Hi everyone... been a long time since I last posted....
Anyway, I'm planning on a sub upgrade for my car. Just want to get feedback on you guys regarding these three models...
Alpine SWR-1042D
Type-R 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
Infinity Kappa 104.7w
10" subwoofer with selectable 2- or 8-ohm impedance
Boston Acoustics G510-4
10" 4-ohm subwoofer
all things equal (amp, enclosure, hu) which would give out a heavier bass. I've tried infinity on my other car and I'm happy with it, but I'm open to suggestions... Thanks y'all
Replies (10)
ttocs on 02/22/2008 11:33:58
what amp and how many do you want? If used right a DVC will allow you to max the output of your amp.
Victor on 02/22/2008 14:04:54
also what are the specs of the enclosure these subs could be in...
rldelrosario on 02/24/2008 03:40:28
i'll be running the sub of a jbl amp
JBL Grand Touring Series GTO75.4 II
4-channel car amplifier
104 watts RMS X 4
channel 1/2 to power the separates up front and ch 3/4 to power the sub. thinking of a ported enclosure for the trunk.
like i mentioned before, i'm wondering which of the three subs would give out the heavier bass.
Thanks.
swez on 02/24/2008 08:23:04
The Kappa 102.7w 10" is probably the best overall choice of the 3 noted. It's very efficient, can do well in compact sealed, (~0.8 cf) or 1.5 cf ported enclosures.
Note that this one is a 1 or 4 ohm DVC sub. The one you mentioned above is a 2 or 8 ohm version. The Kappa 102.7 is the one you'll need for the amp mentioned.
The Boston is good, but it has a foam type surround. These are great for home use but not as durable as rubber type surrounds for in car applictions. The Boston looks nice/robust, (And so is the retail price tag) but the mounting depth required can be problematic in tight clearance box designs. (9-10" mounting depth here as the sub is almost 7 inches deep/tall)
Swez
PS What happened to the Caddy?
rldelrosario on 02/24/2008 19:29:02
hi swez,
i've read good reviews for the kappa sub you mentioned. guess you can never go wrong with an infinity sub. (i've been using one in my other ride). how about the alpine type-r sub. it's popular and ofcourse it's an apline.
by the way, you may be referring to the civic (not the caddy). well, had the alternator fixed by an electrician. He converted it to a regular voltage regulator (i think) coz he said the IC was busted already. I still get intermittent power on the amp every now and then (the sub and amp goes off while the head unit and the speakers hooked directly to it remain on). but when everything is working, it's gives out quite a boooom.
Regards
SQLThump on 02/24/2008 23:21:53
running the sub off the same amp I use for subs eh......
With expeirence with this amp, I personaly would go with a different Alpine product, either the Type-E, or the Type-S
The Type R will ask for another 216 watts over what the bridged channels of our JBL amps can make, which can make for a bad situation for both the amp and sub.
The Type-E is rated at 250RMS, the Type-S at 300, and both are some decently good performers. The E is a little more sensitive, comes in a bridged-amp freindly single 4 ohm coil, but will not worked in a ported enclosure due to a Q rating in the T/S specs. I almost want to buy a pair for my setup.
The Type S handles 50 more watts, which you don't really need, slightly less sensitivity, but is compatible with a ported box. It is available DVC only, and you will want to get the dual two ohm model to be safe with your amp. (2 ohm loads are a slow death sentance on anything not meant for it)
Personally agree with all of Swez's statements on the Boston sub. Everything is great, but foam surrounds are so.....1990's.
Hoever, disagree with the placement with the Infinity sub at the top of the list. First, as Swez noted, you need the 4 or 8 ohm selectable model, and on a personal note, find Infinity's newer products to be more concentrated on technology and updated power handling, as opposed to raw sound and the user freindlyness that had me sold on their older products, and has me very loyal to the lineups a few years back.
Check out the Type-S or the Type-E if you want some decent Alpine gear. The only real difference is price (both can go for cheaper than the other, look around) and enclosure capability when pairing up with the GTO 75.4 II
Also, you said that you ather car's amp switches on and off? This could be caused by an ohm load too low for the amp. This needs to be matched up right, too high and you don't get full power, and too low, you may give your amp an untimely, undeserved accidental death.
rldelrosario on 02/25/2008 02:07:19
Thanks for the input. Will take a look at the other alpine subs.
As for the other car, i'm also using a JBL GTO 75.4 II and it's powering an Infinity Reference 1040w 10" 4-Ohm Subwoofer (ch 3/4 bridged). I got jbl separates up front.
Thanks again.
newB on 02/25/2008 03:31:29
i'm in the thread a bit late, and it seems like the basis has been covered, i would just like to vouch for the infinities and say that the Kappa 12.1s i owned beat hard for years on 150w each. i was very impressed, and would recommend their subs for quality budget efficient woofers
-Drew
SQLThump on 02/25/2008 15:36:04
Thats funny then, because I have the same problem with my amp. I am using it for a pair of Kenwood subs.
A question, does it turn on and off all the time, or kicks most the time and others makes you want to scream?
Maybe a common problem with this lineup of amps?
rldelrosario on 02/25/2008 20:10:42
tell you what man, its like the hickups... it comes every now and then, and there ain't anything you can do about it. but when its running, it really rocks...
