I just bought a Jensen MP6212 head unit that has 2 RCA (1 red/1 white) output jacks to “connect to an optional amplifier” (manual) and a blue remote wire (for power antenna or amplifier). I want to add an Infinity Basslink subwoofer (I bought used 3 years ago and have never powered it up)and thought I would hook it up while installing my head unit to see if it would work before I took the time to install and hide wires etc. It’s not working. I wired everything according to the 4 page manual at Infinity’s site http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/BassLink%20om.pdf
And no luck. I hooked an RCA cord from the Basslink’s line level input to the head unit’s RCA output jacks, I used the power wire and ground wire in the dash that went to my factory radio, and hooked the blue remote wire (for power antenna or amplifier) to the Basslink’s “remote” terminal. When I cut the radio on the power LED to the Basslink comes on but no sound….ANY IDEAS???... An alternate wiring option to the “line level input” that has 4 rca jacks ( front R/L & rear R/L) is what they call a Universal Interface which requires their proprietary square plug adapters, one for the rear(rt. +/- & left +/-) and the same for the front….which I don’t have. Should I have run a power wire direct from the + batt. Terminal vs. using the factory in dash power wire and also grounded to the chassis vs. using the in dash brown ground wire. Is it worth opening up the subwoofer and looking around for anything obvious. Can I install an amp and connect directly to the subwoofer’s speaker wire connectors and use it to avoid buying a speaker and box. I’m assuming this a quality speaker and box…..Could it be tested and easily repaired???What typically goes wrong with these units?? Thx for any help…This has been frustrating.
Replies (5)
kirchatndftbl on 01/1/2008 18:41:40
u said that you used the power and ground thats running the HU for the bass link???
that could be the problem since the factory ground sometimes isnt even good enough for an aftermarket HU by itself
try running a separate power line from the battery and ground it to the cars body and it should work
not really familia with the basslinks though maybe swez or one of the golds on here have some advice on this
swez on 01/1/2008 19:11:49
Yep, you may need to bench test this unit before installing it. The B+ connector needs a solid 12 volt source and adequate wiring to carry the current to allow the amp to work properly. Here, a #10 gage line and 25A inline fuse is recommended, 18" from the battery connection or a bit less.
The ground wire is equally important as it is the return path to the battery for a complete circuit loop. This needs to be shorter than 3 feet in length and terminated to a bare metal ground. A poor ground will often mimic a dead amp.
One thing I noted in this HU package, it comes with an AUX input cable for MP3 or I-Pod players. This can be very handy for testing the amp on the work bench before you spend all that time wiring things up in a permanent install. (Only to find out later the amp or sub is kaput)
If you want a road map of how to set things up on a bench test, just ask and we'll give you the steps. The basic things needed are:
1. A 12 volt power supply (Car battery and a charger will do)
2. Some power cables and inline fuse as noted before
3. That Aux cable that came with the Jensen HU (RCA's plugged into the input jacks of the amp)
4. A portable CD/Cassette/MP3 player with earphone jack that matches this cable headpone jack (3.5MM stereo jack)
5. A short jumper wire to turn the REMote amp feature on (A short piece of speaker wire will do, jumped between the B+ terminal and the REMote lugs on your amp)
If you can pull all that together, then bench testing this amp will be easy.
Comments?
Swez
hraustin on 01/1/2008 21:42:53
Hey...Thx a million for such a prompt reply....I have a little hope for my Basslink.
Yes, If you have a roadmap for the bench test that would be great.
I didn't understand your comment as to how i would use the aux input cable for the ipod. The HU has 2 rca inputs(RT/left) on the back and they gave me a cable with 2 rca plugs on one end and a 3.5mm plug on the other end. How would I use the HU "aux in" inputs or the cable for the amp test? The amp would be plugged in to the " RCA output" which there are 2 wires coming out of the HU with rca plugs on them (red & white). ... Will I be playing my ipod to test the amp ???
Is it really important or necessary to install the 25 amp fuse on the Batt + wire just to do the bench test (a trip to the store) ??
If this all doesn't work, what typically goes wrong with these 200W powered amps? Can they usually be fixed or use the speaker & Box with another amp driving them?
Thx a Million again!!!
ttocs on 01/1/2008 22:42:08
you can use that same ipod rca to headphone adaptor on your ipod, but plugged directly into the amp rather then the deck. It is the same signal.
I also agree that your dash wiring will not supply enough current to the basslink, what size wire were you using?
As long as you do not ground out the power wire you do not need the fuse. Nobody ever entends on shorting power wires however so it is always a good idea.
swez on 01/2/2008 20:49:37
Well, I gave you the road map already, (Diagnostics test) in an earlier post. If it's a bit above your comprehension level at the moment, having a buddy that really knows car stereo gear well or having this BassLink tested at a local shop should be worth $20.00 for a quick test to say yeh/ney.
If the amp is damaged, it will cost about $60.00 to test + parts to fix. If the subwoofer is seized, (Not likely) it can still be used with an outboard amp. But before going that far, consider more cost effective options.
