Buying a system 2

by Mr.Papageorgio
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Well, I posted yesterday about buying a system for my car. I don't know anything at all about car audio. I tried to reply to my other topic, and I feel dumb, but I don't see anywhere at all where you can reply, how do you? Anyways, I wanted to buy an amp for my car. My dad gave me his two old speakers/subs from like 1990. They are MTX 10" 8 ohm. So what would be a good amp for that, at a decent price($100-$220). I was looking at this amp, how would it go? http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id=1051384106632&skuId=5264126&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085 Thats the one I saw, how would that work. Right now, I just want an amp to give more power to my subs, because their running off my reciever right now. Also, I have my standard reciever in my car, do I need to buy a new one of those before I get an amp, or can I just buy an amp and that be fine? Thanks for all the help.

P.S. If you didn't see above, can you please tell me how to reply to a message on the forum.


Replies (4)
uochronos on 09/4/2003 03:45:52
Well to reply you just have to be loged in and then there is a box down at the bottom to type in..
there is a few things you have to know to get an amp. 1 what kind of HU are you using if its your stock HU Does it have the preout for the amp to run off of. 2 what are these subs rated for MTX 10" 8 ohms early 90s is pretty generic reference if you get too big an amp you well just blow the speakers voice coil. but then again if these speakers are decent and need 100+ watts of power each then the 120 watts RMS that the amp you where looking at wont be able to power them very well.. matter what kind of power these subs want. you can probaly find another amp that better suits them for around 80-120$..

also i dont know alot about this part but from what you said your runing these subs off your reciever. that doesnt seem like a great idea to me if your runing them of regular speaker channels and dont have a cross over or something to give them just low frequencies if your giveing your subs the full spectrum they wont sound right and i believe you could potentialy damage them.

when swez and some of the other guys reply they can probaly help more but i hope i helped a little



Swez on 09/4/2003 15:25:37
Those MTX may be the 2000 series predecessors. Since they are 8 ohm, can wire them in parallel for a 4 ohm load and Bridge the amp mono. (Use a 2 channel amp here)

For that price range and subs of unknown power handling capacity, I would stay with a modest amp of under 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. Have a look at these selections that meet your price range.

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-C9dsAX5DX77/ProdView.asp?s=0&cc=01&c=3&g=110&I=235USB2100

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-C9dsAX5DX77/ProdView.asp?s=0&cc=01&c=3&g=110&I=235USB2150

http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Ultra_Linear/UL_classa.htm
the UL 2150 is plenty of power

http://www.justamps.com/Amp_Pages/Lanzar/Lanzar_viberant.htm
VIBE228

http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/power_acoustik_amplifiers.html
PA2-520 Amplifier - 125x2 @ 4ohm - 300 watts RMS total $99.99


How is that for bargain hunting and decent amps as well... especially the US Acoustics amps

Also, these subs, inspect them carefully in the surround part of the sub. That's the spongy roll (foam/rubber) that anchors the cone to the basket. If they are dry rot, have holes or cracks, they may not last very long. If you spot cracks and tear away now, fix it before you install them. Latex sealer should work if they are somewhat stable and latex remains soft and pliable to a degree. Silicone (RTV) is also good on some repairs to cones.., but may eat foam based suurounds.

Also, you will need a power wiring kit to connect the amp to your electrical. A #8 gage power kit is fine if you only want a sub amp of modest power. You'll need a #8 ground wire, a 40A fuse holder and a REMOTE power turn on wire off the IGN/ACC tap in fuse panel.

To connect your amp to the radio (HU) you can simply add a few feet of speaker wire to the rear speakers and feed these into the high signal input stage of the amp.

I'll let you digest that a while since you are new...

Swez



Mr.Papageorgio on 09/5/2003 00:49:22
Well, first of all, I guess in AOL, I keep don't cookies or something, so it never kept me logged in, which stopped me form replying. Internet explorer works fine...back to topic.

Well, it turns out my speakers aren't really subs. There loudspeakers with a 10'' woofer and highs and mids, or something like that. So what is the difference between a woofer and a subwoofer?

I went to Al and Ed's Autosound today. I talked to a sales guy and I told him about my situation, so he went to my trunk to see the speakers. He looked at them and asked the Ohms, and I said 8. So he went inside and showed me amps that work good, I told him i wanted to spend under $200. So he showed me this Alpine amp http://www.al-eds.com/indexframe.php4?whatpage=http://www.smartcart.com/alneds/cgi/searchqu.cgi?terms=Amplifiers::&category=Amplifiers He said this would give the right amount of power at 4 ohms, but anything less would not provide enough power. He gave me some money off and other what not to make it $195 including tax and everything. Is that amp good enough and would it work? Hows this deal, even if it may be alittle high, im not gonna buy off the internet, so stores are my only options.


Swez on 09/5/2003 05:26:56
Which model Alpine amp is that you are looking at? Am having difficulty tracking down the one you referenced. Model number please.

Woofers are low frequency speakers that are typically found in Home Stero, PA and car audio. Depending on the design, they may good performance over a wide frequency range. Say ~ 40 - 800 Hz or so.

Subwoofers are designed for a more narrow band of frequencies and only intended to produce low bass... ~25 - 200 Hz.

As long as the amp can give you ~200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms when bridged... should be fine for car sub applications. You will need to set your low pass filter to around 80-100 Hz and the interior car speakers will handle the rest.

Swez



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