I have two Kicker L7 15's powered by a Power Acoustik 5500 class d mono amp. Just the other night my subs started making a pop sound while they are playing and it's not noticeable if they are almost all the way up but I was listening to them kinda softly and heard them do this. Well it's getting worse everyday it seems. So what could this be? I have a BatCap on the amp and a 100 amp alternator with a battery that's got 932 cold cranking amps or something very close to that. I got a JVC cd player and a couple of midranges and highs that run off a Kicker 350.4. The pop doesn't affect them, just the subs.
Replies (14)
cplkittle on 03/11/2008 16:02:42
The pop in this case is the voice coil moving too far and hitting the back of the sub. Or the voice coil is warped and rubbing the side of the sub and shorting out. Normally this is caused by overexcursion stretching the sub out so that there is little or no mechanical resistance left to keep the speaker from exceeding its limits. A ripped spider can cause this also. A warped voice coil is usually caused by overheating. Distortion or overpowering the sub will cause it to overheat.
The subs are not that good anymore, and will need to be replaced.
They might last a little longer if you put them in a fairly small sealed box. Before you run out and buy more though, we need to find out why they did this, or every sub you put in this box will do the same thing.
1) What kind of box is this (ported, sealed, bandpass) , and did you buy it or build it yourself?
2) What are the dimensions of the box including the port size if it is ported?
3) Does the amplifier have a subsonic filter?
4) What are the gain settings on the amplifier?
5) What are the voice coil resistances per coil, and total resistance at the amp?
If you don't know the answer to one of the questions, please ask and we will explain how to find out.
Welcome to CK !
2Keez on 03/11/2008 16:21:27
1.) It's a sealed box and I bought it from one of the local car audio stores.
2.) I'll have to measure it but it's not very big at all. I can't say it's small because it holds two 15's but in the world of 15's it's kinda tiny.
3.) Yes 15hz-40hz
4.) I got it just a little past halfway.
5.) Please explain.
newB on 03/11/2008 18:15:52
for #5 your going to need a Digital Multi Meter
do you have access to one?
-Drew
2Keez on 03/11/2008 18:55:47
Yea I can get my brothers.
swez on 03/12/2008 11:32:22
Use the "Bass Boost" feature on the amp or HU sparingly too. When large subs are loaded into very small sealed enclosures, they lack good low bass and many try to compesate for that with more Bass boost. (Bad idea) This practice normally heats up the coils, causes them to char or separate from the spider or other sub damage can show up later.
Swez
2Keez on 03/12/2008 17:47:09
I'm lookin' at building a custom box to put in the back of my truck( in the extended cab area, I'm gonna remove the back seat.) When I do that, would you suggest a ported or sealed box?
cplkittle on 03/12/2008 18:08:27
Ported will be louder and enhance the lower notes if it is built properly. What kid of truck is it?
If you want to build a ported box yourself, we will help you design it and walk you through it step by step.
A smaller sealed box should have enough backpressure to keep the subs from overexcursion, so overheating is probably the culprit here. Do you know the voice coil ratings of the subs? (dual 4 ohm, dual 2 ohm, single 4 ohm...)
2Keez on 03/13/2008 12:50:45
It's a 94 GMC Sierra Extended Cab. They are dual 2 ohm. They are wired down to 1 ohm. But somebody told me that they couldn't be wired down to 1 ohm and both be hooked to a 1 ohm stable amp. Is that true?
swez on 03/13/2008 15:24:59
Correct!
One cannot get a 1 ohm load from a pair of dual 2 ohm DVC subs. You can get 2 ohms and that's fine for most Class D amps. (Series/Parallel configuration)
The other option is all coils in parallel... 2/4 = 0.5 ohms. Here, most would use a High Current amp to manage the load. This type of amp is very expensive, draws a huge amount of current and not very efficient either. Don't go there as the price tag is too high for many reasons.
Swez
2Keez on 03/13/2008 15:48:41
Then how do I need to wire them? It's a Power Acoustik 5500 Class D (Mono, One Channel, Etc.) and 2 Kicker 2 ohm L7 15's.
Victor on 03/13/2008 17:24:32
you can wire those L715's for a net load of 2 ohms to that amp... each sub will get around 1200wrms...
This is how you can wire them...
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
the L7 is designed to take 1000wrms...
u can give it a tad bit more power, no issue will only give better cleaner performance.... go a tad bit low on gains, and opt for a sealed enclosure to control levels of cone excursion... a 2.5 cuft enclosure for each sub would be just a perfect balance of Transient response and SPL..
I see this to be a good nice bass engine in terms of tight loud bass...
avoid going ported if you are not sure how well to handle the power....
Victor....
PS : Do you think your cars electricals, Battery and Alternator have enough juice to feeed that amp... ???
2Keez on 03/13/2008 17:39:38
I know that I need another battery, because I've got a batcap 400 that's getting me by for the moment but I've got to get another battery to go in there and probably an iraggi alternator. I want to take out the backseat and put in a really nice box. Do you guys think you could tell me what would sound the best as far as spl and sq? What I would really love to have is some dimension's to build the box. It's a 94 Gmc sierra ext. cab. If you could help me with that, that would be great! Thanks for everything so far.