Thanks again
Anyway, I'm planning on a sub upgrade for my car. Just want to get feedback on you guys regarding these three models...
Alpine SWR-1042D
Type-R 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
Infinity Kappa 104.7w
10" subwoofer with selectable 2- or 8-ohm impedance
Boston Acoustics G510-4
10" 4-ohm subwoofer
all things equal (amp, enclosure, hu) which would give out a heavier bass. I've tried infinity on my other car and I'm happy with it, but I'm open to suggestions... Thanks y'all
Replies (10)
ttocs on 02/22/2008 11:33:58
what amp and how many do you want? If used right a DVC will allow you to max the output of your amp.
Victor on 02/22/2008 14:04:54
also what are the specs of the enclosure these subs could be in...
rldelrosario on 02/24/2008 03:40:28
i'll be running the sub of a jbl amp
JBL Grand Touring Series GTO75.4 II
4-channel car amplifier
104 watts RMS X 4
channel 1/2 to power the separates up front and ch 3/4 to power the sub. thinking of a ported enclosure for the trunk.
like i mentioned before, i'm wondering which of the three subs would give out the heavier bass.
Thanks.
swez on 02/24/2008 08:23:04
The Kappa 102.7w 10" is probably the best overall choice of the 3 noted. It's very efficient, can do well in compact sealed, (~0.8 cf) or 1.5 cf ported enclosures.
Note that this one is a 1 or 4 ohm DVC sub. The one you mentioned above is a 2 or 8 ohm version. The Kappa 102.7 is the one you'll need for the amp mentioned.
The Boston is good, but it has a foam type surround. These are great for home use but not as durable as rubber type surrounds for in car applictions. The Boston looks nice/robust, (And so is the retail price tag) but the mounting depth required can be problematic in tight clearance box designs. (9-10" mounting depth here as the sub is almost 7 inches deep/tall)
Swez
PS What happened to the Caddy?
rldelrosario on 02/24/2008 19:29:02
hi swez,
i've read good reviews for the kappa sub you mentioned. guess you can never go wrong with an infinity sub. (i've been using one in my other ride). how about the alpine type-r sub. it's popular and ofcourse it's an apline.
by the way, you may be referring to the civic (not the caddy). well, had the alternator fixed by an electrician. He converted it to a regular voltage regulator (i think) coz he said the IC was busted already. I still get intermittent power on the amp every now and then (the sub and amp goes off while the head unit and the speakers hooked directly to it remain on). but when everything is working, it's gives out quite a boooom.
Regards
SQLThump on 02/24/2008 23:21:53
running the sub off the same amp I use for subs eh......
With expeirence with this amp, I personaly would go with a different Alpine product, either the Type-E, or the Type-S
The Type R will ask for another 216 watts over what the bridged channels of our JBL amps can make, which can make for a bad situation for both the amp and sub.
The Type-E is rated at 250RMS, the Type-S at 300, and both are some decently good performers. The E is a little more sensitive, comes in a bridged-amp freindly single 4 ohm coil, but will not worked in a ported enclosure due to a Q rating in the T/S specs. I almost want to buy a pair for my setup.
The Type S handles 50 more watts, which you don't really need, slightly less sensitivity, but is compatible with a ported box. It is available DVC only, and you will want to get the dual two ohm model to be safe with your amp. (2 ohm loads are a slow death sentance on anything not meant for it)
Personally agree with all of Swez's statements on the Boston sub. Everything is great, but foam surrounds are so.....1990's.
Hoever, disagree with the placement with the Infinity sub at the top of the list. First, as Swez noted, you need the 4 or 8 ohm selectable model, and on a personal note, find Infinity's newer products to be more concentrated on technology and updated power handling, as opposed to raw sound and the user freindlyness that had me sold on their older products, and has me very loyal to the lineups a few years back.
Check out the Type-S or the Type-E if you want some decent Alpine gear. The only real difference is price (both can go for cheaper than the other, look around) and enclosure capability when pairing up with the GTO 75.4 II
Also, you said that you ather car's amp switches on and off? This could be caused by an ohm load too low for the amp. This needs to be matched up right, too high and you don't get full power, and too low, you may give your amp an untimely, undeserved accidental death.
rldelrosario on 02/25/2008 02:07:19
Thanks for the input. Will take a look at the other alpine subs.
As for the other car, i'm also using a JBL GTO 75.4 II and it's powering an Infinity Reference 1040w 10" 4-Ohm Subwoofer (ch 3/4 bridged). I got jbl separates up front.
Thanks again.
newB on 02/25/2008 03:31:29
i'm in the thread a bit late, and it seems like the basis has been covered, i would just like to vouch for the infinities and say that the Kappa 12.1s i owned beat hard for years on 150w each. i was very impressed, and would recommend their subs for quality budget efficient woofers
-Drew
SQLThump on 02/25/2008 15:36:04
Thats funny then, because I have the same problem with my amp. I am using it for a pair of Kenwood subs.
A question, does it turn on and off all the time, or kicks most the time and others makes you want to scream?
Maybe a common problem with this lineup of amps?
rldelrosario on 02/25/2008 20:10:42
tell you what man, its like the hickups... it comes every now and then, and there ain't anything you can do about it. but when its running, it really rocks...
Thanks again
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