here's what i have ...- soundstream pca 2000d amp (1ohm -2000rms, 4ohm-1100rms)
- 2 jl 13w6v2s in twin ported, properly spec'd 1 inch mdf
- infinity 7541a 4ch amp
- mb quartz 5 1/4's co axial, infinity kappa 6's, jl ct100 tweets
- 0 guage monster cable
- upgraded to 165 amp alternator
- 200 amp breaker
Here are my intentions, please correct me if im doing ANYTHING wrong! im going to upgrade my battery to a yellowtop optima.from there im going to upgrade my grounds from battery and engine to 0 gauge. Right now they are both running to the inner fender, i was going to relocate to frame. Also upgrade alternator power wire to 0 gauge. im going to run 0 gauge power to a soundstream 20 farad digital capacitor(do i need a cap?) and then 0 gauge ground directly back to my battery from cap. Run 4 gauge between amps and cap. the subs will be wired parallel so amp is giving 1100 rms which is what jl's max recommended power for these drivers(550 rms approx each). i'm looking for high 140's with exceptional sound quality.......... so whaddya think? wardragon6@hotmail.com
Replies (17)
newB on 04/29/2008 17:10:14
i like it!
few of my thoughts-
you can use a common ground for the back and ground everything there- dont bother running another full run of 0ga ground BACK to the front. Cap+amp1+amp2 with a common paint free ground in the back will be fine.
it sounds like you will be fine with the cap- the only situation where i disapprove of a cap is when it is used in place of a nice bat or alt, both of which you already have. GRIN
so power will go Front bat to back (+) cap to distro to amp1 and amp2
and ground will go (Trunk) Ground to (-) cap to distro to amp 1 and amp2
questions?
comments?
-Drew
SQLThump on 04/29/2008 18:59:07
Sounds like we are on the correct trail here....here are my observations:
As pretty much all of us Golds would reccomend, lose the cap. They don't really do what they are advertised to do, and will only help with very minor light dimming. On top of that, severing the power line to connect the cap can cause increased resistance and voltage drops, although no more than using a distribution block without a cap. With the stout upgrades you already have, and are making to your vehicle, I doubt that dimming will be much of an issue for you. Capacitor=car audio bling. Save yourself the trouble unless you really need to know exectly how much voltage is in your line at all times.
Also, instead of using various mismatched coaxial speakers and some add on tweets, consider investing in some high quality components, with seperate midrange, tweeter, and a crossover to keep things seperated. If exceptional sound quality and imaging is what you want, this is the way to fly. Components offer much better quality and accuracy compared to coaxials.
Also, you should probably change out the breaker to a fuse setup. Breakers are nice if you need to shut down the line all the time, but if a fuse blows/breaker throws, there is always a cause, and neglecting it by just flipping a switch instead of finding out why before replacing a fuse can result in many bad things, worst that come to mind is a shorted wire that is making a spark every time that breaker is thrown. Safety First!!
You are definitely on the right path, but I have couple of questions. What kind of vehicle are you putting this rig in, and what enclosure type are you thinking for the W6's? I don't see them in a sealed box going into the high 140's, but a well designed ported box will probably do it, and at the cost of all you hard earned clarity, bandpass will more than likely do it with ease.
SQLThump
flynn on 04/30/2008 13:48:03
to SQLTHUMP, ok, I'll lose the cap- saves me money!!! This is going into a 1998 Nissan Frontier kingcab. The mb quartz are actually 6s not 5 1/4's. I'd originally bought them for rear fill but then thought maybe i would put them in fiberglass and mount them just above the infinity 6s on the door panels....probably overkill. I think I'll just keep them for fill in the rear. What do you think? The infinity Kappas 6's are NOT coaxial but they are the bottom half of a component set in which i dont have the matching tweeters or crossovers for. Are the amplifier and deck crossovers not sufficient? Are these Infinitys not high quality speakers? I was looking at matching them up with a good tweeter- the JL ct 100 (1 inch aluminum dome 75 watt rms). if this is not a good matchup do you have another suggestion for a good and reliable tweet? Also what size fuse and type of fuse would you recommend for this application and should i locate it in the same place as the breaker would have been? What type(brand) of distro block should i use? Should the positive distro block be fused as well? If so what size?
