stinger.
One of our SPL guys tried the BATCAP option with very good results. Am sure they are not cheap, but with some technical help from their support team, am sure they can give you a good recommendation:
http://www.batcap.net/2000.html
Comments?
Swez
paspunxra on 07/12/2008 08:17:49
The Batcap and alternator both seem doable. On the Motor City Reman site, they did no have one specifically for my vehicle, so I shot them an email requesting a quote on the price for one.
Before I even think about getting in that ZX2500.1, I am going to pull everything out of my car...gut it entirely and re-dynamat everything just to make sure I eliminate any possible squeaks and rattles. I dont want to be the guy that spends a lot of time and money on his vehicle and then when I turn up the volume all you hear is my trunk lid, or the rear deck of my car rattling.
My guess is that for what I need them to do, the Kicker SS series components will do the trick. Keep in mind that my first posts were mainly about an SQL setup. I think I am well on my way to finally acheiving what I was hoping to do from the get go.
The only concern with the SS's is that I have never heard a set of them. I have heard the BA's (but god awful expensive), JL's (which I didnt think much of) and plenty of other types of component sets. There isnt an audio shop around here with any of the Kicker SS's hooked up for listening and I nobody that I know of run's them. Of course, Im caught in the day of that POS Seleneum Horns that just sound like garbage. I dont care how loud they are, the music that eminates from those rides is a joke.
swez on 07/12/2008 08:54:24
Good, Reman might have some solid options in their tool kit and just wait to hear from them.
Have you ever listened to Infinity Kappas or the JBL sister series Comps? They are pretty smooth and the crossovers are very good in this package. They use M.M.D. (Metal Matrix Diaphrams) that can be very bright to some listeners, but cuts through the bass very well too.
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=410&i=108607CS&tp=106&tab=detailed_info
These have very natural sounding, high efficiency motor and cone structures. The woofer cone is a glass woven composite type cone for light weight and cone stability. I like them almost as much as kevlar woven cones we see in very expensive speakers.
This series come in 2 and 4 ohm version too. They can handle up to 90 watts RMS per side and very efficient too. It does not take a huge amp to get them up to full capacity. If I were planning to do an upgrade on my own ride, these are the likely drivers of choice I would use.
Selenium Horns... that's a special animal. To make them sound right, a lot of EQ power is needed to flatten them out. Yes, they are very efficient with power, but can sound very honky and shrill w/o adequate EQing. I don't recommend them for mobile sound if one is shooting for SQ or SQL performance. They are great for large HT, live sound and stage monitor applications. Again, lots of EQ power to balance them out and Bi-amping is recommended. If not Bi-amped, use attenuation pads to dial back on them or they can rip your ears to shreds over time.
Swez
PS Would you mind breaking up each topic change into smaller paragraphs? The "Wall of Text" is hard to read and many Golds just ignore these types of posts. Thanks!
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