i have two jlw7 10 inch subs and two alpine pdx 1.1000 and plan on getting another amp for mids and highs what size of alternator do you think i would need. or any tips??? also i plan on using 0 gauge wire split at two 4 gauge wires. THINK
Replies (4)
swez on 09/1/2007 23:22:55
If you run say an Alpine PDX-4.100 for your mid/highs, that's a pretty hefty current load.
The PDX-1.1000's are 80A's per each and the 4.100 is 60A's. That 220 just to keep the amplifiers happy. Looks like you'll be wanting 275 - 300 amperes of power for a system like this.
Yes, a 250A version would do if you used a dedicated battery on the sub amps. (Possible 2 BATs here, one per amp) as current buffers.
It all depends on how hard you like to push your gear.
Swez
PS Welcome to CK!
MrBrownstone on 09/14/2007 14:43:02
Swez is spot on about '...it depends on how hard you like to push your gear...' If you don't push all amps to capacity all the time, you won't need major upgrades to Alt & Battery. They are the easiest changes and can be done after everything is installed....should you need them.
I am a LOT concerned about 1kW for each 10" speaker. With that much power, I'd think you'll be disappointed in their performance due to lack of surface area. For high DB applications, there's just no substitute for cone area. 2-15s would be better. Please consider, if you haven't already installed everything, upgrading the woofers and detail the type of enclosure prior to going with the system. It'll save you money and from blowing equipment due to stress.
Those fuses are safeguards. If you install a 150A circuit breaker OR ANL (melt away) fuse, and if you don't blow a 150A fuse, you shouldn't need an upgraded alternator, etc.
An additional battery will help you with longer playing times when the vehicle is off, but will suck 10A available current just from being installed. Add'l batteries are for competitions where you have massive systems...and this isn't really that large. Multiple batteries are for situations where you know that even with the holy grail of alternators, you're still going to exceed curren maximums...and really, you're running on batteries anyway. (separate topic).
Install the system with 2ga or larger cable, and run it for a while. If upon hammering the system you don't blow a 150 circuit breaker (or melt away fuse), you should be fine. If you blow that fuse, you'll need substantial upgrades. I highly doubt it. Your main concern is the equipment of choice getting burnt to a crisp. Yes, woofers may be rated to a Bazillion watts, but if you run a lawnmower at highway speeds, well, you get the idea.
It's all about use and not about potential. 2kW class D isn't as much of a load as it would appear. I ran 2kW before, and it wasn't about the load, it was about the use. PLEASE consider the woofers and enclosure first. You'll thank me (and Ben Franklin) later.
MrBrownstone on 09/14/2007 14:46:24
PS keep in mind, a 100A fuse can allow 200A current through prior to melting or tripping a circuit breaker. Granted, the time you can exceed that tolerance is ~1/8 to 1/4 second...but most of the time, you are not putting out maximum load anyway--even at full capacity.
150A will allow 300A...which might actually be good enough. I ran 2 PHD2s (4kW) on a 200A fuse...only melted it when I forgot to 'un-burp' it :-)
swez on 09/15/2007 04:58:01
The JL 10W7's are 3 ohm coils and the Alpine PDX-1.1000 amps can deliver 1000 watts RMS at 2-4 ohm loads.
To protect your subs from too much power, (>750 RMS.sub) careful gain settings for these amps are needed. The target output voltage using a OdBV test tone, (50 Hz.) would be 45-47 volts AC from each amp to each sub. (More details on this step can be requested) You'll need an AC voltage meter to do this properly.
Also, since these amps are not going to be running at 1000 watts, the power consumption will be less from the electrical system. Test Tones are the most demanding stress test an amp and sub should ever see in normal use. (If one fries a JL sub coil, they will know it's abuse and that voids the warranty) So, be mindful on the system setup as you get there.
FYI: Alpine suggests a #4 gage power line to each amp and and 80A fuse for each. To trip an 80A fuse or breaker, the sustained current draw to trip one is substantial. How long it takes to trip an 80A fuse/Breaker is determined by current flow and time. If these fuses/breakers are tripping frequently, the subs are in danger of out of warranty damages.