Next , the box is made out of 1 inch mdf and each side is slot ported.It will be built exactly to Jl specs.
newB on 05/1/2008 02:11:40
as an ease of reading tip- separate your thoughts with space lines in between GRIN
like thought 1
then thought 2
question 1
question 2
-Drew
SQLThump on 05/1/2008 09:47:37
First, try breaking up your posts a little with seperate paragraphs, I can read it fine, but some of the older crowd sees a wall o' text.
First, wow, thats a lot to cram into a pickup. I assume the backseat will be gonzo?
Thank you for losing the cap. This will make life much easier in the long run, and on your wallet.
Before glassing, always think about whats going in the glass. MB Quart is some pretty good stuff, but coaxials in general are always lacking in sound quality (there are a few exceptions) compared to a component set of similar power handling. These will work, but not the most optimized setup.
As for the Infinity's, they are respectable gear for SQL system use, but nothing groundbreaking as far as SQ. Nice and loud, pretty clean, but not for the purists of sound quality. I am currently using only a set of Infinity 5000CS compnents for my highs and mids with no rear fill, and I am satisfied with them, but could go for something better as always. But they do keep up nicely with my bass engine.
Unfortunatly, missing the tweeters and the crossover is a problem. Crossovers in amplifiers and head units work fine for their purpose, which is to seperate top end speakers and subwoofers, not to seperate individual drivers within a component set. Midranges and tweeters need a higher crossover point than just about any H/U or amp will provide, and if not crossed over with a passive X-over, they will need individual channels of power for each driver, with stereo sound and four drivers, thats four channels. Seems like a lot of effort for just a component set.
As for the JL tweeters, Trying to pair them with the Infinity mid's would be difficult to accomplish successfully. I am not too sure of the powerr handling of the mids, but doubt it is above 35-40 RMS. Pairing that with a 75 RMS tweeter will result in a midrange that wants to kick the bucket before that power hungry tweeter wants to get out of bed.
At this point, I would say, and I hate to, scrap the mids, and don't buy those tweets. If you want to get something going on quickly, use the MB's in a non permanent situation for starters, and chill out and see if you can find a good deal on some components. For these I would reccomend brands like Infinity, POLK or JBL. These guys have many great enrty level component sets.
If you have a discerning taste and some extra cash to blow, products from Diamond Audio, MB Quart and FoCal come to mind. Although each has it's own unique sound, I find them to be the best I have heard so far. Seletcing upper range speakers comes down a lot to musical taste, and personal sound preference. It all comes down to the ear of the end consumer.
Replacing the breaker with a fuse is a good call. When doing this, take the maximum current draw from the fuses on your amps, add them together, and find a fuse as close as possible to this overall value. If you can't find it exact, fusing under is better provided you are properly use your amps so they don't see maximum current draw.
Dont worry about fusing the distribution blocks if you amps are fused. That's what they are there for. The fuse in the line is to protect the battery in case of short. If you are using all Monster wiring (great choice), yoi may as well use their blocks and battery terminals as well. All of them are great products.
An enclosure design, with that much power, should get you into the 135's, maybe low 140's, but I wouldn't hold my breath on much more than that, unless you get real lucky. Trucks have really small cabs compared to other types of vehicles, so natural cabin DB gains are not going to have too strong an effect, and may cause your resonance peak to be at an annoyingly high point.
What amp are you planning to use for your main speakers? If you really want exceptional sound quality, at no point will H/U power cut it.
Don't mean to pick your plan apart dude, but I want to save you some of the trouble you may get yourself into. Generally, (especally true with top end drivers) simplicity is the way to get the best results. More speakers, amps, subs and other components usually make for more things to possibly fail or not work later down the road, and the more complex a rig is, the more difficult it is to make every part work in unison with the others. Stick around, and we'll figure you something out that will be simple, and blow your buddies minds with how much can come from so little.....
SQLThump
flynn on 05/1/2008 11:12:03
-what speaker brand, model (specifically )component setup would you recommend that will keep up with my bass engine with the best sq possible in mind? both entry level and money no object. a few of each would be appreciated.
-what about purchasing matching infinity kappa tweeters to pair with what i have. they would come with crossovers for the tweets i imagine.
- i have an infinity 7541a 4ch amp to run my mids with. its already been purchased.....bought 4 channels expecting to rear fill. oh well. maybe a component setup that will handle that amp bridged?
- i listen to alot of heavy music, Tool, metallica, godsmack, disturbed, nine inch nail etc. Also alot of electronic music, house, trance, etc.
