The primary purpose for remote starters is convenience. You could warm up your car that is out in frigid and chilly weather while you’re warm staying inside. You could also do the same in blistering hot weather; remotely turn-on your engine with the A/C switch on so that it’s nice and cool by the time you get in. Another purpose for remote ignition is security reasons. Whether you’re a male or a female, it’s always nice to have your car ready to go whenever you are, especially when you are in shady parts of town. And of course, the last purpose to having remote starters is the show-off factor because it completes the true wow-element of your vehicle. After all, who doesn’t want to show off like James Bond?
There are a few things to be mindful of. Virtually every remote car start system includes vehicle security and of course with that, they include some kind of remote. The pricing on these remote start security systems depend mostly on the abilities of the remote. I know it sounds crazy, but it’s the truth. In essence, the price is based upon how smart your system is.
The more buttons the remote has, the more money it’ll cost, because the more buttons usually mean more programmable functions such as delayed starts, valet mode, and multi-tone activation. Another consideration is the ability for the system to communicate 2-way rather than just the typical 1-way. 2-Way remotes allow the system to not only be controlled remotely by the user but also communicate to the user any disturbance to the car. This is crucial if you’re dining out or shopping at the mall and your car is out of your sight. 2-Way remotes typically features a small LCD display to tell you exactly what’s going on and they usually have symbols to represent different things on your car that is disturbed (if your car is equipped with the sensors). Some systems indicate glass-breakage indicators or vicinity alarms to specify exact disturbances.
Another crucial aspect to consider is of course the range of your remotes. Please remember that just because a product say that they feature a max range of 6000ft. means it’s always going to be consistently 6000ft. Conditions would have to be perfect to reach that kind of consistency and range. The longest range I’ve heard anyone had for these systems is around 1500ft. that’s about ¼ of a mile. This is great range for you since you could walk around for ¼ mile and not have to worry about your precious car.
Lastly, remember that once you wire your vehicle up for remote ignition, it is possible for thieves to steal your remote’s code and frequency allowing them to impersonate you through their remote and driving off with your car. Though the possibility of this is unlikely, it is still possible. Some systems feature code-hopping countermeasures, allowing your system to change codes frequently to prevent thieves from finding the same one—giving an astronomically impossible combination of codes to be deciphered. Again with this added feature, expect the price to be higher.
In summary, I would suggest that you find a ( http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i98_remote-start-car-alarms.html) remote car starter system that is adequate for your needs. If you do want features, keep in mind that for each additional feature, there will be additional costs. I hope I have helped you in your decision making process. Good luck!
http://sonicelectronix.com/cat_i98_remote-start-car-alarms.html
Replies (4)
ttocs on 02/1/2008 21:00:23
You will need to know that every alarm is not made the same, There are a few good reputable brands and hundreds of really bad ones. A bad alarm can do soo much more damage then it can help since it is tied into the most critical circuits and if it has a problem you will have a problem that could leave you stranded somewhere facing a huge towing bill. Also, all of the alarms that were pictured DO NOT INCLUDE INSTALLATION. Security and convience installations like these are not for the faint of heart. I did my first alarm after installing proffesionally for almost a year and did it with an expert standing behind me to stop me from doing anything wrong. Again during installation you will be splicing into, and cutting your ignition wiring so if there is a bad connection that becomes loose or shorted out you will be glad you have AAA. Most shops do not like to install other peoples alarm stuff because of the possibility of future problems so be prepaired to pay some good $$$ for install if the shop does not carry that brand.
You will also possibly need an add on piece to fool your factory alarm into thinking the key is in the ignition. Sometimes this requires loosing a key to a hide away module up in the dash that can cost up to $100, plus install.
The MOST important part of an alarm is the installation. A bad alarm with a bad install is doomed to fail just as a good alarm with a bad install is doomed to fail. When trying to find a shop to install your alarm it is important to find out how they install them. Some shops throw them in and do not take the time to hide the module and wiring. Ask how they make their connections, T-taps are a no-no, crimp connectors are acceptable and soldering is preffered.
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 07:29:00
The one thing they do not tell you is that depending on your vehicle, you may need a half dozen or more 12 volt relays, diodes, and if your vehicle is a dodge/chrysler/jeep you will need either a bypass combo kit or a handful of dial in resistors. You may need extra pin switches for the hood pin trigger, trunk pin, or faulty door pin switches. And of course the proper tools are a MUST.
This IS NOT a " Do It Yourself " project! Most cars take seasoned installers around an hour for installation and testing. Some cars can take up to 3 hours to complete.
I have to disagree with the t-taps are a no-no. I have always used t-taps and there was one instance where the t-tap did not bite into the wire properly. 1 out of hundreds. I do agree that soldering is better, but I have seen some pretty mad customers that had their alarms/starters installed at the local circuit city and there were burns in their carpet from solder drips or dropped soldering irons.
