I have a set of Infinity Reference 5010c's ..
http://www.shopping.com/xPO-Infinity-Infinity-Reference-5010CS-Component-Speaker-System-5-1-4-2-Way-with-Soft-Dome-Tweeter
My original amp I purchased is a 4 channel Alpine MRP-F250
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cWzzmPtapl5/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=500MRPF250&c=3&tp=115
Swez you told me the Md Sound amp is a good 2 channel amp to power front component speakers..
http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Automotive/Landing4681a61.html
I was planning on bridging the 4 channel amp but is the MD sound amp a better choice to power them???
Last question..
My current setup is..
Single Sub
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_8754_Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+P2D412.html
Sub Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=575P3001P&c=3&tp=115
will I be able to do 2 of the same setup instead of selling my old amp and buying a 2 channel?
Replies (8)
swez on 03/12/2008 20:28:48
Since you already have the Ref 5010 cs speakers and the Alpine F250, I would stay with that plan and just bridge the F250 down to a 2 channel version. (100 x 2 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) The amp is solid and is rated a little bit higher than the 5010's and that's a good thing! (25 watts to spare per channel)
The Md sound amp looks good on paper and low cost, but I have no idea how well it is built and if it will stand the test of time like the Alpine has. In short, use what you have noted above and it'll be solid.
As for the sub and sub amp combo mentioned, that's a solid combo too. This sub is rated at 250 Wrms, 2 ohms when both coils are wired in parallel and the amp delivers a solid 300 + Wrms @ 2 ohms. (Look at the birth sheet and see what numbers were actually obtained when tested) If it's like most RF amps, it will deliver more power than rated.
The only drawback I see on this RF amp, it's a Class A/B MONO amp. They draw more current at full power than a Class D MONO amp of the same power rating. (Better efficiencies and less heat) But not a bad amp at all.
When looking at both amps, the RF will draw about 50-55 A's at full power and the Alpine is more like 27A's. That is manageable for most electrical systems unless one plays them hard all the time. (Smart folks don't)
In a nutshell, this combo should be enough to please all but the SPL/ Bass Heads and other types that really abuse their gear. Enjoy the gear, but don't abuse it OK?
Swez
cplkittle on 03/12/2008 20:55:47
On the first question, I would look for something that is closer to the 75w RMS the speakers ask for. The 2 options mentioned are 120watts RMS and 40watts RMS. While the MD sound amp offers 120 watts RMS @4 ohms, I do not understand where they get the 1200 watt peak rating. That turns me off to that amplifier.
I recommend this amp:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=108R475A&tp=115
Second question:
If you buy another sub and another amp, that would be a good setup. I would not recommend running two subs on the same amp.
iXvXi on 03/13/2008 11:08:34
Yeah.. the MD sound amp came from my sisters old system so It was just laying around...(I also don't know how its built or anything so I wouldn't know)
I was thinking in selling her old system and buy another of the same combo with the p2 and p3 amp.
but that would push me over the 105A that my alternator puts out..
Would I be able to do the big three and upgrade all my wiring then maybe purchase a capacitor? Or would I be in a position where I'd have to purchase another alternator?
swez on 03/13/2008 20:00:46
Forget the Cap idea. For the money spent here, other things can be done really do work.
One thing to consider is the Big 3 upgrade. That is not expensive and just leave the factory lines in tact as well. Here, #4 gage lines are very adequate.
Adding another matching amp and sub will bring up the bass about +6dB. That's a good bump in SPL, but an expensive one too. (ALT/BAT upgrades) This RF amp version is clean and moderate in power output, but since it's a Class A/B amplifier, current draw is notably higher than the Class D versions out there. (Something to consider carefully if you want to really pump up the bass)
One low cost thing to consider here, a ported box for the RF sub. Ported boxes offer about +3dB more bass at the port tuning frequency range. This amp does not have a subsonic filter, so if you elected to try a ported enclosure, be sure to add one.
Swez
PS Have you tried adjusting the amp gain settings with a meter yet? If not, you may have more bass in this amp that is not being used. The target voltage reading would be 24.5 Volts AC for a full 300 watts to the 2 ohm sub.
iXvXi on 03/13/2008 21:36:35
Is there a Amp that you could recommend that would power 2 rockford p2s that would keep it under the 105A's or am I done as far as not doing a complete upgrade?
cplkittle on 03/13/2008 23:18:57
You need an amplifier rated at 500 w RMS @ 1 ohm.
It will probably be advertised as a 1000 watt amp.
A 1000 watt amp should have a fuse rating of 70-75 amps. This indicates peak power comsumption. A 1000 watt amp with 2 x 20 amp fuses is not a true 1000 watt amp.
Now remember that you will not be pulling 70 amps all of the time, you may never hit the max draw of the amp (if you did the fuse would blow). If you do the big 3 and upgrade the battery you should be able to get away with this setup without any serious power deficinecy issues. Unless you are one of those dedicated bass heads that listens to everything wide open GRIN
iXvXi on 03/14/2008 10:00:23
Thank You Very Much!!!
I'd rather know what im looking for then bother someone else by asking..
swez on 03/14/2008 15:30:43
The HiFonics BXi-606 would be a very solid match for a pair of those RF subs. At 1 ohm loads, this amp will produce a solid 600 Wrms and probably a tad more.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16363
The price is very good for an amp with this much power, features and reliability. It's also a Class D amp with very good efficiency rtaings, thanks to the new high speed switching power supply used in them.
