I have 2 Audiobahn AW1205N 2 ohm DVC and 2 Audiobahn A8001DT install in a 2007 Chevy Equinox. 1 sub 1amp wiring at 2 ohms to read 1 ohm. Wiring that I'm using is Kicker PKD1 and Kicker RCA cable. I already upgrade the big 3 cables and I keep the existing cable still attached. My lights still dim when I'm playing my music. My question is should I add a 2nd battery or should I upgrade my alternator and battery.
Replies (3)
swez on 01/4/2008 04:49:27
A 2nd battery can help the bass remain strong during transient peaks, but light dimming is a tough one to fix completely until we have adequate ALT amperage at low RPM speeds.
The main function of the battery is to start the engine. Once the engine is running, the ALT takes over, recharges the battery and then powers the entire electrical system to its capacity. If that capacity is exceeded, the battery will take up the short-term slack for a while, but the ALT is now working very hard to supply all power demands and still attempts to charge the battery too. (This puts a real strain on a typical Stock ALT.) Light dimming is often the first sign the charging system is not keeping up with load demands.
FYI: A stock ALT is rated in 2 parameters: (Speed the armature turns at and output capacity)
1. Idle speed output (~50% of max output)
2. Max output at ~2500 RPM
Most passenger cars employ a 100-110 ampere ALT and enough battery power to start an engine at -20 degrees F. (550-650 CCA rated batteries are the typical for V-6 & V-8 engines)
For those who add large, current hogging amps for their bass engines, need a lot more juice to run them properly. A typical sedan needs about 60% of current to power all main systems in a modern vehicle. That leaves about 35-40% in reserve for add ons.
This is not a big issue in smaller bass systems. However, when using high current draw amplifiers and running them hard at low engine speeds, light dimming is inevitable. The electrical system is robbing Peter to pay Paul and visa-versa.
The permanent solution is to use a High Output ALT and 2 matched batteries. Most H.O. ALT's can deliver 60-75% of full power at low RPM's. To do this well, they often use a smaller diameter pulley to spin the ALT at higher RPM's while the engine is at low RPM's.
I'll stop here for now, let you digest all this info and then come back with your comments and thoughts.
Swez
PS These amps are rated at 800 watts RMS @ 1 ohm loads. Each amp will consume roughly 60A's of current at full power. (120 A's with 2 amps) This exceeds most stock electrical systems by a larger margin. Yes, we can account for duty cycles and note the current draw is generally less severe when listening to music as opposed to tourture testing bass test tones.
Here, a 200-250 Ampere HO ALT would be sufficient to power both amps well and also power a dedictaed HO battery as a buffer/adjunct to what you have now. Heavy gage wiring is also needed to keep the current flow to the buffer battery and amps up to snuff.
cplkittle on 01/4/2008 23:00:05
That's like asking if you need a second credit card or a better paying job.
One is a temporary fix - the other is a solution.
swez on 01/5/2008 11:23:49
I'll take door #2... "a better paying job"
Swez
Replies (3)
swez on 01/4/2008 04:49:27
A 2nd battery can help the bass remain strong during transient peaks, but light dimming is a tough one to fix completely until we have adequate ALT amperage at low RPM speeds.
The main function of the battery is to start the engine. Once the engine is running, the ALT takes over, recharges the battery and then powers the entire electrical system to its capacity. If that capacity is exceeded, the battery will take up the short-term slack for a while, but the ALT is now working very hard to supply all power demands and still attempts to charge the battery too. (This puts a real strain on a typical Stock ALT.) Light dimming is often the first sign the charging system is not keeping up with load demands.
FYI: A stock ALT is rated in 2 parameters: (Speed the armature turns at and output capacity)
1. Idle speed output (~50% of max output)
2. Max output at ~2500 RPM
Most passenger cars employ a 100-110 ampere ALT and enough battery power to start an engine at -20 degrees F. (550-650 CCA rated batteries are the typical for V-6 & V-8 engines)
For those who add large, current hogging amps for their bass engines, need a lot more juice to run them properly. A typical sedan needs about 60% of current to power all main systems in a modern vehicle. That leaves about 35-40% in reserve for add ons.
This is not a big issue in smaller bass systems. However, when using high current draw amplifiers and running them hard at low engine speeds, light dimming is inevitable. The electrical system is robbing Peter to pay Paul and visa-versa.
The permanent solution is to use a High Output ALT and 2 matched batteries. Most H.O. ALT's can deliver 60-75% of full power at low RPM's. To do this well, they often use a smaller diameter pulley to spin the ALT at higher RPM's while the engine is at low RPM's.
I'll stop here for now, let you digest all this info and then come back with your comments and thoughts.
Swez
PS These amps are rated at 800 watts RMS @ 1 ohm loads. Each amp will consume roughly 60A's of current at full power. (120 A's with 2 amps) This exceeds most stock electrical systems by a larger margin. Yes, we can account for duty cycles and note the current draw is generally less severe when listening to music as opposed to tourture testing bass test tones.
Here, a 200-250 Ampere HO ALT would be sufficient to power both amps well and also power a dedictaed HO battery as a buffer/adjunct to what you have now. Heavy gage wiring is also needed to keep the current flow to the buffer battery and amps up to snuff.
cplkittle on 01/4/2008 23:00:05
That's like asking if you need a second credit card or a better paying job.
One is a temporary fix - the other is a solution.
swez on 01/5/2008 11:23:49
I'll take door #2... "a better paying job"
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