SQLThump on 05/1/2008 23:10:21
Nice choice of amp, that will do the job nicely. You can still use rear fill, It would only take 4 channels if you wanted to crosover the JL and Infinity speakers porperly. A complete component set can be used with two channels, or four if it is Bi Amp capable and you choose to do that, but ot a neccessity.
Buying tweets with crossovers can work, but one of the issues is keeping the mid out of the tweeter frequencies. You would need to find the rest of the same run of Kappa's tweeters, and the full crossover to get better than ghetto results.
The MB's you have will work great for rear fill if you want to use them. Remember though, rear fill is not neccessery for proper imaging. I personally don't care much for it, and find my front Infinity comps. do the job of filling the car fine fine.
As far as reccomending components, I would say the Infinity Kappa or reference, the JBL GTO series would be fy first second and third choice for entry level comps. The Focal Polyglas and Utopia are great comps, anything Diamond audio kicks ass, (Diamond speakers are quite pricey, their flagship D9 series 7" component set calling for a $1700 retail price last time I checked), though I am not too sure of any MB model lines. I think it was the Reference series I heard, I have on;y heard the components once, but have heard other gear from them a few times. Mindblowing every time.
Recommending upper range speakers can be difficult, as manufacturers make certian compromises to make their speakers. It would virtually impossible to make a perfect set for everybody, due to the many different tastes of audiophiles worldwide.
Personally, I think the Diamond D9's are the sweetest I have ever heard, but at that price, I won't be owning them any time soon. As far as entry level goes, I would roll with the Reference series any day of the week. But my tastes lean more to an odd blend of gangsta rap, classical and death metal.
Your best bet to select you a set of comps that you will love, go to some big box stores, listen to some high grade home audio speakers, take note of which ones you like, and what the tonal balance and imaging is like,and then listen to a variety of components and find some that sound the most like the home audio speakers speakers that you found to be your favorite. This will give yo a decent idea of how your speakers will perform, though not exact to how these will sound in your truck.
Make sure you bring some of your favorite CDs, and listen to songs on them that you would think would difficult for a speaker to reproduce. Really audition them well, and then decide from there which will create the rock concert on wheels that you desire.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/2/2008 18:22:22
- ok so ive tracked down a set of diamond hex s600' s, they are a level above the D6. thats ok? . Included in the crossover is rear acoustic fill outputs, hows that for beautiful!!!!!!!
- my next question, Is the soundstream picasso pca 2000d the right amp for this sub setup (2 jl 13w6's)? i was told that power coustic makes soundstream amps now and that it was a bad thing. ive looked up its review online and it "seems" ok but what do you know about them? if im making a bad choice what do you recommend that will push these subs at a consistent 500 to 700 rms each, affordably ?
- There is an older diamond amplifier D6 1000.1 thats rated at 1000 rms @ 1 ohm on ebay right now? still under 200 bucks. Not quite enough juice though i dont think.
- my main concern is to not under power them , not even a little bit. so even if i find an amp (picasso) that "says" it will push too much power (2000rms) at 1 ohm, its ratings at 4 ohms seem perfect for my application (1100). ive found those numbers are never right. i was thinking 2000rms@1 ohm is going to be more like 1100 to 1400 rms@ 1 ohm. what do you think? the amps ratings are 2000@1 ohm, 1500@2 0hm, 1100@1 ohm - Also this amp is not fused.
- and by the way THANK YOU for letting me brainscan you. You've been extremely helpul so far. i appreciate it.
SQLThump on 05/2/2008 19:29:23
No problem man. Thats what we are here for.
Great choice on the Hex series subs. Not too sure of the power ratings on them, or how the rear acoustic outputs work, but Diamond products rock man! I am sure you will be pleased with their performance.
I have never worked with SoundStream products, but I would be a bit wishywashy about using them if I found out they were made by Power Acoustic. I do know they were the cream of the crop products back in the day.
Personally, I would take 1000 Diamond Audio watts over 2000 Power Acoustic watts any day, but I feel the concern of underpowering them. Under $200 for that D6'er is one hell of a deal too.You could try to get the 2000RMS at 1 ohm from the Soundstream, and we can use a DMM to make sure you are sending a nice 1100 watts to your W6's
If you do elect to use the unfused amp, look up the maximum current draw from somewhere, and feed us the number. From there we can tell you based on that rating the realistic amount of power that amp can make, as well as what to fuse it's lead from the D-block at. You will need to do this if the amp isn't fused itself.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/2/2008 22:13:47
-diamond hex s600's are 6.5 components, not subs, ratings are 150 rms/ 300 max
- will that diamond D6 amp be enough to power two jl 13w6's to the spl level im looking for (140's) in a ported box? if not do you know what will ?
