I just purchased a 2006 silverado and would like to install my pioneer DEH-P789MP head unit. I have never installed a radio before so wanted to ask the experts a few questions first.
1st how do I go about getting the factory radio out. Is it pretty straight forward on chevy's or is there any tricks I should know about first.
2nd will I be able to just wire it up or will I have to buy after market wiring harness for the radio? I also Have steering controls for the radio on this truck, will I need a specail harness for that too?
I have some boston acoustic speakers that came out of my toyota 4 runner with some 10" L7 solorbarics I know the solorbarics won't fit, and according to crutchfield neither will the boston acoustics, wrong size. I was wondering if there was anyway I could modify them or buy a kit that would make them. I thought that might be possible since they are to small not to big?? I would really appreciate any help I could get here. Thanks alot.GRIN
Replies (8)
cgcomeaux on 01/27/2008 15:05:48
Chevrolet silverado 2006
cplkittle on 01/27/2008 15:33:25
First of all, it is a chevy (GM).
You will need a chime module or integration piece. If you have BOSE or Onstar, or both, you need a different type of adapter.
Let's start there. Tell us if you have Bose or Onstar, and whether or not you want to keep Onstar.
All of these features (onstar, door chime, warning chimes) all play through the factory radio.. that is why you need these extra modules.
cgcomeaux on 01/27/2008 15:53:46
OK, I do not have the bose system or the onstar service, only have steering wheel controls, for the radio and DIC(driver information center) the factory radio in there now is a AM/FM factory cd player/ cassette player . The factory speakers look like the front door has a mid range and a tweeter in seperate cut out holes. and then the rear doors have a small speaker also. I have not removed the door panels yet, but thats what it looks like as best as I can tell.
The after market speakers I have are Boston acoustics SL60's which the box says require a 5 1/4" cut out. and then I have some alpine SPS 100 A which look like they require a 4" cut out????
The Boston acoustics have seperate tweeters with them, but I'm not sure if I could mount them??? Any other information you need please ask I really appreciate your help. Thanks alot!!!
cplkittle on 01/27/2008 18:36:58
as far as radio installation, all you will need then is a chime module. This one includes the wiring harness and the RAP (retained accessory power) function. RAP is where the radio stays on after the key is removed until the driver's door is opened.
http://cgi.ebay.com/2000-2006-GM-CLASS-II-WIRE-WIRING-HARNESS-WITH-CHIME_W0QQitemZ320212360411QQihZ011QQcategoryZ32812QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I would use the speakers with the lower power rating (they are more efficient, and won't strain the radio's amplifier) UNLESS you plan to add a 4 channel amplifier for the interior speakers.
I'm not sure about the speaker size for this vehicle, but I would guess they are either 5 1/4 or 6 1/2" It is better to replace them with the same size, but if you want to go with what you already have a little ingenuity comes into play with mounting them. Some people take a thin piece of wood and trace the factory speaker. Mount the wood where the factory speaker went, and cut a hole in the wood for the aftermarket speaker.
As for component sets like the bostons you mentioned ( the sl60's are 6.5" woofer and seperate tweeter ). The tweeter can be mounted either in the door or on the dash. If you don't want to cut a hole for the tweeter, there are pod mount options.
cgcomeaux on 01/27/2008 19:21:49
Wow, thanks for all the information, this is really helpful.
I'm gonna get that harness you suggested, I am also going to use the boston acoustic speakers in the front with the tweeters. And just not use the door speakers in the back, I would like to put some subs in the back or something to give me more bass, any suggestions????? I use to have a 4 channel amp, but no longer have it, I will have to buy me another one.
I do have 2 10" L7 solar baric subs with a 750 watt kicker amp mounted in boxes. I know these won't fit in my truck, I think what I will do is sell the kicker amp and subs, and buy a 4 channel amp and run my boston acoustics and whatever I put in the back all off of that one amp. Would that work. You sound pretty knowledgable so i'm gonna put you on the spot;) If you had my situation what would you do????
Grdevs24zero on 01/27/2008 20:54:57
What type of cab is it, extended, crew cab, etc? Alot of guys put subs in boxes under the rear seats. You could make your own, but that's not exactly a box a person should start with as far as difficulty goes.
There are a few companies that make these, after they're properly installed you can't tell the truck is any different than stock. I am not sure if there are any made to work with the square L7's, but being such a popular sub I'd be surprised if they don't. Q-logic, is one box maker I know of, Kicker may make their own as well. Another option here is to sell the Kicker subs (and box) and buy a pre-loaded (box and sub) that will fit under the rear seats in your truck.
In the end I guess it comes down to the size of your wallet, although personally I would not bother with aftermarket speakers unless there is a good quality amp powering them. There are lots of benefits of better speakers, and half of them are not realized with power from the radio alone.
cgcomeaux on 01/29/2008 07:24:08
It is an extended cab. I was thinking about getting a bazooka sub, I have seen them before and looks like it would fit pretty easily. I have heard that they are not that good though, unreliable???
cplkittle on 01/29/2008 17:33:56
It all depends on how you use it.
A bazooka sub can add nice clean bass at a balanced level with the mids and highs, or you can push it a little harder for more thump. The harder you push it, the shorter the life span of the sub.
Bazooka preloaded boxes with the built in amplifier are not at all bad quality, they are just not as strong as a seperate amp and sub combo like you normally see in vehicles.
The problem is that there are alot of kids out there that want $2,000 worth of bass for less than $150. THey will buy the more modestly priced equiptment and give it hell, then badmouth it when it does not hold up like the high end equiptment does.
