Hey guys, It's been a long summer and I am finally ready to finish the enclosure I started in May for my 15" Mag D2. I originally had a carpenter buddy assist me with this project, however I will be finishing this one up with my pops. At this point I have the bottom base, sides and internal bracing all glued screwed and siliconed. The baffle is cut and the T-Nuts are are in place ready to accept the sub. Oh, the wire terminal is locked into place as well.
.http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/DSCN0302.jpg
I have a few questions regarding the final assembly of the front baffle and top board. When dry fitting the front baffle I am finding areas where the bottom board meets the bottom of the baffle leaving air gaps of up to 1/16th or so of an inch! I bought GE Silicone II 100% silicone sealant with bioSeal hoping this could be used with the glue to fill any voids for a perect seal. If anybody can suggest a better product to use for this purpose, please let me know.
What is the most effective product to use under the gasket around the sub to create a seal when the sub is mounted for good? I also bought LOCTITE threadlocker for the final mount of the sub to eliminate any screws loosening to vibrations.
Will it be acceptable to use 12awg Knu speaker wire my sub and JL 1000/1? Am I forgetting anything? You guys rule, glad to be back in the forum!
I will post detailed pics as the final staged come together.
Demetrios
Replies (5)
ttocs on 09/10/2007 17:57:40
best gasket material? a carpeted or covered box.
I don't know if i would be throwing the red lock tite up there, maybe the blue but you MAY want to take the sub out again, and leave teh threaded inserts in the box.......
To seal gap in the box the best thing to use would be alittle fiberglass resin and a little material.
swez on 09/10/2007 19:40:12
Hey Demetman,
If you can take a few more pics and show where the gaposis issues are, am sure we have a few ideas.
I often use a belt sander and gather up some of the sawdust and add some wood glue/water, (Home made puddy) to fill in the gaps. (Externally) Then, sand them flush after the glue dries for a very good fit and look.
Also, that silicone mentioned is fine. A 1/8" - 1/4" bead on all internal joints will do the job nice. Just allow it to cure overnight.
Carpeting on the box makes a good gasket/seal, as does cork or foam tape. (1/4" thick is plenty)
Loctite the threads, not recommended. A dab of silicone or wood glue on the threaded screws/bolts is fine. They won't come loose with either and good nuff.
Welcome back my friend! CLAP
Swez
demetman on 09/10/2007 22:31:55
I'll take a few detailed pics tomorrow with baffle and top piece dry fitted to show gap issues. I haven't looked at the box in months so a good evaluation is in line. I'll bag the Loctite and I do plan on carpeting the enclosure after completion. I Have used fiberglass with cloth and hardener in small quantities to fix dings in my surfboard in the past. I'll let you guys be the judge of best plan of attack to finish this box. Thanks
Demetrios
swez on 09/11/2007 07:01:38
Glassing is an option, but it's messy and a lot of labor too. To keep things simple and still remain effective, a good wood puddy mixture is a good option and easily tooled with a sander and perhaps a router.
Yes, a few more detailed pics would help a lot. Knowing how the panels dry fit together now, can help us guide you to a celan job with minimal effort.
Swez
PS Are you back to the "fall schedule" at work yet? Whew... a long summer is almost over huh?
demetman on 09/11/2007 21:37:47
You know it Swez, "fall schedule" in full effect as of this past Monday. Sept 30th is the start of my "winter schedule" which consists of a Fri and Sat work week! You can bet I am looking foreward to that my friend.
Well I completed the final construction of the enclosure today with relative ease. When I dry fitted the baffle with all screw there was virtually no gaps. The small gaps that I had Were filled with Silicone, glue and screwed every 3"-4". The end result was a very solid and MESSY construction. After the screws were in I siliconed interior and exterior seams for some more overkill.