SQLThump on 05/2/2008 22:22:04
Thats what I figured on the diamonds.They will be wanting some power, and the Infinity amp is 75x4 correct? these may be a little too stout for this amp, and you may want to select either a more power amp, or more efficient speakers.
Whether or not you can make your SPL goal is dependant more on the drivers and enclosures used than raw amplifier power. You could power the pair of subs at 550RMS and see only a penalty of 3DB under full power. Fully powering subs changes the nature of tonal balance more than it does raw SPL in my opinion, which is important. Cabin gain and enclosure design will determine overall SPL more than available power
If you can, try to find an older D61200.1. This would power those JL subs quite nicely, with a nice amount of headroom.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/2/2008 22:24:41
- what about the diamond D7401?
SQLThump on 05/2/2008 22:52:35
For the subs? That wouldnt do much for them power wise.......
flynn on 05/2/2008 22:56:19
- yes the infinity is 75x4
-what about bridging the infinity to the components? If I use y-adapters off of my front rcas will i still be able to get stereo sound if i bridge it by putting both channels on stereo mode?
SQLThump on 05/4/2008 13:04:50
Bridging the Infinity to two channels can work, you will take the Y splits and put both lefts to the fronts, and both rights to the rears. Only problem here, is we have to adjust the left and right comps individually, which can make dailing in equally tricky, but by no means impossible. This wouldn't be a bad way to go, but we lose channels for rear fill if so desired.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/4/2008 17:16:10
small secondary amp for rear fill.......... but i think with the right power to those diamonds i aint gonna need rear fill especially in a pickup truck. I think i just wanted rear fill because my crappy pg comps i have now arent keeping up with the alpine type r-12 i have. So ill take your advice and try the diamond comps up front solo. THANKS AGAIN!
SQLThump on 05/4/2008 18:42:21
No problem bro. I doubt you will need rear fill with the D6's too. Stick to the plan, and keep us posted to how it turns out.
- 2 jl 13w6v2s in twin ported, properly spec'd 1 inch mdf
- infinity 7541a 4ch amp
- mb quartz 5 1/4's co axial, infinity kappa 6's, jl ct100 tweets
- 0 guage monster cable
- upgraded to 165 amp alternator
- 200 amp breaker
Here are my intentions, please correct me if im doing ANYTHING wrong! im going to upgrade my battery to a yellowtop optima.from there im going to upgrade my grounds from battery and engine to 0 gauge. Right now they are both running to the inner fender, i was going to relocate to frame. Also upgrade alternator power wire to 0 gauge. im going to run 0 gauge power to a soundstream 20 farad digital capacitor(do i need a cap?) and then 0 gauge ground directly back to my battery from cap. Run 4 gauge between amps and cap. the subs will be wired parallel so amp is giving 1100 rms which is what jl's max recommended power for these drivers(550 rms approx each). i'm looking for high 140's with exceptional sound quality.......... so whaddya think? wardragon6@hotmail.com
Replies (17)
newB on 04/29/2008 17:10:14
i like it!
few of my thoughts-
you can use a common ground for the back and ground everything there- dont bother running another full run of 0ga ground BACK to the front. Cap+amp1+amp2 with a common paint free ground in the back will be fine.
it sounds like you will be fine with the cap- the only situation where i disapprove of a cap is when it is used in place of a nice bat or alt, both of which you already have. GRIN
so power will go Front bat to back (+) cap to distro to amp1 and amp2
and ground will go (Trunk) Ground to (-) cap to distro to amp 1 and amp2
questions?
comments?
-Drew
SQLThump on 04/29/2008 18:59:07
Sounds like we are on the correct trail here....here are my observations:
As pretty much all of us Golds would reccomend, lose the cap. They don't really do what they are advertised to do, and will only help with very minor light dimming. On top of that, severing the power line to connect the cap can cause increased resistance and voltage drops, although no more than using a distribution block without a cap. With the stout upgrades you already have, and are making to your vehicle, I doubt that dimming will be much of an issue for you. Capacitor=car audio bling. Save yourself the trouble unless you really need to know exectly how much voltage is in your line at all times.
