After recently installed my sub I have been enjoying new depth to my music while cruising to work.
I have however,, encountered a problem twice where after a track change the sub won't kick in again. Usually after about 10-15 minutes.
I have then stopped the car and checked the boot, the amp is still on though the sub is not working.
I've found that if I turn the ignition off and on again it all returns to normal.
I thought today that perhaps I had the settings to high on the sub amp. I lowered hem and made it 20 minutes without incident.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
GRIN
Gene
Replies (8)
trunkisloud on 08/8/2007 23:05:56
maybe overheating of the amp...maybe your sub is wired wrong....how do you have it wired?? you have the alpine amp correct?....if so you should have both coils of the sub going to the amp wired parallel to see 2 ohms.
vtcommodore on 08/8/2007 23:09:02
Yep, it's the m450
I'm sure it's wired in parallel, and when I checked the amp was cool.
Strange.
Could it be a problem with the remote wire? I have it wired into the remote of my mrv-f340.
trunkisloud on 08/8/2007 23:23:02
i had a similar problem once..couldnt figure it out..i tore everything apart and checked the wires....turns out the in-line fuse for the amp power was loose..the fuse block was a little old so i bent the tabs on it to make a tighter fit and that fixed it .....take a look at that first and if its good then try running a seperate remote for the sub amp.
swez on 08/9/2007 01:01:51
If the remote wire lost it's power, the amp would shut off. (in most cases)
If anything, I might look at the RCA wires here and make sure they are secure and you have a solid ground to both amps and speakers wires are snug too. Also, make sure the HU is grounded to bare metal in te dash, fire wall or floor pan.
How are the sub audio signals delivered to the amp now?
1. HU sub outs
2. Preout from the f340 amp
3. Other?
If amp is cool to the touch, thermal protects are OK. Power lamp is on, so REM can be ruled out as well as power feed. It's probably RCA signal or sub wire issues.
If this is a regular problem later, we may have to look at of other issues.
Swez
vtcommodore on 08/9/2007 01:27:39
The Sub audio signals are currently from the 340 preout. I'll run an rca from the HU asap.
I did check the RCA's at the time and they were fine.
I will check all the connections.
Gene
swez on 08/9/2007 10:27:20
You may want to invest in a low cost DMM. (Digital Multimeter) This is a good tool for diagnostics and testing electrical circuits and are cheap here in the US. (Under $20.00)
This is what to look for in basic features:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=2032058.2032235.2032305&parentPage=family
Swez
PS What sub(s) you using again?
vtcommodore on 08/9/2007 22:22:35
I'll make that investment this w/end... Though I'm not 100% sure how to take the required readings to setup properly.
I'm running a single JL12w3v2 4ohm sub from the Alpine MRP-M450. I have the Alpine MRV-F340 running the components and 6x9's.
swez on 08/10/2007 07:31:58
OK, good choice on the amp/sub pairing here. (Nice match)
Meters are easy to use and there are often instructions on how to get started on testing things. If your kit does not come with much details, we can walk you through the basics. If you have a make and model number, instructions can often be found on the Internet too.
Swez
I have however,, encountered a problem twice where after a track change the sub won't kick in again. Usually after about 10-15 minutes.
I have then stopped the car and checked the boot, the amp is still on though the sub is not working.
I've found that if I turn the ignition off and on again it all returns to normal.
I thought today that perhaps I had the settings to high on the sub amp. I lowered hem and made it 20 minutes without incident.
Any ideas what may be causing this?
GRIN
Gene
Replies (8)
trunkisloud on 08/8/2007 23:05:56
maybe overheating of the amp...maybe your sub is wired wrong....how do you have it wired?? you have the alpine amp correct?....if so you should have both coils of the sub going to the amp wired parallel to see 2 ohms.
vtcommodore on 08/8/2007 23:09:02
Yep, it's the m450
I'm sure it's wired in parallel, and when I checked the amp was cool.
Strange.
Could it be a problem with the remote wire? I have it wired into the remote of my mrv-f340.
trunkisloud on 08/8/2007 23:23:02
i had a similar problem once..couldnt figure it out..i tore everything apart and checked the wires....turns out the in-line fuse for the amp power was loose..the fuse block was a little old so i bent the tabs on it to make a tighter fit and that fixed it .....take a look at that first and if its good then try running a seperate remote for the sub amp.
swez on 08/9/2007 01:01:51
If the remote wire lost it's power, the amp would shut off. (in most cases)
If anything, I might look at the RCA wires here and make sure they are secure and you have a solid ground to both amps and speakers wires are snug too. Also, make sure the HU is grounded to bare metal in te dash, fire wall or floor pan.
How are the sub audio signals delivered to the amp now?
1. HU sub outs
2. Preout from the f340 amp
3. Other?
If amp is cool to the touch, thermal protects are OK. Power lamp is on, so REM can be ruled out as well as power feed. It's probably RCA signal or sub wire issues.
If this is a regular problem later, we may have to look at of other issues.
Swez
vtcommodore on 08/9/2007 01:27:39
The Sub audio signals are currently from the 340 preout. I'll run an rca from the HU asap.
I did check the RCA's at the time and they were fine.
I will check all the connections.
Gene
swez on 08/9/2007 10:27:20
You may want to invest in a low cost DMM. (Digital Multimeter) This is a good tool for diagnostics and testing electrical circuits and are cheap here in the US. (Under $20.00)
This is what to look for in basic features:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=2032058.2032235.2032305&parentPage=family
Swez
PS What sub(s) you using again?
vtcommodore on 08/9/2007 22:22:35
I'll make that investment this w/end... Though I'm not 100% sure how to take the required readings to setup properly.
I'm running a single JL12w3v2 4ohm sub from the Alpine MRP-M450. I have the Alpine MRV-F340 running the components and 6x9's.
swez on 08/10/2007 07:31:58
OK, good choice on the amp/sub pairing here. (Nice match)
Meters are easy to use and there are often instructions on how to get started on testing things. If your kit does not come with much details, we can walk you through the basics. If you have a make and model number, instructions can often be found on the Internet too.
Swez
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