so my brother got me some goodies for christmas...a pair of boston acoustic 6x9's and a infinity reference 1050w 10" sub...all was great until the ride home....the sub just cut off....when i got home i popped the trunk and left the music playin...i pushed gently on the sub and it proceeded to play until i let off of it...from the reviews ive read on this sub it is a common problem that the tinsil leads are quirky...due to the odd construction of the sub its difficult to remedy the problem due to lack of space to fit hands or tools..anyone ever repair one of these??
Replies (14)
swez on 12/25/2007 20:59:03
How much power was he trying to push this sub with and in what type/size enclosure?
This sounds like the tinsel lead may have separated at the coil junction and when you pushed on it manually, it reconnected for a while. If this sub has a warranty, send it back for a swap.
To repair it would be a very delicate operation that often does not hold up to abuse later. In most cases, the dust cap has to be removed, solder the leads back in place, epoxy the joint to the cone and then reglue the dust cap.
It's doable, but far from easy to get it back to like new condition.
Swez
PS This is common to many subs that are in too large a box and/or too much power or bass boost is used. "Overexcursion" is usually the root cause to such a failure.
SQLThump on 12/28/2007 05:19:39
What a drag dude.. under the cap tinsel leads suck. I had to do this to the old Boston sub more than a few times, and it was necer fun.
My advice for this dustcap....
Around the edge of the lettering, try to barely cut into the seam, it looks like the easiet, most raised place to do the separation with a razor. After barely breaking the seal, I found the best tool to use is a grocery store club card or something similar. Dont use your ID or anything important, because this will be pretty much toast after the dustcap removal. Basically, try to separate, not cut the sub, and get it separated.
From here, reconnect the leads, or go all out ghetto style, and bypass the terminals completely, remove the leads, and solder 12 GA straight to the voice coil. I inevitally after countless repairs had to do this.
Now, taker over to the H/T sub out or some source of signal, and make sure the job is done. feed it a fair amounf of power to get some excursion going on. Note how well your connections are made, and from here determine if one of your problems isn't just Infinity being cheapassed with the copper.
After this, it is now time to reattach the cap. This part really sucks, I used superglue because my voice coil had a nice lip over it to where adhesive isn't going into the the gap and going "KRAZY" on your copper. if your sub doesn't have that lip over the voice coil, ask Old Man Audio what to use, because I tried several and never found a glue I liked.
This is most like a temporary fix. I have only ever done this to one sub, and it broke again and again, and again, in different places, under the cap, outcise of the cone, all over the place. I eventually just soldered 12ga into the voice coil, but even that came unattached once on each side. Still was a fully functioning bass driver after each repair, and it worked for longer each repair. I found it to be the better option than replacing my sub when I don't have budget for it.
Have fun!!! or better yet, hope for a warranty replacement.
swez on 12/28/2007 07:14:36
Yes, this is a delicate operation and the right tools and lots of patience are needed to do a solid repair job. It's not a fun job at all and I don't enjoy doing this kind of work much either.
If the sub is under warranty, contact the seller and see what kind of arrangements are needed to get the sub swapped for a new one or a refurbished one.
Much of the time, it's how the sub is used, (or abused) the enclosure design is not well matched for the sub or the amp settings are not correct. (Too much bass boost)
Swez
trunkisloud on 12/28/2007 21:49:36
well this sub is 250wrms...i got it on a bazooka el1500 which pushes that or less at 4ohms..the tinsill design on this sub is like ive never seen..somethin infinity did i guess to make their bottom sub seem more attractive...but my boost is low...as is my gain...i can bend the terminal and it comes back on until a period of playing time and it cuts off..then have to bend it again...then it works fine..ill take some pics of the construction of the sub so you fellas can see what im talkin about...i think maybe i can fit a solder gun and a stick of solder in there to perm-a-fix the terminal to the coil leads....yep ill do that tomorrow....happy new year everyone...im startin early..like now.
swez on 12/29/2007 07:30:16
Interesting comments... this may just be a poor soldering connection at the terminal leads to this sub. Use 60/40 alloy, rosin core solder. (SN 60) The finer the solder wire, the easier it will be to resolder the terminal/tinsel lead well into place. A 30 watt soldering pencil should be adequate for this work.
