will that help out my sound system because for some reason everytime i turn the lights on my car my H/U turns off when i turn it loud i need help once again
Replies (10)
Ender2 on 07/25/2007 07:21:00
Warning, warning!
This is an indication that your alternator is going out. Luckily, alternator's don't always go out all the way, at one time. They can go out in intervals, which is exactly what's happening right now. Stop by autozone and have them confirm that this is true; if it is. STOP using your radio at all until you can replace the alternator. Using the radio just places extra strain on the alternator which will kill it faster.
PS. This is what happened to me and I didn't know what it was. My HU would cut off around 80%, then 50... then I was going down the road and it just wouldn't stay on and the car just died.
Good luck, let me know how this turns out.
swez on 07/25/2007 07:54:57
It does sound like your present electrical system is not keeping up with all loads it is now having to contend with.
In todays vehicles, most ALTs are typically 75A's or higher and generate a solid 13.5 volts. However, if you have the original electrical system in this car, it could have a very small ALT package and only delivers 25-40A's. Once that value is reached, the ALT can not keep up and voltage will drop to a point where some electrical devices stop working.
FYI: A typical Aftermarket HU needs above 11.0 volts to remain operational. If it does not get enough power, it will shut off and act like your mentioned scenario.
Have your electrical system checked out to see if it can keep up with the new items that have been installed recently. If that checks out OK, we'll have to do some deeper digging.
Swez
snappy on 07/28/2007 18:13:22
ok so im pretty sure i need to go check out my alternator can i go to autozone for that or where can i can go to see whats wrong with it?
and also Ender2 i think we both had the same problem not to mention thanks for the help.
so should i stop working my whole soundsystem until i see whats wrong with my ALT?
snappy on 07/28/2007 18:15:37
also im guessing since my car is so old it might have a old worn out alternator not enough to power my amp and to 12" subs
swez on 07/28/2007 18:35:53
There's a pretty good chance that this is at the root of the problems mentioned. Cars of this vintage did not have all the complex electronics and features that demanded more power from a stock electrical system.
Yes, have your ALT & BAT checked out for free. AutoZone, NAPA and many other parts stores have portable equipment to check performance in the parking lot and do it for free. All you have t do is show up, ask for diagnosics and make note the findings.
If the present ALT cannot maintain voltage and adequate current with your headlights, heater blower on high and audio gear going, it will be known in 5 minutes of testing. If the reading drop below 11.0 volts at your BAT, the system is not keeping up with the loads and the battery is discharging to make up the shortfall in needed power.
That's enough to make some modern equipment shut down or react to low supply issues. (HU and amplifiers yes, but not low tech stuff like lights, blower motor and ignition systems)
Swez
snappy on 07/28/2007 19:07:56
ok thaks Swez so pretty much i would only have to upgrade my ALT can i still keep my old battery or would i have to replace that to?
SQLThump on 07/28/2007 20:46:03
Generally, you would replace your battery as well, as an alternator cannot charge a dead battery. Check your battery, and make sure it is in fit condition to work with a new alternator.
It would probably be a good call to replace it with an upgraded, gel cell battery as they carry a nice, high Cold Cranking Amp rating (CCA), and are much less suceptable to discharging completely. Plus, if they do discharge, their survivability is waay better than standard lead acid cell batteries.
I have had some low tech stuff go when my ALT failed, but it happened hours before the whole operation broke down.
swez on 07/28/2007 22:09:21
The battery only starts the engine. (Cranks the starter motor) Then, the ALT takes over and runs everything after the engine is started. The ALT charges the battery and provides power for the rest of the car's needs to a point. (This is peak voltage and current flow from the ALT)
Once the battery is fully charged, the ALT powers everything until max load on the ALT is reached. From there on, more power can be obtained, (barrowed) from the battery for a time. The larger the battery storage ability, (CCA rating #) the more run time we get from the battery reserves. In large audio systems, we often need more than one battery to take the sudden current surges the heavy bass hits require.
In your case, it is very likely that this car has a very small ALT, (50 Amperes max) and the starter battery is also modest. (~500 CCA's rated) This is why your audio system is starving for power. (Low ALT capacity and limited BAT reserves)
If the battery is more than 4-5 years old, it's pretty close to the end of its lifecycle. You can have that checked as well, while testing the ALT. If the specific gravity is low, one can charge the battery on a trickle charger for up to 24 hours and see if that helps. If not, the battery is on its way out and should be replaced soon too.
Hope that clarifies,
Swez
SQLThump on 07/28/2007 22:25:17
Well put as always Swez!
MrBrownstone on 08/2/2007 12:45:44
the only other question would be how the dash is wired. Did you keep the same old wiring configuration for the head unit?
Definitely sounds like a current problem--and alternators on the old cars weren't designed for a great deal of accessories.
