I have only had one of my amps hooked up(sub amp) until recently and it was drawing enough juice to pull my car down into the 11v range at a moderate volume at idle. So I decided it would be time to upgrade before this alt died on me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170191542405&rd=1
I was able to take my old alt and get $50 for it because the stock alt on the 94-95 mustang is a pupular upgrade(130A) from the 83-93 models 85A model. Been really happy with craigslist this year as I have been able to sell most of the stuff I didn't need in little time. Check it out if you have not. And this matched with the brand spankin new battery(just crapped out monday) I am ready to jam.
I finally found a descent deal on some 4 conductor, 12 awg speaker wire that I had been looking for. I had decided to use the rear audio fill portion of the hex 3 way X-overs and bi-amp the 3 ways to make them sing with 200watts x 4 power from the other amp. I have never wired a set of 3 ways before and was a little suprised by the wiring as it was a little bit to keep up on. As if that was not enough I decided thatI would mount the 3 ways 4 x-overs on my sub box so that when I take the box out for track days it will be even lighter. To allow for the quick disconnection of the speaker wires needed for the 3 ways x-overs that are now attached to the box, I needed to have hrns's to cover the 8 paired inputs(4 subs and the bi-amped 3 ways for 16 wires) as well as 6 outputs(front tweeter, mids and woofes) on both the drivers and passenger side. All said there were 28 wires that I needed to be able to disconnect. I went to a local electronics superstore that carries hrns's and bought 3 12 awg hrns's, 2 - 12 pin hrns's and a 8 pin hrns do to what they had on hand. Since these are signal wires I soldered them so it took a while correctly wire both sides of the hrns's and then solder both sides(56 connections) but I also took the time to tech-flex the wires to keep them from getting pinched raising and lowering the box. That stuff is cool as hell and makes a wire hrns look damn sexy, really glad I took the time to do it.
When it was all wired and I was ready to power it up it took a little while to set everything up and I was dissappointed to notice the drivers side 6.5 was not working. I quickly started to think about all the connections I soldered in those hrns's and almost shat myself thinking of how hard it would be to check them all now. Just out of hope that it could be something simple, and because it is always best to start there I took the woofer out and was SOOO happy to see that the connection on the back had come loose. I was never so happy to hear a speaker fire up in my hand and I was also really happy to hear the difference it made when I loaded it into the baffle/enclosure I made. After a little more tuning I noticed that I had some kind of noise from the 6.5's, sounded like maybe the speaker wire was bumping the woofer but I noticed that there was alot of air escaping from around the woofers, and the noise seemed to go down when I tried to prevent the air from escaping. I had not put the foam rings on because I did not think they would matter, and because I honestly didn't think I had them. I made a foam gasket out of some 2-sided 3m tape but was really happy to see the correct set of rings under my bead with the remaining grills and such, JACKPOT! I have never had noise like that before, but then this is the first door enclosure I have made as well...
So finnally with alittle more tuning I was able to really crank it up. I am amazed that I can have it almost all the way up(30 our of 35) and it still is clean and smooth. The kick panels and clean and they really do image well and seem to disappear. I also have a audio control ESP3 spatial sound enhancer that I am going to connect that is supposed to be a neat piece to make the soundstage really open up. I have owned it for 10 yrs, and never heard it, hope it works.....
In the end I am happy to say that I have almost completed my master piece and it sounds as wonderful as I had always hoped. I have had the woofers for 7 yrs, the speakers for 5 and never heard any of them..... it was worth the wait, the time installing them, and knowing that I did it right and will last for 10+yrs. I will get some pics of the tech flex wiring shortly to show ya guys, really sets it off and makes the wires bulletproof.
Replies (15)
cplkittle on 02/21/2008 09:23:10
So do you have the alternator installed yet?
When I put my 200a alt on my kia, it almost killed it! My Kia is a smaller SUV, but it only has a 4cyl engine. I think the alternator pulls something like 4-6 horses under load (that's half of what the engine produces haha).
