i have a 98 chevy S10 ext cab with 3 mtx 10"s and 2 MA audio street machines 12"s in seperate boxs with a 1000w mtx amp in the back of the cab. I am wanting to build a fiberglass box and just wanting all the help i can get
Replies (2)
cplkittle on 02/1/2008 00:51:44
Read this:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t23
Fiberglass is one of those things that takes time to get good at. Your first time will be alot of fun, but it will take alot of time and it will be frustrating. Fiberglass is strong in curves and bends, but not in a long flat surface. It is recommended that you build as much of the box out of MDF as you can. For the fiberglass portions, you need to make a skeleton and stretch felt over the skeleton form. Staple it into place and apply a coat of resin. Once the resin has dried, apply another coat of resin followed by fiberglass mat and another coat of resin. Use a short bristled brush to stab at the mat to get all of the air pockets out from under the mat. You will be able to see the air pockets. The more MEKP or hardner you use, the faster it cures. If the resin becomes lumpy or takes on the consistency of fruit jelly, it is past the point of being usable. Repeat the resin/mat/resin until you have 3 layers on any area exposed to pressure from the subs; one layer is fine for areas with no pressure. Try to keep it as smooth and uniform as possible. If you have any lumps, air pockets, or fiberglass hairs sticking up sand them down before the next coat. After the final coat has been applied, sand it down using progressively smaller grit. If you start with a rather lumpy or uneven surface, you can start with a grit as low as 24. Work up to 800 or 1000 until you have a very slick, glassy when wet finish. A skim coat of filler or bondo can be applied at this point if you have any small air pockets or dimples. Once the skim coat is sanded with 800+ grit, and you are happy with the finish, it is ready for primer and paint.
Good luck and I hope you have alot of patience.
ttocs on 02/1/2008 10:49:42
am I reading that right that you have 5 subs, 3 - 10's and 2 - 12's?
Can I get a pic of that?
Replies (2)
cplkittle on 02/1/2008 00:51:44
Read this:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t23
Fiberglass is one of those things that takes time to get good at. Your first time will be alot of fun, but it will take alot of time and it will be frustrating. Fiberglass is strong in curves and bends, but not in a long flat surface. It is recommended that you build as much of the box out of MDF as you can. For the fiberglass portions, you need to make a skeleton and stretch felt over the skeleton form. Staple it into place and apply a coat of resin. Once the resin has dried, apply another coat of resin followed by fiberglass mat and another coat of resin. Use a short bristled brush to stab at the mat to get all of the air pockets out from under the mat. You will be able to see the air pockets. The more MEKP or hardner you use, the faster it cures. If the resin becomes lumpy or takes on the consistency of fruit jelly, it is past the point of being usable. Repeat the resin/mat/resin until you have 3 layers on any area exposed to pressure from the subs; one layer is fine for areas with no pressure. Try to keep it as smooth and uniform as possible. If you have any lumps, air pockets, or fiberglass hairs sticking up sand them down before the next coat. After the final coat has been applied, sand it down using progressively smaller grit. If you start with a rather lumpy or uneven surface, you can start with a grit as low as 24. Work up to 800 or 1000 until you have a very slick, glassy when wet finish. A skim coat of filler or bondo can be applied at this point if you have any small air pockets or dimples. Once the skim coat is sanded with 800+ grit, and you are happy with the finish, it is ready for primer and paint.
Good luck and I hope you have alot of patience.
ttocs on 02/1/2008 10:49:42
am I reading that right that you have 5 subs, 3 - 10's and 2 - 12's?
Can I get a pic of that?
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