k, i have 2 12inch Soundstream SPL 12 subs, rated at 300rms/600peak, ive read a couple reviews on these subs, and people say and that they had a Lanzar Vibe1800D pushing the subs, at 2ohms, and at 2ohms that amp is 1200x1, so it was giving around 600watts to each sub.?? will these subs blow eventually? i mean how much can subs handle and the manual plus website show the subs at 300rms/600peak watts, but on like other sites review sites there claiming under tech specs. these subs are 600rms, and yes i have the right model number and part number to the exact they are talkin about.
Replies (23)
newB on 01/26/2008 19:17:01
that lanzar amp probably isnt putting out nearly the RMS its "rated" at
-Drew
swez on 01/26/2008 19:27:21
These are 300 RMS per sub. I have the 10" version, 4+4 DVC's. To get the most from them, a Class D amp that can handle 1 ohm loads and push 500-600 watts at 1 ohm would be ideal for these subs.
This series sub is very efficient and it does not take a huge amount of power to get them bumping. They'll sound great in a sealed box with an inner air space of 0.8-1.0 cu ft per chamber.
An alternate amp choice to consider is a 2 channel type that can deliver a solid 250-300 watts RMS @ 2 ohms/channel or bridge the amp to MONO and wire them for a net 4 ohm load. The Low Pass filter should be set between 70-100 Hz. This amp will get you there on a tight budget:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17675
Swez
schust06 on 01/27/2008 12:54:32
ok well how about this amp http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18338
600x1 at 2ohms, even though its a one channel amp, i can put both speaker wires in there, and it will put 300 to each, correct?
swez on 01/27/2008 16:49:02
The SS SPL Series woofers are dual coil, (4+4 ohm coils) and this RF amp is not rated for 1 ohm loads. RF builds their amps like tanks, but if you tried wiring all sub coils in parallel to this amp, (1 ohm load net) at high power levels, the amp is likely to go into thermal/low ohm protect mode and shut down.
Another option is to wire each sub as 8 ohms. (Each coil in series nets 8 ohms) and then use each terminal output on the amp for a net 4 ohm load. That is safe for this amp, but power output will be about 350 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. That will work, is safe for the amp and subs but you'll lose about 3-4dB of audio power to the subs. (175 watts per sub)
On the up side of this option, these subs are very efficient and you can still expect solid bass SPL at the power levels this amp can deliver to a 4 ohm load. (That's about +125dB of bass SPL)
"Yep, that dog will hunt" !!!
Swez
schust06 on 01/27/2008 17:22:34
well ok, so the main thing is i should wire these dual 4ohm subs, down to 1 ohm, and get a amp that is 1ohm stable. now the back of these subs dont say dual 4ohm, but obivously they are, but on the back they say 2/8ohm, basically saying you can wiring them in 2 or 4ohm loads? but i can also take it down to 1ohm, and that is what i should do? also i have about 250 to spend on an amp, so can i get a couple suggestions?? the one i can get that has worked for me great is a Memphis 1000d, thats 1100 watts at 1ohms? hit me back
cplkittle on 01/27/2008 18:49:47
Each sub can be wired to two ohms. If you wire the two subs (2ohms each) in parallel, you will get 1 ohm.
As for the memphis 1000d, this is one of the most recognized amps in the world. One of the most coveted as well. It is a solid performer. A little strong for your 2 SPL12's, but as long as you keep the gain down, you will be ok.
I don't know if memphis still rebuilds these, but back in the day, you could send one back that had been through a fire, and they charged next to nothing to fix it.
schust06 on 01/31/2008 19:37:43
another question, cause i dont know much about wiring, if i wire the two subs 2 ohms each, then connect them to the amp, wont that be 2 ohms each, and i dont run them in parallel??? i mean im just trying to understand how it works. wiring them down to 1ohm will get the most out of the subs, and 2ohms wont?, just courious,.. and that amp you guys recommended the Kenwood, it says wired at 2ohms 600x1, and wired into 1ohm it says 600+ or more watts,??? i mean what is that 600 and more??? plz hit me back thanks
cplkittle on 02/1/2008 00:21:35
Here is how it breaks down...
If an amplifier is 1000 watts at 1 ohm it will be:
500 watts at 2 ohms
250 watts at 4 ohms
125 watts at 8 ohms.
Basically everytime you double the resistance (ohms) the output power is cut in half.
