First, let me start up with a breif description of the provisional system I have put myself together to get me through till I get the rest of everything figured out.
My new, working, prized 4 channel sub amp, a JBL GTO75.4 II, rated 284x2 watts bridged
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=109GTO754&c=3&tp=115&tab=features_and_specs
working with a set of 10" MTX Thunder 4000's. 200RMS each Scored these in a box for $50
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/2001Thunder4000Sub.cfm
With the old Alpine CDA-9807
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1O7n0cQrqIs/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=500CDA9807
JBL LC-A75.2 for the front stage. 75x2 @ 4 ohms. No link available....
20wRMS ghetto old haggard Alpine Type-S 5.25 coaxials. Again, no link...
It hits pretty nice, but not quite up to my expectations. The homies think it's cool, but I find it lacking, but a great "get me through system." The old fire alarm meter DB meter was employed, and I got 126.9, up from 124.0 whith the old ghetto rig, and the box the subs came it before I sealed it up. It also sounds much cleaner, waaay deeper, but still has a nice amount of punchy upper bass.
The box the MTX's came in looks like a prefab loaded box, a bit old, but sounded ok at best. It is a ported box, and since MTX has many different offerings for enclosure types and sizes, may or may not be correct for these subs. The bass was very deep, and I liked that, but very "one noteish" and had virtualy no punchy upper bass. One of my car audio "students" even said it was fakin the funk, the ultimate sign of "fix it NOW!!"
So I busted out some old t-shirts, wrapped them in a fair amount of ol' silver (duct tape) and plugget the ports up. The difference, as noted by myself and all the boys, is seroiulsy night and day.
Which goes to my next point, how parting is such sweet sorrow. I am selling the subs (at a fair profit)to a ex-coworker who wants a system like mad, and will doing an install on his Volvo tommorrow morning at 60% the rate of a local shop. I'm evern throwing in my old haggard amp because he can't afford a nice Class-D for a few weeks, a fair deal for everybody. I good starter system, but I had enough starter systems to choke a moose, time for some real, fire alarm DB meter can't real bass.
Yes, the time for finishing the bumps is drawing nigh, and I can't be more excited. Now the goal is to build something that will have a decently level frequency response, (Like more of an SQ oreinted goal), but bass that will truly crush the opposition. I need my system to truly be over the top, with borderline "pimp my ride" status.
I want to put two 8's in each door (for a total of 4 8's) and do the 15 in the trunk. I will give a list of the amp I have first, and then the propective drivers to be used with it. I have researched this out pretty well, and am ordering the parts tommorrow. Here are the drivers I will be ordering, BTW, I will still be using the amps listed above.
Dayton Quattro series 15" subwoofer (1 to be used)
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=109GTO754&c=3&tp=115&tab=features_and_specs
Goldwood GW-8024 8" Butyl Surround Woofer 4 Ohm
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=290-356&scqty=4
The main issues I am have is finalizing the enclosure designs. I need tiny enclosure space to put the 2 8's in each front door, and whatever is neccassary to take no prisoners to accomplish the deepest bass possible with the single 15. I don't want to do free air for the 8's, but true sealed enclosures.
We have a plenty of power to work with for these drivers, and I am sure that it will pound as required.
I am also having trouble deciding what crossover point to use to blend fron the 8's to the 5.25 Infinity components I plan to use for the front stage. I am thinking either 150 or 200hz, unfortunately for now I will be using simple F-mods to accomplish the Lp filter needed for the 8's, so it needs to be one of two fixed points. I will eventually get a more active crossover, but thats a ways off yet.
The idea with crossing over the bass engine is to use the internal crossovers on the JBL amp (which are of excellent quality BTW) to seperate the 15" and the 8's, and to hopefully create a "soft spot" where cabin gain can take care of most of the work, and equalize the cabin gain peak somewhat. I think it will work nicely.
Anyway, your thoughts and responses are always appreciated, and I will be looking foward to them.
SQL
Replies (5)
swez on 01/1/2008 11:33:59
Let's take this one thing at a time for now and zoom in on the 8" drivers and your pending 15" sub.
Here, it makes sense to use the 15" for deep bass only. (60-70 Hz and down) Sealed would give a smooth response but less very deep bass. The Dayton QT385-4 15" Quatro Subwoofer 4 Ohm sub seems to be a solid choice here and on sale for $74.00 + S/H.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-560&ctab=10#Tabs
They recommend a sealed box with a Vb of 2.1 ft^3. for general use and the F3 point is 41.6 Hz. If using a slightly larger box, the F3 will be a tad lower, but power handling and tight lows are the trade off if you go with a Vb much larger than 2.5 ft^3. Ideally, that would drop the F3 down to ~36 Hz and pretty solid for deep lows w/o porting.
