Does anyone know where and how easy it is to get your alternator rewound. And whether this works or not to gain amps...etc...any details are appreciated.
Replies (6)
swez on 11/20/2007 19:05:37
That's best left to a Pro.
The trick is getting enough amperage at low RPM's to keep your lights from dimming at low engine speeds. This often means a case that fits your factory mounts, a strong field coil, stator and voltage regulator that can deliver enough power at low RPM to power the vehicle's needs and your add ons. (Figure the car needs about 45-50 A's to operate all essential systems in the car) The rest is reserve power for your amps and any other aftermarket add ons used. (Fog/driving lamps etc.)
Ideally, that would be about 120 -130A's at full output and say 80A's at idle. One can always change the pulley to a smaller diameter one for a higher spin rate at low engine RPM's. It's doable, but some careful research and planning are needed in the process.
Comments?
Swez
T-RAY on 11/20/2007 21:30:55
Also is not good for your altenator as it is designed for only operating at a certain amperage!! That's the reason they make high performance alt's! Doing that to a stock altenator drastically reduces the life.
If an altenator is rated for say 100 amps, that's peak power like a speaker. If you run it at peak power, it'll will burn out wicked fast! I've been through this discussion with a few auto shop's and that's what they all told me! But,I believe, they also told me, an altenator of 90 amps, is capable of running a system of up to 4000 watts, but you would still have light dimmage and you won't get the full performance of your equipment but it won't cut out that much either! Thus enter the High Performance altenator! CLAP
I went through a few charging problems in my old car and had asked the same question when I had my dimmage problems and that was the answer I got! Which is why I went with another battery! Can't go wrong with another batt!!
P.S. I don't know if you were asking for it about your specific car on your profile, but being a newer car and a Honda at that, you really shouldn't need to rewind it! It will probably be pretty expensive to replace! What is it rated at if this question is for something you were planning to do to it?
cplkittle on 11/20/2007 23:57:21
There is a difference between rewinding an alternator and rebuilding one. Be careful what you ask for, and educate yourself on this topic before taking your alternator to someone to rewind it.
This is a good article.. a bit pessimistic, but informative:
http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/alt_inf2.shtml
Here is a forum discussion:
http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/discus.pl?pg=prev&topic=4&page=38385
And finally, I found a good article on the differences between a rewind and a rebuild.. A must read for everyone:
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6255&mode=threaded
swez on 11/21/2007 06:29:35
That's a great set of information to obtain optimal performance in larger Car Audio systems.
When we look at SPL Comp systems, they always use a combination of bank of dedicated ALT's, several storage batteries and a bank of Caps to insure the audio system is getting what it needs, separate from the stock system used as OEM designs dictate. (Caps are great for transient or instantanous peaks we see in car audio, but they need support from outboard BAT's... slower transient responses, and a dedicated ALT for optimal performance)
There is so much detail in each of these articles, it will go well over the heads of even a seasoned Audio Intaller's level of experience. Here, they advocate a considerable margin of extra power to guarantee there will be sufficient power under all conditions. They are right, but how many can really afford such exotic mods?
Thanks for throwing a big monkey wrench into the drive train! But as they all note, there are no quick/cheap fixes for Comp Levels SPL guys.
For the average SQL install, there are cheaper ways to consider. It all depends on how hard we push a given system and under what conditions.
Swell FYI's,
Swez
gsandha99 on 11/21/2007 11:23:40
Thanks for the info guys,
I recently bought a redtop which i thought would completely solve my dimming problems and then some. But, alas, the dimming is still there.
I have upgraded the ground wires in the 'Big 2'
I have made sure all the grounds for the system are secure and well done....
Im not sure what else to do! So, that is why the alternator popped up as the next step. Unless there is something im missing.
I believe my OEM amp is rated at 95A. Advice?
swez on 11/21/2007 12:23:26
A good battery can help, but when we have a small ALT, (75 A's at full output) and a power hungry sub amp to be fed, the numbers don't add up well and the only real solution left, is a H.O. ALT.
The battery can help make up some of the current demanded by the amp, but only for so long. At some point, the ALT is maxed out and the battery is also being drained. Just watch the headlights... this is like a poor mans power meter. As bass hits come, the lights dim and that tells us our electrical system is just not keeping up. As power is diverted to the sub amp, other electrical devices are getting what's left. That's why the lights dim.
Finally, most newer cars will run OK until the supply voltage from the electrical system falls below ~10.5 volts. Below that line, things begin to get strained and the car will often stall out and need a jump. Before this happens, we would be wise to prevent that by shutting off the audio system for a time and drive the car around awhile to charge the battery back up to normal levels. You'd be surprised how much current flow this amp needs at full power. The longer we bang it, the deeper we discharge the battery and it needs time to recover w/o the added load.
