i just got my amp fixed after it had bad relay's. i took my old amp out that worked fine and put my new one back in. when i turn the key on the amp makes a high pitched buzzing noise. not coming through the speakers but the amp. it does weather the car is on or off. i've grounded it a few different places and still does same thing. any one here bout this?
Replies (4)
SQLThump on 10/16/2007 17:30:17
My guess is that something in the repair job went wrong, and needs to be looked at. Does your amp have any sort of cooling fans built into it? Possibly a peice of debris could have entered this fan, and from there stuck to something and is making the buzzing.
Another possiblity is that an improper relay used in the repair is causing this noise. Taking the cover off your amp and looking for anything blatantly wrong with it would be a good start.
It would help if you could include the model numbers of all the parts in your system. You have been back several times, and seem to be having repeated problems with your amps. Also, if you can tell us why your amp malfunctioned, and required repair, that would also be very helpful.
I may be just throwing this out, but again, you seem to be having chronic problems with your equipment. When stuff like this happens, it is good to go over the whole installation and other parts of the electrical system, and see if there is something happening before signal or power is even reaching the amp.
liquorbucket on 10/16/2007 22:52:28
i have a 750.1 kicker amp, 12" kicker cvr 2 ohm sub, 6800 pioneer hu. i had a ma 1000w amp and it burn up too. covered under warranty it's getting fixed. i use a 250 profile amp i believe and it works fine. i've checked everything bout 10 times all teh way from battery, hu,amp, sub. everything that has to do with my system.
i've had my brother check it out and he said that everything looks okay. i have it in a 2000 cavalier and i have it grounded under the back seat paint grinded to bare metal and bolted down and another bolt along side holding it down just to make sure of a better ground.
i was told to try grounding my hu and amp to same place and still didn't help. my kicker first went and it worked fine for a week or so then one day it all of a sudden stoped the green light still on but no sound. it had cracks in solder joints and output relay. the second one just smoked. so yes i have been having major problems with my amps and i've had numerous ppl look and they don't see a thing wrong and i'm wasting alot of money on these amps. the repair place said that the buzz was just the transformers and they probably can't fix that but it won't hurt anything. then it smoked and they said it shouldn't work if it popped and smoked like it did. well it worked for a while longer and they said go ahead and use it and they'll fix it under warranty. so i'm lost idk what to do. i can get pictures sometime soon of all my connections if that could help any cause i could have something wrong and just don't know. thanks i appriciate your guys' time and effort to solve my problems. you guys seem to help out alot.
cplkittle on 10/17/2007 02:20:40
If the sound is coming from inside the amplifier and you can feel the slight vibration if you put your hand on the amplifier, it is a relay clicking on and off really fast. This is caused by a signal that is not quite strong enough to trigger the relay and the switch in the relay is just bouncing back and forth.
Try disconnecting the remote lead and see if it stops.
If it does stop, the remote wire has a weak signal all of the time and the problem is in the head unit. In this case, you will need to connect the remote wire to the red (switched power) wire behind the head unit. This should fix the problem.
If it does not fix the problem, try disconnecting everything except the power and ground. If it stops then, start connecting the RCAs and the speakers back up to the amp and tell us what causes it to start again.
These are the simple solutions. If you are having that many problems, you need to check the voltage at the amplifier with the car running. It should be somewhere around 13-14 volts. If it is below 12 volts, there is a problem getting power to the amp and the amps will continue to give you problems. Some reasons why the voltage is below 12 volts could be:
bad battery
bad alternator
alternator is too weak for electrical demands placed on it
bad battery cable connections
power wire to the amp is too small
ground wire is smaller than power wire
swez on 10/17/2007 04:46:13
Buzzing noise could be the relay as Kit mentioned. A quick test is like he said, and maybe use a jumper between the amp's +terminal and remote lead to test that. If the buzzing stops and amp works fine, Kit's solution is right on target. (A weak relay voltage or contaminated contacts could cause this)
Torroid wound transformers in the amp are usually very reliable and are often hot glued to the PC board too. They don't make too much noise if well anchored.
If you wanted to do more in depth diagnosis, use a small diameter piece of rubber/plastic tubing as a stethoscope. Place the tube near one ear and used the other end to probe the boad for the source of the noise. (Have to remove the outer cover) Do this with the amp power lead disconnected, remove cover and then power up the amp and probe the board for the noise source.