I would use the amp LPF set point of 70 Hz iniltially and tweak things from there. No need for a subsonic filter when using a sealed box.
Now, for the 8's, your Lower Bandpass filter on these would be 70 - 100 Hz using HPF type F-mods. (-12dB/oct slope) I would almost be tempted to consider the 100 Hz HPF as they'll be 12dB down at 50 Hz and ~6 dB down at 70 Hz. That makes more sense than a 70 Hz HPF. (Less low bass to cancel out what you are getting from the sub)
As for the upper BP limit, 250 - 300 seems like a very good option and would blend well with the 5.25" Midrange Comps later. The JBL LC-A752 amp mentioned has a variable LPF/HPF range is 32 - 320 Hz.
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/LCA752%20om.pdf
Here I would use the HPF amp setting between 70-100 Hz and a passive filter for each 8" driver to filter out signals above 250Hz. (-6dB should be adequate)
In this case, a Coil in series with each + speaker coil terminal would do the trick. (3.0mH looks about right) You will need 4 in all. (One per 8" driver) You could also use a Cap value of ~175uF, shunted to ground and get the same results. (Parallel configuration that shunts highs to ground) If you need more details on this, we can work that out later.
The last thing to consider is sealed pods for your 8's. Here, a little experimentation will be in order. That means a test box whereby Vb can be adjusted to find the best sealed enclosure size for these MB drivers. Frankly, I would load these in the rear doors/cabin for more comfort up front in a 4 door sedan. The test box would be variable between 0.25-0.4 ft^3 per driver. (Sealed) The most obvious choice would be a floor mounted box with dual 8's in each rear seat foot well. They would be firing upward to the roof if you don't have many rear seat passengers. If you do have rear seat passengers, a false floor and down firing drivers would be you best bet. (Tricky to install, but doable with some good design work initially)
Chew on this a while and comment as you wish,
Swez
PS Since they are low frequency drivers only, placement is not critical here. (Why junk up the front doors with large speaker enclosures when this can be religated to the rear cabin with very good results?) This allows a clean install for the front stage, all the bulky MB action is behind you and out of the way.
jamesp on 01/1/2008 13:05:55
I got lost in the translation somewhere.....
Are you using the 4 channel GTO for the Dayton 15" sub and four 8" woofers? If so, how will the four 8's be wired
and you are using the JBL 75.2 for the front stage comps or coaxial?? and keeping your Alpine HU
you are selling the MTX subs and an amp right?? Im just trying to floolw along and am a bit confused as usual...
SQL Thump...take pics of the installs and post them for us if it is not too much trouble......
swez on 01/1/2008 13:55:47
"Oh Foggy Days"... One has to be a little A.D.D. to track all this madness. If not ADD/ADHD, it's very confusing. SMILE (Have a touch of that too, so we manage Okie-Dokie) Hehe
As I understand the plan, the 4 channel GTO will power the front Comps and the sub will be bridged off the rear channels. The LC-A752 will power the 8's. (Net 90 Wrms x 2 @ 2 ohms per channel, stereo)
The HU amps will not be used unless he wants a pair of dash mounted, "Ambient tweets" and perhaps some tweeters in the rear???
Got all that now Jimmy?
Swez
PS Have a refurb JBL DA-1002 that I may be willing to sell if the price is right. It's a very basic amp, but solid as a rock. See page 8 for the specs. This amp is under-rated at 12.9 volts for full power:
100 x 2 @ 4 ohms (RMS @ 12.9 VDC)
150 x 2 @ 2 ohms
300 x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms
HPF/LPF/FR: Selectable crossover feature (12dB/oct.)
LPF @ 80 Hz. and below
HPF @ 120 Hz. and above
Flat @ Full Range
RCA Input range: (RCA's) 0.250 - 4.0 VAC
High range input: Pigtail available for >4.0 VAC use
Max current draw: ~32A's at full power
Use it periodically to power 4 ohm subs and it works flawlessly. Have the original box, the manual is noted below and have the High Signal patch cable pigtail as well. If anyone wants a solid 2 channel for sub or full range applications, it's available at a fair price.