NOTE: When soldering, always heat the lug until solder starts to melt. Then add just enough solder and heat to get a nice, shiney solder joint. If the joint is gray and very grainy, that's a cold solder joint and it usually won't last or make a good connection. It is always best to use a rosin core based solder. It has the flux already in it and will clean out all oxides before the solder wets properly and forms a nice, shiney fillet rather than a gray blob.
http://www.bcae1.com/solder.htm
Swez
louisypher on 12/29/2007 11:12:59
ouch bro, well if it comes down to it the offer still stands but hope it works out for you either way. i had one with the same prob and ended up junking it. better luck to you. and have a great new year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LFV
trunkisloud on 12/29/2007 19:51:18
success!!...i resoldered all points and am back in business....
louisypher on 12/29/2007 19:55:50
congratulations CLAP was it the terminal leads?tough operation?one more sub salvaged, good job!
trunkisloud on 12/29/2007 20:11:42
it wasnt as hard as i thought...took about 10 minutes
swez on 12/30/2007 14:23:49
Wannaful!!! Nice to hear you had success on this one. SMILE
This one is pretty easy to repair. When doing lead to coil wires, that's a much more challenging operation and the outcome is often a short-term fix at best.
Swez
SQLThump on 01/1/2008 05:25:05
Excellent, glad to see it wasn't under the cap. That is no fun at all, and you can run the risk of really messing up the sub. You may want to try legethining the tinsel lead to prevent reoccuring breakage, and preventing the connection under the dust cap from becoming the weakest link in the chain if the tinsel leads being too short is the real issue at hand. Also, if you make sure that the points of connection are as secure, but weak as possble it acts kind of like a ghetto little "excursion fuse." From expeirence, I would rather fix a lead outside the cone 50 times, then ever have to go under the cap once.
I used one of the 1042W infinity subs in the past, basically the older model of what you have. I saw how the sub was constructed, and was liking the looks of the plastic basket on the back of it, but was worried about it's strength. Are they still using that??
Also, how are the new Boston 6x9's workin out for you?
SQL
trunkisloud on 01/1/2008 13:17:01
yea the basket i believe still the same as before...some blue plastic in there...you can see the voice coil through it...the bostons are sounding nice...i need to score a small 4 channel to run those and the comps though cause i can tell they need some juice..
trunkisloud on 01/4/2008 22:00:36
k so i wont own another reference series sub..the stupid thang messed up on me again...im just gonna try to find another sub...hey lousypher holla at me
louisypher on 01/5/2008 00:21:40
gotcha man check your email.
Replies (14)
swez on 12/25/2007 20:59:03
How much power was he trying to push this sub with and in what type/size enclosure?
This sounds like the tinsel lead may have separated at the coil junction and when you pushed on it manually, it reconnected for a while. If this sub has a warranty, send it back for a swap.
To repair it would be a very delicate operation that often does not hold up to abuse later. In most cases, the dust cap has to be removed, solder the leads back in place, epoxy the joint to the cone and then reglue the dust cap.
It's doable, but far from easy to get it back to like new condition.
Swez
PS This is common to many subs that are in too large a box and/or too much power or bass boost is used. "Overexcursion" is usually the root cause to such a failure.
SQLThump on 12/28/2007 05:19:39
What a drag dude.. under the cap tinsel leads suck. I had to do this to the old Boston sub more than a few times, and it was necer fun.
My advice for this dustcap....
Around the edge of the lettering, try to barely cut into the seam, it looks like the easiet, most raised place to do the separation with a razor. After barely breaking the seal, I found the best tool to use is a grocery store club card or something similar. Dont use your ID or anything important, because this will be pretty much toast after the dustcap removal. Basically, try to separate, not cut the sub, and get it separated.
From here, reconnect the leads, or go all out ghetto style, and bypass the terminals completely, remove the leads, and solder 12 GA straight to the voice coil. I inevitally after countless repairs had to do this.
Now, taker over to the H/T sub out or some source of signal, and make sure the job is done. feed it a fair amounf of power to get some excursion going on. Note how well your connections are made, and from here determine if one of your problems isn't just Infinity being cheapassed with the copper.
After this, it is now time to reattach the cap. This part really sucks, I used superglue because my voice coil had a nice lip over it to where adhesive isn't going into the the gap and going "KRAZY" on your copper. if your sub doesn't have that lip over the voice coil, ask Old Man Audio what to use, because I tried several and never found a glue I liked.