P.S. I just talked to the guys at Kicker today and I'm fixing to send in the speakers and get them replaced or repaired. So I've got some down time to build the box :)
Victor on 03/13/2008 17:47:08
do you use any realtime messenger??
yahoo or msn...
victorginger@yahoo.com
victorexports@hotmail.com
2Keez on 03/17/2008 16:30:22
Yes.
dwy_kingofdasouth@yahoo.com
Replies (14)
cplkittle on 03/11/2008 16:02:42
The pop in this case is the voice coil moving too far and hitting the back of the sub. Or the voice coil is warped and rubbing the side of the sub and shorting out. Normally this is caused by overexcursion stretching the sub out so that there is little or no mechanical resistance left to keep the speaker from exceeding its limits. A ripped spider can cause this also. A warped voice coil is usually caused by overheating. Distortion or overpowering the sub will cause it to overheat.
The subs are not that good anymore, and will need to be replaced.
They might last a little longer if you put them in a fairly small sealed box. Before you run out and buy more though, we need to find out why they did this, or every sub you put in this box will do the same thing.
1) What kind of box is this (ported, sealed, bandpass) , and did you buy it or build it yourself?
2) What are the dimensions of the box including the port size if it is ported?
3) Does the amplifier have a subsonic filter?
4) What are the gain settings on the amplifier?
5) What are the voice coil resistances per coil, and total resistance at the amp?
If you don't know the answer to one of the questions, please ask and we will explain how to find out.
Welcome to CK !
2Keez on 03/11/2008 16:21:27
1.) It's a sealed box and I bought it from one of the local car audio stores.
2.) I'll have to measure it but it's not very big at all. I can't say it's small because it holds two 15's but in the world of 15's it's kinda tiny.
3.) Yes 15hz-40hz
4.) I got it just a little past halfway.
5.) Please explain.
newB on 03/11/2008 18:15:52
for #5 your going to need a Digital Multi Meter
do you have access to one?
-Drew
2Keez on 03/11/2008 18:55:47
Yea I can get my brothers.
swez on 03/12/2008 11:32:22
Use the "Bass Boost" feature on the amp or HU sparingly too. When large subs are loaded into very small sealed enclosures, they lack good low bass and many try to compesate for that with more Bass boost. (Bad idea) This practice normally heats up the coils, causes them to char or separate from the spider or other sub damage can show up later.
Swez
2Keez on 03/12/2008 17:47:09
I'm lookin' at building a custom box to put in the back of my truck( in the extended cab area, I'm gonna remove the back seat.) When I do that, would you suggest a ported or sealed box?
cplkittle on 03/12/2008 18:08:27
Ported will be louder and enhance the lower notes if it is built properly. What kid of truck is it?
If you want to build a ported box yourself, we will help you design it and walk you through it step by step.
A smaller sealed box should have enough backpressure to keep the subs from overexcursion, so overheating is probably the culprit here. Do you know the voice coil ratings of the subs? (dual 4 ohm, dual 2 ohm, single 4 ohm...)
2Keez on 03/13/2008 12:50:45
It's a 94 GMC Sierra Extended Cab. They are dual 2 ohm. They are wired down to 1 ohm. But somebody told me that they couldn't be wired down to 1 ohm and both be hooked to a 1 ohm stable amp. Is that true?
swez on 03/13/2008 15:24:59
Correct!
One cannot get a 1 ohm load from a pair of dual 2 ohm DVC subs. You can get 2 ohms and that's fine for most Class D amps. (Series/Parallel configuration)
The other option is all coils in parallel... 2/4 = 0.5 ohms. Here, most would use a High Current amp to manage the load. This type of amp is very expensive, draws a huge amount of current and not very efficient either. Don't go there as the price tag is too high for many reasons.
Swez
2Keez on 03/13/2008 15:48:41
Then how do I need to wire them? It's a Power Acoustik 5500 Class D (Mono, One Channel, Etc.) and 2 Kicker 2 ohm L7 15's.
Victor on 03/13/2008 17:24:32
you can wire those L715's for a net load of 2 ohms to that amp... each sub will get around 1200wrms...
This is how you can wire them...
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
the L7 is designed to take 1000wrms...
u can give it a tad bit more power, no issue will only give better cleaner performance.... go a tad bit low on gains, and opt for a sealed enclosure to control levels of cone excursion... a 2.5 cuft enclosure for each sub would be just a perfect balance of Transient response and SPL..
I see this to be a good nice bass engine in terms of tight loud bass...
avoid going ported if you are not sure how well to handle the power....
Victor....
PS : Do you think your cars electricals, Battery and Alternator have enough juice to feeed that amp... ???
2Keez on 03/13/2008 17:39:38
I know that I need another battery, because I've got a batcap 400 that's getting me by for the moment but I've got to get another battery to go in there and probably an iraggi alternator. I want to take out the backseat and put in a really nice box. Do you guys think you could tell me what would sound the best as far as spl and sq? What I would really love to have is some dimension's to build the box. It's a 94 Gmc sierra ext. cab. If you could help me with that, that would be great! Thanks for everything so far.
P.S. I just talked to the guys at Kicker today and I'm fixing to send in the speakers and get them replaced or repaired. So I've got some down time to build the box :)
Victor on 03/13/2008 17:47:08
do you use any realtime messenger??
yahoo or msn...
victorginger@yahoo.com
victorexports@hotmail.com
2Keez on 03/17/2008 16:30:22
Yes.
dwy_kingofdasouth@yahoo.com
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