Also, instead of using various mismatched coaxial speakers and some add on tweets, consider investing in some high quality components, with seperate midrange, tweeter, and a crossover to keep things seperated. If exceptional sound quality and imaging is what you want, this is the way to fly. Components offer much better quality and accuracy compared to coaxials.
Also, you should probably change out the breaker to a fuse setup. Breakers are nice if you need to shut down the line all the time, but if a fuse blows/breaker throws, there is always a cause, and neglecting it by just flipping a switch instead of finding out why before replacing a fuse can result in many bad things, worst that come to mind is a shorted wire that is making a spark every time that breaker is thrown. Safety First!!
You are definitely on the right path, but I have couple of questions. What kind of vehicle are you putting this rig in, and what enclosure type are you thinking for the W6's? I don't see them in a sealed box going into the high 140's, but a well designed ported box will probably do it, and at the cost of all you hard earned clarity, bandpass will more than likely do it with ease.
SQLThump
flynn on 04/30/2008 13:48:03
to SQLTHUMP, ok, I'll lose the cap- saves me money!!! This is going into a 1998 Nissan Frontier kingcab. The mb quartz are actually 6s not 5 1/4's. I'd originally bought them for rear fill but then thought maybe i would put them in fiberglass and mount them just above the infinity 6s on the door panels....probably overkill. I think I'll just keep them for fill in the rear. What do you think? The infinity Kappas 6's are NOT coaxial but they are the bottom half of a component set in which i dont have the matching tweeters or crossovers for. Are the amplifier and deck crossovers not sufficient? Are these Infinitys not high quality speakers? I was looking at matching them up with a good tweeter- the JL ct 100 (1 inch aluminum dome 75 watt rms). if this is not a good matchup do you have another suggestion for a good and reliable tweet? Also what size fuse and type of fuse would you recommend for this application and should i locate it in the same place as the breaker would have been? What type(brand) of distro block should i use? Should the positive distro block be fused as well? If so what size?
Next , the box is made out of 1 inch mdf and each side is slot ported.It will be built exactly to Jl specs.
newB on 05/1/2008 02:11:40
as an ease of reading tip- separate your thoughts with space lines in between GRIN
like thought 1
then thought 2
question 1
question 2
-Drew
SQLThump on 05/1/2008 09:47:37
First, try breaking up your posts a little with seperate paragraphs, I can read it fine, but some of the older crowd sees a wall o' text.
First, wow, thats a lot to cram into a pickup. I assume the backseat will be gonzo?
Thank you for losing the cap. This will make life much easier in the long run, and on your wallet.
Before glassing, always think about whats going in the glass. MB Quart is some pretty good stuff, but coaxials in general are always lacking in sound quality (there are a few exceptions) compared to a component set of similar power handling. These will work, but not the most optimized setup.
As for the Infinity's, they are respectable gear for SQL system use, but nothing groundbreaking as far as SQ. Nice and loud, pretty clean, but not for the purists of sound quality. I am currently using only a set of Infinity 5000CS compnents for my highs and mids with no rear fill, and I am satisfied with them, but could go for something better as always. But they do keep up nicely with my bass engine.
Unfortunatly, missing the tweeters and the crossover is a problem. Crossovers in amplifiers and head units work fine for their purpose, which is to seperate top end speakers and subwoofers, not to seperate individual drivers within a component set. Midranges and tweeters need a higher crossover point than just about any H/U or amp will provide, and if not crossed over with a passive X-over, they will need individual channels of power for each driver, with stereo sound and four drivers, thats four channels. Seems like a lot of effort for just a component set.
As for the JL tweeters, Trying to pair them with the Infinity mid's would be difficult to accomplish successfully. I am not too sure of the powerr handling of the mids, but doubt it is above 35-40 RMS. Pairing that with a 75 RMS tweeter will result in a midrange that wants to kick the bucket before that power hungry tweeter wants to get out of bed.
At this point, I would say, and I hate to, scrap the mids, and don't buy those tweets. If you want to get something going on quickly, use the MB's in a non permanent situation for starters, and chill out and see if you can find a good deal on some components. For these I would reccomend brands like Infinity, POLK or JBL. These guys have many great enrty level component sets.
If you have a discerning taste and some extra cash to blow, products from Diamond Audio, MB Quart and FoCal come to mind. Although each has it's own unique sound, I find them to be the best I have heard so far. Seletcing upper range speakers comes down a lot to musical taste, and personal sound preference. It all comes down to the ear of the end consumer.
