my old box has been sitting my my trunk for almost a year without full use and i just recently got the nerve to pull it out with confidence that it wont come back to haunt me. The fiberglass piece and box material are useless outside the car because the fiberglass doesnt fit anything else and the wood is all torn up and ruined. now that i have more experience i think i can rebuild a similar system but better for two 10s in plenty of airspace if needed. i also have plenty of extra boxes in my shed i can drop in as a temp setup till i do another complete rebuild.
only pic
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e216/saxwonder05/trunk.jpg
and because i tend to post all my ideas online for review, i drew this up for a potential home theater box. i noticed my standard Kenwood home theater powered woofer was a 8" in ~1cuft tuned really high. i replaced it with the 1.5cuft slot fent box for my 10 and really enjoyed the extra output so i designed this in 1.5@40hz.
because it will be next to my entertainment center i want it to look good, so i will be using a nicer wood, thinking .75" ply of some kind i still need to look into it a bit more. to avoid the look of overlapping pieces with the nice wood, i would be doing 45degree cuts on all edges making something like this-
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e216/saxwonder05/D1.png
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e216/saxwonder05/D3.png
-Drew
Replies (9)
newB on 03/2/2008 21:51:20
oh and i forgot to add- by using a lot of glue (maybe even FG resin) and triangle braces on the interior corners, i think i can skip the screws for a really clean look on the outside (hopefully)
-Drew
cplkittle on 03/2/2008 22:34:00
If you use laminated plywood, make sure you have a small tooth saw for cleaner cuts. Also, a table saw would be the way to go with this, as any deviation from an exact straight line will show up big time.
You can build it from MDF, then cover it in oak or birch laminate and you won't be able to tell the difference. The laminate is as thin as 1/16" When using thin laminate, sand it with steel wool instead of sandpaper.
ttocs on 03/2/2008 22:57:26
what happend to that box?
are you going to cover the box or do you want the wood grain to show? If you want to skip the screws then look into a biscuit joiner. It gives a solid screwless joint that will not fail. I have seen brads and glue used in many boxes and it gives a solid joint.
I too would probably just use 3/4"mdf and then cover it to get the desired skin.
SQLThump on 03/2/2008 23:10:15
Love the application of sound destroyer mat on the back of the box.....
newB on 03/3/2008 01:42:17
i actually dropped the sticker with a big arrow pointing to a small square a stuck just below it for laughs for the school competition over a year ago.
if i do make this box it will be with a circular saw and a Table saw, that or a Panel saw+Table saw Combo. i would go brad+glue but i dont have a brad nailer!
i will look into the laminate more, but after doing my wood shop project in oak really liked that pure wood grain look/feel. if i had a planer and a radial arm saw in my shed i would build it from straight oak with dowels and glue.
i'm thinking way to much, i dont have the funds for any of these builds, just an over active imagination
-Drew
swez on 03/3/2008 05:33:12
If you want a furniture grade enclosure for the HT sub enclsoure, consider 3/4" Baltic "Birch". It's expensive, 11-13 plys and sands and shapes beautifully. Can stain it or leave as a natural finish and just use a water based sealers like Minwax products or similar.
As for joinery, dovetail or wedge corners will be strong and look nice too. The trick here is to hide/eliminate the end grain cuts as much as possible. (45 degree bevel cuts) Here, we can use large "H" clamps or ratcheting straps to hold pieces together for gluing. (Straps are cheap, but you made need a few extra hands to get everything in place before the glue sets)
Swez
PS When posting pics of your car, blank out the License Plate info to prevent others from tracking you/car down. D-oh
newB on 03/3/2008 05:47:31
well dang if i would have noticed i would have done that! >_<
i can understand if i'm running massive equipment and somebody would want to find me for my gear, but man would they be disappointed at this point. ;-)
wedge corners with mucho glue, triangle braces on the interior edges, maybe some correct length screws form the interior braces outward should hold nicely and be clean.
i wasnt sure about what wood to use but i think ive heard Baltic birch be thrown around in box building before, i'll have to look into where to pick it up locally
-Drew
-Drew
SQLThump on 03/3/2008 22:16:05
Caught the joke without the arrow or anything, good laugh!!
Am not too sure about how well oak or other solid woods like that would work for enclosure use. I know that guitar builders use several different woods when building guitars because each one carries a tone differently.
