I have decided to install a subwoofer in my 2007 cobalt into the stock head unit (hi-levels). I'm thinking of going with image dynamics IDQ sub again. In the past I had an IDQ 12 inch dual 4 ohm sub powered with 460RMS. The sound quality was excellent and the bass hurt my ears. Brilliant in my opinion.
BUT, now I have a car that will produce MUCH deeper bass than the truck did since it is larger inside, and I'm wondering what size speaker you would think would would give me the sound that I'm looking for...10", 12"?? Also, would I be better off with sealed or ported? My old setup was 1.37 cu.ft. ported and tuned at about 29Hz. Sounded good in the little truck cab, but need opinion on the car.
I want a sub that will easilly keep up with full volume demand without gettng distorted and play rap, rock, classical, christian, and all the music I listen to.
Also, do you like poineer amplifiers? I can get them for relatively cheap.
To sum it up: I want to hear every note, I want it to crank, and I'm wondering if sealed or ported? 2007 cobalt.
Replies (6)
hooviemoto87 on 07/8/2008 16:50:26
what about a bandpass?
SQLThump on 07/8/2008 20:06:03
First things first, Bandpass ususally is the worst way to go for sound quality. Although I have heard some great sounding bandpass in my day, they were always lacking in certian frequencies, while others were dumping out of control. The usual use for bandpass it to attuentuate a small band of frequencies with some extra Dbs.
Ported will do better for raw Db output, gaining usually around 6Db around the port tuning frequencies. Ported is usually the choice of those looking for good SPL output with a decent amount of sound quality retained. BTW, the old box design you were using would probably work out just fine.
Sealed is the best choice for pure sound quality. With no port or ventilation, the air within the enclosure acts as a spring keeping woofer excursion in check by putting a nice vacuum on the driver's suspension.
I would suggest a sealed enclosure to best pair up with your goals. You will have a bit more cabin gain effect at a lower frequency, so I think the combination of that will porting the enclosure to optiize DB output and keeping frequencies nice and low unneeded.
As for reccomending a sub, it seems like you are pretty stuck on the IDQ 12. I am kind of unwilling to make any other reccomendations at this point due to to this stuckness. If you feel this is your sub of choice, run with it. Everybody has their preferences, and this sees to be yours. GRIN
Pioneer amps huh? I personally wouldn't touch anything Pioneer with a 50-foot pole, while others swear by their gear. A lot of amplifier choices are again preference.
When shopping for an amp consider the following:
RS power output at a desireable ohmage to match with drivers used.
Number of channels, and whether the amp is Class A/B, D or some other design
Input voltage at what that RMS is acheived. Lower=better response in average charging systems
Signal to noise ratio. Higher=better output at same power. Basically the same reference for amps as sensitivity is to speakers.
Wheter or not the companies products are CEA Compliant. CEA compliance means that the amp is rated my somewhat honest means, not just whatever number the manufacturer feels like rating it at.
Fuse value in relation to rated power. The way to tell this is in your last post.
hooviemoto87 on 07/9/2008 03:48:25
ok cool. Sealed is the way to go then, I think. I don't want to emphasize the deep lows because the car will produce that. Only reason I liked the pioneer amps is because it was cheap and CEA2006 compliant. Either way, I will be using a Boss Ripper (I know it sucks) for a little bit because it's free. I'm going to be hunting for a good amp though, I just don't have the money yet.
I noticed everyone here disses Power Acoustic, but let me tell you that I went from a Boss to a Power Acoustic, and the sound quality and output power increase was absolutely amazing. It cranked all the way up with a capacitor on it for 4 years, too with no problems. Just shows how garbage Boss amps are. BUT, those are the only two amps that I know.
What amps BRANDS do you guys as enthusiasts trust? For the Image Dynamics IDQ10 V.3, it handles 500 watts RMS. I'd like to be around 500 watts on an amp to get that sound quality.
hooviemoto87 on 07/9/2008 04:49:35
Did you know my cobalt has a 25 amp fuse that says amplifier? Does that car have an amp on the speakers? I tend to think it does because the stock system is among the best I've heard for a small car.
MrBrownstone on 07/9/2008 07:02:21
Many cars from the early/mid 1990s had speakers in doors that were amplified. Granted, the amp was 25W/ch. As you are probably aware, head units can't possibly put out that kind of full range power.
Your system is no different, just that the amplification device has it's own electrical tap.
SQLThump on 07/9/2008 18:21:47
I don't nessaccerly diss Power Acoustic, but they are merely an average brand in my opinion. Certainly not a horrible brand, but definetly not an above average or great brand.
Boss is a horrible brand in my opinion, I personally think hamsters on a wheel would probably be an increase in sound quality and output power over Boss' best, but thats me.....GRIN
For amp brands, I am a big fan of the following.....Diamond Audio, JBL, Alpine, Infinity and Kicker. Each offers their own advantages, disadvantages, features and perks, due to individual tendancies of individual manufacturers.
For sound quality, I would take Diamond Audio over anything. For Dollar to power ratio, I would take Alpine. For bulletproof reliability, over the top design and technology, Kicker all the way. For my favorite blend of all of the above, JBL.
What voice coil configuration is used on the !DQ 12 you mentioned? This will help pick out a good amp to match it with. Hopefully it is availble in 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm to match up well with a sub amp.