Replacing the breaker with a fuse is a good call. When doing this, take the maximum current draw from the fuses on your amps, add them together, and find a fuse as close as possible to this overall value. If you can't find it exact, fusing under is better provided you are properly use your amps so they don't see maximum current draw.
Dont worry about fusing the distribution blocks if you amps are fused. That's what they are there for. The fuse in the line is to protect the battery in case of short. If you are using all Monster wiring (great choice), yoi may as well use their blocks and battery terminals as well. All of them are great products.
An enclosure design, with that much power, should get you into the 135's, maybe low 140's, but I wouldn't hold my breath on much more than that, unless you get real lucky. Trucks have really small cabs compared to other types of vehicles, so natural cabin DB gains are not going to have too strong an effect, and may cause your resonance peak to be at an annoyingly high point.
What amp are you planning to use for your main speakers? If you really want exceptional sound quality, at no point will H/U power cut it.
Don't mean to pick your plan apart dude, but I want to save you some of the trouble you may get yourself into. Generally, (especally true with top end drivers) simplicity is the way to get the best results. More speakers, amps, subs and other components usually make for more things to possibly fail or not work later down the road, and the more complex a rig is, the more difficult it is to make every part work in unison with the others. Stick around, and we'll figure you something out that will be simple, and blow your buddies minds with how much can come from so little.....
SQLThump
flynn on 05/1/2008 11:12:03
-what speaker brand, model (specifically )component setup would you recommend that will keep up with my bass engine with the best sq possible in mind? both entry level and money no object. a few of each would be appreciated.
-what about purchasing matching infinity kappa tweeters to pair with what i have. they would come with crossovers for the tweets i imagine.
- i have an infinity 7541a 4ch amp to run my mids with. its already been purchased.....bought 4 channels expecting to rear fill. oh well. maybe a component setup that will handle that amp bridged?
- i listen to alot of heavy music, Tool, metallica, godsmack, disturbed, nine inch nail etc. Also alot of electronic music, house, trance, etc.
SQLThump on 05/1/2008 23:10:21
Nice choice of amp, that will do the job nicely. You can still use rear fill, It would only take 4 channels if you wanted to crosover the JL and Infinity speakers porperly. A complete component set can be used with two channels, or four if it is Bi Amp capable and you choose to do that, but ot a neccessity.
Buying tweets with crossovers can work, but one of the issues is keeping the mid out of the tweeter frequencies. You would need to find the rest of the same run of Kappa's tweeters, and the full crossover to get better than ghetto results.
The MB's you have will work great for rear fill if you want to use them. Remember though, rear fill is not neccessery for proper imaging. I personally don't care much for it, and find my front Infinity comps. do the job of filling the car fine fine.
As far as reccomending components, I would say the Infinity Kappa or reference, the JBL GTO series would be fy first second and third choice for entry level comps. The Focal Polyglas and Utopia are great comps, anything Diamond audio kicks ass, (Diamond speakers are quite pricey, their flagship D9 series 7" component set calling for a $1700 retail price last time I checked), though I am not too sure of any MB model lines. I think it was the Reference series I heard, I have on;y heard the components once, but have heard other gear from them a few times. Mindblowing every time.
Recommending upper range speakers can be difficult, as manufacturers make certian compromises to make their speakers. It would virtually impossible to make a perfect set for everybody, due to the many different tastes of audiophiles worldwide.
Personally, I think the Diamond D9's are the sweetest I have ever heard, but at that price, I won't be owning them any time soon. As far as entry level goes, I would roll with the Reference series any day of the week. But my tastes lean more to an odd blend of gangsta rap, classical and death metal.
Your best bet to select you a set of comps that you will love, go to some big box stores, listen to some high grade home audio speakers, take note of which ones you like, and what the tonal balance and imaging is like,and then listen to a variety of components and find some that sound the most like the home audio speakers speakers that you found to be your favorite. This will give yo a decent idea of how your speakers will perform, though not exact to how these will sound in your truck.
Make sure you bring some of your favorite CDs, and listen to songs on them that you would think would difficult for a speaker to reproduce. Really audition them well, and then decide from there which will create the rock concert on wheels that you desire.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/2/2008 18:22:22
- ok so ive tracked down a set of diamond hex s600' s, they are a level above the D6. thats ok? . Included in the crossover is rear acoustic fill outputs, hows that for beautiful!!!!!!!