Swez
http://www.shopping.com/xPO-Infinity-Infinity-Reference-5010CS-Component-Speaker-System-5-1-4-2-Way-with-Soft-Dome-Tweeter
My original amp I purchased is a 4 channel Alpine MRP-F250
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cWzzmPtapl5/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=500MRPF250&c=3&tp=115
Swez you told me the Md Sound amp is a good 2 channel amp to power front component speakers..
http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Automotive/Landing4681a61.html
I was planning on bridging the 4 channel amp but is the MD sound amp a better choice to power them???
Last question..
My current setup is..
Single Sub
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_8754_Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+P2D412.html
Sub Amp
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=575P3001P&c=3&tp=115
will I be able to do 2 of the same setup instead of selling my old amp and buying a 2 channel?
Replies (8)
swez on 03/12/2008 20:28:48
Since you already have the Ref 5010 cs speakers and the Alpine F250, I would stay with that plan and just bridge the F250 down to a 2 channel version. (100 x 2 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) The amp is solid and is rated a little bit higher than the 5010's and that's a good thing! (25 watts to spare per channel)
The Md sound amp looks good on paper and low cost, but I have no idea how well it is built and if it will stand the test of time like the Alpine has. In short, use what you have noted above and it'll be solid.
As for the sub and sub amp combo mentioned, that's a solid combo too. This sub is rated at 250 Wrms, 2 ohms when both coils are wired in parallel and the amp delivers a solid 300 + Wrms @ 2 ohms. (Look at the birth sheet and see what numbers were actually obtained when tested) If it's like most RF amps, it will deliver more power than rated.
The only drawback I see on this RF amp, it's a Class A/B MONO amp. They draw more current at full power than a Class D MONO amp of the same power rating. (Better efficiencies and less heat) But not a bad amp at all.
When looking at both amps, the RF will draw about 50-55 A's at full power and the Alpine is more like 27A's. That is manageable for most electrical systems unless one plays them hard all the time. (Smart folks don't)
In a nutshell, this combo should be enough to please all but the SPL/ Bass Heads and other types that really abuse their gear. Enjoy the gear, but don't abuse it OK?
Swez
cplkittle on 03/12/2008 20:55:47
On the first question, I would look for something that is closer to the 75w RMS the speakers ask for. The 2 options mentioned are 120watts RMS and 40watts RMS. While the MD sound amp offers 120 watts RMS @4 ohms, I do not understand where they get the 1200 watt peak rating. That turns me off to that amplifier.
I recommend this amp:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=108R475A&tp=115
Second question:
If you buy another sub and another amp, that would be a good setup. I would not recommend running two subs on the same amp.
iXvXi on 03/13/2008 11:08:34
Yeah.. the MD sound amp came from my sisters old system so It was just laying around...(I also don't know how its built or anything so I wouldn't know)
I was thinking in selling her old system and buy another of the same combo with the p2 and p3 amp.
but that would push me over the 105A that my alternator puts out..
Would I be able to do the big three and upgrade all my wiring then maybe purchase a capacitor? Or would I be in a position where I'd have to purchase another alternator?
swez on 03/13/2008 20:00:46
Forget the Cap idea. For the money spent here, other things can be done really do work.
One thing to consider is the Big 3 upgrade. That is not expensive and just leave the factory lines in tact as well. Here, #4 gage lines are very adequate.
Adding another matching amp and sub will bring up the bass about +6dB. That's a good bump in SPL, but an expensive one too. (ALT/BAT upgrades) This RF amp version is clean and moderate in power output, but since it's a Class A/B amplifier, current draw is notably higher than the Class D versions out there. (Something to consider carefully if you want to really pump up the bass)
One low cost thing to consider here, a ported box for the RF sub. Ported boxes offer about +3dB more bass at the port tuning frequency range. This amp does not have a subsonic filter, so if you elected to try a ported enclosure, be sure to add one.
Swez
PS Have you tried adjusting the amp gain settings with a meter yet? If not, you may have more bass in this amp that is not being used. The target voltage reading would be 24.5 Volts AC for a full 300 watts to the 2 ohm sub.
iXvXi on 03/13/2008 21:36:35
Is there a Amp that you could recommend that would power 2 rockford p2s that would keep it under the 105A's or am I done as far as not doing a complete upgrade?
cplkittle on 03/13/2008 23:18:57
You need an amplifier rated at 500 w RMS @ 1 ohm.
It will probably be advertised as a 1000 watt amp.
A 1000 watt amp should have a fuse rating of 70-75 amps. This indicates peak power comsumption. A 1000 watt amp with 2 x 20 amp fuses is not a true 1000 watt amp.
Now remember that you will not be pulling 70 amps all of the time, you may never hit the max draw of the amp (if you did the fuse would blow). If you do the big 3 and upgrade the battery you should be able to get away with this setup without any serious power deficinecy issues. Unless you are one of those dedicated bass heads that listens to everything wide open GRIN
iXvXi on 03/14/2008 10:00:23
Thank You Very Much!!!
I'd rather know what im looking for then bother someone else by asking..
swez on 03/14/2008 15:30:43
The HiFonics BXi-606 would be a very solid match for a pair of those RF subs. At 1 ohm loads, this amp will produce a solid 600 Wrms and probably a tad more.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16363
The price is very good for an amp with this much power, features and reliability. It's also a Class D amp with very good efficiency rtaings, thanks to the new high speed switching power supply used in them.
Swez
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