FYI: The outer case has a few scratches from the previous owner, but the guts are solid. Sorry, I don't have a digi-cam for pics. Any reasonable offers will be considered + S/H. (OK, Shameless plug and I admit it, but to the right person, it's a solid bargain)
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/DA1002%20om.pdf
SQLThump on 01/17/2008 18:45:23
Ok, guys, sorry about the delay, but I just had one hell of a crazy few weeks.....
The MTX subs are gone. The install in homeboy's Volvo went pretty smooth, except the part where I drilled two holes in the wrong place through the firewall, and had to drill a third to get the cable through, and a nasty gash in my thumb when wrenching on one of his seats. He thought I did a great job, so he threw me an extra $25 for my efforts....Bonus DUUUDDDE!!
After that install, wnet and picked up my components, and immidiately installed them. They are Infinity Reference 5000CS components, a 5.25 set rated 75RMS at 4 ohms. They do pretty good, but honestly, do not live up to my expectations. Maybe the old LCA amp has just about had it, I am still messing with it about 2 weeks later to optimize performance. I am using the -3 DB setting on the crossover, as the whole upper end sounds a bit overpowering at times. I also want need to check out a few more tweeter locations before I mount them in as well. They are currently sitting on top of the dash, facing in towards the other tweeter.
I also went and picked up some new subs, since I really have to sideline the bass engine project to deal with some other stuff. Basically I have neither the time or money to do this right now. We might have to come back to that in a few months.
The new subs are Kenwood 12's rated at 200 RMS apiece. @ 4 ohms. The model number is on the back of the subs, but I am a bit ill today, and it's freezing nuts so there is no way I'm unenclosing them just to look at the numbers today. I believe the model number is KFC-3010, but I really need to check. They are in an Audiobahn box, so I am pretty sure the airspace is mismatched, because this is a fairly large box. I will find out the neccassary airspace and add internal bracing to improve the match.
I really do not like these subs much at all. They sound decent, but I am sure the enclosure is off, because it doesn't have much tight punchy bass in the upper range, and when they want to go deep, the sound gets sloppier than my handwriting. On top of that I made an idiot mistake, and decided not to pay attention when wiring up the box one of the many times I pulled it out, and put my trunk'l lock pin through the surround. I patched it with hot glue, and then I am pretty sure this caused an inbalanced cone to cause a tinsel lead to come slightly loose under the impossible to remove dustcap. So it works like 60% of the time. Fun.
Basically through my expirence with numerous Kenwood products, they sound and perform great, but cheap manufacturing makes their products not last the test of time. For Christ sake, what really respectable brands even use foam surrounds for a car sub anymore?
One main issue I am having with the whole system is the proper use of my H/U Media Xpander function.Turned off, I can get the sound from the comps perfect, they sound very beautiful, but I cannot get the bass I need from this rig without the use of the MX. I probably need to mess with it some more, but for now, it sounds pretty good for the most part, I'll wait till some warmer weather comes about, and really set everything a' screaming.
The whole install is still a bit ghetto, I am going to wait it out to get a few more things finalized ( a new amp wiring kit, better speaker wire, and possibly waiting till I get the 8's and 15) before I recarpet the whole car, and possibly reupholster the interior to meed my pimpmobile dreams. Found the perfect material for my taste, and might have to bust it out. After that, all I will need is my "move b****" horn, and I'll be rollin' Tony Montana status. I might bust out some pics just to show the current situation.
Swez, I may have to consider the amp offer, but what is a reasonable offer? Like 50 or so? I generally prefer to buy used equipment from freinds than any other source.......
swez on 01/18/2008 05:53:55
Yes, this is one of the older amps made by JBL and very solid too. It's in great working order, 2 channels and will deliver > 150 RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms/ch. I have the manual for it as well. DA-1002 and if you want to review the amp specs, look here:
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/DA1002%20om.pdf
Still have the original box it came in and a copy of the manual too. Just hollar if you're interested. Shoot me an e-mail and I'll give you price details and such as needed. (Higher than $50.00, but under $100 + S/H) swezdp@yahoo.com
Swez
PS Would like to set you/others up with a very solid amp, However, I am NOT a "Pawn Shop" dealer. The stuff I sell is well tested, gently used, well below "Market Value" and in full working order. The price I have in mind is well below what I paid for it, but I don't compete with "Pawn Shops." Like most good e-bay dealers, I offer a quality product. If it does not work, (DOA is not a chance) the buyer gets a full refund, minus S/H fees.