- my next question, Is the soundstream picasso pca 2000d the right amp for this sub setup (2 jl 13w6's)? i was told that power coustic makes soundstream amps now and that it was a bad thing. ive looked up its review online and it "seems" ok but what do you know about them? if im making a bad choice what do you recommend that will push these subs at a consistent 500 to 700 rms each, affordably ?
- There is an older diamond amplifier D6 1000.1 thats rated at 1000 rms @ 1 ohm on ebay right now? still under 200 bucks. Not quite enough juice though i dont think.
- my main concern is to not under power them , not even a little bit. so even if i find an amp (picasso) that "says" it will push too much power (2000rms) at 1 ohm, its ratings at 4 ohms seem perfect for my application (1100). ive found those numbers are never right. i was thinking 2000rms@1 ohm is going to be more like 1100 to 1400 rms@ 1 ohm. what do you think? the amps ratings are 2000@1 ohm, 1500@2 0hm, 1100@1 ohm - Also this amp is not fused.
- and by the way THANK YOU for letting me brainscan you. You've been extremely helpul so far. i appreciate it.
SQLThump on 05/2/2008 19:29:23
No problem man. Thats what we are here for.
Great choice on the Hex series subs. Not too sure of the power ratings on them, or how the rear acoustic outputs work, but Diamond products rock man! I am sure you will be pleased with their performance.
I have never worked with SoundStream products, but I would be a bit wishywashy about using them if I found out they were made by Power Acoustic. I do know they were the cream of the crop products back in the day.
Personally, I would take 1000 Diamond Audio watts over 2000 Power Acoustic watts any day, but I feel the concern of underpowering them. Under $200 for that D6'er is one hell of a deal too.You could try to get the 2000RMS at 1 ohm from the Soundstream, and we can use a DMM to make sure you are sending a nice 1100 watts to your W6's
If you do elect to use the unfused amp, look up the maximum current draw from somewhere, and feed us the number. From there we can tell you based on that rating the realistic amount of power that amp can make, as well as what to fuse it's lead from the D-block at. You will need to do this if the amp isn't fused itself.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/2/2008 22:13:47
-diamond hex s600's are 6.5 components, not subs, ratings are 150 rms/ 300 max
- will that diamond D6 amp be enough to power two jl 13w6's to the spl level im looking for (140's) in a ported box? if not do you know what will ?
SQLThump on 05/2/2008 22:22:04
Thats what I figured on the diamonds.They will be wanting some power, and the Infinity amp is 75x4 correct? these may be a little too stout for this amp, and you may want to select either a more power amp, or more efficient speakers.
Whether or not you can make your SPL goal is dependant more on the drivers and enclosures used than raw amplifier power. You could power the pair of subs at 550RMS and see only a penalty of 3DB under full power. Fully powering subs changes the nature of tonal balance more than it does raw SPL in my opinion, which is important. Cabin gain and enclosure design will determine overall SPL more than available power
If you can, try to find an older D61200.1. This would power those JL subs quite nicely, with a nice amount of headroom.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/2/2008 22:24:41
- what about the diamond D7401?
SQLThump on 05/2/2008 22:52:35
For the subs? That wouldnt do much for them power wise.......
flynn on 05/2/2008 22:56:19
- yes the infinity is 75x4
-what about bridging the infinity to the components? If I use y-adapters off of my front rcas will i still be able to get stereo sound if i bridge it by putting both channels on stereo mode?
SQLThump on 05/4/2008 13:04:50
Bridging the Infinity to two channels can work, you will take the Y splits and put both lefts to the fronts, and both rights to the rears. Only problem here, is we have to adjust the left and right comps individually, which can make dailing in equally tricky, but by no means impossible. This wouldn't be a bad way to go, but we lose channels for rear fill if so desired.
SQLThump
flynn on 05/4/2008 17:16:10
small secondary amp for rear fill.......... but i think with the right power to those diamonds i aint gonna need rear fill especially in a pickup truck. I think i just wanted rear fill because my crappy pg comps i have now arent keeping up with the alpine type r-12 i have. So ill take your advice and try the diamond comps up front solo. THANKS AGAIN!
SQLThump on 05/4/2008 18:42:21
No problem bro. I doubt you will need rear fill with the D6's too. Stick to the plan, and keep us posted to how it turns out.
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