Swez
Replies (6)
swez on 11/20/2007 19:05:37
That's best left to a Pro.
The trick is getting enough amperage at low RPM's to keep your lights from dimming at low engine speeds. This often means a case that fits your factory mounts, a strong field coil, stator and voltage regulator that can deliver enough power at low RPM to power the vehicle's needs and your add ons. (Figure the car needs about 45-50 A's to operate all essential systems in the car) The rest is reserve power for your amps and any other aftermarket add ons used. (Fog/driving lamps etc.)
Ideally, that would be about 120 -130A's at full output and say 80A's at idle. One can always change the pulley to a smaller diameter one for a higher spin rate at low engine RPM's. It's doable, but some careful research and planning are needed in the process.
Comments?
Swez
T-RAY on 11/20/2007 21:30:55
Also is not good for your altenator as it is designed for only operating at a certain amperage!! That's the reason they make high performance alt's! Doing that to a stock altenator drastically reduces the life.
If an altenator is rated for say 100 amps, that's peak power like a speaker. If you run it at peak power, it'll will burn out wicked fast! I've been through this discussion with a few auto shop's and that's what they all told me! But,I believe, they also told me, an altenator of 90 amps, is capable of running a system of up to 4000 watts, but you would still have light dimmage and you won't get the full performance of your equipment but it won't cut out that much either! Thus enter the High Performance altenator! CLAP
I went through a few charging problems in my old car and had asked the same question when I had my dimmage problems and that was the answer I got! Which is why I went with another battery! Can't go wrong with another batt!!
P.S. I don't know if you were asking for it about your specific car on your profile, but being a newer car and a Honda at that, you really shouldn't need to rewind it! It will probably be pretty expensive to replace! What is it rated at if this question is for something you were planning to do to it?
cplkittle on 11/20/2007 23:57:21
There is a difference between rewinding an alternator and rebuilding one. Be careful what you ask for, and educate yourself on this topic before taking your alternator to someone to rewind it.
This is a good article.. a bit pessimistic, but informative:
http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/alt_inf2.shtml
Here is a forum discussion:
http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/discus.pl?pg=prev&topic=4&page=38385
And finally, I found a good article on the differences between a rewind and a rebuild.. A must read for everyone:
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6255&mode=threaded
swez on 11/21/2007 06:29:35
That's a great set of information to obtain optimal performance in larger Car Audio systems.
When we look at SPL Comp systems, they always use a combination of bank of dedicated ALT's, several storage batteries and a bank of Caps to insure the audio system is getting what it needs, separate from the stock system used as OEM designs dictate. (Caps are great for transient or instantanous peaks we see in car audio, but they need support from outboard BAT's... slower transient responses, and a dedicated ALT for optimal performance)
There is so much detail in each of these articles, it will go well over the heads of even a seasoned Audio Intaller's level of experience. Here, they advocate a considerable margin of extra power to guarantee there will be sufficient power under all conditions. They are right, but how many can really afford such exotic mods?
Thanks for throwing a big monkey wrench into the drive train! But as they all note, there are no quick/cheap fixes for Comp Levels SPL guys.
For the average SQL install, there are cheaper ways to consider. It all depends on how hard we push a given system and under what conditions.
Swell FYI's,
Swez
gsandha99 on 11/21/2007 11:23:40
Thanks for the info guys,
I recently bought a redtop which i thought would completely solve my dimming problems and then some. But, alas, the dimming is still there.
I have upgraded the ground wires in the 'Big 2'
I have made sure all the grounds for the system are secure and well done....
Im not sure what else to do! So, that is why the alternator popped up as the next step. Unless there is something im missing.
I believe my OEM amp is rated at 95A. Advice?
swez on 11/21/2007 12:23:26
A good battery can help, but when we have a small ALT, (75 A's at full output) and a power hungry sub amp to be fed, the numbers don't add up well and the only real solution left, is a H.O. ALT.
The battery can help make up some of the current demanded by the amp, but only for so long. At some point, the ALT is maxed out and the battery is also being drained. Just watch the headlights... this is like a poor mans power meter. As bass hits come, the lights dim and that tells us our electrical system is just not keeping up. As power is diverted to the sub amp, other electrical devices are getting what's left. That's why the lights dim.
Finally, most newer cars will run OK until the supply voltage from the electrical system falls below ~10.5 volts. Below that line, things begin to get strained and the car will often stall out and need a jump. Before this happens, we would be wise to prevent that by shutting off the audio system for a time and drive the car around awhile to charge the battery back up to normal levels. You'd be surprised how much current flow this amp needs at full power. The longer we bang it, the deeper we discharge the battery and it needs time to recover w/o the added load.
Swez
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