I did notice that after about a week with my new alternator and yellowtop that I could crank my car with my headlights on, and the headlights barely flickered when it cranked. I also noticed a huge difference in the sound. Much louder and cleaner at the same volume setting (increase in voltage)
I am happy for you, I know how it feels to finally get everything coming together. Do you have any pics up yet?
newB on 02/21/2008 11:30:20
pix pix pix pix
and maybe a vid for kicks?
-Drew
ttocs on 02/21/2008 14:17:53
I put it on yesterday and between the new alt and the new battery it fires up much quicker then normal. I was happy for only a moment as I pulled the kick panels since the vinyle was starting to peel. I have tried wrapping them a couple of different ways and with a few different glues but they are a little to complex of a shape for it I think. I am currently experimenting with some texture spray and think I will have them finished by tommorow. If you want to see the work to date then go to cardomain.com, ride #2395420.
While I had the box out I also made a pretty neat looking grill for the subs(4 - 8's). I got the idea while checking out some cars at the barret jackson auction to use 2 pieces of 1" weldable steel with a couple of gentle bends in it. I rubbend the steel down with 400, 600 and 800 grit and it shined up nicely although I would really like to get them chromed. Anyone know how much that costs?
I tried to update the page with some more recent pics but the site is having issues at the moment. I'll try again later but you can see the kicks before I pulled the vinyl off of them.
cplkittle on 02/21/2008 14:44:02
I sell grease to a local chrome plating shop, they charge $250/ batch. Their plating tank is 6' x 10' x 6' deep. If you can squeeze it in with another customer using the same material, they will probably only charge you $25-$50 or so. That includes an acid dip and rinse, plating, and a final rinse. The plating dip time and part of the price depends on the thickness you want the chrome. They have a beautiful antique nickel plating too.. looks a little like gun metal. I am sure if you are willing to leave it for a few days until a similar order comes in, they can coat it with that batch.
Google custom chrome coaters in your area.
I would also suggest looking into powder coating, there are some amazing colors and textures out there.. you could get a chrome wrinkle finish. Basic colors, glow in the dark, blacklight reactive, holographic, reflective, conductive, the list goes on and on.
They can powdercoat MDF now as well as plastics.
powder should be about the same price as chrome plating.
ttocs on 02/21/2008 18:42:05
they are strips that are 1" wide, and 4 ft long with three holes in them(2 stripes) so I do not think it would be too hard to squeeze alongside some other job and I am in no big hurry. If I can get it done for less then $40-50 I think it would be a neat touch.
I think I have the texture coating on the kick panels licked now to look close to the factory grain of plastic. I had been trying to get the same effect by using a texture coating spray I found at a local auto paint supply store but all I could get it to do was look uneven and I did not sand on those things for that long to make it uneven. While I was applying it I thought to myself that I needed something to help raise the grain, something with some grit. It was at that point that I was standing next to my home made router table that was covered with saw dust so I grabbed a handfull and just threw it into the texture coating. I let it set and then went over it with a good coat of sprayable high build primer and then when it dried knocked down the high points with some 400 grit paper and I think it looks perty good(for sawdust it looks great!). I have some paint that matches the interior that I put on it and then a good coat of clear and now it looks and sounds good. I'll get pics up when cardomain is working again.... it does not like me today..
SQLThump on 02/21/2008 19:17:13
Right on man! The kicks look great, and the grilles look factory. I would gave a hard time taking them off though with how wicked they look with them off!
ttocs on 02/22/2008 11:39:40
thanyou very much. I finished the texture paint to match the vinyl and I am pretty happy with the match. It is not perfect but the color is close enough that I do not thing it will be noticed much, certainly will not take away from their looks. I put a good thick clear coat on it and now you can drag your finger nail across it and it does not hurt it like it would if it were vinyl. I'll try to get the pics up again, maybe see if you guys can tell the vinyl from the paint.