Havent ever heard of this Baltic birch, and if it works that would be tight! The renderings look nice as it sits!.
ttocs on 03/5/2008 02:49:48
Baltic birch is certainly more pricey and I think the only real benifit is that it is great for making clean cuts and can be stained. I don't think there is any acustical benifit.
You can always counter sink the screws and then fill the holes will a filler.
only pic
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e216/saxwonder05/trunk.jpg
and because i tend to post all my ideas online for review, i drew this up for a potential home theater box. i noticed my standard Kenwood home theater powered woofer was a 8" in ~1cuft tuned really high. i replaced it with the 1.5cuft slot fent box for my 10 and really enjoyed the extra output so i designed this in 1.5@40hz.
because it will be next to my entertainment center i want it to look good, so i will be using a nicer wood, thinking .75" ply of some kind i still need to look into it a bit more. to avoid the look of overlapping pieces with the nice wood, i would be doing 45degree cuts on all edges making something like this-
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e216/saxwonder05/D1.png
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e216/saxwonder05/D3.png
-Drew
Replies (9)
newB on 03/2/2008 21:51:20
oh and i forgot to add- by using a lot of glue (maybe even FG resin) and triangle braces on the interior corners, i think i can skip the screws for a really clean look on the outside (hopefully)
-Drew
cplkittle on 03/2/2008 22:34:00
If you use laminated plywood, make sure you have a small tooth saw for cleaner cuts. Also, a table saw would be the way to go with this, as any deviation from an exact straight line will show up big time.
You can build it from MDF, then cover it in oak or birch laminate and you won't be able to tell the difference. The laminate is as thin as 1/16" When using thin laminate, sand it with steel wool instead of sandpaper.
ttocs on 03/2/2008 22:57:26
what happend to that box?
are you going to cover the box or do you want the wood grain to show? If you want to skip the screws then look into a biscuit joiner. It gives a solid screwless joint that will not fail. I have seen brads and glue used in many boxes and it gives a solid joint.
I too would probably just use 3/4"mdf and then cover it to get the desired skin.
SQLThump on 03/2/2008 23:10:15
Love the application of sound destroyer mat on the back of the box.....
newB on 03/3/2008 01:42:17
i actually dropped the sticker with a big arrow pointing to a small square a stuck just below it for laughs for the school competition over a year ago.
if i do make this box it will be with a circular saw and a Table saw, that or a Panel saw+Table saw Combo. i would go brad+glue but i dont have a brad nailer!
i will look into the laminate more, but after doing my wood shop project in oak really liked that pure wood grain look/feel. if i had a planer and a radial arm saw in my shed i would build it from straight oak with dowels and glue.
i'm thinking way to much, i dont have the funds for any of these builds, just an over active imagination
-Drew
swez on 03/3/2008 05:33:12
If you want a furniture grade enclosure for the HT sub enclsoure, consider 3/4" Baltic "Birch". It's expensive, 11-13 plys and sands and shapes beautifully. Can stain it or leave as a natural finish and just use a water based sealers like Minwax products or similar.
As for joinery, dovetail or wedge corners will be strong and look nice too. The trick here is to hide/eliminate the end grain cuts as much as possible. (45 degree bevel cuts) Here, we can use large "H" clamps or ratcheting straps to hold pieces together for gluing. (Straps are cheap, but you made need a few extra hands to get everything in place before the glue sets)
Swez
PS When posting pics of your car, blank out the License Plate info to prevent others from tracking you/car down. D-oh
newB on 03/3/2008 05:47:31
well dang if i would have noticed i would have done that! >_<
i can understand if i'm running massive equipment and somebody would want to find me for my gear, but man would they be disappointed at this point. ;-)
wedge corners with mucho glue, triangle braces on the interior edges, maybe some correct length screws form the interior braces outward should hold nicely and be clean.
i wasnt sure about what wood to use but i think ive heard Baltic birch be thrown around in box building before, i'll have to look into where to pick it up locally
-Drew
-Drew
SQLThump on 03/3/2008 22:16:05
Caught the joke without the arrow or anything, good laugh!!
Am not too sure about how well oak or other solid woods like that would work for enclosure use. I know that guitar builders use several different woods when building guitars because each one carries a tone differently.
Havent ever heard of this Baltic birch, and if it works that would be tight! The renderings look nice as it sits!.
ttocs on 03/5/2008 02:49:48
Baltic birch is certainly more pricey and I think the only real benifit is that it is great for making clean cuts and can be stained. I don't think there is any acustical benifit.
You can always counter sink the screws and then fill the holes will a filler.
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