The kenwood would not be my first choice. It is a decent amp capable of running your subs, but when they start throwing out figures like "more than 600 watts" you can tell they are B.S.ing you. That amp has a 40 amp fuse on it. If you multiply 40amps x 12 volts, you get 480watts. That is not even close to the 1200 it says it can produce. As a matter of fact, you would need 30 volts to get 1200 watts from that amplifier.
For a true 600 watt amplifier, you need 50 amps worth of fuses.
Like this one for example:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3011_Diamond+Audio+D3+600.1.html
Unfortunately they are out of stock, but if you can find one of these, it will run the subs at a true 600watts RMS @1 ohm.
It has 2x 35 amp fuses.
schust06 on 02/1/2008 08:39:07
ok so how about this amp
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9795_Phoenix+Gold+Ryval+V8001.html#
its fuses are 3x35, and its 800x1@ 2ohms, not 1ohm stable. should i get 300-400 watts to each sub? i just need to find a good amp that will continue to produce 300-350 to each sub, and be efficent.
also i mean i understand the that the watts are lower when your double 2/4/8/ ohms,. does it change anything with the subs? or is it just the amp? if i wire this in 2ohm and not 1ohm will i be using both coils, and will i be using them well? if this makes any sense..
cplkittle on 02/1/2008 10:07:38
You should always use both coils on a sub, and the ohm load of all the speakers only matters to the amplifier.
That amplifier will not work on 2 dual 4 ohm subs. Your options for 2 dual 4 ohm subs are 16 ohms, 4 ohms, and 1 ohm. Since that amp is not 1 ohms stable, your next step up would be 4 ohms, which means the amp only gives 400watts rms meaning 200 watts per speaker.
The back of the subs say 2/8 ohms ( coils wired in parallel = 2 ohms, and if the coils are wired in series = 8 ohms)
Check out this page, It explains everything.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp
That is the best thing since sliced cheese!
schust06 on 02/1/2008 14:55:19
ok well i get it all now, i was looking at autotek amps also, i didnt know autotek,hifonics,mb quart, crunch are all the same company? so are they all made with the same parts and dont differ much from each other? cause i fould these two autotek amps.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18150
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18179
let me know wha you think
swez on 02/1/2008 15:34:10
This amp would do the job well for your application. It's a tad strong for your subs, but with careful gain adjustments, it will do the job at 1 ohm loads:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9551_Hifonics+TXi1008D.html
RMS Power (4 ohms) 350 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (2 ohms) 700 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (1 ohm) 1000 watts x 1 channel
The price is very good and you have the ideal window to buy now. Yes, this amp is more power at 1 ohm loads than needed, but we can show you how to get the best performance with this sub/amp combo.
Comments?
Swez
schust06 on 02/1/2008 16:41:01
yeah it sounds good, so did you check out the autotek ss 1000.1d? is it basically the same amp, just lower quality?
schust06 on 02/1/2008 16:47:59
also what is the easiest and quickest way to determine how many watts your amp is producing,. you need a digital multimeter, and you just just touch the postive and negitive wires to certain part of the amp?
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 07:53:56
That is the biggest can of worms in the business.
The quickest way (without having to buy the amp) is knowing a little math.
Amps x Volts = Watts or in other words (fuse rating x 12 = output power)
Class D amps are around 65% efficient (35% of the power is lost in heat)
An amp that has 2 x 40amp fuses will be a 1000 watt amp.
after you subtract the efficiency, you get 650 watts.
RMS is 70.7% of peak power. 650 watts peak x .707 = 460 watts RMS.
Sucks dosen't it? All amplifiers have capacitors in them, so output power could spike a little over the fuse rating, but the amp will not be able to sustain that output level thus calling it Peak power. Almost all amps on the market today are overrated. ( for example, the common 1000 watt amp has 2 x 25 amp fuses or less. )
If you buy a CEA-2006 compliant amplifier, you don't have to worry about any of this math. They will give you the true RMS and peak power using a set of voluntary standards to make it easier on the consumer.
Ever wonder why you never see the fuses on the pictures of amplifiers online?
Now you know.
swez on 02/2/2008 15:01:31
Yes, looked at the Autotek and passed when seeing it was a Class A/B type amp. Cleaner sound above 300 Hz., but high power consumption here. (A major Watt sucker to be sure)
Quote: "Class D amps are around 65% efficient (35% of the power is lost in heat) An amp that has 2 x 40amp fuses will be a 1000 watt amp.
after you subtract the efficiency, you get 650 watts."