This is all in time for my mother to arrive in town for 2 weeks on sunday. I have just enough time to clean the house(you know hide the porn, get the pubes off of the toilet, ect) for her come in and see the new stereo in her namesake.....
I'll see if cardomain will let me upload my pics now.
SQLThump on 02/22/2008 16:54:52
Uh, yeah dude, definetily clean the house. I got my sister in the house, so keeping up with that is a daily must
ttocs on 02/22/2008 18:17:10
I have decided to do one more car project tonight, and start cleaning tomorrow.... might be an all nighter but that is what the garage is for. I have too many electrical accesories in my dash now, radar det, sirius add on unit, power meter, led lighting ect so I have decided to pull another piece that I originally had slated to go in my truck to do duty in the stang. A few years ago I bought a pheonix gold PGDD-5 5-way rem/acc turn on/off w/ variable delay that I have been waiting to install. I am going to have to install it under the pass seat so that I can still have access to it to change fuses easily/quickly. It does happen to match the fuse holder perfectly but is kind of big to mount anywhere too cool.
bamasaint on 02/23/2008 06:59:07
How do the door pods sound?
I have experimented with a couple of different baffles on previous trucks that I have owned but have always been unimpressed with my overall sound. Both sets tended to sound "hollow".
I really like the effort and design youve put into the whole car.
Congradulations!
Mike HAPPY
swez on 02/23/2008 08:49:11
Michael,
The off-the-shelf foam baffles, (XTC types) are often too small to produce the best sonic results. They are primarily designed to protect the drivers from moisture and window leaks.
XTC baffles are too small to give extended low MB performance to most front door mounted speakers out of the package. When using them, one often has to modify them with port holes or cutting the lower part of the shells off for better MB performance and still protect the driver's from moisture leaks. Most guys mat to front doors to seal up the air chamber for better MB performance.
This is where sealed, fabricated door pods really shine. Here, the pods are fabricated to give the door speakers an enclosure that is large enough to allow the MB driver to breath and obtain adequate excursion levels. This is a long-term process of experimentation and fabrication techniques can vary considerably. Depending on the door design and speakers used, some imperical data derived from testing and trial/error would help one dial in the parameters that best suit the speakers and vehicle in question. (Transfer functions are also a major consideration here too)
Yes, it's a major re-fit in the long-term. but the sonic results are often suprerior and tailored to vehicle specific form, fit & transfer functions of a given app.
Swez
ttocs on 02/24/2008 18:09:05
man I got a gremlin in the car that I chased around until just this afternoon(sunday). I set out to install that pg power manager and some how in the process found that some of my speaker wires were crossed, I think in one of my hrns's that I soldered but it took forever to figure it out. When I did I had to turn the gain on my highs amp down as it was much louder then....
During this process I got a chance to hear the difference the door pods made. I thought I had a bad 6.5 woofer and took it out to check it. I turned it on again and then mounted it while it was playing to see if it would die again and was really suprised how much louder they got when loaded. I have then crossed over at 400 hz and have 100 rms(headroom!) to each of them and I am happy with the difference the enclosure made. The tupperware/dynamat makes a stiff/heavy enough material that it should not flex with the 6.5, and mounted to the baffle there were no modifications made to the vehicle. Mustangs have a descent depth in the door(5-6"?) to allow for this.
off to the airport to get mom, too bad I will not get to enjoy it and open it up as her hearing aid would end up hitting me in the back of the head........
I'll try and update my cardomain page in the next day or two.
ttocs on 03/11/2008 18:58:04
Some good, some bad, doesn't it figure that when the stereo gets finished, the ball joints go out? Oh, and they were so corroded that its a good idea to replace the control arms. Oh, your springs look worn as well, have you been hearing a squeaking from the front end?
Why yes, at the few rare times I had the music down I did occasionally hear a squeak.....