Swez
Replies (4)
SQLThump on 10/16/2007 17:30:17
My guess is that something in the repair job went wrong, and needs to be looked at. Does your amp have any sort of cooling fans built into it? Possibly a peice of debris could have entered this fan, and from there stuck to something and is making the buzzing.
Another possiblity is that an improper relay used in the repair is causing this noise. Taking the cover off your amp and looking for anything blatantly wrong with it would be a good start.
It would help if you could include the model numbers of all the parts in your system. You have been back several times, and seem to be having repeated problems with your amps. Also, if you can tell us why your amp malfunctioned, and required repair, that would also be very helpful.
I may be just throwing this out, but again, you seem to be having chronic problems with your equipment. When stuff like this happens, it is good to go over the whole installation and other parts of the electrical system, and see if there is something happening before signal or power is even reaching the amp.
liquorbucket on 10/16/2007 22:52:28
i have a 750.1 kicker amp, 12" kicker cvr 2 ohm sub, 6800 pioneer hu. i had a ma 1000w amp and it burn up too. covered under warranty it's getting fixed. i use a 250 profile amp i believe and it works fine. i've checked everything bout 10 times all teh way from battery, hu,amp, sub. everything that has to do with my system.
i've had my brother check it out and he said that everything looks okay. i have it in a 2000 cavalier and i have it grounded under the back seat paint grinded to bare metal and bolted down and another bolt along side holding it down just to make sure of a better ground.
i was told to try grounding my hu and amp to same place and still didn't help. my kicker first went and it worked fine for a week or so then one day it all of a sudden stoped the green light still on but no sound. it had cracks in solder joints and output relay. the second one just smoked. so yes i have been having major problems with my amps and i've had numerous ppl look and they don't see a thing wrong and i'm wasting alot of money on these amps. the repair place said that the buzz was just the transformers and they probably can't fix that but it won't hurt anything. then it smoked and they said it shouldn't work if it popped and smoked like it did. well it worked for a while longer and they said go ahead and use it and they'll fix it under warranty. so i'm lost idk what to do. i can get pictures sometime soon of all my connections if that could help any cause i could have something wrong and just don't know. thanks i appriciate your guys' time and effort to solve my problems. you guys seem to help out alot.
cplkittle on 10/17/2007 02:20:40
If the sound is coming from inside the amplifier and you can feel the slight vibration if you put your hand on the amplifier, it is a relay clicking on and off really fast. This is caused by a signal that is not quite strong enough to trigger the relay and the switch in the relay is just bouncing back and forth.
Try disconnecting the remote lead and see if it stops.
If it does stop, the remote wire has a weak signal all of the time and the problem is in the head unit. In this case, you will need to connect the remote wire to the red (switched power) wire behind the head unit. This should fix the problem.
If it does not fix the problem, try disconnecting everything except the power and ground. If it stops then, start connecting the RCAs and the speakers back up to the amp and tell us what causes it to start again.
These are the simple solutions. If you are having that many problems, you need to check the voltage at the amplifier with the car running. It should be somewhere around 13-14 volts. If it is below 12 volts, there is a problem getting power to the amp and the amps will continue to give you problems. Some reasons why the voltage is below 12 volts could be:
bad battery
bad alternator
alternator is too weak for electrical demands placed on it
bad battery cable connections
power wire to the amp is too small
ground wire is smaller than power wire
swez on 10/17/2007 04:46:13
Buzzing noise could be the relay as Kit mentioned. A quick test is like he said, and maybe use a jumper between the amp's +terminal and remote lead to test that. If the buzzing stops and amp works fine, Kit's solution is right on target. (A weak relay voltage or contaminated contacts could cause this)
Torroid wound transformers in the amp are usually very reliable and are often hot glued to the PC board too. They don't make too much noise if well anchored.
If you wanted to do more in depth diagnosis, use a small diameter piece of rubber/plastic tubing as a stethoscope. Place the tube near one ear and used the other end to probe the boad for the source of the noise. (Have to remove the outer cover) Do this with the amp power lead disconnected, remove cover and then power up the amp and probe the board for the noise source.
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
