(Before anyone gives my grief for letting an install shop set up my audio equipment, normally I would've done it myself but the car only had 700 KM on it and they were installing the remote star/alarm combo so they cut my a good deal on installing the stereo equipment.)
My 2003 Cav has the 100w "premium" audio system but the factory speakers sucked and there was not enough bass. I had them replace the front 4x6s with 5.25 Rockfords and the rear 6x9s with Rockfords. I had them install my 3 year old Sony Xplod 5 channel amp that I ripped out of my old car. To cut down on initial costs I decided to keep the factory head unit (you don't want to know what it costs to install a remote starter/alarm combo in a 5 speed with all the power remote goodies).
Since the amp had high level inputs, they ran the speaker wires directly to the amp. (Yes, I know that you don't get the best sound quality).
Here's the problem:
The first night I had the car back, I went to dim the dashboard lights and a horrible buzz started coming out of the front left speaker. Turned the dashboard lights back to full and the buzz went away.
Took the car back and they best solution they could come up with was that the gain on the amp was too high and was amplifying the buzz which would normally not be noticable. With the gain on the amp turned down, I now have less power than I did before the amp was installed!!
Also, the chimes that come out of the front left speaker (the one that go of if you don't have your seatbelt fastened or if you left your lights on) were excessively loud with the gain on the amp turned up but have now returned to normal levels.
I'm thinking that this can't be right since GM wants to market their Cavs & Sunfires to young people that would normally buy an import and you know that the stereo is the first upgrade.
Does anybody know what the install shop did wrong or am I going to have to buy an aftermarket head unit? (I was planning on buying one in the next year or so but I don't want to spend the money on one now if I don't have to - and especially if it's not going to correct the problem).
At this point I'm ready to rip the installer's head off (he messed up the alarm install as well) so if anyone can give me ideas on what I should do to correct the problem myself, it would be appreciated.
Thanks.
p.s. that's the last time I pay someone to do a job I could've done better myself.
Replies (5)
Tray on 09/5/2003 12:54:51
Well, I would say the main problem is running the high level speaker wires to the amp.
It sounds like somewhere along the way, the signal is tapped, so that the chimes can be played through the speaker. (Sounds like GM trying to save $$$).
I'd run the signal from the rear of the deck, directly into a Line-Out converter, and then RCAs back to the amp. That way, the signal is only coming from the head unit, and you should be able to set the gain level in a proper position.
If that doesn't sound like your cup of tea, you could also try to locate where the signal input for the warning chimes is, and either disconnect it, or route it to a piezo horn, or similar.
ttocs on 09/6/2003 03:07:49
gm multiplexed the chimes through the speaker in an attempt to keep people from changing the radios out. If you pull the deck, you have to do a mod to keep the door chimes working, or relocate the factory radio somewhere inside the dash, and mount the aftermarket radio in the stock location.
Using the speaker level inputs and running speaker wires often will lead to alternator or other noises in the system. The best best bet to get rid of this is to get a line out converter installed behind the radio, as close to the deck as possible. This will cost more($10-15) for the LOC, and a set of rca cables. They probably did not do this in the first place to save you some money. This noise could also be because of the premium sound system...
I probably would not recommend someone without at least descent install experience doing that car. I have not seen the '03's yet, but if they are similar to previous models the ENTIRE dash(airbag covers and all) has to come off to get to the deck. And then like I said you have to do some additional wiring to keep the door chime.
What is working/not working on the alarm?
carsNguitars on 09/6/2003 15:55:46
Tray & ttocs: Thanks for your advice. I should've done my homework before I had the install done because putting in a LOC was an option (that the salesman told me I wouldn't need since the amp had high level inputs) and since you're both in agreement I'm going to go with that solution.
Since I don't have any experience on installs in anything newer than a '95 Honda, I'm going to let them fix the problem. (I'll insist the other, more experienced installer do the work this time - he was supposed to have been the original installer). Since it sounds like they messed up telling me I didn't need a LOC they will be doing it for free.
As far as the alarm is concerned, it may be a manufacturer's problem (but I'm choked at the installer so I'm blaming him *g*). If it's his mistake it's simply because the shock sensor is set too sensitive which is an easy fix.
ttocs on 09/7/2003 13:20:05
you probably rather have it too sensative at first, rather then the other option. Now your alarm will go off and bother you, rather then your car driving off and bothering you. I always try to put the shock sensor in a fairly easily adjustable place. Season chngs and temp chngs can make a difference on an alarm or anthing electronic for that matter. Alarms need occational tweeking from time to time to keep them working properly.
as for the loc issue, they were partially right. You didn't "need" an loc and with modern amps now you generally do not need them. I always start the engine while tuning the amp to test for alt noise, and to keep the load off the battery. My shop would not have delivered a car with noise, but other shops are different.
carsNguitars on 09/8/2003 11:42:14
You're right ... I'd rather have it too sensitive to start off with but everytime a bus or truck drives by it sets off the warning chirps and when it's parked on a bus route, it gets annoying listening the chirps every 15 minutes (and I'm sure the neighbors would agree).