I was able to do some updating to my cardomain page(since its been in the shop since thurs). I updated my big 3 pics(And did some cleaning on the engine first to please swez) with some blue wire to match the rest of it, as well as some new battery terminals(wally world has some deals!). I also put the most recent pic of the rear deck I am working on, it is almost done and in primer now. I also showed some pics of a coin holder that I made into a usb port for a fellow mustang lover that wanted to plug his jump drive into the deck for mp3's. came out perty nice I think. I also just got some new sound damping material to try out, 2nd skin. Looks good so far as it is thicker then dynamat and at least the price was right(free!).
swez on 03/12/2008 11:13:40
When you can, get your pics loaded up and we'll all get a good look at the "New and Improved Momostang".
New ball joints and the works huh? I take it that this car sat around for an extended period of time with few miles over several years? That would account for the corrosion part of this situation. Cars that sit in the damp grass for extended times will do this too. (Especially in the Midwest) That's why we call it the "Rust Belt".
Swez
PS A clean engine is more efficient at cooling and detecting leaks too. Since I do about 90% of my own car repairs, it's nice to have a clean place to work and able to spot any small leaks before they get out of hand. (Coolant, oil and other fluids) This process only takes 10 minutes and $2 bucks to accomplish.
It will also show any major spark plug wire cracks and grounding out issues too. If the engine misfires or runs rough after a good cleaning, listen and look for small pops/arcs of voltage around the spark plug wires. This is best done in the dark, where we can see the arcing as the plug wires getting pulses from the coil pack. (30-40,000 volts in many cases)
ttocs on 03/12/2008 12:00:17
I had not been cleanind it because I have a ported cobra intake that took some time to paint and make look perty, as well as a polished tb that will replace the top of the motor. I only need the maf and by the time I get all that onit will look really nice. I only have a little more work before the rear deck is finished, and then I only have a couple of small projects to finish inside before I move to the engine.
In good news since I am replacing the springs I am going with a ford performance lowering set to help the stance, can't wait to see it although the speed bumps around here scare me.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170191542405&rd=1
I was able to take my old alt and get $50 for it because the stock alt on the 94-95 mustang is a pupular upgrade(130A) from the 83-93 models 85A model. Been really happy with craigslist this year as I have been able to sell most of the stuff I didn't need in little time. Check it out if you have not. And this matched with the brand spankin new battery(just crapped out monday) I am ready to jam.
I finally found a descent deal on some 4 conductor, 12 awg speaker wire that I had been looking for. I had decided to use the rear audio fill portion of the hex 3 way X-overs and bi-amp the 3 ways to make them sing with 200watts x 4 power from the other amp. I have never wired a set of 3 ways before and was a little suprised by the wiring as it was a little bit to keep up on. As if that was not enough I decided thatI would mount the 3 ways 4 x-overs on my sub box so that when I take the box out for track days it will be even lighter. To allow for the quick disconnection of the speaker wires needed for the 3 ways x-overs that are now attached to the box, I needed to have hrns's to cover the 8 paired inputs(4 subs and the bi-amped 3 ways for 16 wires) as well as 6 outputs(front tweeter, mids and woofes) on both the drivers and passenger side. All said there were 28 wires that I needed to be able to disconnect. I went to a local electronics superstore that carries hrns's and bought 3 12 awg hrns's, 2 - 12 pin hrns's and a 8 pin hrns do to what they had on hand. Since these are signal wires I soldered them so it took a while correctly wire both sides of the hrns's and then solder both sides(56 connections) but I also took the time to tech-flex the wires to keep them from getting pinched raising and lowering the box. That stuff is cool as hell and makes a wire hrns look damn sexy, really glad I took the time to do it.