This is most like a temporary fix. I have only ever done this to one sub, and it broke again and again, and again, in different places, under the cap, outcise of the cone, all over the place. I eventually just soldered 12ga into the voice coil, but even that came unattached once on each side. Still was a fully functioning bass driver after each repair, and it worked for longer each repair. I found it to be the better option than replacing my sub when I don't have budget for it.
Have fun!!! or better yet, hope for a warranty replacement.
swez on 12/28/2007 07:14:36
Yes, this is a delicate operation and the right tools and lots of patience are needed to do a solid repair job. It's not a fun job at all and I don't enjoy doing this kind of work much either.
If the sub is under warranty, contact the seller and see what kind of arrangements are needed to get the sub swapped for a new one or a refurbished one.
Much of the time, it's how the sub is used, (or abused) the enclosure design is not well matched for the sub or the amp settings are not correct. (Too much bass boost)
Swez
trunkisloud on 12/28/2007 21:49:36
well this sub is 250wrms...i got it on a bazooka el1500 which pushes that or less at 4ohms..the tinsill design on this sub is like ive never seen..somethin infinity did i guess to make their bottom sub seem more attractive...but my boost is low...as is my gain...i can bend the terminal and it comes back on until a period of playing time and it cuts off..then have to bend it again...then it works fine..ill take some pics of the construction of the sub so you fellas can see what im talkin about...i think maybe i can fit a solder gun and a stick of solder in there to perm-a-fix the terminal to the coil leads....yep ill do that tomorrow....happy new year everyone...im startin early..like now.
swez on 12/29/2007 07:30:16
Interesting comments... this may just be a poor soldering connection at the terminal leads to this sub. Use 60/40 alloy, rosin core solder. (SN 60) The finer the solder wire, the easier it will be to resolder the terminal/tinsel lead well into place. A 30 watt soldering pencil should be adequate for this work.
NOTE: When soldering, always heat the lug until solder starts to melt. Then add just enough solder and heat to get a nice, shiney solder joint. If the joint is gray and very grainy, that's a cold solder joint and it usually won't last or make a good connection. It is always best to use a rosin core based solder. It has the flux already in it and will clean out all oxides before the solder wets properly and forms a nice, shiney fillet rather than a gray blob.
http://www.bcae1.com/solder.htm
Swez
louisypher on 12/29/2007 11:12:59
ouch bro, well if it comes down to it the offer still stands but hope it works out for you either way. i had one with the same prob and ended up junking it. better luck to you. and have a great new year!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
LFV
trunkisloud on 12/29/2007 19:51:18
success!!...i resoldered all points and am back in business....
louisypher on 12/29/2007 19:55:50
congratulations CLAP was it the terminal leads?tough operation?one more sub salvaged, good job!
trunkisloud on 12/29/2007 20:11:42
it wasnt as hard as i thought...took about 10 minutes
swez on 12/30/2007 14:23:49
Wannaful!!! Nice to hear you had success on this one. SMILE
This one is pretty easy to repair. When doing lead to coil wires, that's a much more challenging operation and the outcome is often a short-term fix at best.
Swez
SQLThump on 01/1/2008 05:25:05
Excellent, glad to see it wasn't under the cap. That is no fun at all, and you can run the risk of really messing up the sub. You may want to try legethining the tinsel lead to prevent reoccuring breakage, and preventing the connection under the dust cap from becoming the weakest link in the chain if the tinsel leads being too short is the real issue at hand. Also, if you make sure that the points of connection are as secure, but weak as possble it acts kind of like a ghetto little "excursion fuse." From expeirence, I would rather fix a lead outside the cone 50 times, then ever have to go under the cap once.
I used one of the 1042W infinity subs in the past, basically the older model of what you have. I saw how the sub was constructed, and was liking the looks of the plastic basket on the back of it, but was worried about it's strength. Are they still using that??
Also, how are the new Boston 6x9's workin out for you?
SQL
trunkisloud on 01/1/2008 13:17:01
yea the basket i believe still the same as before...some blue plastic in there...you can see the voice coil through it...the bostons are sounding nice...i need to score a small 4 channel to run those and the comps though cause i can tell they need some juice..
trunkisloud on 01/4/2008 22:00:36
k so i wont own another reference series sub..the stupid thang messed up on me again...im just gonna try to find another sub...hey lousypher holla at me
louisypher on 01/5/2008 00:21:40
gotcha man check your email.
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