Kit knows this well, but may have just made a typo. Most Class D's are closer to 80% eff. Class A/B amps are more like 60% eff. Some brands use better and more efficient power supplies and Fets, but that's the general breakdown on the 2 most common amps used in 12 volt audio systems.
Also, Class D amps are designed primarily for subwoofer use. Their usable frequency range is typicall 10-350 Hz. Class A/B amps are designed for subs and full range speakers. Here, the frequency range is more like 10-20,000 Hz. That's where the amplifier class distinctions come into play. (Sub amps VS full range is the basic consideration)
If we wanted to measure the actual RMS output of an amp, here's how it done:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=27819
They used to have a video and the steps, but it seems to have been pulled from their server files. The video was a nice tuitorial and they used load resistors to set the gain and not subs.
FYI: I often use 13.5 volts as the reference for power input from most car electrical systems. (12 volts when running off ACC power, and 13.5 volts when the engine is running and the ALT is the main source of power) For most amps, the higher the input voltage it gets, the more RMS output we see with the meter. It varies and often depends on the power supply used in a given amp power supply used. (Regulated or non-regulated power supplies are typically used in car audio amps)
Hope that helps,
Swez
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 15:59:53
Thank you Swez... I did have a brainfart there. This is how it should read:
Class D amps are around 80% efficient (20% of the power is lost in heat)
An amp that has 2 x 40amp fuses will be a 1000 watt amp.
after you subtract the efficiency, you get 800 watts.
RMS is 70.7% of peak power. 800 watts peak x .707 = 565 watts RMS.
schust06 on 02/2/2008 16:03:52
HEY,cplkittle so your from GA? if so what part? do you have a shop you work at?
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 16:04:54
I live just north of Rome. I only do car audio part time now. THe shop I work at is in Ooltewah, TN.
swez on 02/2/2008 16:24:54
No prob Kit... we all have those kind of days. (hehe)
So, how's the not-so-new job coming along? Are you settling in well and doing manageble hours these days?
Is this company ready to take on additional manpower in the near term? If no, never mind. If yes, shoot me a private e-mail so we can chat on the phone. Am definitely looking for a new gig soon as the one I have now shuts down in early June.
The next cycle comes back in September 2008 and I DON'T WANT this job as my only option in the hopper. The days are long, pay is well below average and it's too mindless a job for my loking. If the right opportunity came up, I'm well-ready to hand over the GPS, truck keys and let them figure out the rest. (Read as... "Am totally fed up with this "FUBAR" organization and the daily grind of mindless work at sub-par pay scales.... "Take this job and shove it" !!!)
Yep, it's a real grind all right and looking for a better gig is high on the priority list right now. Can gut it out as needed, but when one dreads going to work most days, it's time to move on! SAD
Swez
PS It's been a good training ground to develop above average "time management skills", sales development schemes, handling Customer Service issues on the fly, managing fires as they break out, dealing with difficult people and strategic planning in the midst of total chaos.
I made a big mistake when asking "The Big Man Upstairs" for greater patience and better conflict management skills. His answers were to dial up the heat several notches in several areas. Be careful what we pray for... we may not always enjoy the trials and tests that come with the answers we seek. GRIN The growing pains are good, but maybe just a little too intense right now? LOL
schust06 on 02/11/2008 21:15:46
hey, ok so i will be ordering my Hifonics amp, remembering what you said earlier as stated below,.. you would help me get the best performance, what do i need to know and do?
"This amp would do the job well for your application. It's a tad strong for your subs, but with careful gain adjustments, it will do the job at 1 ohm loads:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9551_Hifonics+TXi1008D.html
RMS Power (4 ohms) 350 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (2 ohms) 700 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (1 ohm) 1000 watts x 1 channel
The price is very good and you have the ideal window to buy now. Yes, this amp is more power at 1 ohm loads than needed, but we can show you how to get the best performance with this sub/amp combo." - Swez
schust06 on 03/12/2008 12:59:53
hey swez, so you said you could show me how to get the best performance out of this sub/amp combo, Hifonic 1000 watts amp and my Soundstreams. so what do i need to know and do
swez on 03/12/2008 17:07:40
Once you get this amp, have a DMM, (Digital Meter) on hand to measure the AC voltage at the amp output lugs when the subs are wired up in full parallel for a net 1 ohm load.
The target AC signal voltage to hit 600 watts RMS is 24.5 VAC.