Swez
Replies (4)
swez on 09/1/2007 23:22:55
If you run say an Alpine PDX-4.100 for your mid/highs, that's a pretty hefty current load.
The PDX-1.1000's are 80A's per each and the 4.100 is 60A's. That 220 just to keep the amplifiers happy. Looks like you'll be wanting 275 - 300 amperes of power for a system like this.
Yes, a 250A version would do if you used a dedicated battery on the sub amps. (Possible 2 BATs here, one per amp) as current buffers.
It all depends on how hard you like to push your gear.
Swez
PS Welcome to CK!
MrBrownstone on 09/14/2007 14:43:02
Swez is spot on about '...it depends on how hard you like to push your gear...' If you don't push all amps to capacity all the time, you won't need major upgrades to Alt & Battery. They are the easiest changes and can be done after everything is installed....should you need them.
I am a LOT concerned about 1kW for each 10" speaker. With that much power, I'd think you'll be disappointed in their performance due to lack of surface area. For high DB applications, there's just no substitute for cone area. 2-15s would be better. Please consider, if you haven't already installed everything, upgrading the woofers and detail the type of enclosure prior to going with the system. It'll save you money and from blowing equipment due to stress.
Those fuses are safeguards. If you install a 150A circuit breaker OR ANL (melt away) fuse, and if you don't blow a 150A fuse, you shouldn't need an upgraded alternator, etc.
An additional battery will help you with longer playing times when the vehicle is off, but will suck 10A available current just from being installed. Add'l batteries are for competitions where you have massive systems...and this isn't really that large. Multiple batteries are for situations where you know that even with the holy grail of alternators, you're still going to exceed curren maximums...and really, you're running on batteries anyway. (separate topic).
Install the system with 2ga or larger cable, and run it for a while. If upon hammering the system you don't blow a 150 circuit breaker (or melt away fuse), you should be fine. If you blow that fuse, you'll need substantial upgrades. I highly doubt it. Your main concern is the equipment of choice getting burnt to a crisp. Yes, woofers may be rated to a Bazillion watts, but if you run a lawnmower at highway speeds, well, you get the idea.
It's all about use and not about potential. 2kW class D isn't as much of a load as it would appear. I ran 2kW before, and it wasn't about the load, it was about the use. PLEASE consider the woofers and enclosure first. You'll thank me (and Ben Franklin) later.
MrBrownstone on 09/14/2007 14:46:24
PS keep in mind, a 100A fuse can allow 200A current through prior to melting or tripping a circuit breaker. Granted, the time you can exceed that tolerance is ~1/8 to 1/4 second...but most of the time, you are not putting out maximum load anyway--even at full capacity.
150A will allow 300A...which might actually be good enough. I ran 2 PHD2s (4kW) on a 200A fuse...only melted it when I forgot to 'un-burp' it :-)
swez on 09/15/2007 04:58:01
The JL 10W7's are 3 ohm coils and the Alpine PDX-1.1000 amps can deliver 1000 watts RMS at 2-4 ohm loads.
To protect your subs from too much power, (>750 RMS.sub) careful gain settings for these amps are needed. The target output voltage using a OdBV test tone, (50 Hz.) would be 45-47 volts AC from each amp to each sub. (More details on this step can be requested) You'll need an AC voltage meter to do this properly.
Also, since these amps are not going to be running at 1000 watts, the power consumption will be less from the electrical system. Test Tones are the most demanding stress test an amp and sub should ever see in normal use. (If one fries a JL sub coil, they will know it's abuse and that voids the warranty) So, be mindful on the system setup as you get there.
FYI: Alpine suggests a #4 gage power line to each amp and and 80A fuse for each. To trip an 80A fuse or breaker, the sustained current draw to trip one is substantial. How long it takes to trip an 80A fuse/Breaker is determined by current flow and time. If these fuses/breakers are tripping frequently, the subs are in danger of out of warranty damages.
Swez
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