i was wondering who makes nitro audio or if it's another peice of junk on the market
Replies (3)
swez on 07/2/2008 10:06:31
I dunno pal. These guys have some nice looking amps and they tout a German Engineer's designs. So what... Volfenhaggen says the same thing, German engineering, made in China and are total junk.
I'd tend to stick to the tried and true and be happy right out of the box. Throwing money at an unknown brand is iffy at best. If the iffy breaks down and there are no authorized service centers to repair it or swap, that means long delays w/o it.
What's the savings in the short run, compared to the hassles if the unit does not live up to expectations?
Swez
Ash on 07/2/2008 10:46:22
A few basic rules to go by when dealing with any brand:
Amps:
Always look to see if they are CEA compliant. This way you are ensured that they are rated at least @ 14.4 volts so you can see some real world power. Still that can be somewhat misleading as Hifonics amps aren't, but are still good deals. Tried & trued in that case...
Check fuse ratings and compare to the rated output to see if they are lying. Never consider an amp that gives only peak ratings as we all know doesn't matter and can be largely inflated. Check the manufacturer online. If they don't offer a full manual with full specs, then don't buy it. Lastly, but not least important is the dollar per watt ratio. 1000 watts for 80 bucks?!!!! We've all seen those types.....
Speakers & Subs:
Like any other products, look for full parameters especially on subs. You may not get them for mids & highs, but most definitely you should be able to get them for subs. This is the only way to know their true nature. Even still they can lie about that as I have found. You might just end up with a free-air sub when they stated ported.....
Compare magnet/motor assmeblies to rated power. You just can't get a 1000 watts out of a 30oz magnet. If you can get your hands on one (like at a shop), check out it's overall build quality. Thin/short tinsle leads, flabby cones, cheap spiders, shoddy glue jobs, etc are all signs of an inferior driver that may not be worth buying.
When they state the magnet weight, do they say "magnet structure/assembly"? Usually this is a loose term that includes cosmetic or other parts that have no effect on the real magnets weight or strength.
There are a lot of deceptive ways to market gear and some companies take full advantage of this. Therefore, it can and should take some serious investigation before buying a product. Afterall, it is a investment that you are making and you don't want to buy something that's not even worth half the money that you spent.
Ash
swez on 07/2/2008 11:07:17
Amen & Amen Brother Ash! Well said and right on target.
Swez
Replies (3)
swez on 07/2/2008 10:06:31
I dunno pal. These guys have some nice looking amps and they tout a German Engineer's designs. So what... Volfenhaggen says the same thing, German engineering, made in China and are total junk.
I'd tend to stick to the tried and true and be happy right out of the box. Throwing money at an unknown brand is iffy at best. If the iffy breaks down and there are no authorized service centers to repair it or swap, that means long delays w/o it.
What's the savings in the short run, compared to the hassles if the unit does not live up to expectations?
Swez
Ash on 07/2/2008 10:46:22
A few basic rules to go by when dealing with any brand:
Amps:
Always look to see if they are CEA compliant. This way you are ensured that they are rated at least @ 14.4 volts so you can see some real world power. Still that can be somewhat misleading as Hifonics amps aren't, but are still good deals. Tried & trued in that case...
Check fuse ratings and compare to the rated output to see if they are lying. Never consider an amp that gives only peak ratings as we all know doesn't matter and can be largely inflated. Check the manufacturer online. If they don't offer a full manual with full specs, then don't buy it. Lastly, but not least important is the dollar per watt ratio. 1000 watts for 80 bucks?!!!! We've all seen those types.....
Speakers & Subs:
Like any other products, look for full parameters especially on subs. You may not get them for mids & highs, but most definitely you should be able to get them for subs. This is the only way to know their true nature. Even still they can lie about that as I have found. You might just end up with a free-air sub when they stated ported.....
Compare magnet/motor assmeblies to rated power. You just can't get a 1000 watts out of a 30oz magnet. If you can get your hands on one (like at a shop), check out it's overall build quality. Thin/short tinsle leads, flabby cones, cheap spiders, shoddy glue jobs, etc are all signs of an inferior driver that may not be worth buying.
When they state the magnet weight, do they say "magnet structure/assembly"? Usually this is a loose term that includes cosmetic or other parts that have no effect on the real magnets weight or strength.
There are a lot of deceptive ways to market gear and some companies take full advantage of this. Therefore, it can and should take some serious investigation before buying a product. Afterall, it is a investment that you are making and you don't want to buy something that's not even worth half the money that you spent.
Ash
swez on 07/2/2008 11:07:17
Amen & Amen Brother Ash! Well said and right on target.
Swez
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