To do this test well, a 50-60 Hz test tone that is calibrated to 0dB is the signal source preferred. If you read this article, it tells exactly how to calibrate the amp for desired output:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=27819
Video Version:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/gains_video.php
Again, the target voltage on the meter will be 24.5 volts AC = 600 watts RMS to a 1 ohm load.
Got all that now?
Swez
Replies (23)
newB on 01/26/2008 19:17:01
that lanzar amp probably isnt putting out nearly the RMS its "rated" at
-Drew
swez on 01/26/2008 19:27:21
These are 300 RMS per sub. I have the 10" version, 4+4 DVC's. To get the most from them, a Class D amp that can handle 1 ohm loads and push 500-600 watts at 1 ohm would be ideal for these subs.
This series sub is very efficient and it does not take a huge amount of power to get them bumping. They'll sound great in a sealed box with an inner air space of 0.8-1.0 cu ft per chamber.
An alternate amp choice to consider is a 2 channel type that can deliver a solid 250-300 watts RMS @ 2 ohms/channel or bridge the amp to MONO and wire them for a net 4 ohm load. The Low Pass filter should be set between 70-100 Hz. This amp will get you there on a tight budget:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17675
Swez
schust06 on 01/27/2008 12:54:32
ok well how about this amp http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18338
600x1 at 2ohms, even though its a one channel amp, i can put both speaker wires in there, and it will put 300 to each, correct?
swez on 01/27/2008 16:49:02
The SS SPL Series woofers are dual coil, (4+4 ohm coils) and this RF amp is not rated for 1 ohm loads. RF builds their amps like tanks, but if you tried wiring all sub coils in parallel to this amp, (1 ohm load net) at high power levels, the amp is likely to go into thermal/low ohm protect mode and shut down.
Another option is to wire each sub as 8 ohms. (Each coil in series nets 8 ohms) and then use each terminal output on the amp for a net 4 ohm load. That is safe for this amp, but power output will be about 350 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. That will work, is safe for the amp and subs but you'll lose about 3-4dB of audio power to the subs. (175 watts per sub)
On the up side of this option, these subs are very efficient and you can still expect solid bass SPL at the power levels this amp can deliver to a 4 ohm load. (That's about +125dB of bass SPL)
"Yep, that dog will hunt" !!!
Swez
schust06 on 01/27/2008 17:22:34
well ok, so the main thing is i should wire these dual 4ohm subs, down to 1 ohm, and get a amp that is 1ohm stable. now the back of these subs dont say dual 4ohm, but obivously they are, but on the back they say 2/8ohm, basically saying you can wiring them in 2 or 4ohm loads? but i can also take it down to 1ohm, and that is what i should do? also i have about 250 to spend on an amp, so can i get a couple suggestions?? the one i can get that has worked for me great is a Memphis 1000d, thats 1100 watts at 1ohms? hit me back
cplkittle on 01/27/2008 18:49:47
Each sub can be wired to two ohms. If you wire the two subs (2ohms each) in parallel, you will get 1 ohm.
As for the memphis 1000d, this is one of the most recognized amps in the world. One of the most coveted as well. It is a solid performer. A little strong for your 2 SPL12's, but as long as you keep the gain down, you will be ok.
I don't know if memphis still rebuilds these, but back in the day, you could send one back that had been through a fire, and they charged next to nothing to fix it.
schust06 on 01/31/2008 19:37:43
another question, cause i dont know much about wiring, if i wire the two subs 2 ohms each, then connect them to the amp, wont that be 2 ohms each, and i dont run them in parallel??? i mean im just trying to understand how it works. wiring them down to 1ohm will get the most out of the subs, and 2ohms wont?, just courious,.. and that amp you guys recommended the Kenwood, it says wired at 2ohms 600x1, and wired into 1ohm it says 600+ or more watts,??? i mean what is that 600 and more??? plz hit me back thanks
cplkittle on 02/1/2008 00:21:35
Here is how it breaks down...
If an amplifier is 1000 watts at 1 ohm it will be:
500 watts at 2 ohms
250 watts at 4 ohms
125 watts at 8 ohms.
Basically everytime you double the resistance (ohms) the output power is cut in half.
The kenwood would not be my first choice. It is a decent amp capable of running your subs, but when they start throwing out figures like "more than 600 watts" you can tell they are B.S.ing you. That amp has a 40 amp fuse on it. If you multiply 40amps x 12 volts, you get 480watts. That is not even close to the 1200 it says it can produce. As a matter of fact, you would need 30 volts to get 1200 watts from that amplifier.