PSS "Friends are friends.., but business is business".
My new, working, prized 4 channel sub amp, a JBL GTO75.4 II, rated 284x2 watts bridged
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=109GTO754&c=3&tp=115&tab=features_and_specs
working with a set of 10" MTX Thunder 4000's. 200RMS each Scored these in a box for $50
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/2001Thunder4000Sub.cfm
With the old Alpine CDA-9807
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1O7n0cQrqIs/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?I=500CDA9807
JBL LC-A75.2 for the front stage. 75x2 @ 4 ohms. No link available....
20wRMS ghetto old haggard Alpine Type-S 5.25 coaxials. Again, no link...
It hits pretty nice, but not quite up to my expectations. The homies think it's cool, but I find it lacking, but a great "get me through system." The old fire alarm meter DB meter was employed, and I got 126.9, up from 124.0 whith the old ghetto rig, and the box the subs came it before I sealed it up. It also sounds much cleaner, waaay deeper, but still has a nice amount of punchy upper bass.
The box the MTX's came in looks like a prefab loaded box, a bit old, but sounded ok at best. It is a ported box, and since MTX has many different offerings for enclosure types and sizes, may or may not be correct for these subs. The bass was very deep, and I liked that, but very "one noteish" and had virtualy no punchy upper bass. One of my car audio "students" even said it was fakin the funk, the ultimate sign of "fix it NOW!!"
So I busted out some old t-shirts, wrapped them in a fair amount of ol' silver (duct tape) and plugget the ports up. The difference, as noted by myself and all the boys, is seroiulsy night and day.
Which goes to my next point, how parting is such sweet sorrow. I am selling the subs (at a fair profit)to a ex-coworker who wants a system like mad, and will doing an install on his Volvo tommorrow morning at 60% the rate of a local shop. I'm evern throwing in my old haggard amp because he can't afford a nice Class-D for a few weeks, a fair deal for everybody. I good starter system, but I had enough starter systems to choke a moose, time for some real, fire alarm DB meter can't real bass.
Yes, the time for finishing the bumps is drawing nigh, and I can't be more excited. Now the goal is to build something that will have a decently level frequency response, (Like more of an SQ oreinted goal), but bass that will truly crush the opposition. I need my system to truly be over the top, with borderline "pimp my ride" status.
I want to put two 8's in each door (for a total of 4 8's) and do the 15 in the trunk. I will give a list of the amp I have first, and then the propective drivers to be used with it. I have researched this out pretty well, and am ordering the parts tommorrow. Here are the drivers I will be ordering, BTW, I will still be using the amps listed above.
Dayton Quattro series 15" subwoofer (1 to be used)
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=120&i=109GTO754&c=3&tp=115&tab=features_and_specs
Goldwood GW-8024 8" Butyl Surround Woofer 4 Ohm
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=290-356&scqty=4
The main issues I am have is finalizing the enclosure designs. I need tiny enclosure space to put the 2 8's in each front door, and whatever is neccassary to take no prisoners to accomplish the deepest bass possible with the single 15. I don't want to do free air for the 8's, but true sealed enclosures.
We have a plenty of power to work with for these drivers, and I am sure that it will pound as required.
I am also having trouble deciding what crossover point to use to blend fron the 8's to the 5.25 Infinity components I plan to use for the front stage. I am thinking either 150 or 200hz, unfortunately for now I will be using simple F-mods to accomplish the Lp filter needed for the 8's, so it needs to be one of two fixed points. I will eventually get a more active crossover, but thats a ways off yet.
The idea with crossing over the bass engine is to use the internal crossovers on the JBL amp (which are of excellent quality BTW) to seperate the 15" and the 8's, and to hopefully create a "soft spot" where cabin gain can take care of most of the work, and equalize the cabin gain peak somewhat. I think it will work nicely.
Anyway, your thoughts and responses are always appreciated, and I will be looking foward to them.
SQL
Replies (5)
swez on 01/1/2008 11:33:59
Let's take this one thing at a time for now and zoom in on the 8" drivers and your pending 15" sub.
Here, it makes sense to use the 15" for deep bass only. (60-70 Hz and down) Sealed would give a smooth response but less very deep bass. The Dayton QT385-4 15" Quatro Subwoofer 4 Ohm sub seems to be a solid choice here and on sale for $74.00 + S/H.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-560&ctab=10#Tabs
They recommend a sealed box with a Vb of 2.1 ft^3. for general use and the F3 point is 41.6 Hz. If using a slightly larger box, the F3 will be a tad lower, but power handling and tight lows are the trade off if you go with a Vb much larger than 2.5 ft^3. Ideally, that would drop the F3 down to ~36 Hz and pretty solid for deep lows w/o porting.