Swez
PS These system are pretty robust and sitting around a few years in a box is usually not a problem. However, sitting uncovered in a garage, things do happen and the old TV Tech test... (a good rap on the unit) may get er going again.
And no luck. I hooked an RCA cord from the Basslink’s line level input to the head unit’s RCA output jacks, I used the power wire and ground wire in the dash that went to my factory radio, and hooked the blue remote wire (for power antenna or amplifier) to the Basslink’s “remote” terminal. When I cut the radio on the power LED to the Basslink comes on but no sound….ANY IDEAS???... An alternate wiring option to the “line level input” that has 4 rca jacks ( front R/L & rear R/L) is what they call a Universal Interface which requires their proprietary square plug adapters, one for the rear(rt. +/- & left +/-) and the same for the front….which I don’t have. Should I have run a power wire direct from the + batt. Terminal vs. using the factory in dash power wire and also grounded to the chassis vs. using the in dash brown ground wire. Is it worth opening up the subwoofer and looking around for anything obvious. Can I install an amp and connect directly to the subwoofer’s speaker wire connectors and use it to avoid buying a speaker and box. I’m assuming this a quality speaker and box…..Could it be tested and easily repaired???What typically goes wrong with these units?? Thx for any help…This has been frustrating.
Replies (5)
kirchatndftbl on 01/1/2008 18:41:40
u said that you used the power and ground thats running the HU for the bass link???
that could be the problem since the factory ground sometimes isnt even good enough for an aftermarket HU by itself
try running a separate power line from the battery and ground it to the cars body and it should work
not really familia with the basslinks though maybe swez or one of the golds on here have some advice on this
swez on 01/1/2008 19:11:49
Yep, you may need to bench test this unit before installing it. The B+ connector needs a solid 12 volt source and adequate wiring to carry the current to allow the amp to work properly. Here, a #10 gage line and 25A inline fuse is recommended, 18" from the battery connection or a bit less.
The ground wire is equally important as it is the return path to the battery for a complete circuit loop. This needs to be shorter than 3 feet in length and terminated to a bare metal ground. A poor ground will often mimic a dead amp.
One thing I noted in this HU package, it comes with an AUX input cable for MP3 or I-Pod players. This can be very handy for testing the amp on the work bench before you spend all that time wiring things up in a permanent install. (Only to find out later the amp or sub is kaput)
If you want a road map of how to set things up on a bench test, just ask and we'll give you the steps. The basic things needed are:
1. A 12 volt power supply (Car battery and a charger will do)
2. Some power cables and inline fuse as noted before
3. That Aux cable that came with the Jensen HU (RCA's plugged into the input jacks of the amp)
4. A portable CD/Cassette/MP3 player with earphone jack that matches this cable headpone jack (3.5MM stereo jack)
5. A short jumper wire to turn the REMote amp feature on (A short piece of speaker wire will do, jumped between the B+ terminal and the REMote lugs on your amp)
If you can pull all that together, then bench testing this amp will be easy.
Comments?
Swez
hraustin on 01/1/2008 21:42:53
Hey...Thx a million for such a prompt reply....I have a little hope for my Basslink.
Yes, If you have a roadmap for the bench test that would be great.
I didn't understand your comment as to how i would use the aux input cable for the ipod. The HU has 2 rca inputs(RT/left) on the back and they gave me a cable with 2 rca plugs on one end and a 3.5mm plug on the other end. How would I use the HU "aux in" inputs or the cable for the amp test? The amp would be plugged in to the " RCA output" which there are 2 wires coming out of the HU with rca plugs on them (red & white). ... Will I be playing my ipod to test the amp ???
Is it really important or necessary to install the 25 amp fuse on the Batt + wire just to do the bench test (a trip to the store) ??
If this all doesn't work, what typically goes wrong with these 200W powered amps? Can they usually be fixed or use the speaker & Box with another amp driving them?
Thx a Million again!!!
ttocs on 01/1/2008 22:42:08
you can use that same ipod rca to headphone adaptor on your ipod, but plugged directly into the amp rather then the deck. It is the same signal.
I also agree that your dash wiring will not supply enough current to the basslink, what size wire were you using?
As long as you do not ground out the power wire you do not need the fuse. Nobody ever entends on shorting power wires however so it is always a good idea.
swez on 01/2/2008 20:49:37
Well, I gave you the road map already, (Diagnostics test) in an earlier post. If it's a bit above your comprehension level at the moment, having a buddy that really knows car stereo gear well or having this BassLink tested at a local shop should be worth $20.00 for a quick test to say yeh/ney.
If the amp is damaged, it will cost about $60.00 to test + parts to fix. If the subwoofer is seized, (Not likely) it can still be used with an outboard amp. But before going that far, consider more cost effective options.
Swez
PS These system are pretty robust and sitting around a few years in a box is usually not a problem. However, sitting uncovered in a garage, things do happen and the old TV Tech test... (a good rap on the unit) may get er going again.
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