When it was all wired and I was ready to power it up it took a little while to set everything up and I was dissappointed to notice the drivers side 6.5 was not working. I quickly started to think about all the connections I soldered in those hrns's and almost shat myself thinking of how hard it would be to check them all now. Just out of hope that it could be something simple, and because it is always best to start there I took the woofer out and was SOOO happy to see that the connection on the back had come loose. I was never so happy to hear a speaker fire up in my hand and I was also really happy to hear the difference it made when I loaded it into the baffle/enclosure I made. After a little more tuning I noticed that I had some kind of noise from the 6.5's, sounded like maybe the speaker wire was bumping the woofer but I noticed that there was alot of air escaping from around the woofers, and the noise seemed to go down when I tried to prevent the air from escaping. I had not put the foam rings on because I did not think they would matter, and because I honestly didn't think I had them. I made a foam gasket out of some 2-sided 3m tape but was really happy to see the correct set of rings under my bead with the remaining grills and such, JACKPOT! I have never had noise like that before, but then this is the first door enclosure I have made as well...
So finnally with alittle more tuning I was able to really crank it up. I am amazed that I can have it almost all the way up(30 our of 35) and it still is clean and smooth. The kick panels and clean and they really do image well and seem to disappear. I also have a audio control ESP3 spatial sound enhancer that I am going to connect that is supposed to be a neat piece to make the soundstage really open up. I have owned it for 10 yrs, and never heard it, hope it works.....
In the end I am happy to say that I have almost completed my master piece and it sounds as wonderful as I had always hoped. I have had the woofers for 7 yrs, the speakers for 5 and never heard any of them..... it was worth the wait, the time installing them, and knowing that I did it right and will last for 10+yrs. I will get some pics of the tech flex wiring shortly to show ya guys, really sets it off and makes the wires bulletproof.
Replies (15)
cplkittle on 02/21/2008 09:23:10
So do you have the alternator installed yet?
When I put my 200a alt on my kia, it almost killed it! My Kia is a smaller SUV, but it only has a 4cyl engine. I think the alternator pulls something like 4-6 horses under load (that's half of what the engine produces haha).
I did notice that after about a week with my new alternator and yellowtop that I could crank my car with my headlights on, and the headlights barely flickered when it cranked. I also noticed a huge difference in the sound. Much louder and cleaner at the same volume setting (increase in voltage)
I am happy for you, I know how it feels to finally get everything coming together. Do you have any pics up yet?
newB on 02/21/2008 11:30:20
pix pix pix pix
and maybe a vid for kicks?
-Drew
ttocs on 02/21/2008 14:17:53
I put it on yesterday and between the new alt and the new battery it fires up much quicker then normal. I was happy for only a moment as I pulled the kick panels since the vinyle was starting to peel. I have tried wrapping them a couple of different ways and with a few different glues but they are a little to complex of a shape for it I think. I am currently experimenting with some texture spray and think I will have them finished by tommorow. If you want to see the work to date then go to cardomain.com, ride #2395420.
While I had the box out I also made a pretty neat looking grill for the subs(4 - 8's). I got the idea while checking out some cars at the barret jackson auction to use 2 pieces of 1" weldable steel with a couple of gentle bends in it. I rubbend the steel down with 400, 600 and 800 grit and it shined up nicely although I would really like to get them chromed. Anyone know how much that costs?
I tried to update the page with some more recent pics but the site is having issues at the moment. I'll try again later but you can see the kicks before I pulled the vinyl off of them.
cplkittle on 02/21/2008 14:44:02
I sell grease to a local chrome plating shop, they charge $250/ batch. Their plating tank is 6' x 10' x 6' deep. If you can squeeze it in with another customer using the same material, they will probably only charge you $25-$50 or so. That includes an acid dip and rinse, plating, and a final rinse. The plating dip time and part of the price depends on the thickness you want the chrome. They have a beautiful antique nickel plating too.. looks a little like gun metal. I am sure if you are willing to leave it for a few days until a similar order comes in, they can coat it with that batch.
Google custom chrome coaters in your area.