I would use the amp LPF set point of 70 Hz iniltially and tweak things from there. No need for a subsonic filter when using a sealed box.
Now, for the 8's, your Lower Bandpass filter on these would be 70 - 100 Hz using HPF type F-mods. (-12dB/oct slope) I would almost be tempted to consider the 100 Hz HPF as they'll be 12dB down at 50 Hz and ~6 dB down at 70 Hz. That makes more sense than a 70 Hz HPF. (Less low bass to cancel out what you are getting from the sub)
As for the upper BP limit, 250 - 300 seems like a very good option and would blend well with the 5.25" Midrange Comps later. The JBL LC-A752 amp mentioned has a variable LPF/HPF range is 32 - 320 Hz.
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/LCA752%20om.pdf
Here I would use the HPF amp setting between 70-100 Hz and a passive filter for each 8" driver to filter out signals above 250Hz. (-6dB should be adequate)
In this case, a Coil in series with each + speaker coil terminal would do the trick. (3.0mH looks about right) You will need 4 in all. (One per 8" driver) You could also use a Cap value of ~175uF, shunted to ground and get the same results. (Parallel configuration that shunts highs to ground) If you need more details on this, we can work that out later.
The last thing to consider is sealed pods for your 8's. Here, a little experimentation will be in order. That means a test box whereby Vb can be adjusted to find the best sealed enclosure size for these MB drivers. Frankly, I would load these in the rear doors/cabin for more comfort up front in a 4 door sedan. The test box would be variable between 0.25-0.4 ft^3 per driver. (Sealed) The most obvious choice would be a floor mounted box with dual 8's in each rear seat foot well. They would be firing upward to the roof if you don't have many rear seat passengers. If you do have rear seat passengers, a false floor and down firing drivers would be you best bet. (Tricky to install, but doable with some good design work initially)
Chew on this a while and comment as you wish,
Swez
PS Since they are low frequency drivers only, placement is not critical here. (Why junk up the front doors with large speaker enclosures when this can be religated to the rear cabin with very good results?) This allows a clean install for the front stage, all the bulky MB action is behind you and out of the way.
jamesp on 01/1/2008 13:05:55
I got lost in the translation somewhere.....
Are you using the 4 channel GTO for the Dayton 15" sub and four 8" woofers? If so, how will the four 8's be wired
and you are using the JBL 75.2 for the front stage comps or coaxial?? and keeping your Alpine HU
you are selling the MTX subs and an amp right?? Im just trying to floolw along and am a bit confused as usual...
SQL Thump...take pics of the installs and post them for us if it is not too much trouble......
swez on 01/1/2008 13:55:47
"Oh Foggy Days"... One has to be a little A.D.D. to track all this madness. If not ADD/ADHD, it's very confusing. SMILE (Have a touch of that too, so we manage Okie-Dokie) Hehe
As I understand the plan, the 4 channel GTO will power the front Comps and the sub will be bridged off the rear channels. The LC-A752 will power the 8's. (Net 90 Wrms x 2 @ 2 ohms per channel, stereo)
The HU amps will not be used unless he wants a pair of dash mounted, "Ambient tweets" and perhaps some tweeters in the rear???
Got all that now Jimmy?
Swez
PS Have a refurb JBL DA-1002 that I may be willing to sell if the price is right. It's a very basic amp, but solid as a rock. See page 8 for the specs. This amp is under-rated at 12.9 volts for full power:
100 x 2 @ 4 ohms (RMS @ 12.9 VDC)
150 x 2 @ 2 ohms
300 x 1 bridged @ 4 ohms
HPF/LPF/FR: Selectable crossover feature (12dB/oct.)
LPF @ 80 Hz. and below
HPF @ 120 Hz. and above
Flat @ Full Range
RCA Input range: (RCA's) 0.250 - 4.0 VAC
High range input: Pigtail available for >4.0 VAC use
Max current draw: ~32A's at full power
Use it periodically to power 4 ohm subs and it works flawlessly. Have the original box, the manual is noted below and have the High Signal patch cable pigtail as well. If anyone wants a solid 2 channel for sub or full range applications, it's available at a fair price.