1st how do I go about getting the factory radio out. Is it pretty straight forward on chevy's or is there any tricks I should know about first.
2nd will I be able to just wire it up or will I have to buy after market wiring harness for the radio? I also Have steering controls for the radio on this truck, will I need a specail harness for that too?
I have some boston acoustic speakers that came out of my toyota 4 runner with some 10" L7 solorbarics I know the solorbarics won't fit, and according to crutchfield neither will the boston acoustics, wrong size. I was wondering if there was anyway I could modify them or buy a kit that would make them. I thought that might be possible since they are to small not to big?? I would really appreciate any help I could get here. Thanks alot.GRIN
Replies (8)
cgcomeaux on 01/27/2008 15:05:48
Chevrolet silverado 2006
cplkittle on 01/27/2008 15:33:25
First of all, it is a chevy (GM).
You will need a chime module or integration piece. If you have BOSE or Onstar, or both, you need a different type of adapter.
Let's start there. Tell us if you have Bose or Onstar, and whether or not you want to keep Onstar.
All of these features (onstar, door chime, warning chimes) all play through the factory radio.. that is why you need these extra modules.
cgcomeaux on 01/27/2008 15:53:46
OK, I do not have the bose system or the onstar service, only have steering wheel controls, for the radio and DIC(driver information center) the factory radio in there now is a AM/FM factory cd player/ cassette player . The factory speakers look like the front door has a mid range and a tweeter in seperate cut out holes. and then the rear doors have a small speaker also. I have not removed the door panels yet, but thats what it looks like as best as I can tell.
The after market speakers I have are Boston acoustics SL60's which the box says require a 5 1/4" cut out. and then I have some alpine SPS 100 A which look like they require a 4" cut out????
The Boston acoustics have seperate tweeters with them, but I'm not sure if I could mount them??? Any other information you need please ask I really appreciate your help. Thanks alot!!!
cplkittle on 01/27/2008 18:36:58
as far as radio installation, all you will need then is a chime module. This one includes the wiring harness and the RAP (retained accessory power) function. RAP is where the radio stays on after the key is removed until the driver's door is opened.
http://cgi.ebay.com/2000-2006-GM-CLASS-II-WIRE-WIRING-HARNESS-WITH-CHIME_W0QQitemZ320212360411QQihZ011QQcategoryZ32812QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I would use the speakers with the lower power rating (they are more efficient, and won't strain the radio's amplifier) UNLESS you plan to add a 4 channel amplifier for the interior speakers.
I'm not sure about the speaker size for this vehicle, but I would guess they are either 5 1/4 or 6 1/2" It is better to replace them with the same size, but if you want to go with what you already have a little ingenuity comes into play with mounting them. Some people take a thin piece of wood and trace the factory speaker. Mount the wood where the factory speaker went, and cut a hole in the wood for the aftermarket speaker.
As for component sets like the bostons you mentioned ( the sl60's are 6.5" woofer and seperate tweeter ). The tweeter can be mounted either in the door or on the dash. If you don't want to cut a hole for the tweeter, there are pod mount options.
cgcomeaux on 01/27/2008 19:21:49
Wow, thanks for all the information, this is really helpful.
I'm gonna get that harness you suggested, I am also going to use the boston acoustic speakers in the front with the tweeters. And just not use the door speakers in the back, I would like to put some subs in the back or something to give me more bass, any suggestions????? I use to have a 4 channel amp, but no longer have it, I will have to buy me another one.
I do have 2 10" L7 solar baric subs with a 750 watt kicker amp mounted in boxes. I know these won't fit in my truck, I think what I will do is sell the kicker amp and subs, and buy a 4 channel amp and run my boston acoustics and whatever I put in the back all off of that one amp. Would that work. You sound pretty knowledgable so i'm gonna put you on the spot;) If you had my situation what would you do????
Grdevs24zero on 01/27/2008 20:54:57
What type of cab is it, extended, crew cab, etc? Alot of guys put subs in boxes under the rear seats. You could make your own, but that's not exactly a box a person should start with as far as difficulty goes.
There are a few companies that make these, after they're properly installed you can't tell the truck is any different than stock. I am not sure if there are any made to work with the square L7's, but being such a popular sub I'd be surprised if they don't. Q-logic, is one box maker I know of, Kicker may make their own as well. Another option here is to sell the Kicker subs (and box) and buy a pre-loaded (box and sub) that will fit under the rear seats in your truck.
In the end I guess it comes down to the size of your wallet, although personally I would not bother with aftermarket speakers unless there is a good quality amp powering them. There are lots of benefits of better speakers, and half of them are not realized with power from the radio alone.
cgcomeaux on 01/29/2008 07:24:08
It is an extended cab. I was thinking about getting a bazooka sub, I have seen them before and looks like it would fit pretty easily. I have heard that they are not that good though, unreliable???
cplkittle on 01/29/2008 17:33:56
It all depends on how you use it.
A bazooka sub can add nice clean bass at a balanced level with the mids and highs, or you can push it a little harder for more thump. The harder you push it, the shorter the life span of the sub.
Bazooka preloaded boxes with the built in amplifier are not at all bad quality, they are just not as strong as a seperate amp and sub combo like you normally see in vehicles.
The problem is that there are alot of kids out there that want $2,000 worth of bass for less than $150. THey will buy the more modestly priced equiptment and give it hell, then badmouth it when it does not hold up like the high end equiptment does.
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