I would also suggest looking into powder coating, there are some amazing colors and textures out there.. you could get a chrome wrinkle finish. Basic colors, glow in the dark, blacklight reactive, holographic, reflective, conductive, the list goes on and on.
They can powdercoat MDF now as well as plastics.
powder should be about the same price as chrome plating.
ttocs on 02/21/2008 18:42:05
they are strips that are 1" wide, and 4 ft long with three holes in them(2 stripes) so I do not think it would be too hard to squeeze alongside some other job and I am in no big hurry. If I can get it done for less then $40-50 I think it would be a neat touch.
I think I have the texture coating on the kick panels licked now to look close to the factory grain of plastic. I had been trying to get the same effect by using a texture coating spray I found at a local auto paint supply store but all I could get it to do was look uneven and I did not sand on those things for that long to make it uneven. While I was applying it I thought to myself that I needed something to help raise the grain, something with some grit. It was at that point that I was standing next to my home made router table that was covered with saw dust so I grabbed a handfull and just threw it into the texture coating. I let it set and then went over it with a good coat of sprayable high build primer and then when it dried knocked down the high points with some 400 grit paper and I think it looks perty good(for sawdust it looks great!). I have some paint that matches the interior that I put on it and then a good coat of clear and now it looks and sounds good. I'll get pics up when cardomain is working again.... it does not like me today..
SQLThump on 02/21/2008 19:17:13
Right on man! The kicks look great, and the grilles look factory. I would gave a hard time taking them off though with how wicked they look with them off!
ttocs on 02/22/2008 11:39:40
thanyou very much. I finished the texture paint to match the vinyl and I am pretty happy with the match. It is not perfect but the color is close enough that I do not thing it will be noticed much, certainly will not take away from their looks. I put a good thick clear coat on it and now you can drag your finger nail across it and it does not hurt it like it would if it were vinyl. I'll try to get the pics up again, maybe see if you guys can tell the vinyl from the paint.
This is all in time for my mother to arrive in town for 2 weeks on sunday. I have just enough time to clean the house(you know hide the porn, get the pubes off of the toilet, ect) for her come in and see the new stereo in her namesake.....
I'll see if cardomain will let me upload my pics now.
SQLThump on 02/22/2008 16:54:52
Uh, yeah dude, definetily clean the house. I got my sister in the house, so keeping up with that is a daily must
ttocs on 02/22/2008 18:17:10
I have decided to do one more car project tonight, and start cleaning tomorrow.... might be an all nighter but that is what the garage is for. I have too many electrical accesories in my dash now, radar det, sirius add on unit, power meter, led lighting ect so I have decided to pull another piece that I originally had slated to go in my truck to do duty in the stang. A few years ago I bought a pheonix gold PGDD-5 5-way rem/acc turn on/off w/ variable delay that I have been waiting to install. I am going to have to install it under the pass seat so that I can still have access to it to change fuses easily/quickly. It does happen to match the fuse holder perfectly but is kind of big to mount anywhere too cool.
bamasaint on 02/23/2008 06:59:07
How do the door pods sound?
I have experimented with a couple of different baffles on previous trucks that I have owned but have always been unimpressed with my overall sound. Both sets tended to sound "hollow".
I really like the effort and design youve put into the whole car.
Congradulations!
Mike HAPPY
swez on 02/23/2008 08:49:11
Michael,
The off-the-shelf foam baffles, (XTC types) are often too small to produce the best sonic results. They are primarily designed to protect the drivers from moisture and window leaks.
XTC baffles are too small to give extended low MB performance to most front door mounted speakers out of the package. When using them, one often has to modify them with port holes or cutting the lower part of the shells off for better MB performance and still protect the driver's from moisture leaks. Most guys mat to front doors to seal up the air chamber for better MB performance.