For a true 600 watt amplifier, you need 50 amps worth of fuses.
Like this one for example:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3011_Diamond+Audio+D3+600.1.html
Unfortunately they are out of stock, but if you can find one of these, it will run the subs at a true 600watts RMS @1 ohm.
It has 2x 35 amp fuses.
schust06 on 02/1/2008 08:39:07
ok so how about this amp
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9795_Phoenix+Gold+Ryval+V8001.html#
its fuses are 3x35, and its 800x1@ 2ohms, not 1ohm stable. should i get 300-400 watts to each sub? i just need to find a good amp that will continue to produce 300-350 to each sub, and be efficent.
also i mean i understand the that the watts are lower when your double 2/4/8/ ohms,. does it change anything with the subs? or is it just the amp? if i wire this in 2ohm and not 1ohm will i be using both coils, and will i be using them well? if this makes any sense..
cplkittle on 02/1/2008 10:07:38
You should always use both coils on a sub, and the ohm load of all the speakers only matters to the amplifier.
That amplifier will not work on 2 dual 4 ohm subs. Your options for 2 dual 4 ohm subs are 16 ohms, 4 ohms, and 1 ohm. Since that amp is not 1 ohms stable, your next step up would be 4 ohms, which means the amp only gives 400watts rms meaning 200 watts per speaker.
The back of the subs say 2/8 ohms ( coils wired in parallel = 2 ohms, and if the coils are wired in series = 8 ohms)
Check out this page, It explains everything.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp
That is the best thing since sliced cheese!
schust06 on 02/1/2008 14:55:19
ok well i get it all now, i was looking at autotek amps also, i didnt know autotek,hifonics,mb quart, crunch are all the same company? so are they all made with the same parts and dont differ much from each other? cause i fould these two autotek amps.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18150
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18179
let me know wha you think
swez on 02/1/2008 15:34:10
This amp would do the job well for your application. It's a tad strong for your subs, but with careful gain adjustments, it will do the job at 1 ohm loads:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9551_Hifonics+TXi1008D.html
RMS Power (4 ohms) 350 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (2 ohms) 700 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (1 ohm) 1000 watts x 1 channel
The price is very good and you have the ideal window to buy now. Yes, this amp is more power at 1 ohm loads than needed, but we can show you how to get the best performance with this sub/amp combo.
Comments?
Swez
schust06 on 02/1/2008 16:41:01
yeah it sounds good, so did you check out the autotek ss 1000.1d? is it basically the same amp, just lower quality?
schust06 on 02/1/2008 16:47:59
also what is the easiest and quickest way to determine how many watts your amp is producing,. you need a digital multimeter, and you just just touch the postive and negitive wires to certain part of the amp?
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 07:53:56
That is the biggest can of worms in the business.
The quickest way (without having to buy the amp) is knowing a little math.
Amps x Volts = Watts or in other words (fuse rating x 12 = output power)
Class D amps are around 65% efficient (35% of the power is lost in heat)
An amp that has 2 x 40amp fuses will be a 1000 watt amp.
after you subtract the efficiency, you get 650 watts.
RMS is 70.7% of peak power. 650 watts peak x .707 = 460 watts RMS.
Sucks dosen't it? All amplifiers have capacitors in them, so output power could spike a little over the fuse rating, but the amp will not be able to sustain that output level thus calling it Peak power. Almost all amps on the market today are overrated. ( for example, the common 1000 watt amp has 2 x 25 amp fuses or less. )
If you buy a CEA-2006 compliant amplifier, you don't have to worry about any of this math. They will give you the true RMS and peak power using a set of voluntary standards to make it easier on the consumer.
Ever wonder why you never see the fuses on the pictures of amplifiers online?
Now you know.
swez on 02/2/2008 15:01:31
Yes, looked at the Autotek and passed when seeing it was a Class A/B type amp. Cleaner sound above 300 Hz., but high power consumption here. (A major Watt sucker to be sure)
Quote: "Class D amps are around 65% efficient (35% of the power is lost in heat) An amp that has 2 x 40amp fuses will be a 1000 watt amp.
after you subtract the efficiency, you get 650 watts."
Kit knows this well, but may have just made a typo. Most Class D's are closer to 80% eff. Class A/B amps are more like 60% eff. Some brands use better and more efficient power supplies and Fets, but that's the general breakdown on the 2 most common amps used in 12 volt audio systems.