Of course they didn't see these until they removed their floor mat and they weren't informed about it either. That is the reason they came to us for their other electronic needs.
ttocs on 02/2/2008 12:55:46
Granted, most T-taps will work immediatly if they are used properly(IE the correct size) but the longterm dependability of T-taps is certianly the shortest of the given methods for making connections. While it speeds up the installation time(no alarm should be rushed!) I don't know why you would want to send somebody out the door with the worst connection you have just because it is easier for you right then. If you have not had experience tracking down bad connections to t-taps that were used properly but had just worn out then hang tight and you will, especially if you work at a shop that uses them. I have never worked at a shop that used them, just fixed the other guys stuff that did. Granted you do run the risk of burning something with the iron(yourself or your car) but literally if you can't handle the heat....
swez on 02/2/2008 15:57:46
This guy, (YH...) wrote a darn good tuitorial about car starter/alarm kits. Nice work bud. Welcome to CK!
T-taps and Scotch-lok connectors do work well when the proper size is used and quality crimps are attained. We often use quality T-taps in low voltage applications for analog signal splicing. (Indoor Telephone Line/low power signal splices) These are good in fixed applications where vibration, temperature and humidy are well controlled. In car audio applications, crimp type barrel or cone crimps work better.
As noted, soldering wires and using srink wrap over the solder joints, are the most reliable choice. This is more time consuming and that is why most high volume shops don't use this method. This is also why most problems come back for repair too. (Bad wire splices)
In a nutshell, we get what we pay for. Even a quality unit can malfuntion if the install tech takes shortcuts or employs shoddy workmanship for speed and ease of install. More often than not, a bad install may not show up immediately either. It make take a few weeks or longer before the problem shows up and things start to malfunction.
Swez
PS I was a Salesman at a local chain for a time and watched a steady parade of remote starters/alarm jobs come back for repairs or replacement in less than 1 month. The lead Tech had his hands full fixing the issues or installing a new unit. In this case, the units malfunctioned due to Quailty Control issues from the supplier. (Code Alarm?)
I watched him as he worked and asked some questions as he did his troubleshooting process. He was very good at doing the work and explaining the methodology as he went through each circuit test. He was a skilled tech and had great patience with my questions too. That is rare in a high volume shop. We also had good rapport with each other. (We respected each others' professionalism)
Most installers can't stand people looking over their shoulder and asking distracting questions. It takes a lot of concentration to do this level of work and some guys just don't tolerate distractions. It's rare to find a guy that can do quality work, fix complex problems and articulate his methods along the way. This guy was very competent and willing to explain his actions with great patience and self-control when things were not going well. (Very level-headed under stress)
Many are not and willing to chase you out his work space with a long screwdriver or utility knife in hand. That just means he's very frustrated, unable to concentrate and does not like visitors as they work. (Tread lightly around the "hot-heads" and all is well) SMILE
There are a few things to be mindful of. Virtually every remote car start system includes vehicle security and of course with that, they include some kind of remote. The pricing on these remote start security systems depend mostly on the abilities of the remote. I know it sounds crazy, but it’s the truth. In essence, the price is based upon how smart your system is.
The more buttons the remote has, the more money it’ll cost, because the more buttons usually mean more programmable functions such as delayed starts, valet mode, and multi-tone activation. Another consideration is the ability for the system to communicate 2-way rather than just the typical 1-way. 2-Way remotes allow the system to not only be controlled remotely by the user but also communicate to the user any disturbance to the car. This is crucial if you’re dining out or shopping at the mall and your car is out of your sight. 2-Way remotes typically features a small LCD display to tell you exactly what’s going on and they usually have symbols to represent different things on your car that is disturbed (if your car is equipped with the sensors). Some systems indicate glass-breakage indicators or vicinity alarms to specify exact disturbances.
Another crucial aspect to consider is of course the range of your remotes. Please remember that just because a product say that they feature a max range of 6000ft. means it’s always going to be consistently 6000ft. Conditions would have to be perfect to reach that kind of consistency and range. The longest range I’ve heard anyone had for these systems is around 1500ft. that’s about ¼ of a mile. This is great range for you since you could walk around for ¼ mile and not have to worry about your precious car.
Lastly, remember that once you wire your vehicle up for remote ignition, it is possible for thieves to steal your remote’s code and frequency allowing them to impersonate you through their remote and driving off with your car. Though the possibility of this is unlikely, it is still possible. Some systems feature code-hopping countermeasures, allowing your system to change codes frequently to prevent thieves from finding the same one—giving an astronomically impossible combination of codes to be deciphered. Again with this added feature, expect the price to be higher.