Most stock systems, as Mr B noted, coe with amps right out of the factory. Nothing fancy, low powered and vehicle specific, usually to power front components used in modern factory systems. These have been popular in luxury cars, and sports cars for years.
BUT, now I have a car that will produce MUCH deeper bass than the truck did since it is larger inside, and I'm wondering what size speaker you would think would would give me the sound that I'm looking for...10", 12"?? Also, would I be better off with sealed or ported? My old setup was 1.37 cu.ft. ported and tuned at about 29Hz. Sounded good in the little truck cab, but need opinion on the car.
I want a sub that will easilly keep up with full volume demand without gettng distorted and play rap, rock, classical, christian, and all the music I listen to.
Also, do you like poineer amplifiers? I can get them for relatively cheap.
To sum it up: I want to hear every note, I want it to crank, and I'm wondering if sealed or ported? 2007 cobalt.
Replies (6)
hooviemoto87 on 07/8/2008 16:50:26
what about a bandpass?
SQLThump on 07/8/2008 20:06:03
First things first, Bandpass ususally is the worst way to go for sound quality. Although I have heard some great sounding bandpass in my day, they were always lacking in certian frequencies, while others were dumping out of control. The usual use for bandpass it to attuentuate a small band of frequencies with some extra Dbs.
Ported will do better for raw Db output, gaining usually around 6Db around the port tuning frequencies. Ported is usually the choice of those looking for good SPL output with a decent amount of sound quality retained. BTW, the old box design you were using would probably work out just fine.
Sealed is the best choice for pure sound quality. With no port or ventilation, the air within the enclosure acts as a spring keeping woofer excursion in check by putting a nice vacuum on the driver's suspension.
I would suggest a sealed enclosure to best pair up with your goals. You will have a bit more cabin gain effect at a lower frequency, so I think the combination of that will porting the enclosure to optiize DB output and keeping frequencies nice and low unneeded.
As for reccomending a sub, it seems like you are pretty stuck on the IDQ 12. I am kind of unwilling to make any other reccomendations at this point due to to this stuckness. If you feel this is your sub of choice, run with it. Everybody has their preferences, and this sees to be yours. GRIN
Pioneer amps huh? I personally wouldn't touch anything Pioneer with a 50-foot pole, while others swear by their gear. A lot of amplifier choices are again preference.
When shopping for an amp consider the following:
RS power output at a desireable ohmage to match with drivers used.
Number of channels, and whether the amp is Class A/B, D or some other design
Input voltage at what that RMS is acheived. Lower=better response in average charging systems
Signal to noise ratio. Higher=better output at same power. Basically the same reference for amps as sensitivity is to speakers.
Wheter or not the companies products are CEA Compliant. CEA compliance means that the amp is rated my somewhat honest means, not just whatever number the manufacturer feels like rating it at.
Fuse value in relation to rated power. The way to tell this is in your last post.
hooviemoto87 on 07/9/2008 03:48:25
ok cool. Sealed is the way to go then, I think. I don't want to emphasize the deep lows because the car will produce that. Only reason I liked the pioneer amps is because it was cheap and CEA2006 compliant. Either way, I will be using a Boss Ripper (I know it sucks) for a little bit because it's free. I'm going to be hunting for a good amp though, I just don't have the money yet.
I noticed everyone here disses Power Acoustic, but let me tell you that I went from a Boss to a Power Acoustic, and the sound quality and output power increase was absolutely amazing. It cranked all the way up with a capacitor on it for 4 years, too with no problems. Just shows how garbage Boss amps are. BUT, those are the only two amps that I know.
What amps BRANDS do you guys as enthusiasts trust? For the Image Dynamics IDQ10 V.3, it handles 500 watts RMS. I'd like to be around 500 watts on an amp to get that sound quality.
hooviemoto87 on 07/9/2008 04:49:35
Did you know my cobalt has a 25 amp fuse that says amplifier? Does that car have an amp on the speakers? I tend to think it does because the stock system is among the best I've heard for a small car.
MrBrownstone on 07/9/2008 07:02:21
Many cars from the early/mid 1990s had speakers in doors that were amplified. Granted, the amp was 25W/ch. As you are probably aware, head units can't possibly put out that kind of full range power.
Your system is no different, just that the amplification device has it's own electrical tap.
SQLThump on 07/9/2008 18:21:47
I don't nessaccerly diss Power Acoustic, but they are merely an average brand in my opinion. Certainly not a horrible brand, but definetly not an above average or great brand.
Boss is a horrible brand in my opinion, I personally think hamsters on a wheel would probably be an increase in sound quality and output power over Boss' best, but thats me.....GRIN
For amp brands, I am a big fan of the following.....Diamond Audio, JBL, Alpine, Infinity and Kicker. Each offers their own advantages, disadvantages, features and perks, due to individual tendancies of individual manufacturers.
For sound quality, I would take Diamond Audio over anything. For Dollar to power ratio, I would take Alpine. For bulletproof reliability, over the top design and technology, Kicker all the way. For my favorite blend of all of the above, JBL.
What voice coil configuration is used on the !DQ 12 you mentioned? This will help pick out a good amp to match it with. Hopefully it is availble in 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm to match up well with a sub amp.
Most stock systems, as Mr B noted, coe with amps right out of the factory. Nothing fancy, low powered and vehicle specific, usually to power front components used in modern factory systems. These have been popular in luxury cars, and sports cars for years.
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