Also, Class D amps are designed primarily for subwoofer use. Their usable frequency range is typicall 10-350 Hz. Class A/B amps are designed for subs and full range speakers. Here, the frequency range is more like 10-20,000 Hz. That's where the amplifier class distinctions come into play. (Sub amps VS full range is the basic consideration)
If we wanted to measure the actual RMS output of an amp, here's how it done:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=27819
They used to have a video and the steps, but it seems to have been pulled from their server files. The video was a nice tuitorial and they used load resistors to set the gain and not subs.
FYI: I often use 13.5 volts as the reference for power input from most car electrical systems. (12 volts when running off ACC power, and 13.5 volts when the engine is running and the ALT is the main source of power) For most amps, the higher the input voltage it gets, the more RMS output we see with the meter. It varies and often depends on the power supply used in a given amp power supply used. (Regulated or non-regulated power supplies are typically used in car audio amps)
Hope that helps,
Swez
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 15:59:53
Thank you Swez... I did have a brainfart there. This is how it should read:
Class D amps are around 80% efficient (20% of the power is lost in heat)
An amp that has 2 x 40amp fuses will be a 1000 watt amp.
after you subtract the efficiency, you get 800 watts.
RMS is 70.7% of peak power. 800 watts peak x .707 = 565 watts RMS.
schust06 on 02/2/2008 16:03:52
HEY,cplkittle so your from GA? if so what part? do you have a shop you work at?
cplkittle on 02/2/2008 16:04:54
I live just north of Rome. I only do car audio part time now. THe shop I work at is in Ooltewah, TN.
swez on 02/2/2008 16:24:54
No prob Kit... we all have those kind of days. (hehe)
So, how's the not-so-new job coming along? Are you settling in well and doing manageble hours these days?
Is this company ready to take on additional manpower in the near term? If no, never mind. If yes, shoot me a private e-mail so we can chat on the phone. Am definitely looking for a new gig soon as the one I have now shuts down in early June.
The next cycle comes back in September 2008 and I DON'T WANT this job as my only option in the hopper. The days are long, pay is well below average and it's too mindless a job for my loking. If the right opportunity came up, I'm well-ready to hand over the GPS, truck keys and let them figure out the rest. (Read as... "Am totally fed up with this "FUBAR" organization and the daily grind of mindless work at sub-par pay scales.... "Take this job and shove it" !!!)
Yep, it's a real grind all right and looking for a better gig is high on the priority list right now. Can gut it out as needed, but when one dreads going to work most days, it's time to move on! SAD
Swez
PS It's been a good training ground to develop above average "time management skills", sales development schemes, handling Customer Service issues on the fly, managing fires as they break out, dealing with difficult people and strategic planning in the midst of total chaos.
I made a big mistake when asking "The Big Man Upstairs" for greater patience and better conflict management skills. His answers were to dial up the heat several notches in several areas. Be careful what we pray for... we may not always enjoy the trials and tests that come with the answers we seek. GRIN The growing pains are good, but maybe just a little too intense right now? LOL
schust06 on 02/11/2008 21:15:46
hey, ok so i will be ordering my Hifonics amp, remembering what you said earlier as stated below,.. you would help me get the best performance, what do i need to know and do?
"This amp would do the job well for your application. It's a tad strong for your subs, but with careful gain adjustments, it will do the job at 1 ohm loads:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9551_Hifonics+TXi1008D.html
RMS Power (4 ohms) 350 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (2 ohms) 700 watts x 1 channel
RMS Power (1 ohm) 1000 watts x 1 channel
The price is very good and you have the ideal window to buy now. Yes, this amp is more power at 1 ohm loads than needed, but we can show you how to get the best performance with this sub/amp combo." - Swez
schust06 on 03/12/2008 12:59:53
hey swez, so you said you could show me how to get the best performance out of this sub/amp combo, Hifonic 1000 watts amp and my Soundstreams. so what do i need to know and do
swez on 03/12/2008 17:07:40
Once you get this amp, have a DMM, (Digital Meter) on hand to measure the AC voltage at the amp output lugs when the subs are wired up in full parallel for a net 1 ohm load.
The target AC signal voltage to hit 600 watts RMS is 24.5 VAC.
To do this test well, a 50-60 Hz test tone that is calibrated to 0dB is the signal source preferred. If you read this article, it tells exactly how to calibrate the amp for desired output:
http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=27819
Video Version:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/gains_video.php
Again, the target voltage on the meter will be 24.5 volts AC = 600 watts RMS to a 1 ohm load.
Got all that now?
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