This is where sealed, fabricated door pods really shine. Here, the pods are fabricated to give the door speakers an enclosure that is large enough to allow the MB driver to breath and obtain adequate excursion levels. This is a long-term process of experimentation and fabrication techniques can vary considerably. Depending on the door design and speakers used, some imperical data derived from testing and trial/error would help one dial in the parameters that best suit the speakers and vehicle in question. (Transfer functions are also a major consideration here too)
Yes, it's a major re-fit in the long-term. but the sonic results are often suprerior and tailored to vehicle specific form, fit & transfer functions of a given app.
Swez
ttocs on 02/24/2008 18:09:05
man I got a gremlin in the car that I chased around until just this afternoon(sunday). I set out to install that pg power manager and some how in the process found that some of my speaker wires were crossed, I think in one of my hrns's that I soldered but it took forever to figure it out. When I did I had to turn the gain on my highs amp down as it was much louder then....
During this process I got a chance to hear the difference the door pods made. I thought I had a bad 6.5 woofer and took it out to check it. I turned it on again and then mounted it while it was playing to see if it would die again and was really suprised how much louder they got when loaded. I have then crossed over at 400 hz and have 100 rms(headroom!) to each of them and I am happy with the difference the enclosure made. The tupperware/dynamat makes a stiff/heavy enough material that it should not flex with the 6.5, and mounted to the baffle there were no modifications made to the vehicle. Mustangs have a descent depth in the door(5-6"?) to allow for this.
off to the airport to get mom, too bad I will not get to enjoy it and open it up as her hearing aid would end up hitting me in the back of the head........
I'll try and update my cardomain page in the next day or two.
ttocs on 03/11/2008 18:58:04
Some good, some bad, doesn't it figure that when the stereo gets finished, the ball joints go out? Oh, and they were so corroded that its a good idea to replace the control arms. Oh, your springs look worn as well, have you been hearing a squeaking from the front end?
Why yes, at the few rare times I had the music down I did occasionally hear a squeak.....
I was able to do some updating to my cardomain page(since its been in the shop since thurs). I updated my big 3 pics(And did some cleaning on the engine first to please swez) with some blue wire to match the rest of it, as well as some new battery terminals(wally world has some deals!). I also put the most recent pic of the rear deck I am working on, it is almost done and in primer now. I also showed some pics of a coin holder that I made into a usb port for a fellow mustang lover that wanted to plug his jump drive into the deck for mp3's. came out perty nice I think. I also just got some new sound damping material to try out, 2nd skin. Looks good so far as it is thicker then dynamat and at least the price was right(free!).
swez on 03/12/2008 11:13:40
When you can, get your pics loaded up and we'll all get a good look at the "New and Improved Momostang".
New ball joints and the works huh? I take it that this car sat around for an extended period of time with few miles over several years? That would account for the corrosion part of this situation. Cars that sit in the damp grass for extended times will do this too. (Especially in the Midwest) That's why we call it the "Rust Belt".
Swez
PS A clean engine is more efficient at cooling and detecting leaks too. Since I do about 90% of my own car repairs, it's nice to have a clean place to work and able to spot any small leaks before they get out of hand. (Coolant, oil and other fluids) This process only takes 10 minutes and $2 bucks to accomplish.
It will also show any major spark plug wire cracks and grounding out issues too. If the engine misfires or runs rough after a good cleaning, listen and look for small pops/arcs of voltage around the spark plug wires. This is best done in the dark, where we can see the arcing as the plug wires getting pulses from the coil pack. (30-40,000 volts in many cases)
ttocs on 03/12/2008 12:00:17
I had not been cleanind it because I have a ported cobra intake that took some time to paint and make look perty, as well as a polished tb that will replace the top of the motor. I only need the maf and by the time I get all that onit will look really nice. I only have a little more work before the rear deck is finished, and then I only have a couple of small projects to finish inside before I move to the engine.
In good news since I am replacing the springs I am going with a ford performance lowering set to help the stance, can't wait to see it although the speed bumps around here scare me.
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
