I bought the car used and the old owner ripped out the sub. I have a JL Audio 250/1 Amp (with supposed signal sensing ability) and 2 10" Alpine Type S subs. I have had this same setup installed in 2 other vehicles, however with an aftermarket head unit. I have installed the amp with the exception of the remote wire (because of the signal sensing ability). I have also bought a line output converter and tried to install it. It looks like the old owner also tried this by splicing wires from both of the rear speakers. I have tried connecting the LOC to these wires and also to the existing factory sub wires (which do work but dont have enough power to power my subs). The amp is getting power when I jumper the remote connection to the 12+ connection, but still no sound. I have a couple of theories, but I dont want to start cutting wires that work fine if I dont have to. 1.The LOC is faulty. 2. The signal sensing input on the amp is fried (even though the rest works fine). 3. The signal is too low coming from the spliced wires and doesnt recognize the low pass signal from the factory sub wires, so I should install the LOC before the wires hit the speakers. If anyone with experience could help me, that would be great. Thanks.
Replies (6)
trunkisloud on 07/23/2007 23:47:41
well i have some experience with the 500/1 ...different power ..same features...and 2 times in the past ive had this problem and had to take it in to get repairs....not sayin this is the case but dont rule it out...these are a strong line of amplifiers but they do have some issues especially if connected incorrectly in reference to ohms....
swez on 07/24/2007 01:35:38
Here's the operations manual for your JL 250/1 amp:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/13025.pdf
It does have a switch to enable/disable the signal sensing turn on feature. It needs to be enabled to work properly w/o a remote line. This circuit is designed to operate in Auto-Sense mode only when the input selector switch is set to HIGH and fed from speaker outputs off the HU. (It's in the manual too... print a copy for references)
As far as low output power, this amp has a switch that can take High, (Speaker Level) signals or Low, (RCA level) input signals too. The easiest way to use this amp, would be to skip the LOC and run parallel wires off the rear speakers with RCA jacks and set the switch to High signal input mode. (This amp has its own LOC circuit built in)
Once you have the amp powered up and working, then it's just a matter of amp gain adjustments to get your subs up to power. This amp can handle 1.5 - 4.0 ohms speaker loads very well. The manual tells all your settings and meter reading voltage targets, based on the sub ohmic load used.
Do you know the ohmic load your subs are wired for in this install?
Swez
bergie21 on 07/25/2007 22:41:00
I understand what you want me to do and it makes sense, however, I was going to cut apart a rca cable and connect them to the parallel wires coming off of the rear speakers. I realized there is only 1 wire connected to each rca connection and 2 wires coming out of each speaker. How am I supposed to do this? By the way, the ohmic load is 4ohms. The alpine subs are SWS-1040D.
swez on 07/25/2007 23:27:58
All RCA connectors are 2 wires. The center pin is the + terminal and the claw is ground. You do not need coaxial type cables here. A standard 2 wire speaker cable is fine for such a short length. (Under 6 feet)
Also, for best noise rejection, use #16 gage wires and spiral wrap them from the rear speakers to the amp inputs.
Yes, you can use regular coaxial type RCA cables if you have some on hand. There are 2 conductors there too. One is a center sleeved wire, (+) and the other is a wrapped conductor shield for the ground return. If the wires are very small and very fragile, better to make your own from scratch.
These will do nicely: They all require soldering.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-1100
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=090-255
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-050
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-055
Swez
bergie21 on 08/6/2007 21:52:39
Thanks. That worked. I connected to the rear speaker wires and added rca plugs on the other end. The only thing that didnt make sense was that the amp needs to be on Low Input to work. Strange, but I am happy.
swez on 08/7/2007 06:13:12
Cool, glad it works regardless of the input selector settings.
Swez
Replies (6)
trunkisloud on 07/23/2007 23:47:41
well i have some experience with the 500/1 ...different power ..same features...and 2 times in the past ive had this problem and had to take it in to get repairs....not sayin this is the case but dont rule it out...these are a strong line of amplifiers but they do have some issues especially if connected incorrectly in reference to ohms....
swez on 07/24/2007 01:35:38
Here's the operations manual for your JL 250/1 amp:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/13025.pdf
It does have a switch to enable/disable the signal sensing turn on feature. It needs to be enabled to work properly w/o a remote line. This circuit is designed to operate in Auto-Sense mode only when the input selector switch is set to HIGH and fed from speaker outputs off the HU. (It's in the manual too... print a copy for references)
As far as low output power, this amp has a switch that can take High, (Speaker Level) signals or Low, (RCA level) input signals too. The easiest way to use this amp, would be to skip the LOC and run parallel wires off the rear speakers with RCA jacks and set the switch to High signal input mode. (This amp has its own LOC circuit built in)
Once you have the amp powered up and working, then it's just a matter of amp gain adjustments to get your subs up to power. This amp can handle 1.5 - 4.0 ohms speaker loads very well. The manual tells all your settings and meter reading voltage targets, based on the sub ohmic load used.
Do you know the ohmic load your subs are wired for in this install?
Swez
bergie21 on 07/25/2007 22:41:00
I understand what you want me to do and it makes sense, however, I was going to cut apart a rca cable and connect them to the parallel wires coming off of the rear speakers. I realized there is only 1 wire connected to each rca connection and 2 wires coming out of each speaker. How am I supposed to do this? By the way, the ohmic load is 4ohms. The alpine subs are SWS-1040D.
swez on 07/25/2007 23:27:58
All RCA connectors are 2 wires. The center pin is the + terminal and the claw is ground. You do not need coaxial type cables here. A standard 2 wire speaker cable is fine for such a short length. (Under 6 feet)
Also, for best noise rejection, use #16 gage wires and spiral wrap them from the rear speakers to the amp inputs.
Yes, you can use regular coaxial type RCA cables if you have some on hand. There are 2 conductors there too. One is a center sleeved wire, (+) and the other is a wrapped conductor shield for the ground return. If the wires are very small and very fragile, better to make your own from scratch.
These will do nicely: They all require soldering.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-1100
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=090-255
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-050
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=091-055
Swez
bergie21 on 08/6/2007 21:52:39
Thanks. That worked. I connected to the rear speaker wires and added rca plugs on the other end. The only thing that didnt make sense was that the amp needs to be on Low Input to work. Strange, but I am happy.
swez on 08/7/2007 06:13:12
Cool, glad it works regardless of the input selector settings.
Swez
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