Have you only replaced the HU and it's doing this? Did you also install everything else yet?
Replies (10)
Ender2 on 07/25/2007 07:21:00
Warning, warning!
This is an indication that your alternator is going out. Luckily, alternator's don't always go out all the way, at one time. They can go out in intervals, which is exactly what's happening right now. Stop by autozone and have them confirm that this is true; if it is. STOP using your radio at all until you can replace the alternator. Using the radio just places extra strain on the alternator which will kill it faster.
PS. This is what happened to me and I didn't know what it was. My HU would cut off around 80%, then 50... then I was going down the road and it just wouldn't stay on and the car just died.
Good luck, let me know how this turns out.
swez on 07/25/2007 07:54:57
It does sound like your present electrical system is not keeping up with all loads it is now having to contend with.
In todays vehicles, most ALTs are typically 75A's or higher and generate a solid 13.5 volts. However, if you have the original electrical system in this car, it could have a very small ALT package and only delivers 25-40A's. Once that value is reached, the ALT can not keep up and voltage will drop to a point where some electrical devices stop working.
FYI: A typical Aftermarket HU needs above 11.0 volts to remain operational. If it does not get enough power, it will shut off and act like your mentioned scenario.
Have your electrical system checked out to see if it can keep up with the new items that have been installed recently. If that checks out OK, we'll have to do some deeper digging.
Swez
snappy on 07/28/2007 18:13:22
ok so im pretty sure i need to go check out my alternator can i go to autozone for that or where can i can go to see whats wrong with it?
and also Ender2 i think we both had the same problem not to mention thanks for the help.
so should i stop working my whole soundsystem until i see whats wrong with my ALT?
snappy on 07/28/2007 18:15:37
also im guessing since my car is so old it might have a old worn out alternator not enough to power my amp and to 12" subs
swez on 07/28/2007 18:35:53
There's a pretty good chance that this is at the root of the problems mentioned. Cars of this vintage did not have all the complex electronics and features that demanded more power from a stock electrical system.
Yes, have your ALT & BAT checked out for free. AutoZone, NAPA and many other parts stores have portable equipment to check performance in the parking lot and do it for free. All you have t do is show up, ask for diagnosics and make note the findings.
If the present ALT cannot maintain voltage and adequate current with your headlights, heater blower on high and audio gear going, it will be known in 5 minutes of testing. If the reading drop below 11.0 volts at your BAT, the system is not keeping up with the loads and the battery is discharging to make up the shortfall in needed power.
That's enough to make some modern equipment shut down or react to low supply issues. (HU and amplifiers yes, but not low tech stuff like lights, blower motor and ignition systems)
Swez
snappy on 07/28/2007 19:07:56
ok thaks Swez so pretty much i would only have to upgrade my ALT can i still keep my old battery or would i have to replace that to?
SQLThump on 07/28/2007 20:46:03
Generally, you would replace your battery as well, as an alternator cannot charge a dead battery. Check your battery, and make sure it is in fit condition to work with a new alternator.
It would probably be a good call to replace it with an upgraded, gel cell battery as they carry a nice, high Cold Cranking Amp rating (CCA), and are much less suceptable to discharging completely. Plus, if they do discharge, their survivability is waay better than standard lead acid cell batteries.
I have had some low tech stuff go when my ALT failed, but it happened hours before the whole operation broke down.
swez on 07/28/2007 22:09:21
The battery only starts the engine. (Cranks the starter motor) Then, the ALT takes over and runs everything after the engine is started. The ALT charges the battery and provides power for the rest of the car's needs to a point. (This is peak voltage and current flow from the ALT)
Once the battery is fully charged, the ALT powers everything until max load on the ALT is reached. From there on, more power can be obtained, (barrowed) from the battery for a time. The larger the battery storage ability, (CCA rating #) the more run time we get from the battery reserves. In large audio systems, we often need more than one battery to take the sudden current surges the heavy bass hits require.
In your case, it is very likely that this car has a very small ALT, (50 Amperes max) and the starter battery is also modest. (~500 CCA's rated) This is why your audio system is starving for power. (Low ALT capacity and limited BAT reserves)
If the battery is more than 4-5 years old, it's pretty close to the end of its lifecycle. You can have that checked as well, while testing the ALT. If the specific gravity is low, one can charge the battery on a trickle charger for up to 24 hours and see if that helps. If not, the battery is on its way out and should be replaced soon too.
Hope that clarifies,
Swez
SQLThump on 07/28/2007 22:25:17
Well put as always Swez!
MrBrownstone on 08/2/2007 12:45:44
the only other question would be how the dash is wired. Did you keep the same old wiring configuration for the head unit?
Definitely sounds like a current problem--and alternators on the old cars weren't designed for a great deal of accessories.
Have you only replaced the HU and it's doing this? Did you also install everything else yet?
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