The SI 15" Mag will be mounted tomorrow and the break in stage begins. I will be usingKnuconceptz 12awg speaker wire to wire sub and amp . I plan on breaking the sub in all weekend to ensure the airspace is proper and the sub is happy in it's new home. Here are a few pics.
ucket">
More tomorrow
Demetrios
.http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/DSCN0302.jpg
I have a few questions regarding the final assembly of the front baffle and top board. When dry fitting the front baffle I am finding areas where the bottom board meets the bottom of the baffle leaving air gaps of up to 1/16th or so of an inch! I bought GE Silicone II 100% silicone sealant with bioSeal hoping this could be used with the glue to fill any voids for a perect seal. If anybody can suggest a better product to use for this purpose, please let me know.
What is the most effective product to use under the gasket around the sub to create a seal when the sub is mounted for good? I also bought LOCTITE threadlocker for the final mount of the sub to eliminate any screws loosening to vibrations.
Will it be acceptable to use 12awg Knu speaker wire my sub and JL 1000/1? Am I forgetting anything? You guys rule, glad to be back in the forum!
I will post detailed pics as the final staged come together.
Demetrios
Replies (5)
ttocs on 09/10/2007 17:57:40
best gasket material? a carpeted or covered box.
I don't know if i would be throwing the red lock tite up there, maybe the blue but you MAY want to take the sub out again, and leave teh threaded inserts in the box.......
To seal gap in the box the best thing to use would be alittle fiberglass resin and a little material.
swez on 09/10/2007 19:40:12
Hey Demetman,
If you can take a few more pics and show where the gaposis issues are, am sure we have a few ideas.
I often use a belt sander and gather up some of the sawdust and add some wood glue/water, (Home made puddy) to fill in the gaps. (Externally) Then, sand them flush after the glue dries for a very good fit and look.
Also, that silicone mentioned is fine. A 1/8" - 1/4" bead on all internal joints will do the job nice. Just allow it to cure overnight.
Carpeting on the box makes a good gasket/seal, as does cork or foam tape. (1/4" thick is plenty)
Loctite the threads, not recommended. A dab of silicone or wood glue on the threaded screws/bolts is fine. They won't come loose with either and good nuff.
Welcome back my friend! CLAP
Swez
demetman on 09/10/2007 22:31:55
I'll take a few detailed pics tomorrow with baffle and top piece dry fitted to show gap issues. I haven't looked at the box in months so a good evaluation is in line. I'll bag the Loctite and I do plan on carpeting the enclosure after completion. I Have used fiberglass with cloth and hardener in small quantities to fix dings in my surfboard in the past. I'll let you guys be the judge of best plan of attack to finish this box. Thanks
Demetrios
swez on 09/11/2007 07:01:38
Glassing is an option, but it's messy and a lot of labor too. To keep things simple and still remain effective, a good wood puddy mixture is a good option and easily tooled with a sander and perhaps a router.
Yes, a few more detailed pics would help a lot. Knowing how the panels dry fit together now, can help us guide you to a celan job with minimal effort.
Swez
PS Are you back to the "fall schedule" at work yet? Whew... a long summer is almost over huh?
demetman on 09/11/2007 21:37:47
You know it Swez, "fall schedule" in full effect as of this past Monday. Sept 30th is the start of my "winter schedule" which consists of a Fri and Sat work week! You can bet I am looking foreward to that my friend.
Well I completed the final construction of the enclosure today with relative ease. When I dry fitted the baffle with all screw there was virtually no gaps. The small gaps that I had Were filled with Silicone, glue and screwed every 3"-4". The end result was a very solid and MESSY construction. After the screws were in I siliconed interior and exterior seams for some more overkill.
The SI 15" Mag will be mounted tomorrow and the break in stage begins. I will be usingKnuconceptz 12awg speaker wire to wire sub and amp . I plan on breaking the sub in all weekend to ensure the airspace is proper and the sub is happy in it's new home. Here are a few pics.
ucket">More tomorrow
Demetrios
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