In summary, I would suggest that you find a ( http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i98_remote-start-car-alarms.html) remote car starter system that is adequate for your needs. If you do want features, keep in mind that for each additional feature, there will be additional costs. I hope I have helped you in your decision making process. Good luck!
http://sonicelectronix.com/cat_i98_remote-start-car-alarms.html
Replies (4)
ttocs on 02/1/2008 21:00:23
You will need to know that every alarm is not made the same, There are a few good reputable brands and hundreds of really bad ones. A bad alarm can do soo much more damage then it can help since it is tied into the most critical circuits and if it has a problem you will have a problem that could leave you stranded somewhere facing a huge towing bill. Also, all of the alarms that were pictured DO NOT INCLUDE INSTALLATION. Security and convience installations like these are not for the faint of heart. I did my first alarm after installing proffesionally for almost a year and did it with an expert standing behind me to stop me from doing anything wrong. Again during installation you will be splicing into, and cutting your ignition wiring so if there is a bad connection that becomes loose or shorted out you will be glad you have AAA. Most shops do not like to install other peoples alarm stuff because of the possibility of future problems so be prepaired to pay some good $$$ for install if the shop does not carry that brand.
You will also possibly need an add on piece to fool your factory alarm into thinking the key is in the ignition. Sometimes this requires loosing a key to a hide away module up in the dash that can cost up to $100, plus install.
The MOST important part of an alarm is the installation. A bad alarm with a bad install is doomed to fail just as a good alarm with a bad install is doomed to fail. When trying to find a shop to install your alarm it is important to find out how they install them. Some shops throw them in and do not take the time to hide the module and wiring. Ask how they make their connections, T-taps are a no-no, crimp connectors are acceptable and soldering is preffered.
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 07:29:00
The one thing they do not tell you is that depending on your vehicle, you may need a half dozen or more 12 volt relays, diodes, and if your vehicle is a dodge/chrysler/jeep you will need either a bypass combo kit or a handful of dial in resistors. You may need extra pin switches for the hood pin trigger, trunk pin, or faulty door pin switches. And of course the proper tools are a MUST.
This IS NOT a " Do It Yourself " project! Most cars take seasoned installers around an hour for installation and testing. Some cars can take up to 3 hours to complete.
I have to disagree with the t-taps are a no-no. I have always used t-taps and there was one instance where the t-tap did not bite into the wire properly. 1 out of hundreds. I do agree that soldering is better, but I have seen some pretty mad customers that had their alarms/starters installed at the local circuit city and there were burns in their carpet from solder drips or dropped soldering irons.
Of course they didn't see these until they removed their floor mat and they weren't informed about it either. That is the reason they came to us for their other electronic needs.
ttocs on 02/2/2008 12:55:46
Granted, most T-taps will work immediatly if they are used properly(IE the correct size) but the longterm dependability of T-taps is certianly the shortest of the given methods for making connections. While it speeds up the installation time(no alarm should be rushed!) I don't know why you would want to send somebody out the door with the worst connection you have just because it is easier for you right then. If you have not had experience tracking down bad connections to t-taps that were used properly but had just worn out then hang tight and you will, especially if you work at a shop that uses them. I have never worked at a shop that used them, just fixed the other guys stuff that did. Granted you do run the risk of burning something with the iron(yourself or your car) but literally if you can't handle the heat....
swez on 02/2/2008 15:57:46
This guy, (YH...) wrote a darn good tuitorial about car starter/alarm kits. Nice work bud. Welcome to CK!
T-taps and Scotch-lok connectors do work well when the proper size is used and quality crimps are attained. We often use quality T-taps in low voltage applications for analog signal splicing. (Indoor Telephone Line/low power signal splices) These are good in fixed applications where vibration, temperature and humidy are well controlled. In car audio applications, crimp type barrel or cone crimps work better.
As noted, soldering wires and using srink wrap over the solder joints, are the most reliable choice. This is more time consuming and that is why most high volume shops don't use this method. This is also why most problems come back for repair too. (Bad wire splices)
In a nutshell, we get what we pay for. Even a quality unit can malfuntion if the install tech takes shortcuts or employs shoddy workmanship for speed and ease of install. More often than not, a bad install may not show up immediately either. It make take a few weeks or longer before the problem shows up and things start to malfunction.
Swez
PS I was a Salesman at a local chain for a time and watched a steady parade of remote starters/alarm jobs come back for repairs or replacement in less than 1 month. The lead Tech had his hands full fixing the issues or installing a new unit. In this case, the units malfunctioned due to Quailty Control issues from the supplier. (Code Alarm?)
I watched him as he worked and asked some questions as he did his troubleshooting process. He was very good at doing the work and explaining the methodology as he went through each circuit test. He was a skilled tech and had great patience with my questions too. That is rare in a high volume shop. We also had good rapport with each other. (We respected each others' professionalism)
Most installers can't stand people looking over their shoulder and asking distracting questions. It takes a lot of concentration to do this level of work and some guys just don't tolerate distractions. It's rare to find a guy that can do quality work, fix complex problems and articulate his methods along the way. This guy was very competent and willing to explain his actions with great patience and self-control when things were not going well. (Very level-headed under stress)
Many are not and willing to chase you out his work space with a long screwdriver or utility knife in hand. That just means he's very frustrated, unable to concentrate and does not like visitors as they work. (Tread lightly around the "hot-heads" and all is well) SMILE
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