Anyway, I've got a long list of complaints about the install and I'm phoning the salesman this morning. I'll let you know how the stereo problem gets fixed.
Thanks for you help!
My 2003 Cav has the 100w "premium" audio system but the factory speakers sucked and there was not enough bass. I had them replace the front 4x6s with 5.25 Rockfords and the rear 6x9s with Rockfords. I had them install my 3 year old Sony Xplod 5 channel amp that I ripped out of my old car. To cut down on initial costs I decided to keep the factory head unit (you don't want to know what it costs to install a remote starter/alarm combo in a 5 speed with all the power remote goodies).
Since the amp had high level inputs, they ran the speaker wires directly to the amp. (Yes, I know that you don't get the best sound quality).
Here's the problem:
The first night I had the car back, I went to dim the dashboard lights and a horrible buzz started coming out of the front left speaker. Turned the dashboard lights back to full and the buzz went away.
Took the car back and they best solution they could come up with was that the gain on the amp was too high and was amplifying the buzz which would normally not be noticable. With the gain on the amp turned down, I now have less power than I did before the amp was installed!!
Also, the chimes that come out of the front left speaker (the one that go of if you don't have your seatbelt fastened or if you left your lights on) were excessively loud with the gain on the amp turned up but have now returned to normal levels.
I'm thinking that this can't be right since GM wants to market their Cavs & Sunfires to young people that would normally buy an import and you know that the stereo is the first upgrade.
Does anybody know what the install shop did wrong or am I going to have to buy an aftermarket head unit? (I was planning on buying one in the next year or so but I don't want to spend the money on one now if I don't have to - and especially if it's not going to correct the problem).
At this point I'm ready to rip the installer's head off (he messed up the alarm install as well) so if anyone can give me ideas on what I should do to correct the problem myself, it would be appreciated.
Thanks.
p.s. that's the last time I pay someone to do a job I could've done better myself.
Replies (5)
Tray on 09/5/2003 12:54:51
Well, I would say the main problem is running the high level speaker wires to the amp.
It sounds like somewhere along the way, the signal is tapped, so that the chimes can be played through the speaker. (Sounds like GM trying to save $$$).
I'd run the signal from the rear of the deck, directly into a Line-Out converter, and then RCAs back to the amp. That way, the signal is only coming from the head unit, and you should be able to set the gain level in a proper position.
If that doesn't sound like your cup of tea, you could also try to locate where the signal input for the warning chimes is, and either disconnect it, or route it to a piezo horn, or similar.
ttocs on 09/6/2003 03:07:49
gm multiplexed the chimes through the speaker in an attempt to keep people from changing the radios out. If you pull the deck, you have to do a mod to keep the door chimes working, or relocate the factory radio somewhere inside the dash, and mount the aftermarket radio in the stock location.
Using the speaker level inputs and running speaker wires often will lead to alternator or other noises in the system. The best best bet to get rid of this is to get a line out converter installed behind the radio, as close to the deck as possible. This will cost more($10-15) for the LOC, and a set of rca cables. They probably did not do this in the first place to save you some money. This noise could also be because of the premium sound system...
I probably would not recommend someone without at least descent install experience doing that car. I have not seen the '03's yet, but if they are similar to previous models the ENTIRE dash(airbag covers and all) has to come off to get to the deck. And then like I said you have to do some additional wiring to keep the door chime.
What is working/not working on the alarm?
carsNguitars on 09/6/2003 15:55:46
Tray & ttocs: Thanks for your advice. I should've done my homework before I had the install done because putting in a LOC was an option (that the salesman told me I wouldn't need since the amp had high level inputs) and since you're both in agreement I'm going to go with that solution.
Since I don't have any experience on installs in anything newer than a '95 Honda, I'm going to let them fix the problem. (I'll insist the other, more experienced installer do the work this time - he was supposed to have been the original installer). Since it sounds like they messed up telling me I didn't need a LOC they will be doing it for free.
As far as the alarm is concerned, it may be a manufacturer's problem (but I'm choked at the installer so I'm blaming him *g*). If it's his mistake it's simply because the shock sensor is set too sensitive which is an easy fix.
ttocs on 09/7/2003 13:20:05
you probably rather have it too sensative at first, rather then the other option. Now your alarm will go off and bother you, rather then your car driving off and bothering you. I always try to put the shock sensor in a fairly easily adjustable place. Season chngs and temp chngs can make a difference on an alarm or anthing electronic for that matter. Alarms need occational tweeking from time to time to keep them working properly.
as for the loc issue, they were partially right. You didn't "need" an loc and with modern amps now you generally do not need them. I always start the engine while tuning the amp to test for alt noise, and to keep the load off the battery. My shop would not have delivered a car with noise, but other shops are different.
carsNguitars on 09/8/2003 11:42:14
You're right ... I'd rather have it too sensitive to start off with but everytime a bus or truck drives by it sets off the warning chirps and when it's parked on a bus route, it gets annoying listening the chirps every 15 minutes (and I'm sure the neighbors would agree).
Anyway, I've got a long list of complaints about the install and I'm phoning the salesman this morning. I'll let you know how the stereo problem gets fixed.
Thanks for you help!
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