FYI: The outer case has a few scratches from the previous owner, but the guts are solid. Sorry, I don't have a digi-cam for pics. Any reasonable offers will be considered + S/H. (OK, Shameless plug and I admit it, but to the right person, it's a solid bargain)
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/DA1002%20om.pdf
SQLThump on 01/17/2008 18:45:23
Ok, guys, sorry about the delay, but I just had one hell of a crazy few weeks.....
The MTX subs are gone. The install in homeboy's Volvo went pretty smooth, except the part where I drilled two holes in the wrong place through the firewall, and had to drill a third to get the cable through, and a nasty gash in my thumb when wrenching on one of his seats. He thought I did a great job, so he threw me an extra $25 for my efforts....Bonus DUUUDDDE!!
After that install, wnet and picked up my components, and immidiately installed them. They are Infinity Reference 5000CS components, a 5.25 set rated 75RMS at 4 ohms. They do pretty good, but honestly, do not live up to my expectations. Maybe the old LCA amp has just about had it, I am still messing with it about 2 weeks later to optimize performance. I am using the -3 DB setting on the crossover, as the whole upper end sounds a bit overpowering at times. I also want need to check out a few more tweeter locations before I mount them in as well. They are currently sitting on top of the dash, facing in towards the other tweeter.
I also went and picked up some new subs, since I really have to sideline the bass engine project to deal with some other stuff. Basically I have neither the time or money to do this right now. We might have to come back to that in a few months.
The new subs are Kenwood 12's rated at 200 RMS apiece. @ 4 ohms. The model number is on the back of the subs, but I am a bit ill today, and it's freezing nuts so there is no way I'm unenclosing them just to look at the numbers today. I believe the model number is KFC-3010, but I really need to check. They are in an Audiobahn box, so I am pretty sure the airspace is mismatched, because this is a fairly large box. I will find out the neccassary airspace and add internal bracing to improve the match.
I really do not like these subs much at all. They sound decent, but I am sure the enclosure is off, because it doesn't have much tight punchy bass in the upper range, and when they want to go deep, the sound gets sloppier than my handwriting. On top of that I made an idiot mistake, and decided not to pay attention when wiring up the box one of the many times I pulled it out, and put my trunk'l lock pin through the surround. I patched it with hot glue, and then I am pretty sure this caused an inbalanced cone to cause a tinsel lead to come slightly loose under the impossible to remove dustcap. So it works like 60% of the time. Fun.
Basically through my expirence with numerous Kenwood products, they sound and perform great, but cheap manufacturing makes their products not last the test of time. For Christ sake, what really respectable brands even use foam surrounds for a car sub anymore?
One main issue I am having with the whole system is the proper use of my H/U Media Xpander function.Turned off, I can get the sound from the comps perfect, they sound very beautiful, but I cannot get the bass I need from this rig without the use of the MX. I probably need to mess with it some more, but for now, it sounds pretty good for the most part, I'll wait till some warmer weather comes about, and really set everything a' screaming.
The whole install is still a bit ghetto, I am going to wait it out to get a few more things finalized ( a new amp wiring kit, better speaker wire, and possibly waiting till I get the 8's and 15) before I recarpet the whole car, and possibly reupholster the interior to meed my pimpmobile dreams. Found the perfect material for my taste, and might have to bust it out. After that, all I will need is my "move b****" horn, and I'll be rollin' Tony Montana status. I might bust out some pics just to show the current situation.
Swez, I may have to consider the amp offer, but what is a reasonable offer? Like 50 or so? I generally prefer to buy used equipment from freinds than any other source.......
swez on 01/18/2008 05:53:55
Yes, this is one of the older amps made by JBL and very solid too. It's in great working order, 2 channels and will deliver > 150 RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms/ch. I have the manual for it as well. DA-1002 and if you want to review the amp specs, look here:
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/DA1002%20om.pdf
Still have the original box it came in and a copy of the manual too. Just hollar if you're interested. Shoot me an e-mail and I'll give you price details and such as needed. (Higher than $50.00, but under $100 + S/H) swezdp@yahoo.com
Swez
PS Would like to set you/others up with a very solid amp, However, I am NOT a "Pawn Shop" dealer. The stuff I sell is well tested, gently used, well below "Market Value" and in full working order. The price I have in mind is well below what I paid for it, but I don't compete with "Pawn Shops." Like most good e-bay dealers, I offer a quality product. If it does not work, (DOA is not a chance) the buyer gets a full refund, minus S/H fees.
PSS "Friends are friends.., but business is business".
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